Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[madin88]

I personally don't want to incorporate my regen into my hand brakes because I do lots of woods riding and need the regular brake feedback or brake modulation. SO when doing really slow technical offroad riding I don't use the regen and rely on the regular brakes as this really allows fine controlling. But if you don't do stuff like that and mostly drive on the street then having the regen on the brake lever will work fine.

i share the same experience. a left thumb trottle works really well and feels comfortable. i like it how it is and do not feel the need of having e-brake also on the hydraulik brake lever, but i must say i never have tried it out. what i would like to have is a motor cut off function on the hydraulic levers (its important if you want to make your fast bike registered and legal). Adaptto should implement this in future controllers.

offroader, do you have a link to that thumb throttle?

 

[Mammalian04]

I personally don't want to incorporate my regen into my hand brakes because I do lots of woods riding and need the regular brake feedback or brake modulation. SO when doing really slow technical offroad riding I don't use the regen and rely on the regular brakes as this really allows fine controlling. But if you don't do stuff like that and mostly drive on the street then having the regen on the brake lever will work fine.

i share the same experience. a left thumb trottle works really well and feels comfortable. i like it how it is and do not feel the need of having e-brake also on the hydraulik brake lever, but i must say i never have tried it out. what i would like to have is a motor cut off function on the hydraulic levers (its important if you want to make your fast bike registered and legal). Adaptto should implement this in future controllers.

offroader, do you have a link to that thumb throttle?

I will soon be installing Tektro Augura brakes that have the brake switch. Can't Adaptto already be wire with brake handle "throttle cutoff" AND a regen thumb throttle at the same time?

 

[madin88]

I will soon be installing Tektro Augura brakes that have the brake switch. Can't Adaptto already be wire with brake handle "throttle cutoff" AND a regen thumb throttle at the same time?

yes, for instance if you have a normally closed switch in the brake lever. if you press the lever it than could open the throttle signal line and the motor cut off. there also may be other wiring options to achieve the same..
what i would like to have is a dedicated e-brake input aside from the variable e-brake, that can be configured extra in the program menu and display does show that on the main screen.
having an output (or a contact that closes) for brake light would be even more nice to have.
At the moment it takes lots of brainpower to figure out how to wire it up so that all works together.

 

[Mammalian04]

I will soon be installing Tektro Augura brakes that have the brake switch. Can't Adaptto already be wire with brake handle "throttle cutoff" AND a regen thumb throttle at the same time?

yes, for instance if you have a normally closed switch in the brake lever. if you press the lever it than could open the throttle signal line and the motor cut off. there also may be other wiring options to achieve the same..
what i would like to have is a dedicated e-brake input aside from the variable e-brake, that can be configured extra in the program menu and display does show that on the main screen.
having an output (or a contact that closes) for brake light would be even more nice to have.
At the moment it takes lots of brainpower to figure out how to wire it up so that all works together.

Agree 100% Madin. Supposedly, the high tech DC-DC converter that Adaptto has said is "coming soon" will do all of this. But it has been on their web site as coming soon for as long as I can remember!

On that subject, has anyone else notice the DC-DC output settings in the controller settings? Are those somehow functional right now? What could the output be? Through the charge coil output or something?

Adaptto, Alex, or Artur? Can any of you comment on this current function in the settings?

 

[Allex]

DC-DC is only valid in unlocked firmwares now. With it you can connect your water boiler through the charge coil or why not charge another bike.

 

[Mammalian04]

DC-DC is only valid in unlocked firmwares now. With it you can connect your water boiler through the charge coil or why not charge another bike.

Thanks Alex.
I presume you mean the phase wire connection and negative connections that the charge coil plugs into.
If so, can this be used while riding the bike?

My 2 older Max-Es are probably out of warranty in a couple months so this would be great to try. Especially with my charge ports now right below the key on my raptor, I could just create another plug in harness to use when accessories are needed.

 

[Jonboy]

Hi guys here's my setup just tacked with cyano to try it out before fit it proper... a few adjutments on the adaptto and its real nice transition between regen and mech braking. Got a real neat water proof push to break the signal line for the odd times I like to trail brake while giving it throttle... so far cool with this setup

 

[Offroader]

I personally don't want to incorporate my regen into my hand brakes because I do lots of woods riding and need the regular brake feedback or brake modulation. SO when doing really slow technical offroad riding I don't use the regen and rely on the regular brakes as this really allows fine controlling. But if you don't do stuff like that and mostly drive on the street then having the regen on the brake lever will work fine.

i share the same experience. a left thumb trottle works really well and feels comfortable. i like it how it is and do not feel the need of having e-brake also on the hydraulik brake lever, but i must say i never have tried it out. what i would like to have is a motor cut off function on the hydraulic levers (its important if you want to make your fast bike registered and legal). Adaptto should implement this in future controllers.

offroader, do you have a link to that thumb throttle?

I have not tried the regen on the brake lever either so I can't say 100% if i would like it or not. But it is so convienent to have brake access right near the thumb. I would say almost all of my braking is with the thumb throttle and regen. Before this I was going through brake pads very quickly, now it seems my brakes will last forever.

Here is the link for that thumb throttle. It just came out earlier this year, has great feel in my opinion although maybe a little more firm than your ordinary thumb throttle. I ordered 3 of these already with separate orders from Greentime, he is the same that sells those greentime controllers. Fast and reliable with everything he sells, and also he has the cheapest price.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-Design-36V-48V-Wuxing-106DX-e-bike-finger-throttle-both-way-thumb-gas-handle-with/313864_32262368549.html

 

[DasDouble]

I will soon be installing Tektro Augura brakes that have the brake switch. Can't Adaptto already be wire with brake handle "throttle cutoff" AND a regen thumb throttle at the same time?

Please tell us your feedback of the Augura brakes. Im interested in how good the work..

 

[ridethelightning]

has anyone experienced anything like this before?

YES, i was riding a bike with cromotor where all the magnets got loose. the motor worked well at low torque but at higher load the magnets alone spun.
i suspect you have the same problem.
IIRC that motor was laced with very large spokes (>4mm) into a motorcycle rim with high tension. maybe the iron ring got stretched and the magnets become loose due to this, but thats only a guess..
good luck!

@ cow duck
it should not matter if the halls are mounted on left or right side if you have the option. a correct mounted hall should be inserted in entirely into the slot and should round off with the stator surface.
if its below the surface or twisted it would be not good. i often have seen this on the middle hall of MXUS motors thats the one that is between two teeth..

ah ha!
that was the other thing that crossed my mind.
definately time to open sesame!

yes indeed!
the magnets were just holding on in there with their own magnetism.
the epoxy or whatever they had used had completely let go.

unfortunately, and predicatably enough, one of them flipped as i was removing them and broke :|
hopefully i can get some spares from stealth.

i realise this is headding o.t., but has anyone got some hints on how to reglue/replace magnets?

 

[Willow]

ti easy like Sunday morning yo. Use the high temp Epoxy... remove and replace magnet by magnet, rather than all at once.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

For a crude but effective throttle cut off/regen engagement I did this on my Commuter:

It might look dodgy, but it works....and has been working for over 4 months now. The great thing about these switches is you can easily adjust the point of engagement just by bending the metal arm.
More photo's and details here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=57751&start=150#p1072762

Currently the front brake on my Fighter doesn't cut the throttle as it has no hall sensor for Regen like the rear. I'm thinking about adding one as it would be nice to be able to brake both front rear (at customisable levels) with the one lever...although not sure how safe that is.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

ti easy like Sunday morning yo. Use the high temp Epoxy... remove and replace magnet by magnet, rather than all at once.

dang, thats really obvious now...
is gluing and re-using a split magnet feasable(in case i cant get spares) or is just destined for the bin?
oddly, the part that broke off is now repelled by its other half, so its difficult to fit it back together without a clamping force.

iv started a thread on this topic here-
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=74314&p=1121328#p1121328

 

[Willow]

...some heat sinking on the mini-E. stick-on type. Controller definitely running cooler, however the poor little thing does have to work very hard to lug such a heavy bike up the big hills. A midi-E would suit the application better... (hitting long steep hills) around town is just fine.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

That's awesome Willow.

Make sure your also adding some thermal padding underneath the Mini-E between that metal plate and the controller body.
Like this:

This is the stuff I used:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121310196991
I've found when my controller gets a little warm (it never gets hot) I can feel the underside of my bike frame warming with it....very effective.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

...some heat sinking on the mini-E. stick-on type. Controller definitely running cooler, however the poor little thing does have to work very hard to lug such a heavy bike up the big hills. A midi-E would suit the application better... (hitting long steep hills) around town is just fine.

wow thats cool!(no pun :lol: )

a wee little fan would definately be awesome in there now.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

a wee little fan would definately be awesome in there now.

I ripped mine off.
This was how I had mine setup:

But it was too loud for my liking.
Since ripping them off and adding a second heat-sink to the other side I've found I didn't really need them after all.
The flow of air over the heat-sinks from the bike moving is more than enough if you have the controller mounted externally I think. The fans would only make sense if you have the controller internally mounted and are able to pull in fresh air and dump out the hot air.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

im about to tackle this one myself shortly, with controller in the frame, im looking for a small, quiet, high volume fan, if there is such a thing.

i was going to mount it so it bows the hot air out, pulling in the fresh air.

best would be to actually have the controller in a draught tube with the fan blowing air over it,then out, but perhaps a little tricky to set up.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Well those fans above are pretty decent for there size at 25x25mm and 5.13CFM.
http://www.rcmart.com/rc-yeah-racing-ya0201-tornado-high-speed-25x25mm-p-29521.html

I have 12 mounted inside my motor for cooling and they work quite well there...and aren't so loud since they are partially enclosed.

Cheers

 

[Allex]

I would remove the controller case and screw that alu heatspreader that holds the fets directly to the frame, this way you probably dont need to have a cooler inside.

picture

 

[Wheazel]

I have put my cargobike away for the winter and it had about 30% charge when I did.
The pack is 4kWh+

Is the bms active and slowly draining the battery even if the masterswitch is turned off, or only when the controller is active either by running or charging?

** What i refer to as a masterswitch is an apartmentbreaker on the main +wire from the battery.

 

[Willow]

I would remove the controller case and screw that alu heatspreader that holds the fets directly to the frame, this way you probably dont need to have a cooler inside.

picture

This would be perfect.

I don't think the engineer would let me get away with it though - they like to see things sealed, and there is a (small) chance that water may drip inside the tank.

I'll do it differently next time. Mount the controller horizontally under a form for drip protection and affix it directly to a heat sink.

 

[macribs]

I would remove the controller case and screw that alu heatspreader that holds the fets directly to the frame, this way you probably dont need to have a cooler inside.

picture

This would be perfect.

I don't think the engineer would let me get away with it though - they like to see things sealed, and there is a (small) chance that water may drip inside the tank.

I'll do it differently next time. Mount the controller horizontally under a form for drip protection and affix it directly to a heat sink.

Look at how madin88 did mount his controller, mounted the controller to a large heat sink. As you can see the controller is still shielded inside the frame. But the large heat sink will get more air colling because of wind from speed.

 

[ridethelightning]

any room to hang this type of sink under the side of the tank? bolts through to the controller inside...

 

[Willow]

....such minimal space to spare. Though a slightly larger controller would probably fit (Midi)... though the new Mini-E is 4KW, and this would be enough to get over the heating hurdle.

weighed the bike this morning - 70kg. and a lot of rolling resistance from the Moto tyres. It's a motorcycle. More power would be good, but would put it in the next class of vehicle with regards to the standards - then you might as well make it 20KW.

Just got back from the Engineer - who's only issue was the fact (for a motorcycle) that the vertical distance between the top of the seat to the underside of the handlebars needs to be a minimum of 250mm (so you don't get your knee stuck under the bars when your tuning)... geometry of the bike will certainly not let this happen though.... so he has to make the call to say it's acceptable (rather than being a direct compliance to the ADR)