Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ridethelightning]

...Maybe a phase wire issue??

I did my first run to Taroona today... and first time I've managed to keep the controller under 60 degrees. Still tuning, but pretty much there. Very heavy bike for the little controller - 55km/h is cruising speed with OVS at zero.

replaced the old style coil with the round one - old one was getting crazy hot at even 1000W

im thinking that it could be a phase wire, but a short across them would have a very drastic effect so probably not that.
perhaps its time to pop the bonnet and have a look in there...

what charging current were you pumping?

the mini-e will run a heavy bike but is not totally comfortable doing it. it just gets warm so fast, not enough fets to share the load.
a cooling fin with a small fan would make a big difference.

 

[ridethelightning]

has anyone experienced anything like this before?

YES, i was riding a bike with cromotor where all the magnets got loose. the motor worked well at low torque but at higher load the magnets alone spun.
i suspect you have the same problem.
IIRC that motor was laced with very large spokes (>4mm) into a motorcycle rim with high tension. maybe the iron ring got stretched and the magnets become loose due to this, but thats only a guess..
good luck!

@ cow duck
it should not matter if the halls are mounted on left or right side if you have the option. a correct mounted hall should be inserted in entirely into the slot and should round off with the stator surface.
if its below the surface or twisted it would be not good. i often have seen this on the middle hall of MXUS motors thats the one that is between two teeth..

ah ha!
that was the other thing that crossed my mind.
definately time to open sesame!

 

[Artur]

I have another problem. One of my bike with max and QS motor consume around 31-33wh/km.. on 45-50km/h speed, and getting hot to 90-95 degree C. I use different Angle, Timming, and PWR, but no result.. :?
On another bike with simillar settings I have 20-24wh/km with same smeed, but the mottor is cooler.

Maby I gorgot something?? 31-33wh/km is too much, right?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

@ cow duck
it should not matter if the halls are mounted on left or right side if you have the option. a correct mounted hall should be inserted in entirely into the slot and should round off with the stator surface.<br abp="828">if its below the surface or twisted it would be not good. i often have seen this on the middle hall of MXUS motors thats the one that is between two teeth..

Thanks madin.
I took it for a spin on the weekend and played with the tuning some more.
I found that if I set the Ind timing higher, Hall angle more negative and PWR timing slightly higher, it would still run smooth, however very strangely it seemed to ignore my amp limit's set on my profiles when I did this. It would also heat the motor faster/more, and occasionally pulsate at higher speeds, so obviously not the ideal settings.
Conversely, if I lowered Ind timing, Hall angle closer to 0 and PWR less than 1.4, things ran smooth, and amps draw more closely limited to what my profiles are set to. The motor ran cooler, and smoother, however acceleration was less and top speed lower.

It seems I just have to find the right point where it doesn't get hot, runs smooth, but also gives satisfactory acceleration.

On another note, I found that the Mini-E/Leaf motor combo I'm running works really well in steep/tough off-road conditions with lots of logs and large rocks to ride over. I was riding UP a walking track at one point which was ridiculously steep with steps made from logs angled across the path every few meters. My old HS40/Infineon combo would have definitely stalled out so I was pleasantly surprised to fine the Adaptto handled it without any issues.
I ripped the fans of my heat-sink also now as they were too noisy out in the open and the heat-sinks (I added one to the other side also) and thermal pad to the frame do more than enough to keep it cool.

I was also very glad I mounted my old mud guard to the frame just in front of the controller to protect it. I rode through many streams/creaks, and large puddles without any issues at all, and the controller barely got splashed....can't say the same for me however.

Cheers

 

[icherouveim]

Hello guys,

This is my first post,

I've decided to tell my story so the new Adaptto customers to be aware of what happened.

At the beginning I couldn't solder the (temp - hall sensors) connector because the new connector has 6 contacts instead of 7.
So I sent them an email and they told me there is a new connection diagram for the 6 pin connector at the support web site, (the manual is not updated).
When I've finished with the connections everything was OK, the auto detect function worked perfectly, I set everything up and I was very happy.

The next day I've decided to go out for a ride to test the ebike. I mounted the controller on the bicycle frame and I connected the small
ignition wires together in order to power the controller as I didn't have a switch yet (it is on the way to Cyprus).

When everything was ready by accident the small ignition wires short circuited with the body of the controller as they are so close together
and after this the controller is dead.

I don't think the damage is big but the point is that I have to send it back to Russia for repair. (extra cost and time).
I couldn't believe that this happened with a such a small current. Adaptto advertises "all sort of protections are enabled"
but it seems they forgot to secure the small ignition cables.

I don't want to blame this brilliant controller, I've studied electrical engineer and I know I had to put a small piece of
isolation tape there.
So be careful in order not to burn your brand new controller.

I attach a photo to show you what happened.

Ioannis

 

[Mammalian04]

Sorry to hear this Ioannis. Welcome to the forum though!

 

[Artur]

Sorry to hear this Ioannis. Welcome to the forum though!

I've been saying many times to adaptto to make a connector there in order to avoid this.. Well I think I will give a pair of DC-DC connectors with controllers to my clients to avoid this trouble.

Thx for sharing with us!

 

[Mammalian04]

I don't get it. I dropped the "Max" voltages way down and most of the cells balanced except one. I can't for the life of me get this BMS to do what I want.

 

[Ohbse]

Just FYI the accuracy of the BMS is ~10mV either way. Perfectly balanced on your display does not mean perfectly balanced in reality, but thankfully that tiny voltage deviation makes no real difference. Personally I would not give two hoots about <40mV imbalance.

 

[Allex]

Either bad connection on that balance plug or "wrong" levels in balance menu. Drop the balance to 3,6 and then wait 12 hours and see if cell 13 goes down.

 

[Jonboy]

Hi Guys, I've been using a button for regen with my Max E and decided to use variable so I picked up a Hall throttle for the parts to strip and mount on the rear lever.

Trouble is when it's all plugged in I'm getting a throttle warning on the screen and nothing works. If I then disconnect the throttle i'm using for braking Everything is fine and braking works push button style by shorting the + to the signal..

I've tried inverting the brake signal still the same?

Could it be the magnet is to close to the hall and I need to strip it first as last?

Any Help would be great!

Thanks

Jon

 

[crea2k]

Go into traction control menu and turn off acc off on break

 

[Offroader]

Hello guys,

This is my first post,

I've decided to tell my story so the new Adaptto customers to be aware of what happened.

At the beginning I couldn't solder the (temp - hall sensors) connector because the new connector has 6 contacts instead of 7.
So I sent them an email and they told me there is a new connection diagram for the 6 pin connector at the support web site, (the manual is not updated).
When I've finished with the connections everything was OK, the auto detect function worked perfectly, I set everything up and I was very happy.

The next day I've decided to go out for a ride to test the ebike. I mounted the controller on the bicycle frame and I connected the small
ignition wires together in order to power the controller as I didn't have a switch yet (it is on the way to Cyprus).

When everything was ready by accident the small ignition wires short circuited with the body of the controller as they are so close together
and after this the controller is dead.

I don't think the damage is big but the point is that I have to send it back to Russia for repair. (extra cost and time).
I couldn't believe that this happened with a such a small current. Adaptto advertises "all sort of protections are enabled"
but it seems they forgot to secure the small ignition cables.

I don't want to blame this brilliant controller, I've studied electrical engineer and I know I had to put a small piece of
isolation tape there.
So be careful in order not to burn your brand new controller.

I attach a photo to show you what happened.

Ioannis

It is also very easy to short the halls or temp wires also and then the controller doesn't work.

It most likely is a simple resistor which they use as a fuse. What I think adaptto really needs to do is make it easier to replace these resistors when we blow them, they are so damn tiny and hard to replace but doable. If you knew which one it blew you could replace it yourself which is a lot better than sending the whole controller back.

I've already shorted my temp and hall wires twice because of the wire bend where the wires exit the motor.

 

[Jonboy]

Go into traction control menu and turn off acc off on break

Thanks mate I just tried it.. but its the same.. :-(

Anyone?

Quick edit.. all sorted I had to bring the T &B limits JUST passed from where they physically start I guess to create dead area that niether are activated

 

[Mammalian04]

Go into traction control menu and turn off acc off on break

Thanks mate I just tried it.. but its the same.. :-(

Anyone?

Quick edit.. all sorted I had to bring the T &B limits JUST passed from where they physically start I guess to create dead area that niether are activated

Thanks for this update Jonboy, I am making this same wiring change soon. Thumb throttles for variable regen just came it. RideTheLightning hooked me up with a couple domino throttles so I'll get started when they arrive, hopefully today or tomorrow.

I really like the look of the super cheap anodized throttle/grip set for AliExpress but the throttle just feels too sloppy for good control on rough terrain (though they would be fine for blinging out a street ride. For now, I hope the domino ((with microswitch failsafe) installs and sets up with the Adaptto without trouble.

 

[Jonboy]

Glad this may help.. I debated thumb veriable regen so I could have it when I like but I find moving my thumb off the bars when going for it off road tiresome.. only time its better than verio regen on the lever is when you get a tricky obstacle and you can mechanically trail brake while while throttling. Im going the momentery push to break circuit for this eventually with the perm rveriable regen on d back lever

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I mounted a simple variable voltage hall sensor to my brake mount just next to the lever and stuck a magnet on the lever.
With a bit of positioning and tweaking of the mapping I was able to get progressive Regen which blends into the mechanical braking so seamlessly I can't tell where the mechanical brakes actually start.
It also means I probably won't need to replace my rear brake pads for a very, very long time now.
The only issue I've found is the voltage ramp mapping can't be compressed enough for the limited stroke I have and the regen doesn't get to it's max strength till after the mechanical brakes are engaged.

Cheers

 

[Mammalian04]

It's funny to see our different solutions for the same problem.

I am not tieing the regen to the rear brake as I feel like there is more precision with brakes only without the regen in the mix. Maybe I am wrong (haven't tried it). If an off the shelf solution comes to market, I'll give it a go. I'm just tired of all the building over the last year and want to go ride. Thumb throttle seemed less fidly to implement.

When you get it working right and are singing praises of how awesome it is and I have a warped rear rotor and crappy range, I may reconsider! :lol:

 

[Jonboy]

Long as your bike is working.. go ride!

Sort the fidley stuff out when youcan ....



Its pissin down in S Wales.. hence im in d garage on the spanners .lol

 

[Offroader]

Glad this may help.. I debated thumb veriable regen so I could have it when I like but I find moving my thumb off the bars when going for it off road tiresome.. only time its better than verio regen on the lever is when you get a tricky obstacle and you can mechanically trail brake while while throttling. Im going the momentery push to break circuit for this eventually with the perm rveriable regen on d back lever

I use a thumb throttle on my left side for the variable regen. I have no problems reaching it with my thumb and keeping my hand firmly planted on the handlebar. I just lift my thumb slightly over and use the throttle, I positioned the throttle just right for easy access. I can easily lift the front of my bike up with both thumbs on the thumb throttles.

Actually I have no problem using the thumb variable regen while also using the regular brakes at the same time, maybe I played too many video games.

I was recently seeing how much I used the variable regen, I thought maybe I always fully apply it. I noticed that I actually use the variable regen a lot when I want to slow down slightly. I mostly never use my regular brakes while riding in the street. I find that it is very useful to have variable regen to finely adjust my speed like when coming up to a stop and I also find the thumb throttle very easy to use, much easier than reaching up for the regular brakes.

I find that I have a much more firm grip on the handlebars when I just move my thumb to use the thumb throttle for braking than when I have to reach up for the regular brakes.

It is so comfortable to use the thumb throttle as I don't have to move my hand from the handlebar.

Here is a pick of the thumb throttle I use. These new thumb throttles are very good quality compared to the one on the right. I actually upgraded the one on the right to the same one I use on the left. The throttle also can be used left or right handed and has a nice button on it to shut off controller or throttle input.

I personally don't want to incorporate my regen into my hand brakes because I do lots of woods riding and need the regular brake feedback or brake modulation. SO when doing really slow technical offroad riding I don't use the regen and rely on the regular brakes as this really allows fine controlling. But if you don't do stuff like that and mostly drive on the street then having the regen on the brake lever will work fine.

 

[DasDouble]

What a great idea with these thumb regen-brakes...! Saves a lot of money instead of buying expensive e-brakes! Will think about that... Do you have steal handlebar on your bike...? Looks like it...

 

[Cowardlyduck]

It's interesting that you talk about not wanting regen on the lever for woods riding Offroader.

On Sunday I was doing lots of what we Aussies call Bush Bashing...basically riding directly through the bush/woods not on any trail. I found the variable regen was great...at speed, however when I was forced to slow right down to a crawl and going down hill I found it wasn't strong enough...I just had to pull the lever harder to engage more of the mechanical brakes. I guess that is a quirk of having regen on the lever...as your speed slows, you need more regen to get the same braking effect.

I also still have a regen button which engages full regen. When I'm going down extremely steep or rough off-road I just use that as it will keep my speed reasonably constant and safe.

Cheers

 

[Offroader]

It's interesting that you talk about not wanting regen on the lever for woods riding Offroader.

On Sunday I was doing lots of what we Aussies call Bush Bashing...basically riding directly through the bush/woods not on any trail. I found the variable regen was great...at speed, however when I was forced to slow right down to a crawl and going down hill I found it wasn't strong enough...I just had to pull the lever harder to engage more of the mechanical brakes. I guess that is a quirk of having regen on the lever...as your speed slows, you need more regen to get the same braking effect.

I also still have a regen button which engages full regen. When I'm going down extremely steep or rough off-road I just use that as it will keep my speed reasonably constant and safe.

Cheers

That is true that the regen doesn't do much at slower speeds so maybe if it is in the brake lever it wouldn't matter for good brake modulation at slower speeds.

I do still like the regen thumb throttle because it is so easy to press without having to reach up for the brakes. But it is more dangerous in that if I need to panic stop I am not covering the brakes and have to reach up wasting time.

What a great idea with these thumb regen-brakes...! Saves a lot of money instead of buying expensive e-brakes! Will think about that... Do you have steal handlebar on your bike...? Looks like it...

Yes it is an aluminum handlebar.

 

[icherouveim]

Hello guys,

This is my first post,

I've decided to tell my story so the new Adaptto customers to be aware of what happened.

At the beginning I couldn't solder the (temp - hall sensors) connector because the new connector has 6 contacts instead of 7.
So I sent them an email and they told me there is a new connection diagram for the 6 pin connector at the support web site, (the manual is not updated).
When I've finished with the connections everything was OK, the auto detect function worked perfectly, I set everything up and I was very happy.

The next day I've decided to go out for a ride to test the ebike. I mounted the controller on the bicycle frame and I connected the small
ignition wires together in order to power the controller as I didn't have a switch yet (it is on the way to Cyprus).

When everything was ready by accident the small ignition wires short circuited with the body of the controller as they are so close together
and after this the controller is dead.

I don't think the damage is big but the point is that I have to send it back to Russia for repair. (extra cost and time).
I couldn't believe that this happened with a such a small current. Adaptto advertises "all sort of protections are enabled"
but it seems they forgot to secure the small ignition cables.

I don't want to blame this brilliant controller, I've studied electrical engineer and I know I had to put a small piece of
isolation tape there.
So be careful in order not to burn your brand new controller.

I attach a photo to show you what happened.

Ioannis

It is also very easy to short the halls or temp wires also and then the controller doesn't work.

It most likely is a simple resistor which they use as a fuse. What I think adaptto really needs to do is make it easier to replace these resistors when we blow them, they are so damn tiny and hard to replace but doable. If you knew which one it blew you could replace it yourself which is a lot better than sending the whole controller back.

I've already shorted my temp and hall wires twice because of the wire bend where the wires exit the motor.

I agree with you guys, it will be better in the future if we have a small fuse box to avoid all these problems
or it's better for Adaptto to install some kind of short circuit protection for all the small wires.

 

[gensem]

I wonder why do you guys dont use a glued hall sensor on the lever for regen breaking.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36375&start=2400#p873836