Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Cowardlyduck]

I did have an old stock core 2 quad Intel CPU cooler on there, but it wasn't doing a very good job, so I just removed it and attached 12 small heat-sinks to the underside of my Mini-E using thermal epoxy.

Together with the heat-sinks on the sides, I think my Mini-E should be fine with 100A when I get around to making a better battery.

I also just ordered more fans to attach to the sides again. I removed them previously as they were too loud, but I've bough some quieter one's now. I need the fans more to drop the voltage seen by the fans in my motor than for actual cooling as I'm planning on going to 18S from 12S soon.

Cheers

 

[Mammalian04]

Might be tough keeping mud out of those fins...

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Might be tough keeping mud out of those fins...

Shouldn't be. It's not obvious in that photo, but the curved piece of plastic to the left is my secondary mud flap folded out of the way. This photo shows it nicely.

I got sick of my controller/cables getting covered in mud so added it to the underside of my frame using a few of the old controller mounting holes.
I've had this on since I mounted my Mini-E and it's done a really great job of keeping it clean while still allowing good air flow.
It also moves out of the way really easily when I mount rocks/logs/stairs etc, so not a problem.

Cheers

 

[Mammalian04]

Nicely done!

 

[chucho]

Anyone has the "legal" max e last software that needs password to go out ecomode

 

[brumbrum]

Hi folks,
Q.1 I am setting up my regen brake with ss49e linear hall sensor. I have done the calibration limits and the hall sensor signal tops out at 3v when moved away from magnet. is this normal?

Q.2 On an unloaded run the regen kicks in when pulling brake lever until i get to full speed/WOT 48mph and at this point the regen does not work. Anyone have any ideas why the braking stops working at this point?
Btw, my throttle tops oit at 4v at WOT, could there be a relationship between the two?

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Willow]

Hi folks,
Q.1 I am setting up my regen brake with ss49e linear hall sensor. I have done the calibration limits and the hall sensor signal tops out at 3v when moved away from magnet. is this normal?

Q.2 On an unloaded run the regen kicks in when pulling brake lever until i get to full speed/WOT 48mph and at this point the regen does not work. Anyone have any ideas why the braking stops working at this point?
Btw, my throttle tops oit at 4v at WOT, could there be a relationship between the two?

Cheers
Andrew

dont worry about the voltage of the signal - just by setting the limits you are calibrating it to your voltage range. I would say your regen stops because you are running at a full charge and the cell voltage you have set in the BMS is triggering a cut-off because the cell is rising in voltage - past the HVC.

 

[brumbrum]

Hi folks,
Q.1 I am setting up my regen brake with ss49e linear hall sensor. I have done the calibration limits and the hall sensor signal tops out at 3v when moved away from magnet. is this normal?

Q.2 On an unloaded run the regen kicks in when pulling brake lever until i get to full speed/WOT 48mph and at this point the regen does not work. Anyone have any ideas why the braking stops working at this point?
Btw, my throttle tops oit at 4v at WOT, could there be a relationship between the two?

Cheers
Andrew

dont worry about the voltage of the signal - just by setting the limits you are calibrating it to your voltage range. I would say your regen stops because you are running at a full charge and the cell voltage you have set in the BMS is triggering a cut-off because the cell is rising in voltage - past the HVC.

Thanks, thats a good call, but my hvc is set to 84v and my battery voltage is at 76v.
I am worried about the hall signal being so low because i am afraid it will make the brake quite severe/aggressive as the x-y coordinate in brake limits going from 1v to 3v Is a steep line. For instance if this was the throttle it would be quite 'pokey'.
Maybe i need to look at the profile setting (eco/normal/boost) for phase regen setting??

 

[Jonboy]

Hi all I have a small niggle with my throttle.. I'm running variable regen al works great but at low throttle / slow speed im getting a small amount of braking before the throttle starts. I don't get brake come up on the screen & once rolling, say 5-10mph no problem? Any ideas?
Tried switching regen off to btw

Thanks

Jon

In the settings it says "minimum speed". You have to change from 5mph /kmph to 0. Then it will always start. You´re welcome

Thanks for your reply, but I think you misunderstood the problem.. I tried what you said just incase, but the problem persists.

Anybody out there have an idea? I've switched regen off too.. and tried lots off throttle / brake end points..... :?

thnx

Hi all
This problem has worsend over the passed few days, the braking effect has become even more at low throttle positions.
Last night it became so bad that the bike would not pull away it would apply a braking effect with the throttle. I'd have to peddle upto 15+mph give it some throttle then it would change from braking to motor power, I had to keep the speed up to get home...

Anyone?

 

[brumbrum]

Hiya Jon
Has the hot weather changed any hall sensor signals in the throttle or brake calibration - just a guess?
also, as I found out, even with regen switched off the hall sensor still sends a signal to the controller, so worst case scenario could be to snip off the brake hall sensor and see if that cures it? but that's more faffing.
btw, you are going to laugh at my brake hall sensor glue job...... hot glue gun and a lot of melted glue :lol:

 

[GmagNeato]

Hi all I have a small niggle with my throttle...."

"Hi all
This problem has worsend over the passed few days, the braking effect has become even more at low throttle positions.
Last night it became so bad that the bike would not pull away it would apply a braking effect with the throttle. I'd have to peddle upto 15+mph give it some throttle then it would change from braking to motor power, I had to keep the speed up to get home...

Anyone?

If the brake hall sensor is somehow activating, I would think it would disable the throttle all together as well as showing "Brake" on the display. But I would probably still cut that brake line as Brum suggested just to eliminate that possibility, and to install a three pin connector there while you've got it cut. If the problem persists, which I think it will, then reconnect it and examine the settings with a fine tooth comb. I'm still learning the system so maybe some of the more experienced could advise if there are any settings that could cause this behavior.

 

[Jonboy]

Tried a different throttle & with no brake hooked up.. Its the same. Im tempted to run an autodetect, just don't want to make the situation worse....

 

[brumbrum]

I am currently testing my bike and regen settings, on an unloaded run the regen kicks in when pulling brake lever until i get to full speed/WOT 48mph and at this point the regen does not work. Anyone have any ideas why the braking stops working at this point?

HVC is set to 84v and battery is currently 76v but display is showing 100% charged. I have configured the bms and all cells are reading correctly at around 3.80. I have not taken the bike out for a test run yet, is the SOC likely to change to correct percentage when in use? Just wondering if this could be the cause of the above issue?

 

[GmagNeato]

I am currently testing my bike and regen settings, on an unloaded run the regen kicks in when pulling brake lever until i get to full speed/WOT 48mph and at this point the regen does not work. Anyone have any ideas why the braking stops working at this point?

HVC is set to 84v and battery is currently 76v but display is showing 100% charged. I have configured the bms and all cells are reading correctly at around 3.80. I have not taken the bike out for a test run yet, is the SOC likely to change to correct percentage when in use? Just wondering if this could be the cause of the above issue?

Hi Brum just a thought but you may already know or have tried all this... To troubleshoot try setting the HVC higher at say 90v. Then see if the display still shows 100% charged. If it doesn't, then see if the problem still occurs at max speed WOT. If it doesn't then you should be able to eliminate the issue by doing a reset in the statistics screen after fully charging the battery. From the manual:

"Page 18 SECTION 2. USER GUIDE
No - Exit reset screen with no changes
Yes - Resets the statistics without resetting the current value of the battery
charge. Used to reset the odometer, the speedometer and information for the
last trip
Set Full Charge - Resets the current battery level (SOC) at 100 percent.
Apply this setting after a full charge, if you do not use E-BMS module or if
BMS balancing option is disabled.
Reset and Set Full Charge - Resets statistics and also resets battery level
(SOC) to 100%.
Pressing Down displays general statistics:"

Once you fully charge your battery the first time and do a "Reset and Set Full Charge" or "Set Full Charge" the Adaptto battery charge gauge should be calibrated correctly and you should be good to go. Hope this helps!

 

[GmagNeato]

Tried a different throttle & with no brake hooked up.. Its the same. Im tempted to run an autodetect, just don't want to make the situation worse....

May want to hold off on the autodetect in case there is a wiring short, which if it is getting worse could be a possibility. Are your ActiveMode and Forced Active modes in regen settings enabled or disabled?

 

[Merlin]

*delete* found it ...

 

[brumbrum]

I am currently testing my bike and regen settings, on an unloaded run the regen kicks in when pulling brake lever until i get to full speed/WOT 48mph and at this point the regen does not work. Anyone have any ideas why the braking stops working at this point?

HVC is set to 84v and battery is currently 76v but display is showing 100% charged. I have configured the bms and all cells are reading correctly at around 3.80. I have not taken the bike out for a test run yet, is the SOC likely to change to correct percentage when in use? Just wondering if this could be the cause of the above issue?

Hi Brum just a thought but you may already know or have tried all this... To troubleshoot try setting the HVC higher at say 90v. Then see if the display still shows 100% charged. If it doesn't, then see if the problem still occurs at max speed WOT. If it doesn't then you should be able to eliminate the issue by doing a reset in the statistics screen after fully charging the battery. From the manual:

"Page 18 SECTION 2. USER GUIDE
No - Exit reset screen with no changes
Yes - Resets the statistics without resetting the current value of the battery
charge. Used to reset the odometer, the speedometer and information for the
last trip
Set Full Charge - Resets the current battery level (SOC) at 100 percent.
Apply this setting after a full charge, if you do not use E-BMS module or if
BMS balancing option is disabled.
Reset and Set Full Charge - Resets statistics and also resets battery level
(SOC) to 100%.
Pressing Down displays general statistics:"

Once you fully charge your battery the first time and do a "Reset and Set Full Charge" or "Set Full Charge" the Adaptto battery charge gauge should be calibrated correctly and you should be good to go. Hope this helps!

Thanks, i will try raising the HVC as suggested, good idea!
. I really need to get the bike on the road this weekend and see how the whole thing performs under load.

 

[GmagNeato]

iam not sure, its like a dejavu....but i started to setup a midi-e now and throw up about the 2014 manual....

the hall sensor connector in this manual had 7 pins.
the midi-e i got has only a 6 pin connector....

can some adaptto guru help out here?

Hi Merlin. No guru here, but I had the same problem. The connector on the controller was 7 pin and the one I received in the little bag of connectors was 6 pin. I think that they switched from 6 to 7 at some point or vice versa and didn't switch all the ones in the bags of connectors to match. You have a few options but here's what I did.

I bought one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181489018027?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You could use any water proof/resistant connector though really with at least 6 pins. The center pin of the 7 pin connector is not used, but I decided to stay with 7 so that I had the extra connection point just in case I ever need it.

 

[askiller]

Hello folks
I am changing my sabvoton controller for the adaptto max-e.
After opening my engine to install the temp sensor, I got little confused about the hall wires. Can any of you tell me if my assumptions are correct?
Yellow wire = hall signal 1
Blue wire= hall signal 2
Green wire hall signal 3
Black= -
Red = +
I hope you can help me.

 

[Jonboy]

Tried a different throttle & with no brake hooked up.. Its the same. Im tempted to run an autodetect, just don't want to make the situation worse....

May want to hold off on the autodetect in case there is a wiring short, which if it is getting worse could be a possibility. Are your ActiveMode and Forced Active modes in regen settings enabled or disabled?

Did an autodetect, got a halls 2 error a couple of times then a halls 1 (don't know what that is about) swapped to the spare halls on the cro, all just about the same then swapped back and it did an auto.. bike works now but still have the problem. Both ActiveMode and Forced Active modes are NO

 

[Jonboy]

Hello folks
I am changing my sabvoton controller for the adaptto max-e.
After opening my engine to install the temp sensor, I got little confused about the hall wires. Can any of you tell me if my assumptions are correct?
Yellow wire = hall signal 1
Blue wire= hall signal 2
Green wire hall signal 3
Black= -
Red = +
I hope you can help me.

I would say so, but that's if the arrangement of the hall wires going into that small board are the same entering the sensors..

 

[Jonboy]

Tried a different throttle & with no brake hooked up.. Its the same. Im tempted to run an autodetect, just don't want to make the situation worse....

May want to hold off on the autodetect in case there is a wiring short, which if it is getting worse could be a possibility. Are your ActiveMode and Forced Active modes in regen settings enabled or disabled?

Did an autodetect, got a halls 2 error a couple of times then a halls 1 (don't know what that is about) swapped to the spare halls on the cro, all just about the same then swapped back and it did an auto.. bike works now but still have the problem. Both ActiveMode and Forced Active modes are NO

After reading 2.3.3 jolt felt.... section in the manual I've just set wire r phc to yes... And the bike is now smooth as silk with no odd braking issue.. What is this feature?

 

[Merlin]

i wished i can give an answer but iam bloody new to this adaptto.

atm iam fighting with firmware upgrade and some weird showings of the display.

the update tool reports a error 95 ( i started the tool as an administrator)

and display shows me some 10-20-30-40w usings without touching the throttle.
and on spiining motor there are "blink" sometimes all left "field" on

[youtube]Upjd9yPL-J4[/youtube]

 

[GmagNeato]

After reading 2.3.3 jolt felt.... section in the manual I've just set wire r phc to yes... And the bike is now smooth as silk with no odd braking issue.. What is this feature?

This is from the Adaptto menu supplement:
"Wire R PHC - The use of an alternative algorithm for calculating the phase current. Allows you to calculate the current even at zero cycle of the PWM that is required for proper zero crossing at work reverse braking. Important: when this setting is turned off, the motor KV will be sensed automatically if the motor spins up to medium speed and the throttle is released. After you enable this setting, automatic motor KV sensing does not occur.
Motor KV 05512 KV motor. Measured in arbitrary units. Determined automatically during the motor auto-detect process."

Glad that solved your problem. I'm sure Adaptto support can elaborate on what this setting does and/or any repercussions. I would think at least you can't use ActiveMode for regen with this setting turned on.

 

[Jonboy]

I did see that info later.. not that I totally understand it... I did another auto detect with the feature switched on. All good, im on the hill as I tx.
What does active mode do?