Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ewinters]

IIRC brake input can be a hall sensor or a switch (e.g. Reed switch). The difference is that you'll use 2 or 3 wires.

 

[madin88]

yes it can be, but it's far more complicated if you want to have all things together - especially the brake light function on both the brake levers and the thumb brake.
i know i could install a magnet and a hall to the brake levers, but this is not what i want.
What i would like to have is slight regen (not variable) if i pull the hydraulic brake levers (they have already a switch in the brake line), and brake light should turn on.
additionally i still want to have the thumb throttle for variable e-brake. if i do not pull the hydraulics but only use the variable e-brake the brake light also should turn on.

at the moment i have no idea how the circuit could look like

 

[ewinters]

You could use the existing switch to power a relay with two separate lines, one for the controller and another for the lights. You just have to find a relay that may act as 2 (or use 2 relays) .

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Hello Everyone!

Please check out our new connection scheme!

Hope this will simplify the wiring process in the future.
The large-scale interactive scheme can be found here: http://adaptto.com/Support/

Best of luck!

 

[fullonoob]

Does the Domino Twist Grip Throttle work with this controller?
How should the wiring be done?
http://www.electricmotorsport.com/domino-twist-grip-throttle-with-microswitch.html

 

[bigbore]

I'm having the charge indication that pops up after turning on the key without the charge cable connected. Sometimes it tells Charge only for a couple of seconds and then change at the correct Eco/Normal/Boost indication but a couple of time the main screen was stuck at the wrong charge indication.
Anybody with this issue?

 

[Metallover]

yes it can be, but it's far more complicated if you want to have all things together - especially the brake light function on both the brake levers and the thumb brake.
i know i could install a magnet and a hall to the brake levers, but this is not what i want.
What i would like to have is slight regen (not variable) if i pull the hydraulic brake levers (they have already a switch in the brake line), and brake light should turn on.
additionally i still want to have the thumb throttle for variable e-brake. if i do not pull the hydraulics but only use the variable e-brake the brake light also should turn on.

at the moment i have no idea how the circuit could look like

This is fun!

To get slight regen on a brake lever switch, you can use a voltage divider circuit. If you want 20%, then you need a 5V*(0.2)=1V. Use two resistors with a ratio of 0.2, so something like a 10kohm and 2.5kohm. This should work as long as the adaptto display doesn't draw current from the input pin, which it shouldn't.

Sensing the thumb throttle to turn on the e-brake is a bit more complicated. I bet you can do it with a MOSFET. http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/transistor/tran_7.html

How I would do it is with a small microcontroller like an arduino. They are cheap and the software environment is free.

You can set up a digital INPUT_PULLUP for the brake switch, then depending on your brake light, you can output the 5V signal to a relay/mosfet or directly to the light to turn it on.

Then you can do an analog read of your thumb throttle and whenever it gets over a certain threshold (like 10 out of 1024) you can power the brake light.

Then you can have fun with stuff such as turn signals and stuff

 

[madin88]

thanks for your input metallover!
i will consider all that and keep you posted here if i have it worked out.

 

[ccmdr]

Some experiences I've found with both my Mini-E setup's, when you mount the display with the bar mounting brackets supplied avoid using locktight on the nut/bolt's.

I've done this on my old build and new (thinking the first time had been a fluke) and it makes the plastic on the main display enclouse and the 'U' brackets very brittle to the point that both 'shattered' around the nut/bolt area under only the weight of the display, no tight cables or button pressing etc... just left to cure overnight.

Why did I use locktight even though the nut is held in place (handy design idea btw), after a few weeks commuting on the Adaptto setup (first 12 miles on semi smooth 'A' roads, second half on washboard 'B' roads) one of the bolts had worked itself loose. It could be the locktight I use (Loctite 243), but just a heads up, it'll makes mounting the unit a mini project in itself. Although I do now prefer my low profile 100mm bar stem mount .

 

[MurderousFrog]

I still have the same issue with my MINI-E...
The bike ran fine for the first ~50 kms. Beautiful acceleration, everything fine. Then after two days the throttle started cutting out under (more or less) heavy acceleration >2.5kw and a !HALLS! error is displayed until I release the throttle.
Below ~ 2.5kw the bike works fine, no issues.
I have upgraded my halls to SS41's, and now use a frame grounded shielded signal cable for them.
The weird thing is that I am pretty sure that before I upgraded the halls, autodetect set my halls angle to 240° or maybe 180°, now it sets the angle to 300°.
The issue still persists.

I have played with the settings a bit, and I managed to find a setting where even under full throttle the !HALLS! error doesn't show up.
HOWEVER this is certainly a wrong setting, because the acceleration is extremely sluggish and low and the motor heats up a bit faster.

Any help? I've ran out of ideas.

 

[ccmdr]

@ MurderousFrog

Similar issues with Autodectect not sorting Phase Angle correctly although not quite identical. Try following the 'Manual motor tuning' section in full before running 'Autodetect'. You really feel/hear for the correct settings, smooth, quiet and low amps at cruising speed 'D'.

Also, after adjusting each angle (0/90/180 etc..) run an 'Autodetect'. One of them will be the sweet spot. I don't think you should need to and it takes a while, but then with a bit of passive cooling even long bursts of Controller Max settings on Boost barely makes the Mini-E go over 42C (16C Ambient/UK/without windchill factor).

Hope this helps,

 

[MurderousFrog]

Similar issues with Autodectect not sorting Phase Angle correctly although not quite identical. Try following the 'Manual motor tuning' section in full before running 'Autodetect'. You really feel/hear for the correct settings, smooth, quiet and low amps at cruising speed 'D'.

Also, after adjusting each angle (0/90/180 etc..) run an 'Autodetect'. One of them will be the sweet spot. I don't think you should need to and it takes a while, but then with a bit of passive cooling even long bursts of Controller Max settings on Boost barely makes the Mini-E go over 42C (16C Ambient/UK/without windchill factor).
Hope this helps,

Thanks for the help, I will try it out as soon as I can.

 

[Offroader]

Has anyone unlocked their Max-e Yet?

Now that mine is out of warranty, is there any drawback for doing this? I want to increase my phase amps a little more.

 

[Allex]

How many series do you have? OVS value? Try to max out DC amps first.
Before upping the phase, read a bit here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71646&start=125#p1102760

 

[Jonboy]

Hi Guys

I've just had my Max E back from Adaptto after a repair.. I must say the service was excellent!

While it was with them the firmware was updated and now I've hooked it all up and set it up as before the bike is a good 10mph slower, I never used ovs before but if i feed it some it gets back to the 50 odd mph speed it used to do.

The autodetect worked fine, but I understand I need to perform a manual motor setup to get it back near to it's original performance.. This looks a bit Tricky!!

Just wondering if anybody has some settings I could try? or any other advice for that matter..

My setup is:

Max E (with latest firmware I assume)
Cromotor V3
20s 32ah Multistar Lipos


Many thanks

Jon

 

[Longshot]

Im trying to figure out whats wrong with my bike. Ive had it balancing for more than 24 hours but my #9 group doesnt balance and is at 4.15 while all the other groups are at 4.0 When I turn the screen on and click over to the balance screen i see "BMS FAIL" for a few seconds and then it switches back to "Balancing". Do I have a problem with the BMS or the battery?

 

[Offroader]

Hi Guys

I've just had my Max E back from Adaptto after a repair.. I must say the service was excellent!

While it was with them the firmware was updated and now I've hooked it all up and set it up as before the bike is a good 10mph slower, I never used ovs before but if i feed it some it gets back to the 50 odd mph speed it used to do.

The autodetect worked fine, but I understand I need to perform a manual motor setup to get it back near to it's original performance.. This looks a bit Tricky!!

Just wondering if anybody has some settings I could try? or any other advice for that matter..

My setup is:

Max E (with latest firmware I assume)
Cromotor V3
20s 32ah Multistar Lipos


Many thanks

Jon

Doesn't make sense unless you had OVS before. I know when I reset my controller my bike felt really weak and that was because I didn't increase the PWR timing, I forgot I had changed that before. That makes a huge difference. I assume you set phase amps and battery voltage to what you had before.

I've autodetected my cromotor so many times and it never has led to any speed differences, I also never manually set anything also.

 

[Jackrabbit]

Does any one know the pin out for the display/controller connector? It looks like only 4 of the six wires are used (blue and green not wired in) is this correct?

 

[ccmdr]

After completing a two week shake-down test today on the new build (52kph avg 420km), on disassembly (one of the 'B' grade A123 20ah cells only being 14.8AH) I had to remove one of the heatsinks (having two for asthetic reasons only) I set onto the side of the Mini-E which stealthily protrudes from the Vector's side panel, and noticed that one of the phase wires had come loose. Doing a quick 'Tug test' :wink: on the suspect phase, the wire came straight out... from the Mini-E Controller side!

This was a dry joint with only 1mm of the wire tinned and the rest had been 'mushroomed' from an attempt to force the wire into the socket's 'bucket'. The aforementioned had also created an arcing effect melting through (a hole 2mm dia) the XT150's 250A proof insulation... (only running 86vdc 22A through the contoller 51A Phase).

It is probably a very rare instance, but I would recommend on your next build/service/stripdown that all connectors are thoroughly tested. It may feel the tin has wicked through the wire, but this doesn't indicate a solid connection.

 

[senshi]

Does anybody have any info on when the "Midi-E" 8kw will be coming out?

 

[fullonoob]

I like the printing on the side!

 

[Jonboy]

Hi Guys

I've just had my Max E back from Adaptto after a repair.. I must say the service was excellent!

While it was with them the firmware was updated and now I've hooked it all up and set it up as before the bike is a good 10mph slower, I never used ovs before but if i feed it some it gets back to the 50 odd mph speed it used to do.

The autodetect worked fine, but I understand I need to perform a manual motor setup to get it back near to it's original performance.. This looks a bit Tricky!!

Just wondering if anybody has some settings I could try? or any other advice for that matter..

My setup is:

Max E (with latest firmware I assume)
Cromotor V3
20s 32ah Multistar Lipos


Many thanks

Jon

Doesn't make sense unless you had OVS before. I know when I reset my controller my bike felt really weak and that was because I didn't increase the PWR timing, I forgot I had changed that before. That makes a huge difference. I assume you set phase amps and battery voltage to what you had before.

I've autodetected my cromotor so many times and it never has led to any speed differences, I also never manually set anything also.

Hi Offroader

yeh a little odd.. I never ran OVS before and the settings are the same.

Since my post I dug out some Max E / cro settings I filled away off here before I got mine for reference, that I forgot I had.

I put the settings in from one dudes post & it's much better. But if you are saying a auto detect plus some added PWR is the way perhaps I'll try that. What PWR setting do you use?

 

[ziltoid81]

Im trying to figure out whats wrong with my bike. Ive had it balancing for more than 24 hours but my #9 group doesnt balance and is at 4.15 while all the other groups are at 4.0 When I turn the screen on and click over to the balance screen i see "BMS FAIL" for a few seconds and then it switches back to "Balancing". Do I have a problem with the BMS or the battery?

Have a similar issue.....

Charged the bike till 4.2V per cell or 84V all.
The pack was balanced to 0,009V difference.
Cells are new, only 2 cycles.
Rode ~50 to 60km and put the bike in the garage.

Today i just want to charge full and ride, but i noticed a 0,07x Vdrop at bank 20.
So i plugged in the charger and 30min later i looked at it again, now solid 0,1V drop, so it got even worse.

I dont know where to start now, is the BMS faulty or my pack?

The BMS seems to work, no errors, the leds are working.

Does anybody knows which current the BMS uses to balance?
I have a 19p pack, so it may take a while to balance a bank back to normal.

I cant believe my nearly new pack out of samsung 25r is faulty.
The cells will also not drift that much in one cycle.

 

[Longshot]

Im trying to figure out whats wrong with my bike. Ive had it balancing for more than 24 hours but my #9 group doesnt balance and is at 4.15 while all the other groups are at 4.0 When I turn the screen on and click over to the balance screen i see "BMS FAIL" for a few seconds and then it switches back to "Balancing". Do I have a problem with the BMS or the battery?

Have a similar issue.....

Charged the bike till 4.2V per cell or 84V all.
The pack was balanced to 0,009V difference.
Cells are new, only 2 cycles.
Rode ~50 to 60km and put the bike in the garage.

Today i just want to charge full and ride, but i noticed a 0,07x Vdrop at bank 20.
So i plugged in the charger and 30min later i looked at it again, now solid 0,1V drop, so it got even worse.

I dont know where to start now, is the BMS faulty or my pack?

The BMS seems to work, no errors, the leds are working.

Does anybody knows which current the BMS uses to balance?
I have a 19p pack, so it may take a while to balance a bank back to normal.

I cant believe my nearly new pack out of samsung 25r is faulty.
The cells will also not drift that much in one cycle.

That doesnt sound good. Try leaving it charging for 24 hours and see if it balances. You could also ride it and drain the other groups down and then charge to see what it does.

 

[ziltoid81]

I charge the bank manually now trough the balance cables with an external charger.
But i need to ride today, so i will do this over night and see what happens.
I cant use much current with these tiny balance leads.

The bank is @4,09V, so the adaptto BMS reads it right.

But the big question is, why does this happen over night, or during the last ride.
I dont believe the samsung 25r will drift that much.

The whole pack was balanced perfectly on friday morning.