For classical guitar?
2008 CRF250R - QS138v3 70H - ANT - Sanyo UR18650-RX 20s20p - Votol EM260
- Thread starter bananu7
- Start date
Original is played on electric, but I think it would work acoustically. I won't post a PDF but it's easily found online.
Today is going to be an unboxing post, as I took a brief detour.
My bag of goods arrived. I got the forged CF kit, just picked out the important parts without the unnecessary ancillaries. In the back I also have my vacuum bagging consumables which I intend to use on the glass fibre parts.
I got the example brake level mold printed by my friend and it's currently setting in my living room (for optimal temps).
I am working non-stop on the battery cover pattern. I've lost count of how many layers I've put on already. I started with styrodur foam, acrylic paint (took it well), soft polyester filler (no issues) and then I decided to throw epoxy primer on top for extra protection/gloss/nicer release. And that broke it, as during sanding i broke through the filler, and the primer dissolved it in multiple spots
I really thought that an epoxy-based primer wouldn't interact with the foam like that, but alas. So it left me with filling the melted holes, sanding again, filling the ones i missed, sanding again... I caved in and ordered a new random orbital sander which should make next jobs much quicker.
I didn't take any pics of the pattern yet, but I'll try to remember to snap one tomorrow. It's definitely looking better than the attempt #1; I just hope it won't end up to be too tight, because otherwise it should sit as good as it gets.
My bag of goods arrived. I got the forged CF kit, just picked out the important parts without the unnecessary ancillaries. In the back I also have my vacuum bagging consumables which I intend to use on the glass fibre parts.
I got the example brake level mold printed by my friend and it's currently setting in my living room (for optimal temps).
I am working non-stop on the battery cover pattern. I've lost count of how many layers I've put on already. I started with styrodur foam, acrylic paint (took it well), soft polyester filler (no issues) and then I decided to throw epoxy primer on top for extra protection/gloss/nicer release. And that broke it, as during sanding i broke through the filler, and the primer dissolved it in multiple spots
I really thought that an epoxy-based primer wouldn't interact with the foam like that, but alas. So it left me with filling the melted holes, sanding again, filling the ones i missed, sanding again... I caved in and ordered a new random orbital sander which should make next jobs much quicker.
I didn't take any pics of the pattern yet, but I'll try to remember to snap one tomorrow. It's definitely looking better than the attempt #1; I just hope it won't end up to be too tight, because otherwise it should sit as good as it gets.
And as promised
You can clearly see a much better defined seating "corner" where the rest of the case is supposed to slide in and sit. Only looking at the photo I've realized how many scratches I've put on it yesterday... Oh well, hopefully at this point i can freely cover it in more primer layers.
You can clearly see a much better defined seating "corner" where the rest of the case is supposed to slide in and sit. Only looking at the photo I've realized how many scratches I've put on it yesterday... Oh well, hopefully at this point i can freely cover it in more primer layers.
Last edited:
Well, not too horrible. I still see so many small issues, places where the solvent kept attacking the foam etc, but when I go back to the previous model, it's pretty much night and day. I suppose I don't need to make it perfect, just to fit the box.
On the same note, I've upgraded the "oven" but I had to give up my big box and this one is too small. It will have to make up for itself by being appropriately branded, lol. I promise I will build an actual oven at some point. The controller works very well and being able to control both setpoints gives me confidence of keeping the overshoot under control.
I also remembered to machine a seat nub this time. I managed to frock up the thread, so I just drilled it out all the way and helicoiled - that will be durable enough. The gelcoat is curing currently (that will be the inside of the box) and I'll add it when laminating on top of it.
This is how it looked when vacuum bagged. At first I thought I might be draining a lot of resin out, despite using the perforated film, but figured it's too late to change anything at that point. I left it with my oven setup under vacuum overnight.
And surprisingly, it turned out really well. I didn't have much time today but couldn't wait and demolded it. It all went reasonably easy. I also decided to melt the foam out of the mould in revenge for all my previous issues. It went way easier than I expected - this foam is really really vulnerable to chemical attacks.
I ran to my basement to check fitment. Preliminary test - goes on a bit too easily, but seems to rest on the edge I made. It's also a bit too shallow, especially once I cut of the bend from the mould. I think the most reasonable way of dealing with sealing would be to simply use silicone. The gap is about 4mm in the worst places, so technically I suppose I could get away by making a smaller part on the inside of this one, but then I'd lose definition on the inside.
Will post more when I clean it up.
I've decided to go with this one. I had a small panic attack when the battery didn't want to slide all the way in and the cover was resting on cells instead of box edge, but i cleaned the inside up and it's all good now. I know it all looks like shit, but that's because I was using the original box during almost all operations, so it's dirty in fillers, primers, paint etc. I plan to sand it smoother anyway and then give both parts a good coat of paint.
The cover actually turned out really nice. The haphazard vacuum process reduced bubbling and gave it a nice even peel-ply finish. Unfortunately i didn't a good job of eliminating bridging, which pooled a lot of resin around the perimeter. I used a wood rasp to get most of it removed, but the one particularly bad spot still has remnants of breather and peel ply solidly frozen in there - i think the thickness got to about 8mm there. If there was no bridging, i think it would turn out great. It also held the vacuum overnight, and my oven kept the temperature nice and even. All in all, this time it went yet smoother than previously, even if the results still aren't perfect.
I drilled and mounted the terminals, and discovered my negative side cables are about 10cm too long. Thankfully the cover has more than enough space to coil them up nicely. While attempting that, i managed to snatch a first short and arc crack, when i thought the BMS was disabled. Oh well, lesson learned. I also need longer M10 bolts for internal terminals, as I have a stack of 3 plates for both positive and negative side (negative is 3x6AWG, positive is 8 copper braids into 3 connectors). Overall connectivity of the battery looks to be quite decent cabling-wise, and i have zero doubts about it being able to support the planned 350A - it's the cells I'm most concerned about. Oh, and most likely i won't be able to fit a fuse with the extra cabling and all, so will have to rely on the BMS.
So, the plan for next week - get the cover and main box even, apply some finishing coat, put battery in with some padding foam, seal with silicone, put on the bike. Then i can do a dry motor test and start the work on the new airbox, which will house the controller and the charging connector.
peadar
100 W
nice battery connector ,where from?
Aliexpress. They're the 500A variant, largest I could found.
I've decided to paint instead of adding more gelcoat on top. I've spent so much time on this box already that I couldn't justify 10+h of extra prep, sanding etc., especially considering a thick layer could again generate fitment problems. Since I plan to cover it with body panels at some point anyway, I'm not too concerned about how it looks.
I think it's time to start putting it together for a test run
Exciting that assembly is nigh!
Quick comment, that you might already have plans for... A set of hearty O.D. washers or even plate bracket for the inside of the lid where the power post fasteners go through the glass laminate will strengthen the structure by spreading out any stress risers, and help prevent cracks from forming from the imminent trail adventures.
Quick comment, that you might already have plans for... A set of hearty O.D. washers or even plate bracket for the inside of the lid where the power post fasteners go through the glass laminate will strengthen the structure by spreading out any stress risers, and help prevent cracks from forming from the imminent trail adventures.
That would be a good idea, but i won't fit much more than the nominal M4 ones - it curves too much on the inside - at least in the corners. I've planned for it during layup, though, and added a couple of extra layers of mat in this area, so it's reasonably rigid.
I guess I'll start with static motor testing and then see how quickly i can add the safety critical stuff. It's easy to forget, but I am not intending to get on it until it has functional brakes, a killswitch and all bolts tight.
Hmmm, okay, so this is a bit weird. I got the motor back home (as it's raining and 2C outside) and hooked up to my battery.
It's consistently displaying "hall fault". The thing is, when I run the self-learn procedure, it clears, turns the motor slowly with a lot of vibration and goes into "RUN" mode (and the whole system starts making a whining noise).
Then when I clear the self-learn pin and reboot, it goes back to "hall fault" state. I'm going to try and find what am I doing wrong.
It's consistently displaying "hall fault". The thing is, when I run the self-learn procedure, it clears, turns the motor slowly with a lot of vibration and goes into "RUN" mode (and the whole system starts making a whining noise).
Then when I clear the self-learn pin and reboot, it goes back to "hall fault" state. I'm going to try and find what am I doing wrong.
Well, that was easy. 3800 RPM unloaded at 6A@77V. I don't have mode switch hooked up so I guess it's not really doing any FW yet.
For reference, "hall fault" also means "throttle fault", as an unconnected throttle will cause that. Then, and i couldn't find it for the love of me, for QS138v3 70H:
All in all, 15 minutes for a motor setup? I call BS on Votols being hard to tune
For reference, "hall fault" also means "throttle fault", as an unconnected throttle will cause that. Then, and i couldn't find it for the love of me, for QS138v3 70H:
- there's 5 pole pairs
- motor type is V-type as that's an IPM
- hall angle at 60 with some cable flip settings will work but show negative RPM. What I had to do was to set the hall angle to -60 like I've seen some folks do
- Yellow - U
- Green - V
- Blue - W
All in all, 15 minutes for a motor setup? I call BS on Votols being hard to tune
Okay, I got S, R and Mode inputs working. L/M/H have indeed different max RPMs, and in S it goes up to 5880RPM, which is 75km/h according to my spreadsheet, so perfectly fine. For some reason I can't get brake and park switches to work though, maybe my pin assignments are wrong.
For reference, those are the setttings of inputs:
Controller temp and external temp seem to be working fine, though hard to tell since my motor was in the cold garage and after all my tests heated to indicated 18C.
For reference, those are the setttings of inputs:
Controller temp and external temp seem to be working fine, though hard to tell since my motor was in the cold garage and after all my tests heated to indicated 18C.
Last edited:
Similar threads
