Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[litespeed]

I have the QS 205 V3 and the KTY83 temp sensor is dead on for my ambient temperature. Maybe try the others and find where the ambient temp matches?

The reason it's 190 is because we have the 14 KW controllers......the old one was 10KW. This would be at 72 nominal voltage in theory.

Tom

 

[teslanv]

Anyway updated firmware to latest via adaptto website and the fault has cleared. But now my domino throttle gives either nothing or everything. It won't go through auto detect or throttle calibrations. It worked perfectly before. So long story short where can I get a access to older firmware to try back track a little?

Same story with my Midi-E.

I was having problems with the controller going into charge mode randomly, and so I updated the firmware to the May 31, 2016 version.

Still having issues with random charge mode, and now the added issue with the Domino throttle. Like Craigh85 says, it's all or nothing. I even tried re-mapping the throttle limits without any improvement to the issue.

Also when I press and release my ebrake levers (Non-HE Set-up, just a Normally Open ebrake Switch), the display will often stick on the brake and prevent the throttle from reengaging the motor.

 

[DasDouble]

Guys, I want to run my motorcycle LED Light, rear- and brake light, and my blinkers with my 74v, 16Ah LiPo Battery. What I need for using the lights is a 12vdc output. No idea how many amps these nice things are using. Is there any possibility to take some voltage from the controller? For example the throttle output?
Any idea?
Regards.

 

[scrambler]

Guys, I want to run my motorcycle LED Light, rear- and brake light, and my blinkers with my 74v, 16Ah LiPo Battery. What I need for using the lights is a 12vdc output. No idea how many amps these nice things are using. Is there any possibility to take some voltage from the controller? For example the throttle output?
Any idea?
Regards.

The Adaptto manual ( http://adaptto.com/MANUALS/Mini-Max-User-Manual-ENG.pdf ) section 2.2.10 mentions a DC-DC conversion output available from the controller.

I don't know how well that works, I think I do remember reading that you need to protect your device with a fuse if you use it, as in case of problem it could draw a lot of Watts and fry your connected components.

Or else, you would need an external DC-DC adaptor, may be something like this ( http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/685/ds_72vin-micro-family-709233.pdf )

I am curious to hear more from the experts here as this DC-DC conversion seems to be a recurring issue/question.

 

[DasDouble]

Yes, it really mentions the dcdc stuff in the controller and how to activate it in the "menue".. But at least on my controller, there is no "DC-DC Settings". Normally before you come to "Menue Password", on top of that there should be such dcdc setting stuff, but there is none.. Am I blind?

 

[scrambler]

Yes, it really mentions the dcdc stuff in the controller and how to activate it in the "menue".. But at least on my controller, there is no "DC-DC Settings". Normally before you come to "Menue Password", on top of that there should be such dcdc setting stuff, but there is none.. Am I blind?

It does mention "To use this option, you must be connected to the capacitor/charge coil output"
Is that where you are connected?

 

[DasDouble]

Ooohhh.. I didn't recognized the first sentence.. Thanks. But what do they mean with "you must be connected to the charging coil"? Do I understand that right, that I theoretically rhave to like plug the charging coil inside the charging plug, just like when charging my bike, but then just without any PSU on the yellow XT150 Adapter from the charging coil? I think last time I did that, I had destroyed my controller / put it into protect mode... :O 

 

[Hedis]

DC-DC mode isn't supposed to be used while riding the bike if I'm correct. (atleast not while using the motor. )

 

[Craigh85]

Anyway updated firmware to latest via adaptto website and the fault has cleared. But now my domino throttle gives either nothing or everything. It won't go through auto detect or throttle calibrations. It worked perfectly before. So long story short where can I get a access to older firmware to try back track a little?

Same story with my Midi-E.

I was having problems with the controller going into charge mode randomly, and so I updated the firmware to the May 31, 2016 version.

Still having issues with random charge mode, and now the added issue with the Domino throttle. Like Craigh85 says, it's all or nothing. I even tried re-mapping the throttle limits without any improvement to the issue.

Also when I press and release my ebrake levers (Non-HE Set-up, just a Normally Open ebrake Switch), the display will often stick on the brake and prevent the throttle from reengaging the motor.

Spoke to Oleg at adaptto. He sent me an earlier firmware version to try. He also mentioned putting a 100 ohm resistor between throttle 5v and ground, it has fixed the issue for others. I'm working away from home just now and unable to try yet. It's mentioned in the stealth owners thread if you have a quick search. Let me know if you find the solution.

Craig

 

[mudflap5]

I am trying to get a Mini to talk to the bms. The BMS is connected to a 20 S pack. When the bms is connected to the controller, it comes up with" BMS not communicating".

In the menu, the bms setting is set to "Yes", but when I go to the bms configuration menu, it gives the not communicating message.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[BeachRider2016]

Can adaptto take 12v32ah input for charging a 13s 54.6v pack?
12x32a=384w
384w/54.6v=max 7.0A charge

I wonder if my math is right and Adaptto can use it to charge at 7Ah max?

 

[GmagNeato]

Can adaptto take 12v32ah input for charging a 13s 54.6v pack?
12x32a=384w
384w/54.6v=max 7.0A charge

I wonder if my math is right and Adaptto can use it to charge at 7Ah max?

I think you mean Amps (current) when you say Ah (capacity) correct? Which charge coil do you have? The 30amp coil would work fine for 7 amps. But I don't think the adaptto likes less than 24v for charging.

If your charger can handle 32 amps, then you can go higher if your battery can handle it. You would need the 70amp charge coil to charge at greater than 20A IMPO. I can't say definitively that it won't charge at 12v (have not tested) but it wouldn't be ideal. Best bet would be two of those chargers connected together in series for 24v 32a (768w). However with this low voltage / high amperage, your connectors and wiring would most likely get pretty hot unless they were huge. The great thing with adaptto is that you can adjust the charge amps accordingly to suit your needs. If it's getting hot, lower the amps to a happy place

I have no idea what you're saying with 384w/54.6v=max 7.0 charge? If you're trying to determine the max charge rate of your pack you would need it's capacity in amp hours and what type of cells you're using.

 

[Merlin]

Anyone had an idea whats going on here with the Mosfet Temps?

Stock Firmware from new MIDI:

[youtube]K2GxEgNdy4Q[/youtube]


Firmware Update to latest G4:

[youtube]FlUgFACROAE[/youtube]

also the Hall Voltage flickers alot and i had an HALLS! Error on Startup.

 

[mudale222]

Anyone had an idea whats going on here with the Mosfet Temps?

Stock Firmware from new MIDI:

[youtube]K2GxEgNdy4Q[/youtube]


Firmware Update to latest G4:

[youtube]FlUgFACROAE[/youtube]

also the Hall Voltage flickers alot and i had an HALLS! Error on Startup.

Try maybe changing in the setting of the controller heat sensor type. In the new update of the MEX-E it's changed from kty83 to 84 automatic. Try change it and see if it's make more sense or not.

 

[Merlin]

It is the mosfet temperature. Not the external temp Probe from the motor.

 

[mudale222]

and? i'm talking about the controller temp sensor - the mofset sensor.
it's 2 separate setting in the menu.

 

[Merlin]

Let me know where it is?!
Thats new to me.

 

[Jestronix]

I'm hanging for Adaptto to launch a phone app, one that also pulls all history across. I'd rather run ca and opt for phone app version, be great if they do it.

 

[mudale222]

Let me know where it is?!
Thats new to me.

I believe it's in "calibration" -> int tsensor.

 

[calebleemcd]

After one of the hall wires got shorted to the phase wires my Adaptto Max-e has stopped detecting the halls signals.
The halls voltage is still 5v, and I have checked R113, it is fine.
When the hall sensors are disconnected there is 5v on 2 of the halls connector pins, and 0.6v on the other one.
When I connect a resistor between the broken input and 5v the controller detects it correctly.
So it appears that the pull up resistor inside the controller is blown.
Has anyone had this problem before?
Is there a physical pullup resistor on the pcb or is there weak pullups on the microconroller?

Thanks

 

[born49]

Hello guys,
I have question regarding the regen braking. I have Midi-E with MXUS 3000 V3. Everything works fine
I am using variable regen braking (not active !) and it has really nice stopping power at speeds
around 20-30 km.h-1, but at higher speeds > 40 km.h-1 stopping power is at first quite mild and
gradually gets stronger and stronger. Problem is, when you want to stop suddenly at high speed, it
is not possible by regen brake only - the lag before strong regen braking kicks-in is too large. Smoothing
of braking force is disabled within setup. Phase amps for regen are set to about 230A.

I suspect, that the problem is, that I set max battery amps for regen to 20 A (I have 3 x Multistar 16Ah in series).
When I am braking from lower speed, I see that about 18A is flowing back to battery and braking force is
very strong. When in higher speed, I see again about 18A is flowing back to battery, but this time, braking
force is negligible. Is this because to get strong braking force at high speed, it would generate too much
amps that will be above user limit for battery charging current ?

If so, do you think it is OK to set max charge amps for regen for example to 2C (which would be 32A for
my batteries). What values do you set (in term of Cs) in your setups ?

And finally, if it is not OK to stress battery during braking with currents above ~1C, is there anything
what I can do to get stronger braking force at high speeds ?

Also, I would like to note that of course regen is not my primary braking system. I just setup hydraulic
brakes & regen in such way, that most times I brake using regen (before hydraulic brakes kicks in)
and thus conserve brake pads.

Thanks !
Petr

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hi Petr, I've found that just like you can draw peak discharge amps from Lithium, you can safely push peak charge from regen.

I have a similar setup to you on my Fighter with 6 10AH Multistars in a 18S2P setup. I've got my regen set to about 50A, so 25A each and haven't seen any problems.
I do similar on my Recumbent which has 4 of the same batteries in a 12S2P setup, and also have a 50A regen limit. Those cells have over 50 cycles on them and haven't had any issues.

Part of the reason I think it's ok is because the charge is short, and you typically draw current again soon afterwards. I think I recall reading something about surface charge also mitigating any problems.

All that being said, I do think you might be causing some damage to the cells by doing this at higher amps and more often. So it's a balance of how long you want your cells to last vs how much you want stronger braking.
I don't expect to be using my cells much past 250 cycles in their current application, so I'm fine with a bit of degradation caused by regen.

Cheers

 

[born49]

Thanks a lot for your detailed reply ! I'll probably bump charging current little-bit up then

Cheers !

 

[Swe]

How about 18650 cells and high peak charge amps? I have Sanyo 3500mAh and they are about 1.5A charge current. A 7P would only give 10,5A. I have a variable regen (not tested yet) but guess I could just use a button with soo low current. Could you charge that pack with higher amps too? If so, how many seconds are we talking about?

 

[Offroader]

How about 18650 cells and high peak charge amps? I have Sanyo 3500mAh and they are about 1.5A charge current. A 7P would only give 10,5A. I have a variable regen (not tested yet) but guess I could just use a button with soo low current. Could you charge that pack with higher amps too? If so, how many seconds are we talking about?

Not worth charging the cell at higher amps if you can help it, just charge it longer. The reason is someone who did a test and charged the cells at a high rate had a really reduced cycle life on the cells.

I charge my Sanyo 3500 cells at about .5-.75 amps per cell, because I don't care if it takes 5 hours to charge or 2 hours. Even at these low charge rates my battery really heats up.

On the other hand I wouldn't worry about the regen voltage too much, because it is such a short amount of time it can't really be that harmful. I also find I can't get too high regen amps anyway, I'm lucky to get a peak of 20 amps regen.
If you were going down a huge mountain for 5-10 minutes then I would probably not regen much over the rated charge of the cell.