Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[drewjet]

I apologize in advance for not reading the whole thread. Maybe my question is already answered somewhere else...

Is anybody using the domino twist grip (5 kOhm Pot) in combination with the mini-E?

I used the the magura twist grip (also 5 kOhm) for a while and had big problems with jerking at full throttle. I tried several settings and could not find any solution for that. But when I changed to a cheap chinese throttle with hall effect sensor the jerking dissapeared and the "take off" of my motor became much better.

Regarding the grip itself and the max. angle at full throttle, the domino twist grip is my favourite but it has the same technology as magura grip. Will I suffer the same problems with the domino?

Did you find a solution to this? I am having the same issue.

 

[Allex]

Domino vs adaptto:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650&start=225#p1121567

 

[Hexa]

brooklands wrote:
I apologize in advance for not reading the whole thread. Maybe my question is already answered somewhere else...

Is anybody using the domino twist grip (5 kOhm Pot) in combination with the mini-E?

I used the the magura twist grip (also 5 kOhm) for a while and had big problems with jerking at full throttle. I tried several settings and could not find any solution for that. But when I changed to a cheap chinese throttle with hall effect sensor the jerking dissapeared and the "take off" of my motor became much better.

Regarding the grip itself and the max. angle at full throttle, the domino twist grip is my favourite but it has the same technology as magura grip. Will I suffer the same problems with the domino?


Did you find a solution to this? I am having the same issue.

Hey Guys,
I use the Domino with the Adaptto and it just works perfectly! Just look in the datasheet at the link Allex posted and you are good to go!

The connection has to be:
Blue: 5V
White: GND
Black: Sensor (Hall/Potenziometer)

 

[Hexa]

Hello everybody,
it took me a lot of days to read all 99 pages of this useful thread and i feel fully stuffed with lots of good infos!

I sadly noticed that my Problem isn´t solved here.
I have an Adaptto Mini-e controller and a powerfull "Big Block" Mid-Drive from Lightningrod.

Does anybody have this combination too? I can´t get my Motor running. I already tried the Autodetect, manual tuning and the different modes: sine and square wave. But none of the settings work
Everytime i start an autodetect the Motor runs very slowly. when the controller wants to accelerate in the end of the process the motor stops turning and after a couple seconds my controller says "autodetect sucessful" but the motor runs absolutely bad and slow.

The only way i get my combination working is to run it in sensorless mode.
For now this is not a big problem for me because the controller works good with my motor and i get good acceleration
The only Problem in this configuration for now is when i set my boost profile to an power of more than 1200W the Motor begins hardly to oscillate at 2/3 full speed.
The oscillation behaves like you fast rotate the throttle between 0 and 100%.

Any help would be very helpful guys!

 

[drew12345]

I read through entire thread about month ago. I remember someone recommending to not use these with high rpm motors but vaguely remember someone did get it successfully running. They had to manually enter values. Search through thread again. Hopefully that person can share what settings they used.

 

[Mammalian04]

Hello everybody,
it took me a lot of days to read all 99 pages of this useful thread and i feel fully stuffed with lots of good infos!

I sadly noticed that my Problem isn´t solved here.
I have an Adaptto Mini-e controller and a powerfull "Big Block" Mid-Drive from Lightningrod.

Does anybody have this combination too? I can´t get my Motor running. I already tried the Autodetect, manual tuning and the different modes: sine and square wave. But none of the settings work
Everytime i start an autodetect the Motor runs very slowly. when the controller wants to accelerate in the end of the process the motor stops turning and after a couple seconds my controller says "autodetect sucessful" but the motor runs absolutely bad and slow.

The only way i get my combination working is to run it in sensorless mode.
For now this is not a big problem for me because the controller works good with my motor and i get good acceleration
The only Problem in this configuration for now is when i set my boost profile to an power of more than 1200W the Motor begins hardly to oscillate at 2/3 full speed.
The oscillation behaves like you fast rotate the throttle between 0 and 100%.

Any help would be very helpful guys!

Hexa, I am interested in what you find out to. I have a 2 or 3 big blocks that I would rather run Adapttos with instead of the cycle analyst. Did you ask LightningRods if he know anyone running it?

Thanks for the heads up Drew.

 

[Willow]

Hello everybody,
it took me a lot of days to read all 99 pages of this useful thread and i feel fully stuffed with lots of good infos!

I sadly noticed that my Problem isn´t solved here.
I have an Adaptto Mini-e controller and a powerfull "Big Block" Mid-Drive from Lightningrod.

Does anybody have this combination too? I can´t get my Motor running. I already tried the Autodetect, manual tuning and the different modes: sine and square wave. But none of the settings work
Everytime i start an autodetect the Motor runs very slowly. when the controller wants to accelerate in the end of the process the motor stops turning and after a couple seconds my controller says "autodetect sucessful" but the motor runs absolutely bad and slow.

The only way i get my combination working is to run it in sensorless mode.
For now this is not a big problem for me because the controller works good with my motor and i get good acceleration
The only Problem in this configuration for now is when i set my boost profile to an power of more than 1200W the Motor begins hardly to oscillate at 2/3 full speed.
The oscillation behaves like you fast rotate the throttle between 0 and 100%.

Any help would be very helpful guys!

Check the hall sensors - sounds like you have a faulty one. Replacements are cheap and relatively easy to install.

 

[brooklands]

Did you find a solution to this? I am having the same issue.

No, I did not find a solution so far...apart from the hall sensor type throttle.

But the manufacturer of my mid drive kit (Torcman) told me that other customers are using the magura throttle as well without any problems. So it might be an individual error of my throttle.

At the moment I am waiting for a full grip twist throttle (cheap chinese stuff) with hall sensor to replace the half grip throttle I am using at the moment (which is a real pain in the a.. when you are used to full grips on motobikes). If I am not satisfied with the new one I will try the domino throttle next.

 

[lumenpdx]

So I've read up everything I can, but just wanted to confirm my charging solution...

I'd like to use 2x Mean Well HLG-240-24A chargers in series to feed my Adaptto (with the coil of course). I can tune these down to about 44v in series, which should be just below the bottom end of my 16s pack. I see that this is a popular setup for directly charging batteries and works well. And I see that people have had no problem using these CC/CV supplies for charging through Adaptto's as well. But I haven't found anyone using CC/CV in series to feed the Adaptto. It seems it should work fine. Can anyone confirm that?

 

[Hexa]

Hexa, I am interested in what you find out to. I have a 2 or 3 big blocks that I would rather run Adapttos with instead of the cycle analyst. Did you ask LightningRods if he know anyone running it?

Thanks for the heads up Drew.

I already wrote Lightningrod but he just said that he not have any ideas with an sine wave controller.
I wrote Oleg from adaptto too and he just said that the motor is not compatible :/

I read through entire thread about month ago. I remember someone recommending to not use these with high rpm motors but vaguely remember someone did get it successfully running. They had to manually enter values. Search through thread again. Hopefully that person can share what settings they used.

I can´t find it The only Mid-Drive on this thread working is an Torcman, i believe.

Check the hall sensors - sounds like you have a faulty one. Replacements are cheap and relatively easy to install.

I checked the hall sensors in the diagnostic screen of the Controller and they seems to work perfectly like they should.

Another question is:
Are the preferences set like Pwr Timing, SPD Smooth etc. get affected in the Mode Sensorless?

 

[drewjet]

I can´t find it The only Mid-Drive on this thread working is an Torcman, i believe.

Mine is in a Mid-drive. I am running a Transmagnetics motor. It is about a 60kv as I recall.

 

[madin88]

Mine is in a Mid-drive. I am running a Transmagnetics motor. It is about a 60kv as I recall.

nice. do you have a build thread about that bike? please tell us more

 

[sn0wchyld]

Hello everybody,
it took me a lot of days to read all 99 pages of this useful thread and i feel fully stuffed with lots of good infos!

I sadly noticed that my Problem isn´t solved here.
I have an Adaptto Mini-e controller and a powerfull "Big Block" Mid-Drive from Lightningrod.

Does anybody have this combination too? I can´t get my Motor running. I already tried the Autodetect, manual tuning and the different modes: sine and square wave. But none of the settings work
Everytime i start an autodetect the Motor runs very slowly. when the controller wants to accelerate in the end of the process the motor stops turning and after a couple seconds my controller says "autodetect sucessful" but the motor runs absolutely bad and slow.

The only way i get my combination working is to run it in sensorless mode.
For now this is not a big problem for me because the controller works good with my motor and i get good acceleration
The only Problem in this configuration for now is when i set my boost profile to an power of more than 1200W the Motor begins hardly to oscillate at 2/3 full speed.
The oscillation behaves like you fast rotate the throttle between 0 and 100%.

Any help would be very helpful guys!

I read through entire thread about month ago. I remember someone recommending to not use these with high rpm motors but vaguely remember someone did get it successfully running. They had to manually enter values. Search through thread again. Hopefully that person can share what settings they used.

My Maxi is running well with a revolt RV100pro (49kv) at 80v. It took a few goes through with the auto detect and then some manual tuning but it works fine now.

 

[drewjet]

Mine is in a Mid-drive. I am running a Transmagnetics motor. It is about a 60kv as I recall.

nice. do you have a build thread about that bike? please tell us more

Race Bike viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32486
I never updated it when changing to the adapto, But will show the bike.

 

[lumenpdx]

I'm trying to implement a 3-position key switch on my Adaptto-equipped bike. Essentially I want an off-accessory-ignition sort of setup. Closing the adaptto main switch is easy, but i'd need to pull some low voltage power to trigger the accessory relay. And ideally if the BMS goes into protection mode (voltage too low), the power to this circuit is cut. Is it safe to assume the 5v to the display and throttle/brake are cut when the main switch is off? If not that, perhaps from the BMS circuit (though I'd assume that stays powered even if the batt hits low voltage)? Anyone have the pinout for the BMS connector? Any other ideas?

 

[douglashart]

Hi guys, ive been working on a build now for 14 mos and im near to completion. Got the thing built and the motor and battery wired. I just need to get some sort of brake setup, however im almost without a clue, so I need some basic education . first question: I purchased the tektro dorado brakes. They are open when at rest and closed when applying the brakes. Can anyone tell me, is that the norm, or do some brakes open when depressed? second question: I don't have the PAS yet( maybe ill ship it back later) but for now I just want to get the bike up and running. Are the brake cutouts necessary if running w/o the PAS. any help thnx

 

[Mammalian04]

Hi guys, ive been working on a build now for 14 mos and im near to completion. Got the thing built and the motor and battery wired. I just need to get some sort of brake setup, however im almost without a clue, so I need some basic education . first question: I purchased the tektro dorado brakes. They are open when at rest and closed when applying the brakes. Can anyone tell me, is that the norm, or do some brakes open when depressed? second question: I don't have the PAS yet( maybe ill ship it back later) but for now I just want to get the bike up and running. Are the brake cutouts necessary if running w/o the PAS. any help thnx

Hi Doug, as long as you have some kind of switch accessible (e.g. Display on/off, circuit breaker, etc.), I say GO RIDE! I too was getting way bogged down with issues and my enjoyment went WAY up when I could ride during the day and then add "stuff" like regen wiring, tidying up cables, shortening excess wires etc. at night. I run without regen and cutoff on one of my bikes right now and I am not worried. Just make sure you wire in a kill switch for throttle or display or circuit breaker.

 

[douglashart]

Thnx M , im just waiting for paint to set up n hoping to be up and running within the week. Your absolutely right, im ready to ride and have ALOT to learn, so one thing at a time. That kill switch could be hooked inline with the power(5v) to the throttle???

 

[Mammalian04]

I suppose but I'd rather put the kill switch on the display. That also disables the throttle and is a better visual reference with it is off. If your Adaptto is not a very recent one, then it doesn't have the built in on/off. For my older ones, I followed Allex's instruction on splicing into the gray cable that goes from the display to the controller. Inside that cable sheathing is a red wire that I tied to a key switch but you could use a handlebar kill switch if you wanted. Search this thread for those instructions. Allex has instructions and photos but it is pretty simple, just carefully expose the inner wires inside the gray cables and then splice a cutoff into the red wire.

 

[lumenpdx]

Speaking of the kill switch, I'm already setting up with a pair of 60amp breakers right off the battery. Should an actual battery-disconnecting killswitch be needed, or can we trust that simply cutting the controller's power is good enough? Since I need to use a speed sensor, I won't be able to use an e-brake switch and I'm a little nervous about that...

 

[Mammalian04]

Yes, use both a switch for the display and the breakers for the main battery connection. They serve 2 different purposes. I am using 2 60 amp breakers in parallel also.lastly, if you install lights or other accessories, install a low amp online fuse for those separately (ask me how I know!).

 

[aaronski]

HI guys,

I'm a new Mini-e owner, trying to get the darn thing to work. I plugged in motor, hals, screen, throttle, and batteries- 45v. I get nothing on the screen. the diagram on their page shows a power on/off switch, but I don't see any wires for on/off?

there's a 4 wire PAS sensor, and a 4 wire BMS that are not plugged in, but I don't think I need them? there's also some thin gauge wires red/green coming out of the PAS sensor socket that are reading 45v, these are not documented anywhere that I can find.

Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

 

[Allex]

Hi,
Just connect red/green wires and the controller will turn on, dont forget to isolate them!

 

[Mammalian04]

On my new controllers with On/Off (I don't have PAS), these 2 wires are run through the switch (or just twist them together).

Then of course the positive and negative.

 

[aaronski]

tried green/red. they were hot at 45v. just blew about a half inch off the red wire. so, I'm guessing that's not the on/off. my controller doesnt have anything that looks like the on/off on your's.


I'll get a photo...