Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
GCinDC
100 MW
so you're using the coil or a separate bulk charger. i'm not sure about the coil operation, but think it charges up to your limits set.crea2k said:
i've set up mine w/ bulk charger as follows:
max: 4.2V (but this doesn't prevent the bulk charger from charging more - but it does prevent the coil/psu from charging more, i think.. whatever you set this too, will also show on the balancing screen as the top voltage on the graph)
min: 3.6V (whatever you set this too, will also show on the balancing screen as the bottom voltage on the graph)
balancing: 4.15 (when the cells reach this voltage during charge, they start balancing, and will continue to balance as long as the cells are above this voltage. if i charge at night, the balancing will go on all night, and will still be balancing in the morning - far too long, in my opinion, but the new BMS doesn't get as hot as my beta one did!)
critical: 3.3V
edit: to see balancing mode, just hit the right arrow till it displays from main menu..
Allex
100 MW
Did a run today, 84Volts at 150 DCAmps and 400A Phase = 12kW, so pretty much maxxed out with locked firmware.
All good!
Unlocked can do about 16-18kW without a sweat, but your Cromotor will!
All good!
Unlocked can do about 16-18kW without a sweat, but your Cromotor will!
Im not sure if my temp sensor is even setup right, its the one that ships with the motor, and reads 32 all the time until the motor gets warm. The thing is even when the motor is apparently 115 degrees the motor cover is only barely warm, I know aluminium doesn't hold heat very well, so I wouldn't expect it to be red hot, (I presume the cover is aluminium like the rest of the motor on the V3 ?).
anttipaa said:
can you tell us on what timing settings you have turned and what values you found out do fit better to your cromotor?
@ crea2k
as i remember i have read somewhere in the russia board NTC10k thermistor doesn't work very accurate with adaptto controller. like you mentioned if the controller does show 100°C the motor only is barely warm never hot. it goes pretty fast up to this temperature - of course during some abuse, but imho it should be not that hot like controller shows. I think i will swap it with the one shipped with the package.
Will this jb weld high heat be ok for gluing the thermister onto the coils ?, it says it can take 232 C continuous
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-High-Heat-Temperature-Resistant-Epoxy-Putty-/131196249814?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item1e8be7e6d6
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-High-Heat-Temperature-Resistant-Epoxy-Putty-/131196249814?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item1e8be7e6d6
we should try it out but it also could be the temp is shown correct with NTC10k. hopefully it will be lower with the better sensor.crea2k said:Ah ok thanks, mine works on the NTC10k setting so I presume that's what it is, looks like another motor strip down job, fun fun fun ! lol, will be the 3rd or 4th time it been in bits now.
sure it will work.crea2k said:
i have used Arctic Silver 2k thermal glue.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
GCinDC
100 MW
madin88 said:we should try it out but it also could be the temp is shown correct with NTC10k. hopefully it will be lower with the better sensor.crea2k said:Ah ok thanks
sure it will work.crea2k said:
i have used Arctic Silver 2k thermal glue.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
I think it may be wrong, as I was riding along today and all of a sudden it said it was 500 degrees C, now thats HOT ! lol
Allex
100 MW
Just use regular car gasket silicone they are good up to 300C or the one GC suggested.
Hm no Idea I would guess not so good as this controller is for Light e-bikes not motorcycles. But if you will be happy with output of around 16, then maybe OK.
Sure, the Temp spikes to 130 in a few minutes, So nothing you can use on a regular basis...Motor cover and stator/windings are totally different parts in th emotor and don't touch each other. So Covers can be 0C in the winter and stator temp above 100C. But you can be sure about one thing - if covers are untouchable then your windings are cooking
anttipaa said:
Hm no Idea I would guess not so good as this controller is for Light e-bikes not motorcycles. But if you will be happy with output of around 16, then maybe OK.
crea2k said:
Sure, the Temp spikes to 130 in a few minutes, So nothing you can use on a regular basis...Motor cover and stator/windings are totally different parts in th emotor and don't touch each other. So Covers can be 0C in the winter and stator temp above 100C. But you can be sure about one thing - if covers are untouchable then your windings are cooking
I have a problem with my controller now argh.....I just went to it as I have it on charge and it shows on the screen 'BMS Error' and its frozen, so I turn it off and back on again and disconnect the charger and coil and it boots up but nothing works, the buttons dont work and the throttle wont work. I have tried putting a card into the slot to re flash the firmware, but all it does it turn on and show the firmware, it never gets to the upgrade screen and just sticks on the firmware version. I have disconnected the BMS, disconnected the throttle and ebrake and rebooted it again and its still frozen on the main speed screen you see once its booted, none of the buttons work, iv also tried flashing it with everything unplugged and nothing happens, it just sticks on the firmware version screen , what the hells going on
Iv noticed in the manual it says "Important! When a charger is connected, do not press the throttle and
(or) the brakes. This may result in equipment damage." , the first time I charged it I unplugged the throttle, when I got back this time I forgot to unplug it, so the ebrake would have been on as it turns it on when my throttle reaches zero. All I know now is the whole thing is totally frozen and I cant seem to do anything with it.
(or) the brakes. This may result in equipment damage." , the first time I charged it I unplugged the throttle, when I got back this time I forgot to unplug it, so the ebrake would have been on as it turns it on when my throttle reaches zero. All I know now is the whole thing is totally frozen and I cant seem to do anything with it.
After stripping down the controller (thought I'd re grease the heatsink while I was at it) , checking a lot of the components, checking components on the screen and putting it all back together it now mysteriously works, so I'm really confused now. I just need to re install it all in the bike and check the bms still works then il be happy again as I was loosing the plot thinking that it was going to be a nightmare sending it back if I couldn't fix it. If I had to hazard a guess I'd say it may have been the ebrake being on that's caused it, so will have to either have to remember to disconnect the throttle / brake each charge or design a circuit to disconnect the throttle and ebrake cables when the charger is connected. What is confusing though is if pressing the throttle or brake when charging can damage something why on earth didn't they rig the throttle and ebrake inputs to a transistor that turns them off when it's in charging mode, I should be able to make something to do that with an pixaxe controller and mount inside the display box.
Allex
100 MW
They have this warning text but, when you charge, the controller disables the brakes and throttle by default, at least with the older firmwares, and should be the same with newer. So this should just be a prequation.
But what you really need to avoid is moving the motor while charging - this could be bad.
And to have e-brake enabled when you release the throttle seems very extreme. Many times it is better to coast down then use regen because it simply more economical and therefore better to enable it when you really need it instead.
BTW, CC stands for Constant-Current. When you do a full charge make a reset & set full charge - this will calibrate your info screen for the next charge.
But what you really need to avoid is moving the motor while charging - this could be bad.
And to have e-brake enabled when you release the throttle seems very extreme. Many times it is better to coast down then use regen because it simply more economical and therefore better to enable it when you really need it instead.
BTW, CC stands for Constant-Current. When you do a full charge make a reset & set full charge - this will calibrate your info screen for the next charge.
I plugged the bms back in and turned it on and it's frozen again, even when I turn it off and back on again, so hopefully being off all night might bring it back to life, otherwise it might be a faulty bms causing this.
By the way, you can still coast, as a have my throttle so it doesn't start at zero, but a small turn round, so if I back off the throttle, it stops accelerating but the micro switch doesn't click unless I go to zero, so I can control when it comes on.
By the way, you can still coast, as a have my throttle so it doesn't start at zero, but a small turn round, so if I back off the throttle, it stops accelerating but the micro switch doesn't click unless I go to zero, so I can control when it comes on.
crea2k said:
thats not good
i ask myself if it also can damage the controller if we do not charge with the coil through one of the phase wires.
I mean if we connect a real charger (which fit the battery) direct to battery + and controller - charging lead.
I always charge like this and i very like it. The percentage of soc will rise and if you have not the time for a full charge, the shown % soc will still be correct. If i have enough time for a full charge, i leave the controller off and connect charger - direct to battery (not through controller). later i set full charge manually in menu. I plan to install a switch in my electronic box where i can switch the charger socket between "direct to battery" and "through controller".
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