Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[HrKlev]

Hello everyone from Russia. I apologize for my crooked English, this is a translator. Became the proud owner of the votol em150sp kit and qs138 90h 4000w. I connected everything, removed the parking restriction, connected the throttle stick. Then I connected my laptop to the controller and adjusted the throttle thresholds which I measured in advance with a multimeter. The problem is as follows, when the engine reaches 4800 rpm, it itself sharply raises the rpm to about 6000 and does not reset them even when the throttle stick is released, only turning off the ignition helps. Can anyone come across such a problem and be able to suggest?

I had the same problems and used a lot if time trying to figure out what was going on. Solution? Turned off "low beake" on page 3. I have no idea why, but it is repeatable on my vehicle. Regen on low break signal works without the box ticked, so I have no idea what this box does. Except make my motor go haywire at anything above 4500rpm...

 

[Carbon2011]

Hello everyone from Russia. I apologize for my crooked English, this is a translator. Became the proud owner of the votol em150sp kit and qs138 90h 4000w. I connected everything, removed the parking restriction, connected the throttle stick. Then I connected my laptop to the controller and adjusted the throttle thresholds which I measured in advance with a multimeter. The problem is as follows, when the engine reaches 4800 rpm, it itself sharply raises the rpm to about 6000 and does not reset them even when the throttle stick is released, only turning off the ignition helps. Can anyone come across such a problem and be able to suggest?

I had the same problems and used a lot if time trying to figure out what was going on. Solution? Turned off "low beake" on page 3. I have no idea why, but it is repeatable on my vehicle. Regen on low break signal works without the box ticked, so I have no idea what this box does. Except make my motor go haywire at anything above 4500rpm...

Tried this option but it didn't help

 

[Carbon2011]

Maybe someone has such a set configured. Please share the configuration file. Qs138 90h 4000w and Votol em150sp

 

[BareKuda]

Maybe someone has such a set configured. Please share the configuration file. Qs138 90h 4000w and Votol em150sp

Share the config file you are using.

 

[Carbon2011]

Maybe someone has such a set configured. Please share the configuration file. Qs138 90h 4000w and Votol em150sp

Share the config file you are using.

 

[Paulflieg]

 

[BareKuda]

Maybe someone has such a set configured. Please share the configuration file. Qs138 90h 4000w and Votol em150sp

This thread has a configuration file that looks very compatible with your motor. Make sure you made a backup file of your current configuration.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=112417

 

[Carbon2011]

Maybe someone has such a set configured. Please share the configuration file. Qs138 90h 4000w and Votol em150sp

This thread has a configuration file that looks very compatible with your motor. Make sure you made a backup file of your current configuration.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=112417

Thanks, I'll try

 

[deida789]

hello guys,

i have a small problem,

when i twist the throttle a 1/3 or even half (let say the speed will be 40kmh) then when i twist the throttle more or even to the max it goes high speed but slowly to reach high speed.

usualy it goes super fast instantly when i twist but many times when i hold the twist for 30s on a same position and twist again more it doesn't keep going but slowly.


if i brake completely and twist again then no problem.


i dont know if it's a bug , it happen sometimes only, but it's annoying if i have to accelerate quickly and it's slow.

 

[BareKuda]

hello guys,

i have a small problem,

when i twist the throttle a 1/3 or even half (let say the speed will be 40kmh) then when i twist the throttle more or even to the max it goes high speed but slowly to reach high speed.

usualy it goes super fast instantly when i twist but many times when i hold the twist for 30s on a same position and twist again more it doesn't keep going but slowly.


if i brake completely and twist again then no problem.


i dont know if it's a bug , it happen sometimes only, but it's annoying if i have to accelerate quickly and it's slow.

Post your current configuration file, or take pictures of every page of the program when its connected to your controller. And your motor brand and model or its specifications.

 

[deida789]

hello guys,

i have a small problem,

when i twist the throttle a 1/3 or even half (let say the speed will be 40kmh) then when i twist the throttle more or even to the max it goes high speed but slowly to reach high speed.

usualy it goes super fast instantly when i twist but many times when i hold the twist for 30s on a same position and twist again more it doesn't keep going but slowly.


if i brake completely and twist again then no problem.


i dont know if it's a bug , it happen sometimes only, but it's annoying if i have to accelerate quickly and it's slow.

Post your current configuration file, or take pictures of every page of the program when its connected to your controller. And your motor brand and model or its specifications.

thanks barekuda, i will upload it [emoji106]


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[deida789]

hello guys,

i have a small problem,

when i twist the throttle a 1/3 or even half (let say the speed will be 40kmh) then when i twist the throttle more or even to the max it goes high speed but slowly to reach high speed.

usualy it goes super fast instantly when i twist but many times when i hold the twist for 30s on a same position and twist again more it doesn't keep going but slowly.


if i brake completely and twist again then no problem.


i dont know if it's a bug , it happen sometimes only, but it's annoying if i have to accelerate quickly and it's slow.

Post your current configuration file, or take pictures of every page of the program when its connected to your controller. And your motor brand and model or its specifications.

Here it is, i set the controller to get as max torque as possible, but not sure if its really the max, the motor is a Qs motor 12 inch rated for 2000w, about the "rate of decline" i dont know if i should put 0.

Anyway thank you BareKuda for your helpView attachment Config bike.zip

 

[BareKuda]

Here it is, i set the controller to get as max torque as possible, but not sure if its really the max, the motor is a Qs rated for 2000w, about the "rate if decline" i dont know if i should put 0.

If you set “rate of decline” to 0, it cannot decelerate. It will just hang at the highest speed you went to because deceleration is 0.

I cant find your motor but if you are not sure you have 24 pole pairs, you can use a simple method here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=113988&p=1687292&hilit=Pole+pairs#p1687292

Pole pairs are used to tell the controller the real RPM of the motor. It then uses that RPM for the display page as well as several others settings. If this is wrong, your adjustments will be wrong and it could be unstable.

110A on 72v system is 8000 watts. You must have a very powerful battery to handle that. If that is artificially too high then you will sag to soft undervoltage very fast and the controller will be modulating based on starvation. And your motor can only handle 8000w for limited time.

The only thing that seems like it will cause a throttle problem is your Three-Speed settings. On my controller the first box is RPM and the second box is max power used to reach that RPM.

Set at zero it wont work good. I would put 25% there in Low instead of Zero, and that will allow 2000W to be used to get you to 55% speed (Motor RPM). This is why your bus bar current needs to be set right first, because the power is based on that.

Mid looks fine at 50% because thats 4000 Watts which is more than enough.

You can play with high. Sometimes it needs to be 100% to get max bus bar current. Sometimes it needs to be 0-20%, representing what percentages over bus bar current it will allow to get you up to max speed, since you need more power to get up to speed than steady state cruise at that speed.

So. I would suggest:
55% 25%
75% 50%
100% 100% (and if this doesn’t work try 20%)

If that solves your throttle problem, from there you can tune the speed and power of each gear.

I have my 3 speed switch set for low and high. Some people connect the high to sport port, so it will behave differently.

You already have soft start off so that gives the best response for a direct drive hub motor. Soft start on mine seems to put a rubber band in the acceleration.

Max torque is going to come from max phase current. Changing your three-speed second box to higher value will make more current available. Just don’t overdo it because your motor can handle 2000W, and 3000-4000 watts if moving along at 40 MPH to cool it, but it is not going to like a 5 mph climb at 8000 watts for 10 minutes.

 

[deida789]

If you set “rate of decline” to 0, it cannot decelerate. It will just hang at the highest speed you went to because deceleration is 0.

-Thank you so much that is a very clear explanation !-

I cant find your motor but if you are not sure you have 24 pole pairs, you can use a simple method here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=113988&p=1687292&hilit=Pole+pairs#p1687292

-The motors is 24 pair -60angle thats the information i got from qs motor-

Pole pairs are used to tell the controller the real RPM of the motor. It then uses that RPM for the display page as well as several others settings. If this is wrong, your adjustments will be wrong and it could be unstable.

110A on 72v system is 8000 watts. You must have a very powerful battery to handle that. If that is artificially too high then you will sag to soft undervoltage very fast and the controller will be modulating based on starvation. And your motor can only handle 8000w for limited time.

-Well the battery i have is 72v 54ah and 150a continuous discharge ( i'm aware about talking on continuous and max discharge as i'm making battery for my self) , still thanks for telling me.-


The only thing that seems like it will cause a throttle problem is your Three-Speed settings. On my controller the first box is RPM and the second box is max power used to reach that RPM.

Set at zero it wont work good. I would put 25% there in Low instead of Zero, and that will allow 2000W to be used to get you to 55% speed (Motor RPM). This is why your bus bar current needs to be set right first, because the power is based on that.


-Well i did that because i read 2 different versions of what these 3 left and 3 box right are for so i tried that, so if i want the controller to send 50% of the power i should write 50% on the right box of 55% ?
Sorry to ask i just wanna want to clearly understand the use of the 3 left/right box because it's weird the version i have read.-

Mid looks fine at 50% because thats 4000 Watts which is more than enough.

You can play with high. Sometimes it needs to be 100% to get max bus bar current. Sometimes it needs to be 0-20%, representing what percentages over bus bar current it will allow to get you up to max speed, since you need more power to get up to speed than steady state cruise at that speed.

So. I would suggest:
55% 25%
75% 50%
100% 100% (and if this doesn’t work try 20%)

If that solves your throttle problem, from there you can tune the speed and power of each gear.

I have my 3 speed switch set for low and high. Some people connect the high to sport port, so it will behave differently.

You already have soft start off so that gives the best response for a direct drive hub motor. Soft start on mine seems to put a rubber band in the acceleration.

Max torque is going to come from max phase current. Changing your three-speed second box to higher value will make more current available. Just don’t overdo it because your motor can handle 2000W, and 3000-4000 watts if moving along at 40 MPH to cool it, but it is not going to like a 5 mph climb at 8000 watts for 10 minutes.


I see , well i usually use the max speed only for less than 2 minute, usually its more the high torque i'm using.

And to finish, thanks from the bottom of my heart, because it's with people like you and the other members that newbie like me can have a better understanding of these controller


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[BareKuda]

I see , well i usually use the max speed only for less than 2 minute, usually its more the high torque i'm using.

If your controller behaves like mine, where the first box of the three gear setting is RPM and second box is setting current limit, you can tailor it to meet your riding style.

Lets say, for example, you need to safely climb a curb but don't want to suddenly be going 25 mph, you can set:
10% 100% (slow speed max torque)
70% 50% (normal cruise)
100% 100% (your throttle can give everything your controller and motor can give).

Another guy was asking how to set it so his wife can ride it without wheelies, but able to get around at a good speed. His settings would be:

50% 10%-20%
70% 40%-50%
100% 100% (for when he rides it.)

Another option, the one ill set it for after testing, is 3 settings that give the economy and range needed, which will be something like this for my 500w motor:
Busbar 20A (1c for my 60v20ah battery)

Low: 55% (25 km/h) 25% (which is 5a or 0.25c, 600 watts)
Med: 70% (35 km/h) 50% (which is 10a, 0.5c, 1200 watts)
High: 100% (45 km/h) 100% (20a, 1c, 2400 watts)


You can see in the attachment how this matches my battery characteristics and give 2h, 1h, or 30m.

 

[deida789]

I see , well i usually use the max speed only for less than 2 minute, usually its more the high torque i'm using.

If your controller behaves like mine, where the first box of the three gear setting is RPM and second box is setting current limit, you can tailor it to meet your riding style.

Lets say, for example, you need to safely climb a curb but don't want to suddenly be going 25 mph, you can set:
10% 100% (slow speed max torque)
70% 50% (normal cruise)
100% 100% (your throttle can give everything your controller and motor can give).

Another guy was asking how to set it so his wife can ride it without wheelies, but able to get around at a good speed. His settings would be:

50% 10%-20%
70% 40%-50%
100% 100% (for when he rides it.)

Another option, the one ill set it for after testing, is 3 settings that give the economy and range needed, which will be something like this for my 500w motor:
Busbar 20A (1c for my 60v20ah battery)

Low: 55% (25 km/h) 25% (which is 5a or 0.25c, 600 watts)
Med: 70% (35 km/h) 50% (which is 10a, 0.5c, 1200 watts)
High: 100% (45 km/h) 100% (20a, 1c, 2400 watts)


You can see in the attachment how this matches my battery characteristics and give 2h, 1h, or 30m.

Thank you mate , i understand better now, you know the funny part about it, i got the 3 right box set from qs directly and HDC was set for 650, left 3 box was me i changed them, i dont know if each votol react differently from models ( as for me its the EM 100s).

I will try your suggestion to see if it react like that,
But anyway i'm really glad because i got a better understanding.

 

[BareKuda]

Thank you mate , i understand better now, you know the funny part about it, i got the 3 right box set from qs directly and HDC was set for 650, left 3 box was me i changed them, i dont know if each votol react differently from models ( as for me its the EM 100s).

I will try your suggestion to see if it react like that,
But anyway i'm really glad because i got a better understanding.

I have my HDC set at 700 and flux weakening all set to zero because my 500W motor on this lead sled doesn’t have enough overhead for flux weakening. The base speed of my motor is about 45 km/hr.

Your 2000W motor might have the overhead needed to get from 650 to 1200. But it will lose torque above its base speed. If you find your batteries are draining in 10 minutes at 1200 RPM its probably too much for your setup.

The beauty of this controller is almost all is adjustable. You can wire it up in many ways too. If you have 3 speed switch wired to Low and high, but have an extra few switches or buttons on your handlebar, you can add sport mode in addition to high, and cruise control.

I also just set my laptop on my floorboard so i can see the display and make adjustments. Running loaded is a lot done than unloaded. Thats where the second box really shows because 10% can accelerate easy on the center stand but riding around 10% wont do much acceleration.

 

[deida789]

Your 2000W motor might have the overhead needed to get from 650 to 1200. But it will lose torque above its base speed. If you find your batteries are draining in 10 minutes at 1200 RPM its probably too much for your setup.

The beauty of this controller is almost all is adjustable. You can wire it up in many ways too. If you have 3 speed switch wired to Low and high, but have an extra few switches or buttons on your handlebar, you can add sport mode in addition to high, and cruise control.

I also just set my laptop on my floorboard so i can see the display and make adjustments. Running loaded is a lot done than unloaded. Thats where the second box really shows because 10% can accelerate easy on the center stand but riding around 10% wont do much acceleration.

Yes i agree with that, alot to configure,

well with the configuration as now and after a ride of 1H30 the motor is hot but not that much ( that's how i guess it handle that power, basically i can drive for 70km with toon of high acceleration in the end i will use 10volt to 12v in total. As for flux , since i don't really understand it's purpose( what it does) i didn't change that.


Sadly i had the Reverse mode with my previous controller but when i switched to votol i cannot connect it.

 

[BareKuda]

As for flux , since i don't really understand it's purpose( what it does) i didn't change that.

Sadly i had the Reverse mode with my previous controller but when i switched to votol i cannot connect it.

If its running smooth I would leave flux weakens as it is, your current values seem reasonable.

According to the configuration, your ports are set to accept a reverse signal. Your original reverse wire should go to the Brown/White wire in the same connector as your 3 speed switch Low and High wire goes.

Just make sure your reverse button/switch connects the brown/white wire to the negative wire when you want to go in reverse. I have a scooter so i’m not using reverse. So i cant tell you what prerequisites there are such as must be stopped or holding the brake or something.

If you want to test it before doing a lot of wiring, just put a jumper from brown/white over to the black wire of the same connector. And it should go in reverse,

You currently have 20% as max reverse speed which if has more than 2 wheels is probably ok. If 2 wheels you might not want to go 10 mph backwards. Lol

Once you verify reverse works, its just a matter if hooking up your original switch to do the same as the jumper when you want reverse.

 

[BareKuda]

Sadly i had the Reverse mode with my previous controller but when i switched to votol i cannot connect it.

I finally got my new batteries and was able to do some testing. One of the problem is there are several wiring diagrams for various years.

My EM-30S is new but uses the 2018 wiring:


The 2020 diagram shows the old reverse empty and moved up to where parking was:


Your port setting for reverse (PC15) is actually for the brown wire which is in a 2-pin connector, normally used for park, side stand safety interlock etc. But many of the ports can be used for any ON/OFF function. But you must make sure it’s designed to be pulled to ground and not a signal for your display or something.

Interestingly, your PA0 has some sort of thermistor set and i don't know if its right. PA0 is one of the normal places to put the reverse function.

Find one of these wires with green check not connected to anything, connect your reverse to it and set the associated port for reverse:


Right now your PC15 is set fir reverse, thats the brown wire. You can connect your reverse to that and it will go in reverse.

If you have your reverse connected to either the green/white or brown/white wire, change PC15 to “no function” and change the port association with the wire color to “reverse set”.

I tested all 3 and they all work. Will attach a link to a video making the brown wire work for reverse:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/zw6knDmkefc[/youtube]

 

[deida789]

Sadly i had the Reverse mode with my previous controller but when i switched to votol i cannot connect it.

I finally got my new batteries and was able to do some testing. One of the problem is there are several wiring diagrams for various years.

My EM-30S is new but uses the 2018 wiring:
View attachment 2

The 2020 diagram shows the old reverse empty and moved up to where parking was:
View attachment 1

Your port setting for reverse (PC15) is actually for the brown wire which is in a 2-pin connector, normally used for park, side stand safety interlock etc. But many of the ports can be used for any ON/OFF function. But you must make sure it’s designed to be pulled to ground and not a signal for your display or something.

Interestingly, your PA0 has some sort of thermistor set and i don't know if its right. PA0 is one of the normal places to put the reverse function.

Find one of these wires with green check not connected to anything, connect your reverse to it and set the associated port for reverse:


Right now your PC15 is set fir reverse, thats the brown wire. You can connect your reverse to that and it will go in reverse.

If you have your reverse connected to either the green/white or brown/white wire, change PC15 to “no function” and change the port association with the wire color to “reverse set”.

I tested all 3 and they all work. Will attach a link to a video making the brown wire work for reverse:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/zw6knDmkefc[/youtube]

hi mate , thanks a lot it really help ! exactly each votol seems to have wire different like mine, its 2 pin connector , grey/black for the reverse but it also have a black wire (negative),

the cable of my reverse button( push and hold to make it work) have only one wire to connect to the grey/black, i asked judy from qs motors and she say i should try to connect the black to the brown (p gear).

this is my actual wiring so i dont know if i should try the negative with brown/white i'm a little lost:

i'm going to try after i got some parts coming to change as this bike is a little annoying to open

Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[BareKuda]

.. mine, its 2 pin connector , grey/black for the reverse but it also have a black wire (negative),
the cable of my reverse button( push and hold to make it work) have only one wire to connect to the grey/black, i asked judy from qs motors and she say i should try to connect the black to the brown (p gear).

Accordingly the the wiring diagram you need to connect your one wire from your reverse button to the grey/white wire, and the other wire of that button need to go to negative somewhere. Any of small black wires should do. Then your reverse is only active while holding the button and in settings should be set as low as possible, maybe 5%, until you can road test it. I assume its only if you nose into a decline spot and need motor assist to back out. So set that no faster than you can walk backwards.

As long as you wire everything up according to that drawing, all your port settings are easy EXCEPT park and one-key repair. Since there is a Park with lame home and since i see lame home as default for PC15 sometimes, these are the port settings that match up with that wiring diagram:


I dont know what PARK does, but seems like it engages motor lock or something. Then you need a way to unpark.

If this was working before with a votol controller, do you still have that configuration file? Or was the other controller YYK or something?

PS.

This is turning into a hobby so i bought a set of connectors, pins and crimpling tool and wire strippers. Glad i did because i used them a lot already making the votol compatible with my hall sensors connector and making my old controller compatible with changes I made to the scooter harness. Now i can swap them out fast if needed.

 

[deida789]

.. mine, its 2 pin connector , grey/black for the reverse but it also have a black wire (negative),
the cable of my reverse button( push and hold to make it work) have only one wire to connect to the grey/black, i asked judy from qs motors and she say i should try to connect the black to the brown (p gear).

Accordingly the the wiring diagram you need to connect your one wire from your reverse button to the grey/white wire, and the other wire of that button need to go to negative somewhere. Any of small black wires should do. Then your reverse is only active while holding the button and in settings should be set as low as possible, maybe 5%, until you can road test it. I assume its only if you nose into a decline spot and need motor assist to back out. So set that no faster than you can walk backwards.

As long as you wire everything up according to that drawing, all your port settings are easy EXCEPT park and one-key repair. Since there is a Park with lame home and since i see lame home as default for PC15 sometimes, these are the port settings that match up with that wiring diagram:
View attachment 1

I dont know what PARK does, but seems like it engages motor lock or something. Then you need a way to unpark.

If this was working before with a votol controller, do you still have that configuration file? Or was the other controller YYK or something?

PS.

This is turning into a hobby so i bought a set of connectors, pins and crimpling tool and wire strippers. Glad i did because i used them a lot already making the votol compatible with my hall sensors connector and making my old controller compatible with changes I made to the scooter harness. Now i can swap them out fast if needed.

i will try you way, anyway i dont think i can damage it , as for the 20% i will put it to 5% as you say [emoji106]

The P i read somewhere that is same as car, might be usefull for some people.


i just use the reverse to park on my alley as it's small, but its not really that important

i wish i could try right now, and yes haha it same for me, i started to like this controller so i also took alot of pin connector to try in the future, and the votol bluetooth adapter, it seems we can use the software on our phone too ( that can be so much easy than carrying a laptop).

Ps : it was a chinese basic controller i dont have the name but i have a picture, anyway reverse for me will be as bonus, as the most important was fixed

 

[BareKuda]

i will try you way, anyway i dont think i can damage it , as for the 20% i will put it to 5% as you say [emoji106]

The P i read somewhere that is same as car, might be usefull for some people.

i started to like this controller so i also took alot of pin connector to try in the future, and the votol bluetooth adapter, it seems we can use the software on our phone too ( that can be so much easy than carrying a laptop).

Ps : it was a chinese basic controller i dont have the name but i have a picture, anyway reverse for me will be as bonus, as the most important was fixed

It looks like a clone of the votol but maybe cant use the votol software.

Ive seen a Bluetooth adapter made but so far i haven't seen any moble app for votol, but if you have a small windows tablet that can work.

Reverse will be super easy for you. If you don’t want park or one-key repair those can easily be set for cruise control and some other function. Cruise control has two choices, momentary button or button/switch which holds it.

I think your display should support YXT which is why i suggest trying to change from Hall Simulation to single wire communication. It will make many hidden features if your display work. On mine i get speed 1-2-3, eABS icon when i apply the brakes, and Motor failure Icon when my hall wire is disconnected.

Most likely it has a calibration adjustment on the back of the display board. I was abke to get mine within +/-1 km/h of GPS speed.

 

[deida789]

i will try you way, anyway i dont think i can damage it , as for the 20% i will put it to 5% as you say [emoji106]

The P i read somewhere that is same as car, might be usefull for some people.

i started to like this controller so i also took alot of pin connector to try in the future, and the votol bluetooth adapter, it seems we can use the software on our phone too ( that can be so much easy than carrying a laptop).

Ps : it was a chinese basic controller i dont have the name but i have a picture, anyway reverse for me will be as bonus, as the most important was fixed

It looks like a clone of the votol but maybe cant use the votol software.

Ive seen a Bluetooth adapter made but so far i haven't seen any moble app for votol, but if you have a small windows tablet that can work.

Reverse will be super easy for you. If you don’t want park or one-key repair those can easily be set for cruise control and some other function. Cruise control has two choices, momentary button or button/switch which holds it.

I think your display should support YXT which is why i suggest trying to change from Hall Simulation to single wire communication. It will make many hidden features if your display work. On mine i get speed 1-2-3, eABS icon when i apply the brakes, and Motor failure Icon when my hall wire is disconnected.

Most likely it has a calibration adjustment on the back of the display board. I was abke to get mine within +/-1 km/h of GPS speed.

yes it is a clone and very cheap , as for the bluetooth module i should get it next week , it is working for both iphone and android but the application is only in chinese, i can translate it so i will try, this should be very usefull, if it really work good, i will make a translation to share.

for the display well mine doesn't show the speed anymore after i installed the votol , i connected the single line, but on setting the one-line show 0kph and hall speedometer show 5kph no matter what.
so im just using my phone to see the speed, i was just thinking to buy the display from qs motor as it seems to be just plug n play.