Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Thanks Artur...
So we have a instruction manual with big mistake, because talk about "Angle correction2 and PWR timing2", for Active braking, and sure not for slave controller....
I think Adaptto have to correct this on the manual for better understanding!! :)
 
Thanks for settings Artur...
You have less amp than me...
I think is impossible with Adaptto go more than 20-30A during regen
I will continue with test
 
on my 12p 25R pack i have set 60A regen (that would be exactly 2C charge rate). no problem so far - i just needed to set HVC about 2V higher to prevent cut off when the battery is fully charged, but since i only charge to 4,1-4,15V there is enough room above.
when riding down a hill with speed above 70kmh i hit the 60A, but not on a flat road. the settings "torque rise" or "min speed" have an effect on this, and of course also the "brk phase amps".
 
Thanks for info Madin, when i finish the test with all possible parameters i post the results!

:)
 
In the same way batteries can take peak draw, they can also take peak charge.
In almost all cases Regen current will only reach peak values for a small amount of time so unless your going down pikes peak, you can set it way higher than your constant charge rate safely.
I set mine at 60A and I do see this occasionally, but never for more than a few seconds at most.
There is also a thing called surface charge. I don't fully understand it, but it's a charge that somehow doesn't sink deeply into the cell and the next time you pull current this is what is used.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
In the same way batteries can take peak draw, they can also take peak charge.
In almost all cases Regen current will only reach peak values for a small amount of time so unless your going down pikes peak, you can set it way higher than your constant charge rate safely.
I set mine at 60A and I do see this occasionally, but never for more than a few seconds at most.
There is also a thing called surface charge. I don't fully understand it, but it's a charge that somehow doesn't sink deeply into the cell and the next time you pull current this is what is used.

Cheers

Kind of like a capacitor? Speaking of that, is there such a thing for out eBikes? E.g. A capacitor that could soak up a constant 40amps for 30 seconds and then dish out 100 amps for 5 seconds. Then when you let off the throttle, it keeps soaking up the charge again until you hammer the throttle hard again. This would make life easier on smaller packs with fewer parallels.

Anyone heard of such a "longer timeframe" type capacitor?
 
Thanks Artur. I am not sure what the relative "big volume" is but if it is the same volume as the batteries, I suppose it would be better to just build a bigger pack.

Oh well, it was just a thought! :)
 
Litium said:
Thanks Artur...
So we have a instruction manual with big mistake, because talk about "Angle correction2 and PWR timing2", for Active braking, and sure not for slave controller....
I think Adaptto have to correct this on the manual for better understanding!! :)


Angl corr2 and PWR2 is for active regen and reverse.
When you have 2wd setup you program them individually, first by connecting the display to the slave and then to the master.
The manual is correct.
 
Allex said:
Angl corr2 and PWR2 is for active regen and reverse.
When you have 2wd setup you program them individually, first by connecting the display to the slave and then to the master.
The manual is correct.

exactly, a 2WD system will be programmed individually. makes much more sense.. Thank you for the info Allex.
do you know how to determine the optimal values for these two settings?
 
Allex said:
Litium said:
Thanks Artur...
So we have a instruction manual with big mistake, because talk about "Angle correction2 and PWR timing2", for Active braking, and sure not for slave controller....
I think Adaptto have to correct this on the manual for better understanding!! :)


Angl corr2 and PWR2 is for active regen and reverse.
When you have 2wd setup you program them individually, first by connecting the display to the slave and then to the master.
The manual is correct.

Well this is what I got from Adaptto as an answer. I agree that it is used for reverse, but it is somehow connected with master and slave mode if I understood them correct. Anyway, I set up only 18a battery current just because I don't want to stress the battery. For me it is enough regenbraking power with 1 00 phase with 17" wheel
 
Does anyone know what the value of the resistor R59 in the controller? I cant find any value by mesuring it impossible to read on top of it too, I allso have problems with the display at charging, I can't move through the menu when I'm charging. (frozen) when charger is off everything is normal.adapttojpg.jpg
 
Charge bug.
I've been dealing with Charge bug from some months, now Charge is always present in the center of the display and the only method I found to remove it is to turn to no the Charge enable option in Charge setup or to connect the charge cable in the charge plug. Is sufficient to have just the coil and the caps connected and the Charge indication turn off and the display shows eco/Normal/Boost modes.
My firmware is the old RC7b and the only advice I had so far is to upgrade to a newer one. For the moment I'm not going to upgrade.
Anybody has any idea what could be the root cause of this issue?
 
Good evening together,

I have planed to install a GPS tracker on my Vector in future. This GPS tracker should be connected with the main-battery so I don´t have to charge the GPS tracker or that the battery has no power when the bike gets stolen. How do you guys think, could I manage that? Maybe via USB-port? Or are there some other connectors where you can charge everything you want?

-Cheers, Elias
 
You should get a power inverter like this depending on voltage you want -> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-5V2A-New-AC-100V-240V-Converter-Adapter-DC-5V-2A-2000mA-Power-Supply-EU-Plug/32277477479.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.1.opVvBM&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7,searchweb201644_3_79_78_77_82_80_62,searchweb201560_4
Connect it to the battery source power after the main fuse. and you'll have power to the unit at all time, unless you have a powerswitch.
 
Servus, I need help.
I want to extend the Cable from the Display to the Controller. My Problem, after removing the Cable from the Connector, i couldn't find the sheet of paper where i have written the Pin Layout . The cable colors at the Controller are different to the ones at the Display. At the Adaptto schematic i can't find it.

Who can provide the correct Pin Layout for me?
 
Hey guys anybody got a fix for this.. My Max E has been working fine but just recently when I switch it on instead of the normal ECO-BMS-ECO on start up it displays PROTECT-BMS-PROTECT... Disconnect from the battery then reconnect, then it's perfect.. ECO-BMS-ECO. rides normal no probs :?:

Very annoying, I really don't want to damage it at the mo as my lad gets his adaptto/raptor setup for xmas.. I'll be gutted if my bike is in dock & we can't go ride together!
 
dafex said:
Servus, I need help.
I want to extend the Cable from the Display to the Controller. My Problem, after removing the Cable from the Connector, i couldn't find the sheet of paper where i have written the Pin Layout . The cable colors at the Controller are different to the ones at the Display. At the Adaptto schematic i can't find it.

Who can provide the correct Pin Layout for me?
I nearly had the same problem when I extended my wires.
Lucky for you I cut them off and used different connectors so I still have my originals in the box:
DSC_2660.jpg


So from Left to Right it goes:
Black-->Brown
Red-->Red
Orange-->Yellow
Brown-->White

Hopefully yours are the same. :|

I think it's a bit poor for Adaptto not to consider the colour coding more carefully on these wires. Particularly since these are the most likely wires that will need to be cut and extended by everyone.
In my case it wasn't just the length that was a problem, but also the size of the connectors I couldn't fit inside my frame underneath my battery, so I had to replace them entirely.

Cheers
 
Hallo Guys, i want show my settings of my Max-e with 20S 8P of SONY VTC4, at 150 battery amps and 380 phase amps...
I see under full throttle and full speed battery drop at 67V constant, and controller pull 150-165 continous batt amp, maybe with more parallel i can go more fast, but Cromotor go very hot pretty fast too, i put the temp setting at max 110C and after 4-5 km at full throttle i have this temp, so power loss...
I see with PWR timing at 1.5 the motor go less hot but the controller put out less amp...
The strange thing, before i change the firmware from lock to unlock i have better performance, i put the same settings i have before, but motor go more slow and bad, so i loose 3 days for new settings and test, but i cant have the same performance as before (118Kmh, and motor moore cool)
I dont know...but seems last time i found a really sweet spot of settings...
 

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Thank you for your help
Cowardlyduck said:
Lucky for you I cut them off and used different connectors so I still have my originals in the box:

So from Left to Right it goes:
Black-->Brown
Red-->Red
Orange-->Yellow
Brown-->White

Hopefully yours are the same.
I'm afraid not. Following wire colors i have:

At the female plug (Controller)
Pin 1 Yellow
Pin 2 Red
Pin 3 Brown
Pin 4 White

This match with the right one from you.

For the male plug (Display)

From left to right:
1 Brown
2 Blue
3 Black
4 White

May be some one knows which one is power supply and which one are bus signals?
 

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