Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

More speed locks on the way in the new firmware:

v1-RC9d

- Charge: Fixed a bug that caused a failure of the controller, when battery charges continuously for more than 6-7 hours.
- In the unlocked firmware version increased the maximum speed (OVS) by 50% relative to the normal maximum speed of the motor. In the locked version remains the same - 25%.
- Speed ​​limit: at some settings in the profiles of the speed limit and speed ratio motor incorrectly counted the speed limit and could not respond to the throttle at all.
- On a very slow motors (ie, low KV) Controller could not Auto Detect and the motor did not spin up to maximum power. Fixed.


Flash back to 7c if you want raw power and speed.
 
Now iv about finished the battery balancing marathon, im just about to add in the pack voltages etc, so............

For correct operation of the controller, you need to specify the correct
parameters for your battery, namely:
- maximum allowable battery voltage (HV cutoff)
- minimum allowable low voltage cutoff (Dischg cutoff)
- battery capacity ampere-hours (Battery AH)
- battery capacity in watt-hours (Battery WH)


So fully charged am I right in thinking :
cell pack whole brick
4.2 25.2 75.6

and discharged :
cell pack whole brick
3.5 21 63

Also how do I work out the amp hour and watt hour ?.

The packs are setup as 3x groups of 4 packs in series, each group has 4x packs of 20c constant 30c max 5000mah 22.2v 6s
 
So you have 18s and 3pcs 5Ah(15Ah) packs in parallel right?

18s nominal voltage is 3,7x18=66.6V
66.6V x your 15Ah capacity gives you 999Wh of energy.

I would suggest to set the values a bit lower( you always get lower values in the real world), and than increase when you know you pack better.
So:
- battery capacity ampere-hours (Battery AH) ~14Ah
and
- battery capacity in watt-hours (Battery WH) ~932Wh
to start with and see how it goes.
 
With the new firmware has anyone had issues setting the battery capacity correctly? For some reason, under Battery Setup menu the controller will only let me increase my specified Ah. Pressing or holding the left arrow won't let me decrease the value. I could have sworn the first time I set this it let me adjust both ways.
 
Yes that sounds about right :) , why do they say 3.7volts when the fully charged voltage is 4.2 v ?.
 
Allex said:
bjamin: you have to do one "reset statistics and set full charge", after that you can adjust Battery Ah
Click to expand...

That did the trick - thanks Allex. My capacity units now are Ahh, as opposed to Ah. Is that just a glitch?
The odd thing is if I increase the capacity beyond 99.99, the decimal point stays the same and I just get to adjust the 100ths place instead of 10ths. For example, it would go 99.7, 99.8, 99.9, and then 10.01, 10.02, 10.03, and so on.

photo (1).JPG
 
Hopefully, no one has a battery capacity over 99.9Ah! :lol:

I resolved my issue with the regen, I had the "HV cutoff" set too low. Didn't understand the meaning of the value until I read the manual again, I kept skipping over it! I figured it was one of my settings haha!
 
So I have balanced all my packs up to 4.2 volts, I went for a ride today and all of the packs are now on 3.9 volts, does this mean that with a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts if I plug in the BMS now and try and charge all of the packs the bms will think the packs are overcharged and wont charge them back up to 4.2 volts because the nominal voltage is set to 3.7 ?.
 
crea2k said:
So I have balanced all my packs up to 4.2 volts, I went for a ride today and all of the packs are now on 3.9 volts, does this mean that with a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts if I plug in the BMS now and try and charge all of the packs the bms will think the packs are overcharged and wont charge them back up to 4.2 volts because the nominal voltage is set to 3.7 ?.
Click to expand...
forget about nominal voltage. it's only confusing. get to know your cell voltages. (you have no business using lipo unless you understand what you're dealing with, imo - nothing personal.)

4.3 is dangerously overcharged. don't let your cells get anywhere near this number
4.2V is fully charged, but even high by ebiker standards.
4.16 or 4.17V is the max voltage most allow our lipos to get. they live longer that way, and IF one cell is to get wildly out of balance and you charge them all up, there's room at the top for it to stay below 4.2V...
3.9V is about the voltage that the cells drops to after the first head charge is used up, so like after .5ah for a 10Ah pack.
3.9-3.7V the cell voltage as the pack discharges 90% of it's capacity.
3.85V is the storage voltage that cells are set to when shipped
3.6V the minimum voltage you should allow a cell to get to, as after this they go over the cliff!
3.3V you're ruining your pack, you bonehead, stop drawing power.
2.8V the point of no return. you're playing russian roulette with cells that have reached this low.

and here's the first image that came up when i googled lipo discharge curve, but note that it's like for one 5Ah cell:
tp-5000mah-pro-power-40c-cell-discharge-curve-graph.jpg


the different lines represent the voltage under different loads, where for example 7C is 7X the capacity of your pack, so for a a 5Ah pack, that's 35A load, or for a 10Ah pack, that's 70A...

i highly recommend you start searching the forum for issues you have questions on, as general battery questions are covered all over here.
 
At present iv just been using 3 separate balance chargers and charging all 12 packs individually that way, the only problem is that is takes aggggges as I can only charge 3 packs at one time, although on the plus side I can balance every cell up to 4.2 bang on the nose for every cell without risking overcharging anything. Il try bulk charging them with the BMS to 4.15 then and see how that goes, I can always use the balance chargers afterwards on each pack to make sure they are all 100% in balance after charging.
 
i use a bulk charger ALL the time. i have it on a timer set to start charging at 5AM, 2hrs before my morning commute. the main charge finishes in 30 min, but then it balances for the rest of the time.

i have the BMS set to start balancing when the cells reach ~4.15V, as far as i can remember...

bulk charge!
 
Allex said:
So you have 18s and 3pcs 5Ah(15Ah) packs in parallel right?

18s nominal voltage is 3,7x18=66.6V
66.6V x your 15Ah capacity gives you 999Wh of energy.

I would suggest to set the values a bit lower( you always get lower values in the real world), and than increase when you know you pack better.
So:
- battery capacity ampere-hours (Battery AH) ~14Ah
and
- battery capacity in watt-hours (Battery WH) ~932Wh
to start with and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

No I have 4 packs in parallel in 3 groups, so I presume that 20ah then ?.
 
bms.jpg

Ok, this bit seems to set itself automatically, as I cant change the values downwards, only upwards from what they are now ?.
 
bms2.jpg

The odd thing is that the mileage shows that I can do 641 miles with the current voltage, so not sure whats going on there ?.
 
Ok iv got the BMS plugged in now and it seems to be alive and working with no big flashes or sparks so allllll good !. Just looking at the Charge settings and there is charge current and charge supply, both are currently set to 10amps .

Iv got an HP ESP120 power supply, which is 48 volts I think, im not 100 % what amps it gives out though, so will have to do some digging, but am I right in thinking that the charge current is how much current is being sent to the battery to charge it and charge supply is how much is coming out of the power supply ?, also is the charge current going to be maxed out at 5 amps as all of these packs are 5000mah ? 20c / 30c peak.
 
According to this video its 52v 3000w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_Qde8wz9wg
 
Allex said:
More speed locks on the way in the new firmware:

v1-RC9d

- Charge: Fixed a bug that caused a failure of the controller, when battery charges continuously for more than 6-7 hours.
- In the unlocked firmware version increased the maximum speed (OVS) by 50% relative to the normal maximum speed of the motor. In the locked version remains the same - 25%.
- Speed ​​limit: at some settings in the profiles of the speed limit and speed ratio motor incorrectly counted the speed limit and could not respond to the throttle at all.
- On a very slow motors (ie, low KV) Controller could not Auto Detect and the motor did not spin up to maximum power. Fixed.


Flash back to 7c if you want raw power and speed.
Click to expand...

This explains why I can only go 50mph now and I used to hit 65mph on 7c... 40mph without field weakening. Interesting. I have mixed feelings. I really want it to stay awake if I have anti-theft on, I have a heavy recumbent tadpole so it's very useful for me, I can just lock it and walk away, but I also want that raw power and speed.... unlocked is tempting. Worse case they charge labor if something does go wrong...
 
xenodius said:
This explains why I can only go 50mph now and I used to hit 65mph on 7c... 40mph without field weakening. Interesting. I have mixed feelings. I really want it to stay awake if I have anti-theft on, I have a heavy recumbent tadpole so it's very useful for me, I can just lock it and walk away, but I also want that raw power and speed.... unlocked is tempting. Worse case they charge labor if something does go wrong...
Click to expand...

xenodius, do you remember what the speed limit was without field weakening (RC7 vs. a newer)?
i never tried RC7c because it has no support for NTC10k thermistor. In electrotransport.ru board they are saying RC7 firmware does put out more phase amps than the value set in power profiles. that would explain the better acceleration. as for the speed limit: 25% should be enough - except you want to do speed records down a steep hill. or not? :)

my suggestion: stay with the newest firmware you can get. As Allex mentioned you can improve acceleration a bit by changing the throttle limits or throttle curve
 
crea2k said:
Ok iv got the BMS plugged in now and it seems to be alive and working with no big flashes or sparks so allllll good !. Just looking at the Charge settings and there is charge current and charge supply, both are currently set to 10amps .

Iv got an HP ESP120 power supply, which is 48 volts I think, im not 100 % what amps it gives out though, so will have to do some digging, but am I right in thinking that the charge current is how much current is being sent to the battery to charge it and charge supply is how much is coming out of the power supply ?, also is the charge current going to be maxed out at 5 amps as all of these packs are 5000mah ? 20c / 30c peak.
Click to expand...

Supply current is how much your PSU can spit out
Charge current is how much current your controller will feed your battery with
Don't forget about Supply Vdrop in the same menu. you PSU will drop down under load, if it goes below the set value the controller will regulate this by lowering the charge current. So you have to see how much drop is OK for your PSU and set it accordingly

You can easily charge your packs wih 1C, so 5Amps per pack - you have 4 in parallel so this will be 20A charge current.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

EVGator
EEB Mid Drive Bike - Complete or Part out
Replies
3
Views
1,048
skeetab5780
skeetab5780
Tomblarom
Emerson/Vertiv R48-series CAN programming?
2 3 4
Replies
85
Views
7,206
dominik h
D
Tomblarom
Overview: best rectifiers for charging (voltage mod) - Eltek/Delta/Huawei/Emerson/Vertiv
Replies
5
Views
1,742
BH4SKM
B
H
16S 320A ANT BMS balancing question
Replies
6
Views
1,451
randysway
R
LewTwo
Giant Revive BBS02 Mid-Drive
2 3
Replies
50
Views
4,846
LewTwo
LewTwo
Back
Top