DasDouble
100 kW
How can I connect my Arduino (5volt) with a power supply/Adaptto?
Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
ccmdr
100 W
Just another heads up, today is the 2nd time a XT150 phase connector 'fell off' mid ride... controller side, not the previous one I repaired either 
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.Altair
1 kW
When those connectors are loose, you can tighten them by inserting a pin or taper punch into the center hole, and making the ring of fingers larger. It doesn't take much so don't overdo it or the connector will become very hard to insert & remove.
Better to do this on initial assembly, rather than waiting until the heat from a loose-fitting connector has softened the metal of the fingers, promoting a bad contact that burns the plating, and produces still more heat.
Better to do this on initial assembly, rather than waiting until the heat from a loose-fitting connector has softened the metal of the fingers, promoting a bad contact that burns the plating, and produces still more heat.
ccmdr
100 W
Sorry Altair, should've been more specific. The physical solder connection from cable to the xt150 socket came out, as in 'dry joint', although I have had to 'expand' a couple XT150's from the battery terminals (HK bought connectors).
This is the 2nd dry jointed solder connection of the phase cables to the xt150 socket on the controller side.
This is the 2nd dry jointed solder connection of the phase cables to the xt150 socket on the controller side.
Altair
1 kW
OH! Not the same thing.
Much more serious when you're out on a ride.
Maybe you should report that directly to Adaptto, for QA notification.
Much more serious when you're out on a ride.
Maybe you should report that directly to Adaptto, for QA notification.
I've been using a zip tie on one side of my display like this for months now without issue as I lost the bolt soon after getting my Adaptto.
I like it cause it allows me to adjust the angle on the fly, but it still sits on the bars firmly enough not to move on it's own during riding.
Cheers
I like it cause it allows me to adjust the angle on the fly, but it still sits on the bars firmly enough not to move on it's own during riding.
Cheers
Quick question.
I have just started assembling my adaptto kit, i have two wires on my cromotor for temp sensing, they are both white.
Does one go to the GND? And does it matter which wire attaches to the signal and GND connection as the white wires are identical and not labelled.
I have just started assembling my adaptto kit, i have two wires on my cromotor for temp sensing, they are both white.
Does one go to the GND? And does it matter which wire attaches to the signal and GND connection as the white wires are identical and not labelled.
notger
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2013
- Messages
- 279
Hi,
i have my adaptto at home now but not in use.
But a question that came up right away, and where i do not find answers in the manual.
is it possible to quickly switch profiles via simple electric switch.
(like in most other china controllers ex. kelly 5v/0v torque/normal)
---
and questions about the USB Port on the display.
i got an very short answer from adaptto, that it can handle "1-2 Amps not more".
for driving a quite bright bike light 1,5 Amps with 5 Volt would be enough for me.
But does anyone have experience if the usb port will handle those 1,5 or even 2 Amps continously (1-3 hours)
---
thanks in advance
Gernot
i have my adaptto at home now but not in use.
But a question that came up right away, and where i do not find answers in the manual.
is it possible to quickly switch profiles via simple electric switch.
(like in most other china controllers ex. kelly 5v/0v torque/normal)
---
and questions about the USB Port on the display.
i got an very short answer from adaptto, that it can handle "1-2 Amps not more".
for driving a quite bright bike light 1,5 Amps with 5 Volt would be enough for me.
But does anyone have experience if the usb port will handle those 1,5 or even 2 Amps continously (1-3 hours)
---
thanks in advance
Gernot
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
hi brum.brumbrum said:
from experience of opening cros, the white wires go to either side of a resistor that changes its resitivity according to temperature(thermistor).
for it to work with adaptto, one side will need to go to gnd, the other needs to go to the temp pin in the halls plug. it doesnt matter which way round for kty83/84/81 type.
id say yours might be a 10k, and probably wont matter which way round either but i cant say for sure, as iv only used kty type.
Rodney64
100 kW
One question about this schematic.
All wiring going from the BMS boards go to the negative for cells 1 to 15, but the last wire on the battery cell 16 goes to the positive? Is this correct.
All wiring going from the BMS boards go to the negative for cells 1 to 15, but the last wire on the battery cell 16 goes to the positive? Is this correct.
Allex
100 MW
ROD, better check the new schematic on their support page, very clear to see on whats going on.
steveo
100 kW
korpin said:
I installed my display on my ride.. i cracked one of the plastic clips.. as well as some bits around the mounting area display side cracked..
i tried to torque it snug.. and i'm very careful with things like this.. its just shit cheap plastic
I like your zip tie suggestion..
i did manage to fix mine as i had a spare clip from the second display i have..
however if it breaks again.. i'm doing the zip ties..
my bike should hit warp speed .. so gotta make sure she doesn't fly off hahah
-steveo
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
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how are you guys breaking displays? iv installed and used heaps of them and never had any issue with the clips/mounts breaking.
perhaps some rubber gasket around the bar to get it to grip rather than tightening the the bolts up tight could improve?
perhaps some rubber gasket around the bar to get it to grip rather than tightening the the bolts up tight could improve?
Rodney64
100 kW
Thanks Alex, I've had enough a good look at the new schematic, I'll give it a go.Allex said:
ridethelightning said:
I picked up this old quote from another thread about using cromotor temp sensor https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37377&start=150#p819734 is this correct information?
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
brumbrum said:
you mean re. 10k thermistor there- i think the later firmware version does support it.
seem to remember though that it isnt as accurate as the kty 83/81 like the one that comes with the controller kit(small reddish/gold resistor thingy) in that it may only register correct temp after motor reaches 70c or something for example(sorry bit vague but it was ages ago)
so, if you have access to a puller id reccomend swapping the 10k for the supplied kty. easy job.
also, iv found some stock 10k ones so badly glued in (with some brittle crap)that i only had to touch it and it came loose.
a puller is a great tool to have around, if you havnt got one already....sooner or later youll need it :wink:
ccmdr
100 W
brumbrum - Same issue with the Cro temp sensor, although I just replaced it with the supplied temp sensor from Adaptto. If you have the 'genuine' Cro not a QS, I'd recommend opening her up just to check and replace the crumbly glue compound they use on the halls and the temp sensor (as ridethelightening rightly says). Add a little high temp bearing grease and your deep muddy puddles should hopefully be held away from the Cro's internals .
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