Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[madin88]

shouldn't we run autodetect without any OVS entered?

 

[Allex]

Yes, OVS must be off during the motor tuning.
Otherwise the real values that works best for the motor will be off and you can start experience weird things like better motor efficiency at OVS or better/worse power response when enabling or disabling OVS

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Yes, OVS must be off during the motor tuning.
Otherwise the real values that works best for the motor will be off and you can start experience weird things like better motor efficiency at OVS or better/worse power response when enabling or disabling OVS

That explains a lot. Thanks Allex.

Any idea's why only OVS 1-2 work for me? Could it be due to the huge sag my LiFeP04 battery has under load?

Cheers

 

[madin88]

Yes, OVS must be off during the motor tuning.
Otherwise the real values that works best for the motor will be off and you can start experience weird things like better motor efficiency at OVS or better/worse power response when enabling or disabling OVS

what about PWR timing?
it always is about 0.54 per default and does not change after autodetect (at least on my Hub motors). should we set it to 0 or to a known value that works best for a known motor (like 1,4 for cromotor) BEFORE running autodetect, or better not touch it and adjust it afterwards?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

what about PWR timing?
it always is about 0.54 per default and does not change after autodetect (at least on my Hub motors). should we set it to 0 or to a known value that works best for a known motor (like 1,4 for cromotor) BEFORE running autodetect, or better not touch it and adjust it afterwards?

+1

I've found that changing the PWR timing, then running auto-detect gives different results also.
What does it actually do?

Cheers

 

[Allex]

Exactly, PWR is always 0,54 and does not change during autodetect. This is the value one have to experiment with
Start adjusting it only after the short or long autodetect.
Short autodetect: apply full throttle when the screen tells you to do so, release it when the wheel klicks three times. This sets the hall/phase combination right.
If you keep holding the throttle, the long autodetect process begins where it tunes halls angles and IND timing.

For more info about above settings and what they do, refer to the manual.

 

[frlecmatjaz]

Hello,

I need some info regarding the Adaptto controller - anyone runing the controller with a "BIG BLOCK" or similar motor ? Any issues ?

Thanks.

 

[sn0wchyld]

Yes, OVS must be off during the motor tuning.
Otherwise the real values that works best for the motor will be off and you can start experience weird things like better motor efficiency at OVS or better/worse power response when enabling or disabling OVS

That explains a lot. Thanks Allex.

Any idea's why only OVS 1-2 work for me? Could it be due to the huge sag my LiFeP04 battery has under load?

Cheers

i would guess that your hall offset is a bit incorrect... field weakening (esentially what OVS is) relies on the controller knowing the position of the motor very accurately, so if its not working well then chances are the hall offset is a b it off.
some motors however just dont respond well to field weakening, so it could just be the motor itself.

 

[douglashart]

So close and yet so far away. I'm cutting into the cable from the controller to the display (as suggested) to put a kill switch in the red wire but while I'm there , I would like to pull 5v to power a 1 watt fan. Can anyone tell me, is the black wire negative to complete that circuit?

 

[Mammalian04]

Sorry, this isn't an answer to your question but I would caution your on the load that you place on those wires. Others have experienced strange things by tapping into the USB and 5v wires. If things get wacky with non-smooth running of the motor, try unhooking the fan.

 

[macribs]

So close and yet so far away. I'm cutting into the cable from the controller to the display (as suggested) to put a kill switch in the red wire but while I'm there , I would like to pull 5v to power a 1 watt fan. Can anyone tell me, is the black wire negative to complete that circuit?

Sorry, this isn't an answer to your question but I would caution your on the load that you place on those wires. Others have experienced strange things by tapping into the USB and 5v wires. If things get wacky with non-smooth running of the motor, try unhooking the fan.

Seems risky to tap into those wires.
You could make a separate tiny pack to run your fan from? Or simply add one of those large and 20$ cheap 18650 battery banks? 16000 Ah or more should last a while
Or get this little thing or similar and you can make your own 18650 fan pack to run fans or whatever 5v. That way you would not do damage to your controller. Add a thermal sensor to save on running time.
If you need to recharge smart phone,tablets, raspberryPi's etc you could just make pack with little more Ah?

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

 

[ridethelightning]

I have an issue with a brand new, out-of-the-box max-e.

plugged in to an 80v battery, with precharge.
result- screen lights up and reads the normal 80v,0t etc., with -0.1A ,flickering slightly in the bottom corner, -10wflicker in the upper corner(just from calibration error?)

HALLS! warning displayed, as i have not connected the phase/halls plugs yet, just the display wire and the main battery cables.

If i press any button on the display the screen freezes immediately. I cannot move at all from main screen.
the -0.1A is still displayed but frozen.

restart = same thing

Is this a caused by a dodgy display?

i opened the display to check the ribbon cable and solder connections on the pcb, all looked good.

could a re=-flash of firmware be helpful?

Any support most welcome.
(EDIT) It seems definately to be a problem with the display as i have substituted the controller onto another screen on another bike, and it works as it should.
looks like the screen has a fault somewhere.

(RE EDIT) solved! problem was a broken solder joint on the display cable where i had cut and re-joined the cable to rout it through the frame.
if you get similar screen freeze, it could be a bad solder joint for display cable on pcb or in the cable somewhere
RTL

 

[Litium]

Hallo guys!!! I have a MAX-E 10Kw model, i try to set the most powerful regen, 70A battery side, 250 phase amp regen, active mode ecc...
But regen is always too weak, only 14-15 ampere when i push for example at high speed like 100kmh... no more than 14 amp is possible

What i can do for stronger regen? I use a cromotor so powerful motor, and when i try with a kelly 400A is alot more stronger the regen

Thanks for reply!!

 

[ridethelightning]

i have found the regen settings rarely reflect the actual regen charge currents.

thus, i have generally turned the regen phase amps and max charge currents up to the max to get good regen.

 

[GCinDC]

hey folks,

so i finally started charging w/ 30A coil and Eaton APR48. checked my charge configs:
Charge enable: yes
Charge cutoff 83.5V
Supply current 10A
Charge current 10A

Plugged it all in and saw the current going back in via the main screen, then watched the CHARGE STATUS screen like an expectant mother, and worked like a charm.

So last night after my commute, i thought i'd try out my 70A coil, so swapped it out, plugged it in, and nothing. i entered the charge mode and it didn't register any supply current or voltage. i tested the connectors off the coil with a DMM and saw 54V.

so i replaced the 30A coil but still no current making it to the controller. i tried this 5-6 times, unplugging everything, including turning on and off my pack to restart that system.

anyone have any suggestions to troubleshoot? thx!

 

[Litium]

Ok...more more strong regen i have to use ACTIVE REGEN function, and i can see 40A regen and more strong brake effect!

I know is less efficient, but only with active funcion regen become more strong

Thanks to all

 

[Doctorbass]

i have found the regen settings rarely reflect the actual regen charge currents.

thus, i have generally turned the regen phase amps and max charge currents up to the max to get good regen.

I think it depend on the timming tunning of the regen features.. you can optimise these as described in the manual :wink:

I can regen 80A on my 10kW MAx-E but the 1C max charge battery dont like that lol...

 

[Offroader]

i have found the regen settings rarely reflect the actual regen charge currents.

thus, i have generally turned the regen phase amps and max charge currents up to the max to get good regen.

I think it depend on the timming tunning of the regen features.. you can optimise these as described in the manual :wink:

I can regen 80A on my 10kW MAx-E but the 1C max charge battery dont like that lol...

Really, cause I found the same as ridethelightning, I don't get anywhere near the regen values I set.

I'll have to mess around with the settings like you say.

 

[cwah]

Can someone explain how on earth...
Midi-e at 120A battery and 300A phase current is 8KW.

And max-e at 140A and 350A phase current 14KW?

From the specs numbers it doesn't look like a 50% increase of power

 

[Artur]

You can use higher phase amps, dear Dr.Bass made a video about it.

About regen: I am sure it is a setting problem, I set my battery charging current with regen ti 20a to not go over 1c on a battery, but my phase amps on recharge is around 110 and my rear wheel is almost locking out during regen (i have 17" moto wheels).

 

[Litium]

wow Artur, almost locking rear wheel is my dream, and Doctorbass at 80a is incredible good!!!
Me with 80A battery recharge settings, active mode on, and 350 phase regen current, dont go over 35-40 regen, and sure dont lock the wheel...
I have a cromotor, so is enough powerful for strong regen..

I try all settings on the manual, but seems i cant go over 35-40a on strong decelleration

 

[Litium]

i have found the regen settings rarely reflect the actual regen charge currents.

thus, i have generally turned the regen phase amps and max charge currents up to the max to get good regen.

I think it depend on the timming tunning of the regen features.. you can optimise these as described in the manual :wink:

I can regen 80A on my 10kW MAx-E but the 1C max charge battery dont like that lol...

Doc, please can you tell me all paramenter of your regen settings?
I have a doubt about angle correction2, after autotune is always at 0, in manual i read is part of the tuning of active regen, so i believe in forward if i change this value dont make difference, but if i go forward and move this value the motor change sound speed ecc...like angle corretion1
Wich is the difference from ANGLE CORR1 and ANGLECORR2??

Thanks

 

[Artur]

angle correction2 is only if you use Master and Slave controllers.

 

[Litium]

Thanks for answer Artur, so in the manual is write wrong, because talk about anglecorr2 for the regen section..

So the parameter of the regen for push more, maybe is power timing 2? Or even this is for slave controller?