speedy1984
100 W
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2018
- Messages
- 248
Looks great,so this video was only 300dc then buddyI really want to see this thing on the road at 600 bombing away from traffic lights lol.
It wasn't required in my jurisdiction, but I did build and fit a small 3s 12ish volt li-ion battery into my build, with a way to easily connect it to my 12v accessories. I've used it twice, once when I wasn't paying attention to battery life and ran out of juice away from home. And once when my main 12v converter failed and I needed a way to run headlights while I waited for a replacement. Just my two cents, but consider keeping a backup 12v source easily available.Still need to fit the 12v battery. Its stupid because as soon as its engineered Im going to rip it out.
Clearly, I jinxed myself responding to this topic: my 12v converter fried this morning, again (my fault this time), and for the third time, I had my spare 12v battery ready to go, powering my headlights on the way to work. Just goes to show that it might not be a bad idea having a spare battery ready to go.It wasn't required in my jurisdiction, but I did build and fit a small 3s 12ish volt li-ion battery into my build, with a way to easily connect it to my 12v accessories. I've used it twice, once when I wasn't paying attention to battery life and ran out of juice away from home. And once when my main 12v converter failed and I needed a way to run headlights while I waited for a replacement. Just my two cents, but consider keeping a backup 12v source easily available.
The goal for the bushpig is to be a legally converted runaround bike. No offroad beyond graveI/fire roads. I would like the bike to be able to do a reasonable distance on the highway as well. Being able to commute or get anywhere I need in the warmer seasons is a big plus for this project.Hi Mate,
What are you hoping to do with the bush pig? If your happy with a bit of extra weight you could go up to around 10kwh of battery for some really good range. Be mindful of what the maximum power density of the batterys you end up choosing. A light weight pack for 50-80km range would probably be lighter then the stock engine. A countershaft is probably a good idea in hindsight. More work but soo much more flexability with gear choices. Ive toyed around with the idea of making a low profile gearbox that just bolts onto the front of the motor flange....Its probably possible.
The motor is 4 pole pairs, so I think the rpm should be correctDoug, can you tell me your top speed on your road gearing fella please. So im 24s,19" mx wheel, 53r 10f gearing with no reduction,running field weakening,a true 450dc and 1300ph im seeing huge torque but still 85-88 mph.It wheel pull the front wheel at 45-50pmh and on the rain today i was loosing the rear at 60+mph when punching it. So because our Fardriver controllers come in 4pole setup and this is purely for the rpm display only so we are reading the wrong rpm data.Im unable to change mine to 5 pole till me new Ble dongle gets here and wondering what rpm you are seeing if you changed it.So i think you have the same 108v180 FD controller i do and im seeing a difference of about 20-30 dc current from my shunt and the controller.
Sorry had a brain fart lol.I found out the the controller knows what number of poles any motor is but in the app its states all as 4pole.Lucky for us we are fine lol.The motor is 4 pole pairs, so I think the rpm should be correct
Hi,An update on my progress of reading data straight from the controller. For those who want to do this too, hopefully this will get you going,
When initially turned on the drive will try and init the bluetooth modem. If its not plugged in it will continually try. Not a bit deal but make sure your code will handle it.
To start the data streaming back send these bytes,
{0xAA, 0x13, 0xEC, 0x07, 0x01, 0xF1, 0xA2, 0x5D, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0}
A stream will start, but about once a second you will need to send this,
{0xAA, 0x13, 0xEC, 0x07, 0x01, 0xF1, 0xA2, 0x5D}
to keep it going.
The data coming back has a leading sync byte of 0xAA, followed by an ID packet going from 0x00 to 0x17 (24 fields). The rest of the packets seem to be data. Each packet is 16 bytes long, so 14 data Bytes.
Ive been a bit lazy because its cold in the shed but I dragged the bike into the kitchen and did some testing 8) . So far I have decoded throttle %, riding gear (low mid high), brake on, regen active, voltage, SOC, Throttle ADC reading (12bit ADC) and MOS temp. Couldnt find current, hard to tell by free spinning the wheel in the air, might be a job for the dyno. Im guessing watts is calculated, not transmitted. I also havent looked at writing data at all yet. Will look at it later. It would be nice to be able to change at least some of the basic settings from the dash.
View attachment 320418
If you just want it for SOC then it should be really easy to do with something like an arduino and a dual 7 seg display module.
Will update as I work more out.
EDIT: I suppose I should explain how to get voltage from 2 bytes. basically the controller is returning a 16bit number as 2 bytes, an upper and lower byte. If the voltage is at 95.5V the packet will look like this;
0xAA(sync), 0x01(ID), 0x03(upper byte), 0xBB(lower byte), (more data......)
so the 2 bytes together are 0x03BB. Convert that to decimal and its 955. Divide by 100. If your new to programming your data processing should look something like this;
voltage = ((upper byte << 8 ) + lower byte)/100
or;
voltage = (256 * upper byte + lower byte) /100
Doug
Hi,
I also have a desire to make a normal speedometer for my FARDRIVER NS30 series bike.
Did you manage to decode the controller and speedometer exchange?
Could you share your results?
Nike