.

[lcyn]

that battery

hello total noob here looking for a somewhat LIGHTWEIGHT build. picked out a hub and battery was wondering if they would work together...

hub
http://elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2011-1G-K59E.3DNJU

battery
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeWalt-DC9360R-H-Duty-36V-NANO-Battery-Pack-WARRANTY-/180790716773?pt=US_Power_Tools_Batteries_Chargers&hash=item2a17f76965

will they work? if so, critique?

also need LIGHTWEIGHT and minimal reccomendations for a controller and throttle and maybe those brake levers thatll cut off the motor?

forgetting anything?

my commute is 5 miles, all flat, can pedal here and there just want a nice boost, lightness trumps speed but still want to be able to coast for long periods if possible. thanks!!

You link to a hub only. Why not buy a full 350W kit from E-bikekit,com , or from cellman? That way you will have the proper controller and throttle. Also, that battery is most likely only a few AH, so you would require multiple batteries. I am sure many here could give you good advice on what to buy, but you will need to be specific. How much do you want to spend?

 

[neptronix]

cell_man 350w geared hub kit ( aka ebikekit geared motor / ampedbikes geared motor ) on 10-12S RC Lipo, or a 48v allcell pack, if you have money to burn.

That is the lightest setup i can envision. 250w is too weak of power to even justify spending money on.

 

[el_walto]

Buy from a repitable seller. Cell_man, e-bikekit, or grin (ebikes.ca). Don't buy random parts from random sites and ebay.

You are looking for what is known as a geared hub motor. With your short 5miles of flat, you may be able to get away with a 5Ah 48V battery pack and a less than 25 amp controller.

For a newbie that need to not go far on flat i'd suggest this battery.
http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-8/lifepo4-lithium-phosphate-iron/Detail

An ebike build is going to cost you atleast $500 for the kit. Most people will actually pay more than $500 for batteries and chargers.

 

[dogman dan]

That battery will work, but it will be taking a beating if used all by itself. At one point, before the battery situation improved, you saw people using tool packs. But never just a single pack. You'd have range so short it's not worth it, and the pack would die early. Back then you tended to see people running at least 4 packs in paralell to get capacity closer to 10 ah.

An unlaced motor is very cheap, but then you need to get the wheel built, and then find a controller and throttle.

Go to the emissions free website, or some similar dealer that sells the whole kit. If we know what country you are in, we might get more specific who to buy from. Emissions free is the most trusted vendor that ships from china.

We need more data about how far you want to go, before we can recomend a battery. Cellmans A123 batteries are slightly pricy, but they are the best lifepo4 on the market today.

Lipo works great for lightweight setups. But there are some hazards for charging it that must be paid attention to. Lifepo4 is safer for charging at work, or in apartments, etc.

Another safer chemistry is Limn. You see it used often in batteries shaped like an oversize water bottle. This type is as small as lipo, but safer. About 25-30% smaller and lighter than lifepo4 typicaly is.

You will need aproximately .75 ah to go one mile, but best to use the rule of thumb 1 ah per mile so you allow for less than 100% discharges each trip. 100% is more damaging to the battery than 70--80 % discharged.

 

[dogman dan]

Well, wheel building ability is something we don't usually see in a first build new guy. That changes a lot, clearly you know bikes.

In that case, you might investigate this, or one of the new versions.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=32035

Then look at lipo batteries, since you sound smart enough to do it safe.

At 180w you will get a lot more range, but at 10-15 mph. Electric watts is not quite the same as crank watts. A lot of the power is lost into heat, in the controller, the wiring, and the motor. I'll assume you want to cruise at 20 mph at least. That takes 300-400w no pedaling. Chances are, you can pedal enough to maintian 20 mph using about 200w if you are pretty fit. It would ammount to about 100w of real assist that reaches the road.

Again, 1 ah of 36v per mile incuded a nice reserve that makes your battery last longer. More cycles if you don't hammer it every ride to 100% discharged.

I think you should look for something no less than 300 w. ( 200w might be the law, but screw em).

Range is a slippery subject. Range in fact = how far you are in the mood to pedal an ebike with the motor off, hauling the weight. Part of why the Keppler friction drives work well is they don't put weight on the wheel hub, and when disengaged, cause no drag whatsoever. Perfect for a pedaler that just wants help up that one hill.

 

[dogman dan]

More info helps. 5 miles of stop and go might be easier to do with the gearmotors. But bear in mind, even with a rear hub, the bike will never feel light again, once you put 7 pounds on the wheel. The gearmotor will likely be easier to switch back and forth from pedaling to pedaling with motor. But the internal freewheels simply do not coast like a good cassete does. But it will still be pretty light by ebike standards. About 14-15 pounds for the whole wheel, including the heavy thick spokes, tire and tube. Then about 5-10 pounds of battery for the round trip. 5 pounds if you use the motor just to get going each stoplight. I'd go 350 watt for sure. 250w of assist is nothing. Like I said, some of it just makes heat, some of it goes to just carry the added weight. The remainder is what you actually feel, so start out with more for sure.

The friction drive approach seems to me to be more suited to the long distance pedaler. The guy who wants help for just 3 steep uphill miles of a 30 mile ride. So most of the distance it's raised and the bike rides and balances a lot more normal.

You are more concerned with weight than you should be. But in NYC, stealth is very important so a small light hubmotor that hides behind the gears is good. Once most of us ride an ebike for a short time, we start heading towards more power to carry the weight. We start heading towards comfy full suspension, and just carry 1000w power so they travel at least 25 mph. The bike ends up weighing 70-90 pounds but who cares if the battery is big enough to last the whole ride. You still get to pedal as hard as you like, till you get past 30 mph.

 

[el_walto]

If your dead set on making it light your best option will be LiPo batteries from Hobbyking.

2 of these packs in series would be your absolute minimum battery for your needs, problem being is you will probably want to carry the weight of charger/power supply with you to charge up wherever you go. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6499

You would end up with a
42Vish 5Ah Battery Pack. 1.378Kg

Here is a full light weight, low power kit:
http://www.emissions-free.com/catalog/i16.html
4Kg or so with controller i think

Nice Charger
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6609
749g

Power Supply for charger:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6256
335g
This power supply might be too small, depending on how fast you wan to charge packs

Keep in mind that there will be fairly high shipping charges on all these items.