Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Jonboy]

Evening.. I got a problem....

Switched on max e and left and right buttons don't work.. the bike this unit is ha seen Very little moisture.. btw pulled the screen apart hoping for ribbon misalignment, cleaned it back together
. Just the same.. gutting, just as I'm using more & more.. any thoughts!!


Many thanks

Jon

 

[sn0wchyld]

Hoping someone can help... this has probably been answered somewhere in teh 200 odd pages so appologies for the repitition...

dusted off my old maxe (v1) and setup with a mixusv3. Working great, but only with the BMS set to OFF. soon as i turn it on any notable power makes the power shudder and BMS flash on the screen. All the cell level and pack level voltages are set very conservatively (ie low) at around 3v a cell, pack doesn't sag below 3.6 odd in its current state of charge. cant work out whats up,and hoping someone can offer some clues? its worked fine in the past just not with the current setup (18s 30ah hobby lipo).

thanks.

 

[bigbore]

All the cell level and pack level voltages are set very conservatively (ie low) at around 3v a cell,

You should explain some more what does it mean or post a picture of the BMS setup

 

[croydon]

guys any news from adaptto with the new controller design ? still waiting for replacement for my sabvoton.

 

[Offroader]

guys any news from adaptto with the new controller design ? still waiting for replacement for my sabvoton.

Looks like adaptto is finished, but a new controller company is taking its place now called Nucular. There are threads about it on this forum.

 

[croydon]

guys any news from adaptto with the new controller design ? still waiting for replacement for my sabvoton.

Looks like adaptto is finished, but a new controller company is taking its place now called Nucular. There are threads about it on this forum.

nha i do not think so , so nucular had not that big strong controller and the skills that adaptto has on programming.

 

[Merlin]

what skills do you mean? not working or overheating on mids? worst support on planet? or drowning even in fog?
for now N12f and 200 battery amps is max-e 18fet territory on half size =)
no charge coil needed....and i was some of the lucky guys who never had issues.

but, well, even none of that points would be true.....at least nucular has something for sale

 

[j bjork]

The 12fet may not be better when it comes to power, that is why a 24fet is coming..
I don´t have any experince with adaptto, but it seems like many people have had problems with setting it up, and many had problems with quality.
Much is not known with nucular so far, but it seems like it can very well be better on most things.

 

[Merlin]

depends what you are expecting or what bike you are using.

200 Battery amps was looooong years state of the art. Open Firmware Sabvotons, Max-e Adaptto, Kelly KLS....
of course not for a motorcycle build but for this size and 12f you will not find competitors you are able to push 15kw on a 20s Battery.

15Kw on a 50Kg bike is not that bad

 

[icherouveim]

depends what you are expecting or what bike you are using.

200 Battery amps was looooong years state of the art. Open Firmware Sabvotons, Max-e Adaptto, Kelly KLS....
of course not for a motorcycle build but for this size and 12f you will not find competitors you are able to push 15kw on a 20s Battery.

15Kw on a 50Kg bike is not that bad

Can it really go up to 200 Battery amps ?
At the first page of the Nucular threat it say:
Battery max~150A
is it wrong ?

 

[Merlin]

yes. its not up2date.
it does 200a battery and 250a phase.

150 was the first series. ill asked vasily about and he found better FETs and what he ships now has 200A

 

[icherouveim]

yes. its not up2date.
it does 200a battery and 250a phase.

150 was the first series. ill asked vasily about and he found better FETs and what he ships now has 200A

Wow this is even better!! Great news, so the one I will get will support 200A!
So then I have to build a new battery pack with Samsung 30T cells to support this kind of power :lol:

 

[DasDouble]

With 18650 cells you really should hardly ever need to balance.

Only if theyre new.....got 15000 km on my Raptor battery out of samsung 25r and yes they drift more and more.
At some point the adaptto bms cant catch up with the drift and you have to do it manually from time to time.
2019-01-14-00-31-57.jpg

What do you mean by "manually"? Can you do it via the software of Adapto or do you mean with cables and manually charging single series-battery-packs?

 

[HK12K]

I recently purchased a Max-E equipped bike and have been doing my due diligence getting to know the intricacies of the system. At the moment however one thing currently has me a bit stumped and I was hoping you fine folks could educate me a bit.

At idle the watt meter on the adaptto display shows -40w to -50w and the amp meter shows a negative value as well. This is with no brake or throttle input and no charger connected. Any idea how exactly I might address that?

Forgive me if this has already been covered, but I only recall seeing one mention of a similar instance when I perused this thread earlier and don't recall a resolution being discussed.

 

[brumbrum]

I recently purchased a Max-E equipped bike and have been doing my due diligence getting to know the intricacies of the system. At the moment however one thing currently has me a bit stumped and I was hoping you fine folks could educate me a bit.

At idle the watt meter on the adaptto display shows -40w to -50w and the amp meter shows a negative value as well. This is with no brake or throttle input and no charger connected. Any idea how exactly I might address that?

Forgive me if this has already been covered, but I only recall seeing one mention of a similar instance when I perused this thread earlier and don't recall a resolution being discussed.

Go to Calibration in the menu and find 'Zero Offset' , i think this will adjust the current gauge iirc. There are also Shunt values and also voltage adjust in the same menu you can change, cant remember which one does what. Make sure you note down what they are set to before tampering, just in in case :wink:
However, i had the same problem as you and even after turning zero offset right up it still did not sit on zero watts

 

[HK12K]

Excellent, thank you! I fiddled with the zero offset and maxing it at 9 seemed to help a bit, though not completely. Then I fiddled with the shunt calibration and found that maxing it got me closest to zero draw (Though it still flips between zero and -10)

Considering that I have little understanding of what effect these values have on the overall system, is there any drawback to setting the shunt calibration to max as I've done here?

 

[Merlin]

depends on what shunt settings.
you will get wrong readings about your consumtion, power, range etc...

 

[HK12K]

It was the Shunt R miliohm value which I modified. I didn't touch anything else in that submenu aside from the zero offset. Both values are now maxed and the realtime wattage and amperage readouts are closer than before, though not perfect. (-40w to -50w and -.5amp at idle before, to between 0 and -10w and -.2amps at idle currently)

Shunt Z and Shunt 2 were both set to zero. I didn't attempt to modify either as I have no idea of their purpose.

Does it sound like I'm on the right track here, or was modifying the shunt miliohm value all willy nilly a poor decision?

 

[HK12K]

Perhaps I spoke too soon. I just went and had another look and after reverting the shunt resistance to it's original setting it didn't seem to effect the realtime wattage and amperage after all. Unsure why it seemed that way earlier. It's getting late so I will explore further tomorrow.

I did take a moment to see if changing the Shunt Z and Shunt 2 values would have any effect on the situation, but neither seemed to have any noticeable impact, so back to zero they went.

 

[brumbrum]

Perhaps I spoke too soon. I just went and had another look and after reverting the shunt resistance to it's original setting it didn't seem to effect the realtime wattage and amperage after all. Unsure why it seemed that way earlier. It's getting late so I will explore further tomorrow.

I did take a moment to see if changing the Shunt Z and Shunt 2 values would have any effect on the situation, but neither seemed to have any noticeable impact, so back to zero they went.

Just stick to putting the zero offset to 9. Thats what i did, and like you my reading is still slightly out. No big deal. As Merlin has said, the shunt is the fist line of measurement in your system. Probably best not to mess with your yard stick :wink:

 

[HK12K]

Done and done. Thanks fellas, I appreciate the insight.

Here's hoping Adaptto makes a comeback.

 

[cwah]

Is adaptto still on the market? The dealers don't sell it anymore?

 

[brumbrum]

Is adaptto still on the market? The dealers don't sell it anymore?

I think they are no more.

 

[cwah]

Thx. Any idea why? Too many failed controller?

 

[brumbrum]

Thx. Any idea why? Too many failed controller?

I don't know the facts. They were probably overwhelmed with repairs for sure. There were some comments on here saying they were more focused on much higher power applications.