Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[litespeed]

So I was fine tuning my MaxE/QS205 and somehow now when I drive around all of a sudden the throttle doesn't work and it shows "charge" at the top of the screen. Nothing works until I turn the key off and restart the controller....then it repeats. I've searched ES but nothing comes up.....

I'm sure I'm just not using the right wording but I'm definitely stumped on this on.

Tom

 

[teslanv]

So I was fine tuning my MaxE/QS205 and somehow now when I drive around all of a sudden the throttle doesn't work and it shows "charge" at the top of the screen. Nothing works until I turn the key off and restart the controller....then it repeats. I've searched ES but nothing comes up.....

I'm sure I'm just not using the right wording but I'm definitely stumped on this on.

Tom

Same thing happening to mine.

It's a controller that just arrived from back from Adaptto after being repaired.

 

[Merlin]

i read the complete topic, but this problem i never read about.

did you have latest firmware installed?
what throttles do you use?
how did you wired them?

 

[Allex]

So I'm setting up my first Adaptto controller, and I ran across an initial set-up and testing issue that has managed to blow MOSFET's on two separate controllers (which I sent back to Adaptto for repair) and then on one of the repaired controllers yet again.

I'm pretty sure I have finally nailed down the root cause, and I wanted to share my profound idiocy with any other poor sap who may be so inclined to test as I do...

The issue (Blowing a MOSFET) arise when you have the following conditions:

1. Using a reed switch/standard ebrake lever (Non-variable regen set-up)
2. Forgetting to change the Regen Setting to "Smooth"
3. Subsequently testing the regen braking function on my test stand with the wheel in the air.

So what happens?...

Normally, (if "Smooth" regen brake function is not activated), the regen brake force is determined by a Hall effect signal (such as an HE throttle) to vary the voltage from +1.0V (Low braking force) to +4.2V (High braking force). However, due to how the "switch type" ebrake levers are wired, using a switch style ebrake lever will send a +5V signal back to the controller, effectively telling it "Brake Hard MFer!". Because that's exactly what my spinning MXUS 3K-Turbo motor did when I pulled on the ebrake lever. It slammed hard to a stop, and the controller ceased to work, showing now the "PROTECT" error when I turn the throttle. I know a FET is blown, because the motor wheel has a good amount of resistance when trying to turn it by hand, when the phases are connected to the controller.

For the record, I do this test frequently, with all the other controllers I build with, but since they are designed for standard switch ebrake signals, I have never had this issue come up before.

Perhaps Someone may want to add this to the list of "Don't be a dumb-ass and do this when setting up your controller" list on the user manual. Or maybe I should have RTFM more carefully.

Sorry, but this never happened to me before. I am the type of user that only use a momentarily on/off switch with Adaptto. I also dislike the smooth regen function so it is always ALL or nothing when I use e-brakes with my mxus3k and other motors. And I did setup quite a few bikes that way.

So that being said:
1. Using a reed switch/standard ebrake lever (Non-variable regen set-up) Works very good
2. Forgetting to change the Regen Setting to "Smooth" works with both settings
3. Subsequently testing the regen braking function on my test stand with the wheel in the air. no problem here either

 

[ridethelightning]

So I was fine tuning my MaxE/QS205 and somehow now when I drive around all of a sudden the throttle doesn't work and it shows "charge" at the top of the screen. Nothing works until I turn the key off and restart the controller....then it repeats. I've searched ES but nothing comes up.....

I'm sure I'm just not using the right wording but I'm definitely stumped on this on.

Tom

Same thing happening to mine.

It's a controller that just arrived from back from Adaptto after being repaired.

firmware upgrade sorted mine when this happened.

 

[ridethelightning]

Granny alert! :lol:
From a quick scan of your settings the most obvious things stopping you getting good acceleration are in your profile setting..
IbA: if you have 16ah mulistars and have a 16ah pack these are capable of a 4C discharge without breaking a sweat so turn this up to 64. If you are running two of the 16ah in parrallel as in 32ah pack then you could double the 64.
IpA: put this up to about 250
Acc:68, change this to ---

For stronger regen braking you also need to turn up the IprA , try 200, but seeing that you have regen enable OFF i am guessing you are not using regen.

There are other values that i would not be happy with having in my setup, but i do not have the time to go through them at present, such as angle corr at 17*

also try cranking the spd smooth up to 30000 or more :wink:

 

[litespeed]

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Tom

So I was fine tuning my MaxE/QS205 and somehow now when I drive around all of a sudden the throttle doesn't work and it shows "charge" at the top of the screen. Nothing works until I turn the key off and restart the controller....then it repeats. I've searched ES but nothing comes up.....

I'm sure I'm just not using the right wording but I'm definitely stumped on this on.

Tom

Same thing happening to mine.

It's a controller that just arrived from back from Adaptto after being repaired.

firmware upgrade sorted mine when this happened.

 

[brumbrum]

So I was fine tuning my MaxE/QS205 and somehow now when I drive around all of a sudden the throttle doesn't work and it shows "charge" at the top of the screen. Nothing works until I turn the key off and restart the controller....then it repeats. I've searched ES but nothing comes up.....

I'm sure I'm just not using the right wording but I'm definitely stumped on this on.

Tom

This happens to my friend, but only in the wet. The way he got around it was to switch the automatic charge setting to off. Cant remember the exact wording in the display, i will have to look it up.


Edited: just looked it up. Set the 'charge enable' to NO and see if that does the trick.

 

[Hedis]

So I'm setting up my first Adaptto controller, and I ran across an initial set-up and testing issue that has managed to blow MOSFET's on two separate controllers (which I sent back to Adaptto for repair) and then on one of the repaired controllers yet again.

I'm pretty sure I have finally nailed down the root cause, and I wanted to share my profound idiocy with any other poor sap who may be so inclined to test as I do...

The issue (Blowing a MOSFET) arise when you have the following conditions:

1. Using a reed switch/standard ebrake lever (Non-variable regen set-up)
2. Forgetting to change the Regen Setting to "Smooth"
3. Subsequently testing the regen braking function on my test stand with the wheel in the air.

So what happens?...

How's your battery config? Could it be very close to the controllers maximum voltage and regen raises the voltage to a level where the fets goes into smoke-mode?

 

[litespeed]

The firmware upgrade fixed me right up.

Thanks to RTL and ES!

Tom

So I was fine tuning my MaxE/QS205 and somehow now when I drive around all of a sudden the throttle doesn't work and it shows "charge" at the top of the screen. Nothing works until I turn the key off and restart the controller....then it repeats. I've searched ES but nothing comes up.....

I'm sure I'm just not using the right wording but I'm definitely stumped on this on.

Tom

This happens to my friend, but only in the wet. The way he got around it was to switch the automatic charge setting to off. Cant remember the exact wording in the display, i will have to look it up.


Edited: just looked it up. Set the 'charge enable' to NO and see if that does the trick.

 

[teslanv]

So I'm setting up my first Adaptto controller, and I ran across an initial set-up and testing issue that has managed to blow MOSFET's on two separate controllers (which I sent back to Adaptto for repair) and then on one of the repaired controllers yet again.

I'm pretty sure I have finally nailed down the root cause, and I wanted to share my profound idiocy with any other poor sap who may be so inclined to test as I do...

The issue (Blowing a MOSFET) arise when you have the following conditions:

1. Using a reed switch/standard ebrake lever (Non-variable regen set-up)
2. Forgetting to change the Regen Setting to "Smooth"
3. Subsequently testing the regen braking function on my test stand with the wheel in the air.

So what happens?...

How's your battery config? Could it be very close to the controllers maximum voltage and regen raises the voltage to a level where the fets goes into smoke-mode?

20S Lipo. 84V hot. Per Adaptto's recommended voltage for max power.

 

[Craigh85]

Installed the Max E today all went well until I cycled the controller off and on. The display locked itself into a flickering loop almost like consistent failed boot up attempts. Anyway updated firmware to latest via adaptto website and the fault has cleared. But now my domino throttle gives either nothing or everything. It won't go through auto detect or throttle calibrations. It worked perfectly before. So long story short where can I get a access to older firmware to try back track a little?

 

[korpin]

So I was fine tuning my MaxE/QS205 and somehow now when I drive around all of a sudden the throttle doesn't work and it shows "charge" at the top of the screen. Nothing works until I turn the key off and restart the controller....then it repeats. I've searched ES but nothing comes up.....

I'm sure I'm just not using the right wording but I'm definitely stumped on this on.

Tom

Same thing happening to mine.

It's a controller that just arrived from back from Adaptto after being repaired.

I had a similar problem with mine it would cut out but do not remember CHARGE coming up....it had something to do with angle correction i think it was the first adappto HPC programmed they were not familiar with it

 

[ridethelightning]

:lol: hpc...why does that not surprise me..?

 

[Jonboy]

Hi Guys, I went to use one of my bikes the other day which I haven't used for about 2 months. It was perfect when I powered it down back then but on startup now I get "BMS". I've checked the boards leds and the third board when balancing is not lighting up, in BMS setup, in board config "I Think It lists the boards i'm using and the voltages and for the third board it says Fail. I've checked all the connections and plugged the 3rd balance tap into my checker & all seems goo. Any ideas guys...

Cheers

Jon

 

[brumbrum]

Hi Guys, I went to use one of my bikes the other day which I haven't used for about 2 months. It was perfect when I powered it down back then but on startup now I get "BMS". I've checked the boards leds and the third board when balancing is not lighting up, in BMS setup, in board config "I Think It lists the boards i'm using and the voltages and for the third board it says Fail. I've checked all the connections and plugged the 3rd balance tap into my checker & all seems goo. Any ideas guys...

Cheers

Jon

Hi Jon, try bypassing the third bms board and using the sixth board instead. Turn off board 3 in the bms setup 'board config'. So use boards 1,2, (switch off board 3), 4,5 and and switch on board 6. If it shows fail on board six then it must be a faulty jst lead. I hope this helps.

 

[Jonboy]

Ill drop it down lol.. I did think of it but didn't lnow it was an option/possible within the hardware/firmware constraints

 

[brumbrum]

Ill drop it down lol.. I did think of it but didn't lnow it was an option/possible within the hardware/firmware constraints

Yeah, you can bypass/turn on and off the different bms boards. Bring the bike down here any time if needed. Happy to help any time.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hit 6KW on my Mini-E today:

I was pulling power wheelies and spinning the back wheel all over the place after swapping out my tired old 16S Life battery for 18S LiPo.

Then I set the battery limit to 80A and phase limit to 225 (previous was 70A, 200 phase), and it started cutting out with protect when I pull WOT fast. If I pull WOT slower it's fine. Checking the temps, everything seems fine and the controller fets were still under 35C.

Anyone know why it's going into Protect mode like that? I was able to pull over 100A when the voltage was lower.

Cheers

 

[Merlin]

is it ~80wh/km or 80wh/mile?

what wheel did you have? i wonder why you have that high watthour consumption

did you checked the temperature BEFORE it goes in Protect mode?
if i look on the Health Screen all time. i see the temps go fast up and down.

maybe it was hitting some temps to go in protect mode and when you check "later" the temps, they are lower.

 

[mudale222]

my adaptto max-e can't run even a 1 km with 100a battery and 200 phase... it's getting too hot.. wtf man
oooohhh and it's just got back from fixing... i'm so frustrated!!!!!
i did 2 autodetect and in both of them it's got hot fast... one/two hill climbing in 15c and cut power.
qs 205 v3 15.5kv
first: ang corr: +1.7, ang corr2: 0.00 ind timing 0462us, pwr timing:+0.51
second: ang corr: +2.7, ang corr2: 0.00 ind timing 0430us, pwr timing:+0.51

in 2 minutes of 3a, 10 degree up:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfO5UelvQxo

 

[Cowardlyduck]

is it ~80wh/km or 80wh/mile?

80wh/km

what wheel did you have? i wonder why you have that high watthour consumption

24"
That's what you get from blasting around a tight space in the backyard for a short period to test it out.

did you checked the temperature BEFORE it goes in Protect mode?
if i look on the Health Screen all time. i see the temps go fast up and down.

Yep, temps before were normal and low as I was only in the backyard.

maybe it was hitting some temps to go in protect mode and when you check "later" the temps, they are lower.

I tried to watch it as I accelerated to make sure this wasn't happening and could not see it exceed 40C, but it's a bit hard to watch when pulling that kind of power without going straight into a tree. :lol:

my adaptto max-e can't run even a 1 km with 100a battery and 200 phase... it's getting too hot.. wtf man
oooohhh and it's just got back from fixing... i'm so frustrated!!!!!

Sounds like a tuning issue. Try changing phases around and re-tuning.

The other thing I failed to mention about my issue is I haven't yet re-tuned for the higher voltage, so that could also be a factor. I'll play around with it a bit more and see what I come up with.

Cheers

 

[mudale222]

Where is the phased in the menu?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Where is the phased in the menu?

Change the wire combo physically. You might need to change the halls offset after this to make it work again, or just do another auto-detect.

Cheers

 

[mudale222]

Alright, i'll try it today and update, although i don't think it's will help since i already tried 2 diffrent auto-detects.
But changing the phase physically i didn't try.

*also, anybody know how to tune the temp sensor? i have the qs 205 v3 that in the data sheet say: "kty83/122", but when i put kty83 in the adaptto, it's about 15-20c higher.. (i didn't open the hub to switch temp sensor)

**also, is it normal that the controller profiles mode u can get to 190a??? because in there site it's said 140a....