Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[broke]

Will the controller power on with only batt. And display plugged in cause I'm not getting anything on diplay.

 

[sn0wchyld]

Welcome!
If you have one with ON/off option, make sure that you connect those bare wires together to turn the controller. You only need the display connected to get it working.

Thanks, that's it

One more question: I have just read that regenerative breaking will also work with a hall
sensor mounted at the brake-lever... Is that true? If yes, I assume the description of the wiring diagram
is not correct as it says "brake button or speed sensor"..
I think it means "hall sensor" ??
If yes, could somebody post the correct wiring? I would prefer an adaptive breaking rather than
just "on off"..

And before I forget, can I use any PAS and/or Throttle ??

Thanks,
Joerg

any throttle, yes afaik.
correct wiring is pretty simple, you wire the 'brake throttle' in parallel with the regular throttle, just with the signal wire going to the brake rather than the throttle signal input.
IE

the controllers +5V goes to both throttles +5V wire (usually red).
The controllers ground goes to both throttles ground wires (usually black).
the controllers signal for the throttle goes to the trottle signal wire (odd one out from your throttle)
the controllers signal for the 'brake' throttle (same wire that the brake button goes to) goes to the brake signal wire (odd one out from your brake throttle)

hope that makes sense. pretty sure there's a schematic on the first page anyway.

 

[Bluefang]

Finally managed to tune my controller to run the high speed cromotor properly. Tuning it at the slow 15km/h for angle corr did not work for me, what i ended up having to do once i had a basic good tune is run the motor up at the speed where it starts to oscillate and then adjust the ang corr until it disappeared allowing higher speeds. Then once that was done I adjusted the Ind timing by keeping it up at 3/4 speed and adjusted until i had the lowest power consumption. So far tuning like that has worked really well for me.

Only issue is that I did all that tuning on the 7 firmware which does not support 2k thermometers so I updated to the latest firmware which changes the controller settings something crazy and i cannot get it to go back to normal with out going back to the 7 firmware. Does anyone have a copy of the earlier 9e firmware or similar?

 

[Motobikewheels]

Guessing that you will use it for your QS
This will sound a bit ironic but, yes you'll lose the warranty then.

Yep i will be using it on the QS

Can someone do me a favor and measure from the handlebar to the top of the display ?

I want to figure out a way to put a bar around it so if the bike ever tips over or i crash it wont get busted.

Maybe something like this

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I want to figure out a way to put a bar around it so if the bike ever tips over or i crash it wont get busted.

Maybe something like this

That's a great idea!
In my case, the curve and rise of my bars is just enough so that when I flip my bike upside-down the display is just (about 1mm) off the ground, but it was a concern for me at first.

Cheers

 

[ccmdr]

Just another +1 for the great warrenty/returns process for my Mini-E.

If only all companies were as quick and painless as the folk over at Adaptto.

Thanks again for your hard work and continued effort to supply this community with a great product!


@ Cowardlyduck

As for the bar mount protector, if you've room try mounting it to the handlebar stem. With a 100mm stem you can give the bars a flush appearance and a slighly more stealthy look. Plus night time riding doesn't illuminate your entire body giving away the electric eerie look, even with dim backlight settings.

 

[Motobikewheels]

I want to figure out a way to put a bar around it so if the bike ever tips over or i crash it wont get busted.

Maybe something like this

That's a great idea!
In my case, the curve and rise of my bars is just enough so that when I flip my bike upside-down the display is just (about 1mm) off the ground, but it was a concern for me at first.

Cheers

Do you happen to have a pic of your bars so i can get an idea of how much rise is needed ?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

@ Cowardlyduck

As for the bar mount protector, if you've room try mounting it to the handlebar stem. With a 100mm stem you can give the bars a flush appearance and a slighly more stealthy look. Plus night time riding doesn't illuminate your entire body giving away the electric eerie look, even with dim backlight settings.

I'm having trouble visualising what you mean. The mounts for the display will only mount to the handle bars due to the horizontal positioning. It would be great if you could rotate the mount 90 degrees to mount to the stem though.

Do you happen to have a pic of your bars so i can get an idea of how much rise is needed ?

Not with the display mounted. I'll try and remember to grab a photo when I get round to mounting it again in the next few weeks.

Cheers

 

[bigbore]

Guessing that you will use it for your QS
This will sound a bit ironic but, yes you'll lose the warranty then.

Yep i will be using it on the QS

Can someone do me a favor and measure from the handlebar to the top of the display ?

I want to figure out a way to put a bar around it so if the bike ever tips over or i crash it wont get busted.

For the same reason I thought of re positioning the display on the frame above the original CA position of my Bomber.

 

[ElectroRider]

what i ended up having to do once i had a basic good tune is run the motor up at the speed where it starts to oscillate and then adjust the ang corr until it disappeared allowing higher speeds. Then once that was done I adjusted the Ind timing by keeping it up at 3/4 speed and adjusted until i had the lowest power consumption. So far tuning like that has worked really well for me.

Thanks for sharing your method of tuning, it worked for me as well!

 

[madin88]

what i ended up having to do once i had a basic good tune is run the motor up at the speed where it starts to oscillate and then adjust the ang corr until it disappeared allowing higher speeds. Then once that was done I adjusted the Ind timing by keeping it up at 3/4 speed and adjusted until i had the lowest power consumption. So far tuning like that has worked really well for me.

Thanks for sharing your method of tuning, it worked for me as well!

what do you mean with "speed where the motor starts to oscillate"?
do you change throttle to speed mode to achieve 3/4 of max speed for adjusting ind timing or with speed (kmh) limit? With torque mode this is quite hard to achieve..

 

[ElectroRider]

All I did was turn the throttle until the motor reaches a speed where it starts to sound like it's misfiring and then adjust the angle setting until it goes away and runs smoothly.

 

[joe535]

Hi,

just for test purpose, I want to connect this http://www.ebike-solutions.com/de/shop/elektronikzubehoer/gasgriffe/ebs-daumengas-horizontal.html?gclid=CLGTsKSX3cgCFRESGwod_v8IQQ

to the Adaptto mini-E. Does someone know the pinout from the throttle-plug?
I cannot find any PDF

By the way, just opened the throttle and found 3 wires connected. Black, Red, Yellow...
So actually I would assum black = GND, red = +5V, yellow = signal-out...

Before I crash something, could anybody confirm?

Thanks,

Joerg

 

[Cowardlyduck]

joe535, that's usually how it works. If you have a multimeter try feeding the throttle 5V over the red/black and measure the yellow output to confirm, but it's a pretty safe bet.

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I finally got my Adaptto Mini-E back on my Fighter today and got everything hooked up. Autodetect seems to work ok, but it's obvious it needs further tuning.
I tried tuning it myself adjusting the hall angle correction, PWM, IND values till it was the smoothest/quietest. It seems ok and doesn't get too hot zipping around the backyard.
I'm not sure if it's my settings or not, but the acceleration is not great compared to my old Infineon controller set to the same battery/phase Amps. Even in boost mode it seems to pick up for a moment great, then I can feel it clamping down hard and I crawl. Is there a settings I'm overlooking that could cause that?

I felt a bit disappointed about the acceleration/torque, till I remembered the old traction control LS setting tweak. I set LS to 90A and LS speed to 60kph and that's muuuuuuch better.
Managed 4.2KW and it nearly managed to lift the front up a few times. With my cooling mods I'm not too worried about heat doing this, but I am unsure why it's so sluggish without the LS tweak.

Cheers

 

[Allex]

Normally you would want to set you phase amps higher than Infineon controllers to get some torque.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Normally you would want to set you phase amps higher than Infineon controllers to get some torque.

Thanks.
Yeah however even in boost mode with 63A battery and 163 phase it doesn't pull very hard after the first few meters. It's kind of like the clamping you feel from a CA when it's set to limit amps draw, or similar from an Infineon when you allow unlimited amps for the first 0.3 seconds or so.
My Infineon last had 50A battery and 150A phase set and pulled way harder than this.
The LS traction setting trick certainly makes it better though, but I feel like I shouldn't need to use it.

I also found when tuning that the angle correction and IND/PWM timing changed depending on the OVS I set. At OVS 0 my angle correction is <2° however at OVS 7 it needed >7°. The IND and PWM timing also needed to change slightly as well when the OVS was changed.
Is that normal?

Cheers

 

[Ohbse]

You sure you haven't set any acceleration limit on the boost profile? Mines hitting 6.7kw every day with some additional cooling for peace of mind, feels pretty good

 

[Cowardlyduck]

You sure you haven't set any acceleration limit on the boost profile? Mines hitting 6.7kw every day with some additional cooling for peace of mind, feels pretty good

Thanks for the help.
I'm pretty sure no acceleration limit is on....that is what the --- in boost mode indicates isn't it?

I'm guessing you set the LS trick to get 6.7kw. How many amps is that?

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Ok, just played around with the settings a bit more and think I've figured out at least one of the issues.
My battery setup had the LVC set at 40V. As my battery is a very old it sags bad so when I pull 90A it goes from 54V down to below 40V and then the LVC kicks in limiting power. This was the problem for Boost mode, and now after setting LVC to 37V it no longer 'clamps' power. I won't normally set it like this, but this is just for testing currently.

However I still seem to have problems in ECO and Normal modes. It will start accelerating nicely, then cut right back, then pull again nicely. It's weird, and definitely not normal.
Here are my current settings:

Can anyone see anything wrong there?


I also did a quick video of what it does in each mode. You'll have to look closely, but in Eco and normal modes it spins up to a lower speed, hesitates, then spins up again faster. I'm twisting the throttle fast all the way at the beginning.
It's more pronounced in Eco mode.
[youtube]S383PKuLZ1c[/youtube]
[youtube]Qi9Tuc5sRbc[/youtube]

Boost is the only mode that seems normal to me.
[youtube]X2Be_3oOyFE[/youtube]

I didn't take a photo, but my mode profiles currently has 15A set for Eco and 47 for Normal both of which I don't see the amps draw get anywhere near during spin up.

Sorry for the epic post.
Anyone got any idea's for what it could be?

Cheers

 

[Allex]

So where are your Profiles screen? We need to look at it.
PWR timing, experiment with it enter values 0,2-1,8 to get best acceleration during mid speed.

 

[Ohbse]

No trick here, the LS exploit tends to result in some weird surging behavior I found. I'm running unlocked firmware and an 85a limit on 82v to hit that power.

What firmware are you running? Apologies if you already mentioned it.

None of your settings look obviously incorrect. LVC makes sense for the behavior you were seeing.. Other thing to check is if you have the BMS what your cell level cutoffs are set to.

You really need to get a new battery though, that level of sag means you're hitting it pretty damn hard and it's probably getting pretty toasty and further shortening its remaining life. Not to mention the sweet spot for high power on a mini-e or any other controller with 100v FETs is about 80v/20s

 

[Mammalian04]

Hey guys. I keep having a problem with my BMS on bank 4 when charging my batteries.

The battery is 15 Hobbyking 4s2p 8400mah LiFe packs. I have them set up in 5 series and 3 parallel packs for 20s3p.

It charges all the cells evenly for most of the charge, and then towards the end of the charge, the bank 4 cells spike in voltage. In fact, I have seen it spike to 3.78v, which is more than my BMS set maximum (3.65v). I have attached photos of another charge and it is once again spiking (done this 4 times).

Do I have the following set up right? I thought I knew which voltages are supposed to be higher or lower for balancing to happen correctly but that may not be the case.

INDIVIDUAL CELL SCREEN
Maximum: 3.650v
Minimum: 2.500v
Balancing: 3.550v
Critical: 2.000v

BMS SCREEN
Low Voltage Cutoff: 50v (2.5v per cell)
High Voltage Cutoff: 73v (3.65v per cell)

Charge Screen
Charge Cutoff: 74.8v (3.74v per cell)
Supply Voltage Drop: 2.89v (I'm not sure how to determine what this should be for my 48v Meanwell charger)

Below are screenshots that I thought would be relevant.

CELLS BANKS 1,2, and 3


CELLS BANKS 4 and 5 - Bank 4 is spiking


Individual Cell Screen for the LiFE Battery Chemistry


BMS Setup Screen 1 - LV Cutoff
View attachment 6

BMS Setup Screen 2 - HV Cutoff
View attachment 5

Charge Setup Screen - Charge Cutoff


Charge Setup Screen - Voltage Drop

 

[ridethelightning]

iv also had a suspected issue with my bms.

every 4th cell in the cell monitor screen is spiked much higher then the rest.

they are all spiked evenly higher at roughly the same voltage, while all the rest stay fairly well balanced at the same voltage too.

im beginning to suspect there is a fault with the way the boards work, it just seems too unlikely to be a coincidence. total max difference is around 0.100v

balancing for long periods seems to show no improvements.

sag under load shows the same high/low relationship,so i think the cells are sagging pretty much evenly.

 

[Mammalian04]

Yes, the problem is that the battery can't get a full charge is the spiked cells get too high.

Right now, I unplugged the charge and I marrying to get the BMS to balance down from 3.62 to 3.39 where the rest of the cells are after tonight's charge. Then I will try plugging the charge back in at a low charge rate.

It's always something.... After this, I need to figure out what temp sensor is in my Cromotor v3 as it always says 32 degrees F, even when the motor is very hot to touch.