Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[madin88]

I have not flashed this controller yet.

Could you flash and report back?
It must have something to do with the firmware because in my case everything worked well BEFORE the update.

What should i do now?
Flashing older FW i have not tried yet, but from what i know it probably doesn't work.

 

[Allex]

I don't follow you :?
Why did you post it if you don't know what it is?
I thought you were posting that to show that there was no problem with the throttle mapping!

Of course I posted to show that there is no problem, at least with my firmare. It is just a quide on how to wire up, what steps to take and what you should expect to see on the screen.

 

[steveo]

my adaptto custom mount kit

anyone interested i can print a kit for ya for a small fee

 

[Artur]

Just my 2 cents.

Adaptto offer a controller/BMS and charging coil. One of their primary unique functions is the buck charge capability. What do you need for this function, controller/BMS and the coil. Are you as a prospective buyer thinking, right that's handy lets disconnect/remove all that, bring it into work/house and charge it there as it's going to make life easier for me? No hopefully your not a sadist .

So why the dickens are you wanting to put a precharge setup on a battery that will only be used when the battery is very rarely removed from the bike? Does this count as a high wear item with a spark once every 6-12 months when you upgrade your battery setup?

Once you've everything hooked up you can more or less forget bout it. Use the 'On/Off' wiring supplied to cycle it on and off and leave everything else alone . Obviously there will be some people who have 'just' the controller, but wouldn't it be easier for them to have +/- going to the controller and separate +/- going to 'their' charging system again wouldn't need pre-charge unless your in the bad habit of connecting your charger live...

There will be the odd percent who disconnect the battery, remove it from 'mounts,' re-route cabling etc... to charge and they will need pre-charge/anti spark. However they've missed a perfectly viable function that adaptto supply and are working around it.

Artur and his Vector frames have gallons of space for connecting it all up and leaving it alone, so he has a perfectly valid statement for just using the C63 breaker.

Swim upstream and expect help from 'on high' or go with the flow. Don't make more work for yourself .

You are absolutely correct. Have no idea why someone would need to disconnect battery from controller to charge it if this option perfectly developed in adaptto controller. And I had few times C63 did it job when and how it should, so no reason to search for another solution for me.

 

[brumbrum]

Could anyone explain what is happening to the capacitors when you do a main sparked plug-in scenario? Why do they not like a large rush of voltage/current? :?

 

[madin88]

Just my 2 cents.

Adaptto offer a controller/BMS and charging coil. One of their primary unique functions is the buck charge capability. What do you need for this function, controller/BMS and the coil. Are you as a prospective buyer thinking, right that's handy lets disconnect/remove all that, bring it into work/house and charge it there as it's going to make life easier for me? No hopefully your not a sadist .

So why the dickens are you wanting to put a precharge setup on a battery that will only be used when the battery is very rarely removed from the bike? Does this count as a high wear item with a spark once every 6-12 months when you upgrade your battery setup?

Once you've everything hooked up you can more or less forget bout it. Use the 'On/Off' wiring supplied to cycle it on and off and leave everything else alone . Obviously there will be some people who have 'just' the controller, but wouldn't it be easier for them to have +/- going to the controller and separate +/- going to 'their' charging system again wouldn't need pre-charge unless your in the bad habit of connecting your charger live...

There will be the odd percent who disconnect the battery, remove it from 'mounts,' re-route cabling etc... to charge and they will need pre-charge/anti spark. However they've missed a perfectly viable function that adaptto supply and are working around it.

Artur and his Vector frames have gallons of space for connecting it all up and leaving it alone, so he has a perfectly valid statement for just using the C63 breaker.

Swim upstream and expect help from 'on high' or go with the flow. Don't make more work for yourself .

You are absolutely correct. Have no idea why someone would need to disconnect battery from controller to charge it if this option perfectly developed in adaptto controller. And I had few times C63 did it job when and how it should, so no reason to search for another solution for me.

Yes, but why than using two parallel C63 brakers if they don't do precharge? Those are not cheap and bulky..

Could anyone explain what is happening to the capacitors when you do a main sparked plug-in scenario? Why do they not like a large rush of voltage/current? :?

the caps are not rated for such high currents which occur if the voltage across is 0V and they see instant battery voltage.
Maybe nothing happens if you do this 20 times or more, but it defintiely is not good for them.

On my Adaptto controllers (and also others) i use the Jeti 5,5mm antispark bullets together with a soldered 150A mini-ANL fuse. Thats much cheaper AND doesn't hurt the caps.
thats a pic of the battery for my Vector (12+10s 11p):

 

[Allex]

Nice setup! But probably a bit annoying if that fuse blows during a long ride?

 

[madin88]

Nice setup! But probably a bit annoying if that fuse blows during a long ride?

that's true, but since i'm building high-power ebikes i never used 150A continuous, and the wires are FAT

 

[Ohbse]

Note that the display is irrelevant to the firmware version - the firmware is on the controller, the display is a 'dumb' device.

If your throttle does not work with you display then you probably have poor soldered connections between the throttle and main display board. There are a number of controllers in this thread that have had similar issues, this can be very easily fixed with a soldering iron by simply touching each connection and ensuring there are no cold joints.

Relevant to Steveo's experiences with breaking the display, mine is VERY strong - despite the relatively small dimensions of the brackets I have no fear of breaking this. Both mine are very strong and feel like exceptionally good quality plastic, I think your controller's faulty unfortunately.

As a general update, my mini-e running unlocked firmware and 6.8kw on a daily basis has had zero issues for now 8000km in current configuration. Running 85a battery limit, 180a phase and 180a regen.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

As a general update, my mini-e running unlocked firmware and 6.8kw on a daily basis has had zero issues for now 8000km in current configuration. Running 85a battery limit, 180a phase and 180a regen.

Yikes! That's some serious power for the little thing. Good to know it's working out for you like that...I hope the same can be true for me once warranty is up and I get a new battery.

What cooling mods have you done to allow that kind of power?

Cheers

 

[Ohbse]

As a general update, my mini-e running unlocked firmware and 6.8kw on a daily basis has had zero issues for now 8000km in current configuration. Running 85a battery limit, 180a phase and 180a regen.

Yikes! That's some serious power for the little thing. Good to know it's working out for you like that...I hope the same can be true for me once warranty is up and I get a new battery.

What cooling mods have you done to allow that kind of power?

Cheers

Big heatsink slapped on the side, barely gets warm. Even stationary charging in a still room at 1.8kw for half an hour barely gets it warm Definitely rolled back power at the end of my 20km journey without the heatsink, but now seems bulletproof.

 

[brumbrum]

Hi folks, help needed.
I cannot get autodetect to work. The motor just shudders. What can i do?
I have done the following in the display programming....
Put in hv and lv cut off limits 84v and 70v , battery is currently at 76v
Done speed ratio
Done watt hours
I've Setup bms, which is reading the cells, all good with this. (Should i try try turning the bms off?)
I have tried both + and - rotation settings and the same happens on both.
Bike is cromotor with 20s 30ah lipo, it was working fine with my lyen controller before hand.

Does the controller have to stay in eco mode for autodetect, or does it not matter?
I have been very meticulous checking the wiring setup when soldering etc. The halls reading was 4.5v or there abouts according to the adappto display iirc.

Please help
Andrew

 

[ozman]

Hi Andrew try changing the wheel direction in settings + or - this worked for me or apply a very small amount of brake pressure while attempting autodetect only a very small amount.
If you have brakes with reed switches disconnect the switches first

 

[brumbrum]

Hi Andrew try changing the wheel direction in settings + or - this worked for me or apply a very small amount of brake pressure while attempting autodetect only a very small amount.
If you have brakes with reed switches disconnect the switches first

Thanks, all ideas are welcomed.
I have tried changing the rotation from + to - but the same thing happened. I will try turning off the regen settings, as i am not using a reed switch, but have a hall sensor and magnet on the brake lever.
Btw i have just rotated the wheel FOWARDS and taken down the following hall sensor sequence. I take it that these are correct?.....

001
011
010
110
100
101
-----
Then back to 001

 

[ozman]

Have you tried swapping two of the phase wires
I dont think turning the regen settings off will make any difference but who knows.
It mentions in the manual that autodetect will be interrupted if you release throttle or activate brake signal.

 

[ridethelightning]

your halls look ok.

dont sweat, theres always potential for some of this crap when getting an adaptto started.

+1 @ swapping a phase wire combo over.

what ever you do, dont try to autodetect with the charge coil attached to the controller/motor.

iv had really crap autodetect like that before, i fixed it by adjusting the settings manually in advanced settings i think.

ang corr, ind timing, pwr timing.

have you got the number of poles correct?

 

[brumbrum]

Ok,...

I have turned off regen setting, just in case.
No coil being used, not plugged in.
It maybe that i just need to try for a bit longer on the throttle itself, as after about five seconds of shuddering i release the throttle, perhaps i just need to go with it and see what happens. Other than that i will swap two phase wires over.
Also, i have not tried calibrating the throttle yet.

 

[brumbrum]

your halls look ok.


have you got the number of poles correct?

Does it ask for the number of poles? Or do you mean for the speed ratio?


For the cro i did 23(pole pairs) divided by 1850mm for the outer circumference of my 17" and tyre. = 80.4

 

[ridethelightning]

your halls look ok.


have you got the number of poles correct?

Does it ask for the number of poles? Or do you mean for the speed ratio?


For the cro i did 23(pole pairs) divided by 1850mm for the outer circumference of my 17" and tyre. = 80.4

yeah. i meant the speed ratio. im not sure but it might make a difference. to be honest, id say its not causing the issues.

 

[ozman]

from manual

If, during the rotation of the motor numbers "y" sometimes takes the value of "0" or other sequence of digits, the hall sensors are not working properly, or motor sensors have an angle of 60 degree angle. (If 60 degrees - then you need to reverse one of the hall sensors in the motor, not all, but a specific sensor) Choose the direction of rotation of the motor. If you rotate the motor forward, the menu "health monitor" values after saying "Halls:" should increase. If the numbers are falling, then change the setting "Hall reverse" or "Direction" 3. Setting the phase combinations. Setting consists of setting the direction of the control of the signal and the phase shift control signal. Change the direction of the motor rotation by changing setting "wire reverse". To determine the correct direction try applying a little throttle. When current is applied to the motor, it may stay at a specific position (or the motor may begin to oscillate, trying to stay in the same position). You may feel a spring effect while trying to force the motor one way or the other from the established position. If the wheel does not rotate there are two possible reasons. a) If you try to spin the motor by hand while applying low power, you may feel the motor trying to turn in the reverse direction at pronounced intervals. If the motor behaves this way, then you need to change the setting "wire reverse". b) If you try to spin the motor by hand while applying low power, and the motor turns very slowly, or if the motor is stationary but feels springy when trying to rotate the motor one direction or the other, it means the setting "wire reverse" is correct and you need to change the setting hall "offset". After the selection of wire reverse choose a Hall offset (total 6 combinations possible), where the motor rotates in the forward direction without using excess power.

 

[Allex]

I have not flashed this controller yet.

Could you flash and report back?
It must have something to do with the firmware because in my case everything worked well BEFORE the update.

What should i do now?
Flashing older FW i have not tried yet, but from what i know it probably doesn't work.

Cant flash right now, changed the PC and the software refuse to accept my SD cards. Always worked without problems with my older PC.

 

[ridethelightning]

from manual

If, during the rotation of the motor numbers "y" sometimes takes the value of "0" or other sequence of digits, the hall sensors are not working properly, or motor sensors have an angle of 60 degree angle. (If 60 degrees - then you need to reverse one of the hall sensors in the motor, not all, but a specific sensor) Choose the direction of rotation of the motor. If you rotate the motor forward, the menu "health monitor" values after saying "Halls:" should increase. If the numbers are falling, then change the setting "Hall reverse" or "Direction" 3. Setting the phase combinations. Setting consists of setting the direction of the control of the signal and the phase shift control signal. Change the direction of the motor rotation by changing setting "wire reverse". To determine the correct direction try applying a little throttle. When current is applied to the motor, it may stay at a specific position (or the motor may begin to oscillate, trying to stay in the same position). You may feel a spring effect while trying to force the motor one way or the other from the established position. If the wheel does not rotate there are two possible reasons. a) If you try to spin the motor by hand while applying low power, you may feel the motor trying to turn in the reverse direction at pronounced intervals. If the motor behaves this way, then you need to change the setting "wire reverse". b) If you try to spin the motor by hand while applying low power, and the motor turns very slowly, or if the motor is stationary but feels springy when trying to rotate the motor one direction or the other, it means the setting "wire reverse" is correct and you need to change the setting hall "offset". After the selection of wire reverse choose a Hall offset (total 6 combinations possible), where the motor rotates in the forward direction without using excess power.

hmmm. is there a "y" showing near the halls digits in health screen?



you should be ok to try a few things, but never try to give it full throttle unless its running smoothly. just keep it at low power.
-changing the phase wires over changes the hall offset. 120/60/180deg/ etc. this might have an improvement.[note] some combos seem to give better efficiency/smoothness.
- angle corr setting in advanced settings. play around and see if the wheel will turn smoother.
-try to change WIRE REVERSE

Here is the values set on my original cromotor:
regen setup-> Torque rise 0111
min speed -> 003
traction settings ->pwm rise lim 0080
->spd smooth 20000
Advanced setup ->PWR timing 1.42
->PWR timing2 1.41
->OVS 003
->Wire R 092
->Motor KV 06632
->Wire R phc yes

try using these values and see if the wheel spins on normal mode(not autodetect)

 

[bigbore]

Ok,...

I have turned off regen setting, just in case.
No coil being used, not plugged in.
It maybe that i just need to try for a bit longer on the throttle itself, as after about five seconds of shuddering i release the throttle, perhaps i just need to go with it and see what happens. Other than that i will swap two phase wires over.
Also, i have not tried calibrating the throttle yet.

I had the same issue when I tried autodetect the first time and solved it simply holding the throttle at WOT during the first seconds.

 

[brumbrum]

@RTL, i have tried a a couple of differing phase combos and still the same. I either get a stalled stuttering, or just a faint electrical noise in the motor. The closest i got was a wheel running backwards in a slow very grumpy way, so it ried to swap from + to - rotation with the same phase combo but nothing.
I will have to check for a 'y'. I will play around with some of the values you have put up this evening.

@bigbore, i have been pulling full throttle at every try as i thought this is what it says to do in the manual. I did not realise i would be putting the same stresses into the motor as when setting up another kind of controller and getting the combos wrong I just thought that the adappto controller would control those kind of issues if doing an autodetect. :| there is no way of seeing what amps are being pulled when doing an autodetect.

I have got a spare set of halls on the cro and with my limited fore thought /wisdom i have got myself a spare 6 pin IP68 connector which i will try and solder to the spare halls later. But i does feel as if its a phase issue.

Any more suggestions more than welcome

 

[Allex]

You need to try with another set of halls first.
Then of course you need to hold the throttle at WOT