TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[wgaca]

Up to v20.1C.3 there is positive feedback, only hang issues in the setup menu requiring battery disconnect.
I don't have a SW102 to test, but I think it works with v20.1C.4 as well.

I don't know if it works on newer displays as well, but if you see "Wait TSDZ2" the firmware is loaded correctly.
Obviously the hex file to be flashed on the motor controller must be of the same version.
With the display on, check the voltage between Vin and GND, there must be battery voltage.
Have you tried swapping TX with RX yet?

I tried swapping rx/tx as last resort but same issue.
I flash the same version to tsdz2 of course. The issue persists with all firmwares both from you and casainho except the original version of 0.19.5 that has full hex file actually fully boots but I can't find the 0.19 for the motor to test if it will work.

The display verison is sw102-key v02.12. Any help is appreciated, i really want to use a small display but this is the only one i find compatible with this motor.

After a few minutes the message changes to "e: RX" if that helps and if I swap rx/tx the message changes to "e: brakes"
The display was originally 8 pin, which might require breaks sensor to be connected to work?

both P+ and PL (brown and Orange) measure the battery voltage
TX - 5v or 3.8v when swapped
RX - 3.8V or 5v when swapped

I can send you the same version display if you are willing to look into it


Also, it's important to note that in the meantime I decided to keep using my vlcd5 with version v20.1.c.2 and all works good there.

 

[Yanis]

Up to v20.1C.3 there is positive feedback, only hang issues in the setup menu requiring battery disconnect.
I don't have a SW102 to test, but I think it works with v20.1C.4 as well.

I confirm that v20.1C.4 works well with SW102
Thanks a lot for your work mbrusa !

 

[jimmov]

I have just started playing with TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.2-update. This is first time for me going away from stock FW. My motor was a 48V 250W that was flashed successfully to 500W from a dump of a friend's motor. Worked a treat. Playing around with mbrusas FW I have realised the potential of it. However I find the display programming utterly confusing with my XH18 display. I have both user manuals (parameters & display) and have studied them in depth. Question: is there a mode where display programming is completely disabled? I want to determine the perfect settings for my girlfriend's bike and make sure that no accidental tampering can change it. Please help.

 

[mbrusa]

It is not possible to completely disable the setting of parameters, but it is very difficult to do it unintentionally.
And even if you change it unintentionally, turning the display off and on again restores the default programming.
Important "Set parameter on startup" must be disabled.
In Street and Offroad modes, set the same speed and power, so changing modes has no effect.

 

[Robson_39]

Hello All, I`m new to the forum and have a problem with this SW. In hybrid or EMTB modes bike is riding without presing the pedals. Is this is somehow connected to the fact that weight on pedals is showing around 5 even if pedals are not pressed? I'm using ktlcd3 display. I will be grateful for help

 

[mbrusa]

What version are you using?
Where do you read the weight on the pedals = 5?

 

[Robson_39]

What version are you using?
Where do you read the weight on the pedals = 5?

V20.1C.4, Advance setup - 3 weight on pedals.

 

[mbrusa]

Ok the version, but I didn't understand where you read weight on pedals.
However, check the value of "Pedal torque delta" (11.7), with no push on the pedals it must be zero.
If instead there is a value greater than zero, increase "Torque offset adjustment" (10.15) by this value.
Example:
"Pedal torque delta" = 5, "Torque offset adjustment" = 20.
Set "Torque offset adjustment" = 25 or higher.

 

[Robson_39]

Ok the version, but I didn't understand where you read weight on pedals.
However, check the value of "Pedal torque delta" (11.7), with no push on the pedals it must be zero.
If instead there is a value greater than zero, increase "Torque offset adjustment" (10.15) by this value.
Example:
"Pedal torque delta" = 5, "Torque offset adjustment" = 20.
Set "Torque offset adjustment" = 25 or higher.

Click to expand...

The place in manual where i found this value, it is chapter 10.3. I added screen shot. 11.7 showing 31, way to much - see attachment. Looks like I have SW V20.1C not V20.1C.4 and il looks that I don't have 10.14 + advance settings I found correct SW I will flash it and check. Thanks for support!

 

[darrick255]

First off Thanks to everyone who has worked so hard on making this better than stock.

Now to the meat and potatoes of my post. I broke my bike, Warranty was not helpful. I'm hoping you guys can assist me.

What do I Have
I have an old bike with the TSDZ2 48v kit from auto-ebike.com. I have both a VLCD5 and VLCD6 (with throttle). I have a 52V battery. I Have an STLink v2.
the bike has 70km on the odometer
i have used many Firmware versions as the default 48v won't work with My battery.

What is wrong:
On 52v "stock" firmware I have no pedal assist and the throttle doesn't work. However if I hold the throttle and push the bike Backwards the motor engages and weekly assists.
On mbrusa's latest release I get an error 4 message when pedaling (torque Sensor Error i believe). The throttle does nothing.

What Happened:
at this time I was running Emmebrusa OSF fork for VLCD5 with a 52v battery set for 12A draw.
When riding it one day the assist abruptly stopped working and the Screen VLCD5 froze with 15km/h on the display and didn't update or respond to button presses.
I power cycled the battery and the screen became responsive again. showing current speed and changing modes etc. The Bike however had no assist through throttle or torque sensor.

after getting it back home I tried doing some troubleshooting With an adapter cable and vlcd6 screen and separate throttle i had on hand.
no change with a separate screen. still displayed speed and switched modes but no assist.

However this when i noticed that if i have the throttle Engaged and try to roll the bike backwards the motor engages and assisted. however as soon as i let go of the throttle and tried while in motion there was no assist. additionally this assist was very weak, very easy to hold the bike still with one foot lightly on the ground.

This led me to think that the blue gear was shredded and possibly causing issues with the assist being read. However when i disassembled the motor Everything is perfect as far as i can tell. all the gears are in great condition i dont see any discoloration on the Motor or Controller. I did notice that the blue green and yellow terminals were hard to separate from the motor leads.

I found some instructions online to test the controller (https://ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf).
I went through and tested as described and it looks like the Yellow phase mosfets (high and low) are damaged.

Green phase to Positive/Red = 129kΩ and increasing as the capacitor charged
Blue phase to Positive/Red = 128kΩ and increasing as the capacitor charged
Yellow phase to Positive/Red = 0Ω with no change
Green phase to Ground/Black = 119kΩ
Blue phase to Ground/Black = 119kΩ
Yellow phase to Ground/Black = 4mΩ

I got a New 48v 8 pin controller and installed it. however when I flash the 52V "stock" and Mbrusa firmware again I get the same behaviour as i had originally.

Will the throttle not work if the Torque Sensor is broken?
Could this be a Hall effect sensor in the motor not working? (can i check this somehow?)
what else can I check/do to troubleshoot the issue.

I have all the tools needed to pull this thing completely apart and have no worries about doing so.

thanks In advance

 

[Robson_39]

The place in manual where i found this value, it is chapter 10.3. I added screen shot. 11.7 showing 31, way to much - see attachment. Looks like I have SW V20.1C not V20.1C.4 and il looks that I don't have 10.14 + advance settings is there any option to change mentioned parametr on this SW? Or whether 20.1C.4 is available for KTLCD3?

The place in manual where i found this value, it is chapter 10.3. I added screen shot. 11.7 showing 31, way to much - see attachment. Looks like I have SW V20.1C not V20.1C.4 and il looks that I don't have 10.14 + advance settings I found correct SW I will flash it and check. Thanks for support!

So I flashed correct SW and everything is working like a dream it's great SW big thanks to everyone involved in development.

 

[mbrusa]

Well!
You probably had v20.1C.3 installed first.

 

[nobodyimportant]

Completely noob Q here.
I have a TSDZ2 and I was given a 5 pin 860C display. Can I use this for running OSF? and how to I go about programming it vs a 6pin?
Can I program using the same method, but utilising the 1T4 bafang cable harness an an intermediary to the usual method of the speed sensor extension wire for making the adapter?

Its a 48v 750w motor with the VLCD5 display and throttle. no lights no brake sensors.

 

[mbrusa]

The simplest solution is to use OSF with VLCD5, you just have to flash the motor with st-link and Java configurator.
With 860C it is more complicated, 1T4 for Bafang is not good, you need a specific one for TSDZ2, or a DIY one.
The accelerator connector also does not fit., it must be replaced.
Besides flashing the motor with st-link and ST visual programmer, you also need to flash the display with another adapter and APT software.
Flash the firmware on 860C 850C using bootloader

 

[nobodyimportant]

OK thanks! that's really helpful. I have the STlink and have downloaded ST Visual programmer. So It looks like I'll stick with the VLCD5 for now then.
If I did want to upgrade to a screen that allows me to control more stuff on the fly, should I just try and buy one ready made from say Eco-cycle or similar? or can i just try and get hold of a 6 pin 850 or similar?

 

[mbrusa]

All displays for TSDZ2 6 pin, including 850C, have the same functionality, only the appearance changes.
For 860C, if you don't consider DIY, you need to buy one already with OSF.

 

[AnonJohn]

The max. cadence depends on the max. rpm.
A 36V 4000rpm or a 48V 4000rpm handle a max. cadence of about 90
If you run a 36V 4000rpm with 48V battery the max. cadence rises to about 120
If you run the 48V tsdz2 with 36V battery the max. cadence drops to about 70
With OSF and fieldweakening you can rise that max. cadence a bit, but less effective and not as high you want.
So for a higher cadence it would be better to use a >52V battery with 48V 4000rpm Tsdz2

Your options are:
- Replace battery (48V-52V)
- Replace bare motor (36V)
- Ad a DC-DC boostconverter

Imho the most clean and cost effective solution is the advice from @Blacklite to replace the bare motor and reflash the firmware for a 36V motor.
A DC-DC boostconverter is maybe cheaper but need to be wired and packed in a waterproof case with cooling.

Following up on this in useful to anyone else: Replacing the 48V motor with a 36 V motor has worked brilliantly. Thanks to Elinx and Blacklite for pointing me in this direction. I don't even need field weakening when the battery is fully charged, but do as the voltage drops.

I have found the 36V motor to be louder. Hopefully that is just indicative of it spinning faster and not of an installation mistake.

----------
Totally unrelated, but since I'm posting, I would welcome help on a lighting circuit problem. All OSF. I am using the lighting circuit to drive a B&M Toplight dynamo rear light, which I think should be reasonable on current and voltage. I've been unable to find current specs but dynamos put out 6 V / ½ A / 3 W max, which is a match for the lighting circuit.

Problem 1: It turns on as expected, reliably. Brake flashing works. And then, mid-ride, it shuts off. Turning lights off and on again restores. I can't find a pattern and it's dangerous to lose the rear light at night, especially since I can't see when it goes off. I'm guessing current draw is too high and I need another light? Any thoughts?

Problem 2: In lighting mode 6 ("on and fast flashing when braking even with the light control OFF") the lights are off until I turn them on. I don't think this is the expected behavior? Similar "not on" at start behavior for modes 7 and 8. Am I misunderstanding this mode?

Ideas welcome!
Cheers and thanks again for helping me solve the real problem! This thing is now seriously fun ... ☺

 

[qlqlqlp]

Hi, quick question. I'm about to buy tsdz2b kit to get into all of this good stuff! Options are vlcd5 with 6 or 8 pin or 850C. I'm leaning towards vlcd5 and save up to buy an 860C later. Does OSF work with either 6 or 8 pin? (I'd ideally like 8pin it throttle/lights).... Or should I just get 850C?... Seems a shame as it costs more and isn't 860C. Also, which is easiest for noob to flash? Thank you for any guidance

 

[amberwolf]

Totally unrelated, but since I'm posting, I would welcome help on a lighting circuit problem. All OSF. I am using the lighting circuit to drive a B&M Toplight dynamo rear light, which I think should be reasonable on current and voltage. I've been unable to find current specs but dynamos put out 6 V / ½ A / 3 W max, which is a match for the lighting circuit.

Problem 1: It turns on as expected, reliably. Brake flashing works. And then, mid-ride, it shuts off. Turning lights off and on again restores. I can't find a pattern and it's dangerous to lose the rear light at night, especially since I can't see when it goes off. I'm guessing current draw is too high and I need another light? Any thoughts?

When it shuts off, is there still output from the lighting supply circuit? (measured with a voltmeter, for instance) If so, there may be something in the light itself shutting down for some reason.

For the moment, if you take a regular little red LED and a resistor calculated to allow just a few mA of current thru the LED, wire them in series with each other. Then run a wire from the taillight supply voltage and ground to them up on your handlebars, and you will then know if the power to the taillight is shut off (it won't tell you if the TL turns off on it's own, though).

 

[Elinx]

...Options are vlcd5 with 6 or 8 pin or 850C. .....which is easiest for noob to flash?....

OSF does work with 6 or 8 pin, because only the number of wires are different.
Noob flashing, choose Vlcd5, 8pin with throttle. You only need to flash the controller.

NB
You had missed this post from mbrusa with the same advice?

 

[AnonJohn]

When it shuts off, is there still output from the lighting supply circuit? (measured with a voltmeter, for instance) If so, there may be something in the light itself shutting down for some reason.

For the moment, if you take a regular little red LED and a resistor calculated to allow just a few mA of current thru the LED, wire them in series with each other. Then run a wire from the taillight supply voltage and ground to them up on your handlebars, and you will then know if the power to the taillight is shut off (it won't tell you if the TL turns off on it's own, though).

Good hypotheses, thanks. Will try!

 

[qlqlqlp]

OSF does work with 6 or 8 pin, because only the number of wires are different.
Noob flashing, choose Vlcd5, 8pin with throttle. You only need to flash the controller.

NB
You had missed this post from mbrusa with the same advice?

Thanks, no not missed but clarifying if 6/8 pin made a difference (and if anyone thought I should still get the 850C and worth the extra hassle for some other reason). Just pre-purchase double-check. So really no need for scolding - in any case there are currently 1822 posts on here so no big crime to miss one!

 

[Elinx]

... So really no need for scolding ..... no big crime to miss one!

Oh sorry, it wasn't meant to take this as scolding, but to emphaze the link to that message.
(The underscore was hidden, but find it now)

 

[Blacklite]

Following up on this in useful to anyone else: Replacing the 48V motor with a 36 V motor has worked brilliantly. Thanks to Elinx and Blacklite for pointing me in this direction. I don't even need field weakening when the battery is fully charged, but do as the voltage drops.

I have found the 36V motor to be louder. Hopefully that is just indicative of it spinning faster and not of an installation mistake.

Did you grease the blue gear when you installed the new motor? if so what grease did you use? Maybe that’s responsible for the change in noise…

Interested if you tried any of the heat dissipation mods?

 

[kiwinigma]

Hi All,
I'm running the latest version of emmebrusa's software for VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18-850C. I have a 36v kit with 6 pin 850c (8 pin motor, throttle) from recycle-ebike and a 48v battery. I've got a couple of little questions/issues that I'm wondering if they're commonly experienced or not:

-i've got the mode set to hybrid, but it seems that sometimes (perhaps mostly after running for a while ie warmed up) the motor will supply some power even if just turning the pedals without providing torque, ie it behaves as if it's in cadence mode. Not a lot of power but enough to say cruise at 20-25. It feels a bit dangerous as it will start assisting while I'm still in the mounting-the-bike-from-a-stop phase. Does anyone else experience this? I do have a bit of the extra-assist-from-start (sorry can't remember the name right now) turned on but my impression was that needed some torque, not just cadence, and it also happens at higher speeds/cadences not just low.

-the distance compensation doesn't appear to work completely. It displays the numerical speed as zero, but the green-circle speed display still displays the speed, and the odo still increments while this is happening. Not a big deal but good to check.


Another question: if I was to get brake sensors, where in the wiring loom do they plug in? Do they need a specific x-to-x cable?