Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Well, do I feel stupid now :lol: :oops: Ticking off the CAN option in the new software was all I needed. Motor spins and BMS is working bow. Just need to figure out hkw to wire the display now, and I can rip the ATV in pieces and start the conversion, and enjoy the power limitations you have been talking about ... It'll be way faster than the 50cc motor anyway :lol:
 
Miguel Angel said:
Hi, what is the difference between the CAN controller and normal controller.
CAN is just CAN (-; If you're asking about [official] S/P/SP differences, you can find it somewhere in this thread. In reality... who knows.

Bartosh said:
Just out of curiosity, what's your sw / hw version?
Still interested in this piece of info, HrKlev.

BTW this comes from votol.net website:
votol fw screen.jpg

FW, low speed, big torque...?

I also repeated my question to votol, asking for some answers / firmware / comment / anything.
 
So I think I have an idea of what the most if the settings does now, except from "Start setting adjustment (for tricycle gear box only)". The manual doesnt say much about it either. It is four settings, but what do they do? What is a tricycle gear box? What do you run if you dont have a tricycle gear box?
 
SilverLine, nothing new so far... I have no idea whether they read my emails. No one responded, but they may still have holidays.

HrKlev, 1,2 - didn't notice any difference, 3,4 - you can change accel/decel [rise/fall] speed here. Try with 10/10, then 255/255 - you'll see the difference after twisting the throttle.
 
I've been playing with some different settings during the weekend, I also rised the batt current to 250A, but nothing new to report. I can tell it just gets weaker after like 20-30 short wheelies and jerking around for couple minutes (lots of WOTs). The result was:
20200203_002141.jpg

I can't get over it (-; This is far from overheating and does not make any sense to me. BTW my nuc controller is just about to land, so I will have an opportunity to compare the two, especially in terms of "power delivery" from 0 rpm, WOT capabilities and such, as I mostly do some woods/uphill/logs/trial type of riding, so it really matters to me. Will let you know.
 
Interesting. I emptied my whole 30Ah battery in 10minutes at 300A max without getting the same.A70C8837-D20A-4D6C-9628-DF3E77AEE4AC.jpeg
Hw version is 0.07, maybe they input protection in later versions? SW is old “EM200 debug..” so SW version cannot be compared.

I’ve hooked up sport button and set to 350A bus bar current yesterday, today i’ll try it.
 
Is this still SP with CAN we're talking about? If yes, can you retest and see what's reported on display tab? I mean at the end when it's almost flat and as hot as possible, but still maintaining the full power - without turning off the controller before connecting the usb cable.

If your controller is sp can, you can try the latest app from siaecosys website. Despite the app and controller version, I'd appreciate your config (ini file export) + screenshots (all tabs). I have part of these params reversed but I suspect there are some properties hidden from the user. What I want to do is to set it up exactly as you set it and compare these config files looking for differences.

About sport vs high modes, it's a day/night difference in throttle response. High mode has so much of a delay, it's impossible to wheelie at all, and there's no power hit at standstill. Throttle map is not linear, the current hit seems kinda rpm based also but not sure, I forgot about it since it was useless. If you can tell there's no difference between the two modes, this will be the 1st indicator there are some serious differences between our controllers. Anyway sport mode is the way to go + 255/255 in start settings (field 3,4).

Some more to compare if you don't mind (-; Check out if you can tell the difference after turning on the controller vs after like 4-5 wots. The difference was obvious, you can see it in one of the vids I uploaded.

Please keep us posted :thumb:
 
larsb said:
I’ve hooked up sport button and set to 350A bus bar current yesterday, today i’ll try it.
Omg it just came to me! Please don't do it (-; not before we figure it out and gather data. I think 300a (it seems to be stable at?) is more than enough.

Btw larsb what's your gear ratio atm?
 
It’s original 1:4.77 ratio, 17” wheels.

I had -5deg C this morning so no testing until temperature is higher, i don’t want to damage my battery, maybe i can find a way to preheat it.

Regarding trying latest program: controller is not SP/CAN, it’s a lot older.
i see more risk with trying new program than the 350A current. If there are hardware differences then i might brick my controller.
 
Bartosh said:
Some more to compare if you don't mind (-; Check out if you can tell the difference after turning on the controller vs after like 4-5 wots. The difference was obvious, you can see it in one of the vids I uploaded.

There’s no difference. As i said, whole battery emptied in 10-15 mins with no major difference in response
 
larsb said:
Bartosh said:
Some more to compare if you don't mind (-; Check out if you can tell the difference after turning on the controller vs after like 4-5 wots. The difference was obvious, you can see it in one of the vids I uploaded.

There’s no difference. As i said, whole battery emptied in 10-15 mins with no major difference in response

So you can make sport mode and "high" mode, feel the excact same way ?
 
SilverLine said:
larsb said:
Bartosh said:
Some more to compare if you don't mind (-; Check out if you can tell the difference after turning on the controller vs after like 4-5 wots. The difference was obvious, you can see it in one of the vids I uploaded.

There’s no difference. As i said, whole battery emptied in 10-15 mins with no major difference in response

So you can make sport mode and "high" mode, feel the excact way ?

Hey my fellow companions. I wanted to ask the exact same question, to begin with. If you can feel no difference between high/sport, we have totally different controllers/firmware versions. Again, we're talking about SP+CAN? Maybe it's hard to tell because of the gear ratio? Anyway you can simply test it out without load, VERY fast WOT/close in high mode results < 1800 RPM, sport = max, in my case.

BTW my prev questions are still valid, if you may. Maybe we'll find something in the config file.

Edit: OK, I can see your edited post now, so it's not SP+CAN :/
 
I got brake issues now, three months of wet and salt driving has locked the brake pistons so i didn’t make it to work and back yesterday, discs were smoking.

Winter commuting sucks sometimes.

Ordered new pads, no driving for a while.

I still don’t know if there’s a difference high to sport. What i mean is that the ”limiting” does not seem to be present in my controller. Output is the same no matter how hard i drive.
 
Tomorrow i'm going to a local indoor gocart track, together with a Friend. We both use 150sp and qs mid drive, on our gokarts. We both only drive in sport mode, with 180amp bush bar / 180amp sport mode settings.
Interesting to se, if one of us is getting any power loss failure.
 
What is getting more and more annoying is the overspin protection. Or maybe it's both, a combination of temp/overspin factors, not sure. Anyway the result is disappointing. I connected a simple temp sensor to the votol's case, it never got above 36C. You can see what I mean here (uphillcut1): https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m8awnqf87y24se0/AABgacxuuXNjcuHtYXwqmwC6a?dl=0

WOT @26sec and at the end. You can actually hear the current being limited as it happens.

Btw I've just received my nucular, I want to test it during this weekend. Guys any suggestions before I disconnect the whole thing? Eg. I was planning to test at what pA it starts to lift the front wheel (ramping maxed out). Same with say 20/30/40 kph @ max settings.
 
Hello again.

Is there any difference configuring EM-150 with gray plastic, comparing with the usual EM-150 with black plastic case?

Thanks for the help!
69483acae13a17f67435f0afff41aeac.jpg


Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 7 mediante Tapatalk

 
I just sent an @ to Judy from QS (saw her active in a different thread). For now I got a general response, but this may explain votol's total silence.

QSMOTOR said:
Hi, thank you for your message. Because of the virus in Wuhan, our government extend our Chinese New Year Holiday to 18th Feb, that so there is no reply from VOTOL. Could you tell which motor do you use and what is your motor power, voltage, speed?

Anyway I sent them a link to this thread again + some info on my setup. If anyone is interested in solving the "powerloss" issue (regardless the reason), please send them a short PM describing your setup; the more of us, the better. Direct contact link [QS]: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/ucp.php?i=pm&mode=compose&u=34192

Edit: Something's going on. Please keep posting them info, maybe there's hope for a solution.
QSMOTOR said:
I got it. I will check.

And the VOTOL is upgrading from 2019, i will check this problem with them.
 
I removed rear brake and tried sport and high tonight, there's no clear difference. 350A bus bar current is too much, i got cutouts left and right :wink:
I'll see if the torque rise and decline can be set, i recall it wasn't possible last time i tried. My ramping is not agressive in either mode.
 
larsb said:
I removed rear brake and tried sport and high tonight, there's no clear difference. 350A bus bar current is too much, i got cutouts left and right :wink:
I'll see if the torque rise and decline can be set, i recall it wasn't possible last time i tried. My ramping is not agressive in either mode.
350A DC with no rear brake sounds like fun [; What's the nature of these cutouts? You need to restart the controller?
I suspect the torque rise/decline params may be respected (or noticeable?) in the sport mode only. I mean the sport mode ramping allows it to kick harder.
 
So my friend and I did a test run today on the local indoor gokart track. We both run 150sp and qs mid drive motor. None of us, had any power loss problems. We drove about 30min... Due to the small indoor track, we never excceeded 55kmh though. I guess field weakening never was active ?

It was very very fun, and to much torque for the track :p
 
Can you export your settings and post the ini file here? About fw - I suppose only votol knows. Anyway happy for you mate. It all depends on the type of riding I guess.
 
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