Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[brumbrum]

Yep, i have a left handed thumb throttle for regen. Its great. Maybe i have the limits on the beers. Will check

What do you have the 'IprA' (regen phase current) set to on your profile setup page? This has the most effect to the strength of regen.

 

[GmagNeato]

Can anyone help with this...

My charge screen always shows 100% when charging and therefore there is no estimation of charging time.
I am wondering too if this stops or alters the charging sequence from going into CV mode as the battery reaches its end sequence of charging.
I think it happens once the controller has been turned off after a ride.
Does anyone know how to get around this?

Just to try and cover all the bases have you done a "full charge reset" after charging your pack all the way? I believe you press up from the stats screen and select an option.

 

[brumbrum]

Can anyone help with this...

My charge screen always shows 100% when charging and therefore there is no estimation of charging time.
I am wondering too if this stops or alters the charging sequence from going into CV mode as the battery reaches its end sequence of charging.
I think it happens once the controller has been turned off after a ride.
Does anyone know how to get around this?

Just to try and cover all the bases have you done a "full charge reset" after charging your pack all the way? I believe you press up from the stats screen and select an option.

Yes, i always set 'reset and full charge' as soon as the pack has charged. After a ride the battery status shows correct percentage and still does after switching the controller off and on. It seems to happen as soon as i switch on the charger. So as an example, the battery gauge says 50% after a ride but when i plug in the charger it then says 100%. The bike charges fine so it is not a big concern, but just thought there maybe something i am missing somewhere which makes the battery gauge on the main screen and on the charge screen do this.

 

[Swe]

Thanks will check your settings later.
Yes it is the display value that says 10-12km/h and that value feels correct.

I have only tested a few times but I think the watts even increase a little bit (50W?) when a try pedeal but feel resistance from motor.
This is the speed I have on the final part of auto calibration. Does that sound correct or should the speed at the end be like 100% of max speed?
Maybe I will open up the motor and check a little... But can only check more next week. But any suggestions are welcome anyway.

Now it works! I have not done anything besides opening up the motor to remove a sound from the bearings but dont think that was the cause. I can confirm my question that yes, under auto calibration the motor should spin up to 100% (felt like it anyway).
Edit: the manual says full speed too so...

I am using a 36V battery now. Do I have to do a new auto calibration when I change to 48V battery?

 

[DasDouble]

@All I have following question:

I have a 1.8kWh LiPo Battery with a Max-E Controller. So when I bought everything together and mounted everything I always thought I could get my max current (4kW peak) instandly. But this is not so. When I accellerate, the displays show that the motor gets slowly to the 4kW. But this 4kW Power gets only arrived when Im like at 45 km/h or something like that. So when I for example am stuck in the mud, in the middle of the forest, I firstly would have to get to higher speeds / rpm´s to get out of the mud / to use the full 4kW. Can I change that somehow?

I want to be able to accellerate extremly fast with "only" 4 Kilowatts and want to be able to reach them even when I am at like 0 km/h to be able to drive in mud etc.

I would really apprechiate your help!!!

Elias

 

[brumbrum]

Off the top of my head...
Make sure throttle progression is set to zero.
Make sure traction settings are off.
Make sure your phase amp limit is nice and high.

 

[mudale222]

oh no no no no nonono!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jesus Christ! i'm thinking i burnt my max-e!!
i unplugged the bms and the wires ripped on the controller side because adaptto put silicone between them to insulate.
so 3 wires ripped from the connector and i soldered them back, first time the display say bms error and in bms setup - connector error or something like that, than i flipped 2 wires in the bms connector and solder them and now the display won't go on....
i cutted all the bms wires and disconnect it and still no display!!! blat
any ideas???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
i'm still getting spark when connecting the plus and minus of battery so i'm thinking that maybe still a circuit?!?!
(and everything was so good!! all run good - motor match,ebrake......., just waited for tires and then move apartment so have to unplug everything and this happens )

 

[Merlin]

@All I have following question:

I have a 1.8kWh LiPo Battery with a Max-E Controller. So when I bought everything together and mounted everything I always thought I could get my max current (4kW peak) instandly. But this is not so. When I accellerate, the displays show that the motor gets slowly to the 4kW. But this 4kW Power gets only arrived when Im like at 45 km/h or something like that. So when I for example am stuck in the mud, in the middle of the forest, I firstly would have to get to higher speeds / rpm´s to get out of the mud / to use the full 4kW. Can I change that somehow?

I want to be able to accellerate extremly fast with "only" 4 Kilowatts and want to be able to reach them even when I am at like 0 km/h to be able to drive in mud etc.

I would really apprechiate your help!!!

Elias

i thought i wrote allready....looks like the sphere has some black holes

so here again:

plz post all your settings...make screenshots or write down all settings from your
"boost mode" + advanced settings, throttle and may everything.

 

[notger]

@All I have following question:

I have a 1.8kWh LiPo Battery with a Max-E Controller. So when I bought everything together and mounted everything I always thought I could get my max current (4kW peak) instandly. But this is not so. When I accellerate, the displays show that the motor gets slowly to the 4kW. But this 4kW Power gets only arrived when Im like at 45 km/h or something like that. So when I for example am stuck in the mud, in the middle of the forest, I firstly would have to get to higher speeds / rpm´s to get out of the mud / to use the full 4kW. Can I change that somehow?

I want to be able to accellerate extremly fast with "only" 4 Kilowatts and want to be able to reach them even when I am at like 0 km/h to be able to drive in mud etc.

I would really apprechiate your help!!!

Elias

in my expreience the Traction control made similar symtoms, so as long as you do not ride on ice, you can turn traction off, and get full power at throttle-up.

notger

 

[litespeed]

So I've read and read....more confused now then ever.

On a Max E and 3.5T QS 205 running 20s and planning on running lots of power through it which breaker should I use? A single 63, two 63 in parrallel, two different brands of 63's in series or different size by it self?

So confused when I should know exactly what I need.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[gensem]

So I've read and read....more confused now then ever.

On a Max E and 3.5T QS 205 running 20s and planning on running lots of power through it which breaker should I use? A single 63, two 63 in parrallel, two different brands of 63's in series or different size by it self?

So confused when I should know exactly what I need.

Thanks,

Tom

A class C 63a on negative and positive should be enough.

 

[litespeed]

So to clairify one on the negative side and one on the positive? If so, got it.

Thanks.

Tom

 

[SUNDRIVE]

Adaptto's recommendation for the MaxE is 2 x 63A paralleled on the one pole(positive). But one 63A in each pole will still only give the current rating of one breaker. However, using two breakers paralleled takes up a fair bit of real estate in the battery box so I used a slightly smaller (ie 1.5 modules rather than 2) single pole 100A AC breaker. Still not convinced that an AC breaker will break a big fat DC arc without burning its contacts a bit each time. The brand "Noark" available in Australia make some good LV DC breakers, they are good for up to 600V DC, so a bit over the top for our battery Voltages.
JB

 

[Allex]

Coming from Adaptto, this is how you choose a correct C-rating for your system:
Calculate the maximum current that your battery can deliver (better take the continuous rating)
Divide this value by 5
The number you get is the breaker you will need
If you have a 14p pack with 25r you get 14*20A=280, 280/5=56
If you cannot find a breaker with such C-rating, make sure you get one that does not exceed the C-rating by +/-20% of the above final value (56)

If you don’t fallow above rule you can potentially burn your controller.

 

[notger]

Like i already told before i use a e-t-a DC breaker with 60 Amps and a K1-character, and it works perfect.
http://www.e-t-a.at/fileadmin/user_...ik/3_pdf_magn_hydr/3_pdf_deutsch/D_8345_D.pdf

sure they are a bit more expensive than AC breakers, but small and made for that purpose

Notger

 

[GmagNeato]

I use one C63 breaker on my battery positive. It's only popped once when I was riding with another adult on my bike up a hill. So I know it works. Aside from that I ride as hard as I want every day, and I've hit 13.8kw so far using locked firmware so I don't feel like it's limiting me at all. I would think 2 in parallel would allow far to high current/voltage spike potential. I also added a precharge resistor circuit with mine using a 10w 150ohm resistor and momentary switch, although I rarely turn the breaker off. The controller barely uses any power at idle as far as I can tell.

 

[Merlin]

i have asked Adaptto (Oleg) about the breakers....
his Answer:




Hello,

it is absolutely right, one circuit breaker is sufficient.
However we faced an increasing number of controller failures because of faulty or incorrectly operating breakers recently.
Considering this it is worth installing two circuit breakers (of different brands if possible) in order to ensure more protection.
Best regards,

quote myself from Site 148

On a midi i would go with one.
but with latest firmware you see up to 210 amps from your battery.
i have installed now 2 different breaker. they share this 200A peaks and i dont think they will trip ever from a normal use. no matter how hot it is.

I would think 2 in parallel would allow far to high current/voltage spike potential.

no, two of them doesnt do anything about voltage peaks.
they are only for current. A failure or Shortcut have above 1000amps.
no matter if one or two...they will trip.

maybe maddin can explain better why it is not good if the breaker trips if you are on full 200 amps.

 

[Altair]

The problem with a breaker abruptly cutting off a circuit in which large currents are circulating, is that the inductance from the motor windings (and also the parasitic inductance from the wiring & circuit) is what will create the voltage spikes that are deadly for the controller. It is a standard behavior of an inductive circuit; when the circuit is suddenly opened while a large current is circulating, the inductor will behave momentarily like a battery and will generate a voltage spike to keep the current flowing. Same principle in a points-type ignition system for an engine.

I don't see a simple solution to the breaker problem, unfortunately.
Maybe some kind of solid-state breaker that would break the circuit by becoming more & more resistive over the span of 100mSec or so, which is long enough to prevent any voltage spike from being generated by the inductances in the circuit.

Altair

 

[DasDouble]

@All I have following question:

I have a 1.8kWh LiPo Battery with a Max-E Controller. So when I bought everything together and mounted everything I always thought I could get my max current (4kW peak) instandly. But this is not so. When I accellerate, the displays show that the motor gets slowly to the 4kW. But this 4kW Power gets only arrived when Im like at 45 km/h or something like that. So when I for example am stuck in the mud, in the middle of the forest, I firstly would have to get to higher speeds / rpm´s to get out of the mud / to use the full 4kW. Can I change that somehow?

I want to be able to accellerate extremly fast with "only" 4 Kilowatts and want to be able to reach them even when I am at like 0 km/h to be able to drive in mud etc.

I would really apprechiate your help!!!

Elias

Well after trying to upload the pictures I made from my Adaptto Display I now have written down all Setups. Maybe someone can help me and tell what to change to solve my problem, described upper wards. I have a QSV3 from Vector and 5s, 2p; 1.8kWh, 16Ah Turnigy LiPo Battery Pack from Hobbyking if someone is interested. 
The minuses (-) mean that this is nothing important. It is written down just like the Adaptto Display actually shows. Thanks for your help..:
Profiles Setup
BOOST: 
Ib A: 51
Ip A: 68
Ipr A: 45
Skph: 80
Acc: 68
Setup
Speed ratio: 65.8
Calibration
Voltage adj: 80.0
Shunt R: 317mOhm
Shunt Z: 0000
Shunt 2: 0.00%
Calibration2
Zero offset: 0.00%
-
-
Thr. Progr.: 0
Calibration3
-
- 
Weight: 45Kg
Int TSensor:KTY84
Regen Setup
Enable: Off
ActiveMode: Yes
ForcedAvtive: Yes
Rated Current: 16.4A
Inversion: No
Smooth: No
PWM Limit: 95.5
SPD Sensor: No
Torqu rise: 0080
Min speed: 005
Amp rise: FC00
Charge Setup
Charge enable: Yes
Charge cutoff: 80.4
Supply Current: 16A
Charge Current: 12A
Supply Voltage drop: 1.19v
Charge Sensor inv.: Yes
Traction Setup
Throttle Mode: TORQUE 
Thr Cruise: ON
PWM rise limit: 0080
SPD Smooth: 26372
TRK: No
TRK dV: 17.9#
TRK dA: 0002
PWM rise: 00000
LS enable: OFF
LS current: 38.4A
LS start: 0.00kmph
HS start: 1kmph
2WD enable: OFF
2WD backwards: OFF
Slave off at: 08kmph
BMS Halls fix: No
SLESS acc: 012
ACC off on BRK: No
Backw. Speed: 009H
Slave No: 0000
Advanced Setup
Angle correc: +17.0*
Angle correct2: +0.00*
Ind timing: 0462uS
PWR timing: 1.42
PWR timing2: +0.51
OVS timing: 002*
Termosensor: Yes
Motor TSens: KTY81
T* Limit: 125*C
HallsOffset: 300*
HallsInverse: 0000
HallsReverse:Yes
Wire Reverse: No
Wire R. mOhm: 75
Motor kV: 09809
Wire R PHC: Yes
Control Methode: SINE
ADDNZ: 05
-
Setup
--
--
EXT SPD ratio: 010.8
BMS Setup
BMS enable: Yes
--
Battery AH: 16Ah
Battery WH: 917Wh (I have no idea how I came to this number, but that's just what my last settings said)
Dischg cuttoff: 64v
Clear remain: No
High v cutoff: 81.9v
Voltage soft limit: 000.2v
Volt Menu
Cell Chemistry: Custom
Maximum: 4.100v
Minimum: 3.110v
Balancing: 4.020v
Critical: 3.000v
Thank you for your help! )

 

[Allex]

Do a video of your settings next time and upload to youtube, much faster and easier.
First of all:
BOOST:
Ib A: 51
Ip A: 68
Ipr A: 45
Skph: 80
Acc: 68

What the hell is this, some kind of granny set up?
I don't know what motor you have, but driving around with phase amps at 68? I had this low for my kids scooter
And Acceleration is set at about slowest setting?
Max-e controller in boost settings should have something like:

BOOST:
Ib A: >100
Ip A: >250
Ipr A: >70
Skph: >80
Acc limit: set it to off, to ---


Second, double check your angle corr settings +17 seem much, should be around -5/+5

 

[brumbrum]

Granny alert! :lol:
From a quick scan of your settings the most obvious things stopping you getting good acceleration are in your profile setting..
IbA: if you have 16ah mulistars and have a 16ah pack these are capable of a 4C discharge without breaking a sweat so turn this up to 64. If you are running two of the 16ah in parrallel as in 32ah pack then you could double the 64.
IpA: put this up to about 250
Acc:68, change this to ---

For stronger regen braking you also need to turn up the IprA , try 200, but seeing that you have regen enable OFF i am guessing you are not using regen.

There are other values that i would not be happy with having in my setup, but i do not have the time to go through them at present, such as angle corr at 17*

 

[brumbrum]

Looks like Allex beat me to it, but similar setting recommendations :wink:

 

[GmagNeato]

Das, as Brum and Allex have said the settings you have are really conservative for sure. But please describe your battery pack in more detail to properly calculate what your max settings can/should be?

You say "5s, 2p; 1.8kWh, 16Ah Turnigy LiPo Battery Pack from Hobbyking". 5s 2p would be 18 volts nominal. Is your battery pack only one Multistar brick or do you have several of these connected together to form a bigger pack?

Do you mean to say that you have FIVE Multistar 4s 16AH packs connected in series (5 bricks total)? This would be 74v nominal and 16AH (1344 whrs fully charged)..

Or are you saying that you have 5s 2p of these 4s Multistar packs (10 bricks total)? That would be 74v and 32AH (2688 whrs fully charged).

How are you coming up with 1.8kwh capacity because either way it doesn't add up to this?

The multistars have a 10c continuous 20c burst rating. I would probably derate and take the 10c as max burst, and around 3c-4c max continuous. So even if you only have 16AH pack, you should be able to set your Ipb (battery amps) to max (up to 160amps) and it wouldn't stress your battery too bad because it should only operate at these high amps for a few seconds (burst) most of the time. Now if you find that you are really hammering it and operating at 100+ amps a lot and for more than a few seconds then I would probably reduce the max amps to a more conservative level (say around 80amps) to help protect your batteries from your lead foot (lead hand/wrist/thumb?). Either way make sure to monitor your pack during and after rides, monitor voltage for sag, check the temp of the batteries immediately after a hard ride - they will let you know when they're not happy!

 

[brumbrum]

The multistar 4s 16ah bricks were tested by icecube57 as being able to sustain a 4C discharge without significant voltage drop and also be able to stay above 3.6v for the whole discharge and get the full 16ah capacity from them.
The 4s 10ah multistars (which i have) did not fair quite as well with a recommendation of 2.5C discharge from icecube when he did extensive tests with them.

 

[GmagNeato]

The multistar 4s 16ah bricks were tested by icecube57 as being able to sustain a 4C discharge without significant voltage drop and also be able to stay above 3.6v for the whole discharge and get the full 16ah capacity from them.
The 4s 10ah multistars (which i have) did not fair quite as well with a recommendation of 2.5C discharge from icecube when he did extensive tests with them.

So the 4C discharge would be continuous, no? Momentary bursts should allow higher c rating. For instance, I have my Boost settings maxed out. Even when I'm riding pretty hard, my average amps are around 50-60. When I'm accelerating up to speed (for just a few seconds ) it does exceed 100amps but then drops right back down to the 30-50 range to maintain, depending on that cruise speed and the incline. So terrain is also another big factor when choosing these settings/limitations.