For classical guitar?
2008 CRF250R - QS138v3 70H - ANT - Sanyo UR18650-RX 20s20p - Votol EM260
- Thread starter bananu7
- Start date
Original is played on electric, but I think it would work acoustically. I won't post a PDF but it's easily found online.
Today is going to be an unboxing post, as I took a brief detour.
My bag of goods arrived. I got the forged CF kit, just picked out the important parts without the unnecessary ancillaries. In the back I also have my vacuum bagging consumables which I intend to use on the glass fibre parts.
I got the example brake level mold printed by my friend and it's currently setting in my living room (for optimal temps).
I am working non-stop on the battery cover pattern. I've lost count of how many layers I've put on already. I started with styrodur foam, acrylic paint (took it well), soft polyester filler (no issues) and then I decided to throw epoxy primer on top for extra protection/gloss/nicer release. And that broke it, as during sanding i broke through the filler, and the primer dissolved it in multiple spots
I really thought that an epoxy-based primer wouldn't interact with the foam like that, but alas. So it left me with filling the melted holes, sanding again, filling the ones i missed, sanding again... I caved in and ordered a new random orbital sander which should make next jobs much quicker.
I didn't take any pics of the pattern yet, but I'll try to remember to snap one tomorrow. It's definitely looking better than the attempt #1; I just hope it won't end up to be too tight, because otherwise it should sit as good as it gets.
My bag of goods arrived. I got the forged CF kit, just picked out the important parts without the unnecessary ancillaries. In the back I also have my vacuum bagging consumables which I intend to use on the glass fibre parts.
I got the example brake level mold printed by my friend and it's currently setting in my living room (for optimal temps).
I am working non-stop on the battery cover pattern. I've lost count of how many layers I've put on already. I started with styrodur foam, acrylic paint (took it well), soft polyester filler (no issues) and then I decided to throw epoxy primer on top for extra protection/gloss/nicer release. And that broke it, as during sanding i broke through the filler, and the primer dissolved it in multiple spots
I really thought that an epoxy-based primer wouldn't interact with the foam like that, but alas. So it left me with filling the melted holes, sanding again, filling the ones i missed, sanding again... I caved in and ordered a new random orbital sander which should make next jobs much quicker.
I didn't take any pics of the pattern yet, but I'll try to remember to snap one tomorrow. It's definitely looking better than the attempt #1; I just hope it won't end up to be too tight, because otherwise it should sit as good as it gets.
And as promised
You can clearly see a much better defined seating "corner" where the rest of the case is supposed to slide in and sit. Only looking at the photo I've realized how many scratches I've put on it yesterday... Oh well, hopefully at this point i can freely cover it in more primer layers.
You can clearly see a much better defined seating "corner" where the rest of the case is supposed to slide in and sit. Only looking at the photo I've realized how many scratches I've put on it yesterday... Oh well, hopefully at this point i can freely cover it in more primer layers.
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Well, not too horrible. I still see so many small issues, places where the solvent kept attacking the foam etc, but when I go back to the previous model, it's pretty much night and day. I suppose I don't need to make it perfect, just to fit the box.
On the same note, I've upgraded the "oven" but I had to give up my big box and this one is too small. It will have to make up for itself by being appropriately branded, lol. I promise I will build an actual oven at some point. The controller works very well and being able to control both setpoints gives me confidence of keeping the overshoot under control.
I also remembered to machine a seat nub this time. I managed to frock up the thread, so I just drilled it out all the way and helicoiled - that will be durable enough. The gelcoat is curing currently (that will be the inside of the box) and I'll add it when laminating on top of it.
This is how it looked when vacuum bagged. At first I thought I might be draining a lot of resin out, despite using the perforated film, but figured it's too late to change anything at that point. I left it with my oven setup under vacuum overnight.
And surprisingly, it turned out really well. I didn't have much time today but couldn't wait and demolded it. It all went reasonably easy. I also decided to melt the foam out of the mould in revenge for all my previous issues. It went way easier than I expected - this foam is really really vulnerable to chemical attacks.
I ran to my basement to check fitment. Preliminary test - goes on a bit too easily, but seems to rest on the edge I made. It's also a bit too shallow, especially once I cut of the bend from the mould. I think the most reasonable way of dealing with sealing would be to simply use silicone. The gap is about 4mm in the worst places, so technically I suppose I could get away by making a smaller part on the inside of this one, but then I'd lose definition on the inside.
Will post more when I clean it up.
I've decided to go with this one. I had a small panic attack when the battery didn't want to slide all the way in and the cover was resting on cells instead of box edge, but i cleaned the inside up and it's all good now. I know it all looks like shit, but that's because I was using the original box during almost all operations, so it's dirty in fillers, primers, paint etc. I plan to sand it smoother anyway and then give both parts a good coat of paint.
The cover actually turned out really nice. The haphazard vacuum process reduced bubbling and gave it a nice even peel-ply finish. Unfortunately i didn't a good job of eliminating bridging, which pooled a lot of resin around the perimeter. I used a wood rasp to get most of it removed, but the one particularly bad spot still has remnants of breather and peel ply solidly frozen in there - i think the thickness got to about 8mm there. If there was no bridging, i think it would turn out great. It also held the vacuum overnight, and my oven kept the temperature nice and even. All in all, this time it went yet smoother than previously, even if the results still aren't perfect.
I drilled and mounted the terminals, and discovered my negative side cables are about 10cm too long. Thankfully the cover has more than enough space to coil them up nicely. While attempting that, i managed to snatch a first short and arc crack, when i thought the BMS was disabled. Oh well, lesson learned. I also need longer M10 bolts for internal terminals, as I have a stack of 3 plates for both positive and negative side (negative is 3x6AWG, positive is 8 copper braids into 3 connectors). Overall connectivity of the battery looks to be quite decent cabling-wise, and i have zero doubts about it being able to support the planned 350A - it's the cells I'm most concerned about. Oh, and most likely i won't be able to fit a fuse with the extra cabling and all, so will have to rely on the BMS.
So, the plan for next week - get the cover and main box even, apply some finishing coat, put battery in with some padding foam, seal with silicone, put on the bike. Then i can do a dry motor test and start the work on the new airbox, which will house the controller and the charging connector.
peadar
100 W
nice battery connector ,where from?
Aliexpress. They're the 500A variant, largest I could found.
I've decided to paint instead of adding more gelcoat on top. I've spent so much time on this box already that I couldn't justify 10+h of extra prep, sanding etc., especially considering a thick layer could again generate fitment problems. Since I plan to cover it with body panels at some point anyway, I'm not too concerned about how it looks.
I think it's time to start putting it together for a test run
Exciting that assembly is nigh!
Quick comment, that you might already have plans for... A set of hearty O.D. washers or even plate bracket for the inside of the lid where the power post fasteners go through the glass laminate will strengthen the structure by spreading out any stress risers, and help prevent cracks from forming from the imminent trail adventures.
Quick comment, that you might already have plans for... A set of hearty O.D. washers or even plate bracket for the inside of the lid where the power post fasteners go through the glass laminate will strengthen the structure by spreading out any stress risers, and help prevent cracks from forming from the imminent trail adventures.
That would be a good idea, but i won't fit much more than the nominal M4 ones - it curves too much on the inside - at least in the corners. I've planned for it during layup, though, and added a couple of extra layers of mat in this area, so it's reasonably rigid.
I guess I'll start with static motor testing and then see how quickly i can add the safety critical stuff. It's easy to forget, but I am not intending to get on it until it has functional brakes, a killswitch and all bolts tight.
Hmmm, okay, so this is a bit weird. I got the motor back home (as it's raining and 2C outside) and hooked up to my battery.
It's consistently displaying "hall fault". The thing is, when I run the self-learn procedure, it clears, turns the motor slowly with a lot of vibration and goes into "RUN" mode (and the whole system starts making a whining noise).
Then when I clear the self-learn pin and reboot, it goes back to "hall fault" state. I'm going to try and find what am I doing wrong.
It's consistently displaying "hall fault". The thing is, when I run the self-learn procedure, it clears, turns the motor slowly with a lot of vibration and goes into "RUN" mode (and the whole system starts making a whining noise).
Then when I clear the self-learn pin and reboot, it goes back to "hall fault" state. I'm going to try and find what am I doing wrong.
Well, that was easy. 3800 RPM unloaded at 6A@77V. I don't have mode switch hooked up so I guess it's not really doing any FW yet.
For reference, "hall fault" also means "throttle fault", as an unconnected throttle will cause that. Then, and i couldn't find it for the love of me, for QS138v3 70H:
All in all, 15 minutes for a motor setup? I call BS on Votols being hard to tune
For reference, "hall fault" also means "throttle fault", as an unconnected throttle will cause that. Then, and i couldn't find it for the love of me, for QS138v3 70H:
- there's 5 pole pairs
- motor type is V-type as that's an IPM
- hall angle at 60 with some cable flip settings will work but show negative RPM. What I had to do was to set the hall angle to -60 like I've seen some folks do
- Yellow - U
- Green - V
- Blue - W
All in all, 15 minutes for a motor setup? I call BS on Votols being hard to tune
Okay, I got S, R and Mode inputs working. L/M/H have indeed different max RPMs, and in S it goes up to 5880RPM, which is 75km/h according to my spreadsheet, so perfectly fine. For some reason I can't get brake and park switches to work though, maybe my pin assignments are wrong.
For reference, those are the setttings of inputs:
Controller temp and external temp seem to be working fine, though hard to tell since my motor was in the cold garage and after all my tests heated to indicated 18C.
For reference, those are the setttings of inputs:
Controller temp and external temp seem to be working fine, though hard to tell since my motor was in the cold garage and after all my tests heated to indicated 18C.
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Small update: I also got PC14 and PD1 mapped out and working - they are brought out to two 2-pin connectors with female metal bits. I can assign the missing park and brake inputs to them, which is quite convenient. I still have two dual connectors with unknown function and/or mapping, one one singular purple connection which i believe is another brake line.
Also, the meaning of those toggles is a bit cryptic, but one thing I'm sort of certain of is that SW means a toggle switch (reacting to edges) while LA means "active when pressed, not active when not pressed".
Also, the meaning of those toggles is a bit cryptic, but one thing I'm sort of certain of is that SW means a toggle switch (reacting to edges) while LA means "active when pressed, not active when not pressed".
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gustavo88py
1 W
in industry and agricultural implements
chain asa40
I use chain asa40 and sproket 65t asa40
Asa It's American norm
Asa40 is same 428
Asa50 es same 520
Thanks, I didn't know that. Might come in handy at some point - for now I wanted a sprocket that would bolt right onto the original wheel, i don't have an easy way to cut the internal hole and drill the mounting ones precisely.
Unfortunately the weekend was mostly uneventful as I was focused on other things - which I'll post about soon, but maybe in another thread. I'm slowly grinding through the display software, as the temperatures outside have dropped again. I got an ability to show text now, which will be good for field testing, since it can just tell me if a fault occurs.
I also procured a large, 120mm thick PIR insulation foam panel. It's quite low density and easy to cut by hand, which to me is a plus - I cover them with a stiff layer of filler anyway. I'll use it to make the model for the new airbox which will house the controller and wiring.
On that note, I've realized I massively overbuilt the charging side of things. For some reason I missed that the cells only have 1.35A charge rate - that is just 27A for a 20p pack, and I was building everything for a 50A charger. Oh well, I guess I'll just put in a smaller fuse and leave it as is. I'm still not sure where to put the charge connector, as the plan is to make the airbox smaller and add panels on top of it. Clearly the panels would cover a charging port in an airbox... I could put it on the front (hard to reach) or on the back (in front of mud from the tyre), or the top (requires taking seat off to charge). Yeah, none of those options are great, so I'll just have to figure it out later.
As far as mechanicals go, I need to mount the motor to the mounts with all bolts fully tightened, put it in the frame and I can start assembling things otherwise.
AFAIK the roller sizes are different, even if the pitch and width are the same, so the ASA isn't directly swappable for the other, if you already have a sprocket or chain for one or the other. If you mix and match, the rollers for one won't make full contact on hte sprocket for the other, so everything wears faster.
The ASA stuff has smaller rollers and pins, so probably takes less to wear / break it in general.
You should verify this before taking my word for it, as that's from some research I did a while back, and I might not be remembering it all correctly.
EDIT: this is my saved bookmark for one source of that info
will a #40 clutch and chain work on #428 rear sprocket?
so today I bought a suzuki lt125 roller for 20 bucks. has a 6.5 briggs motor mounted and runs good. searching to see if using a #40 clutch and chain would work with the originally #428 rear sprocket. thanks in advance!:wai:
www.diygokarts.com
gustavo88py
1 W
I'm using 3000km
Chain asa40
65t asa40
14t 428
I will write back in a few months about my experience, how many kilometers the 3 pieces last.
Chain asa40
65t asa40
14t 428
I will write back in a few months about my experience, how many kilometers the 3 pieces last.
I can finally share this sub-project. I really didn't like how the lever from the LHRB pump from Aliexpress felt, so I made a new one from forged carbon fiber. The process is relatively straightforward, if finnicky at places, but I'm really happy about the result. The new lever feels nice, especially out in a colder weather, since CF doesn't conduct heat from fingers nearly as much. I'll likely make another one for the front brake to match. Total weigth savings weren't huge, but percentage-wise it cuts about 40% from the aluminium one, while theoretically being stronger.
j bjork
1 MW
You know this is not where you just show pictures and say "I built this" (there are facebook and other places for that) This is where you show HOW you built it
Haha, certainly. I just didn't want to spam this thread too much, as it's a bit of a tangential process. In any case, I remain open to any questions, and here's a few pics from the process:You know this is not where you just show pictures and say "I built this" (there are facebook and other places for that) This is where you show HOW you built it
I followed the Easy Composites tutorial by the book. Did the example lever first then modeled my own as a copy and modeled a form over it. The moulds were printed in PETG but with lower infill than recommended to save material - iirc 4 walls, 40%.
I'm still having problems with mould release. I've tried paste wax, liquid wax and PVA. Going to buy and try RW4 next.
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I've broken a fair share of aluminium levers. A common item on our enduro workshop was a metal file to secure the ends after such event, to make the sharp aluminium safe to handle. I think it's gonna be fine
Also, in static tests it should be stronger by a few dozen % over the metal equivalent. I've added 30% of continuous 6K tow running the entire length of it to make it stiffer and stronger.
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