Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Actually looks like I spoke too soon :D

After trying a few firmwares I got it running smoothly on rc-9e in sine mode. Needed like -10 degrees of angle correction though. I'm sure there is still some small improvement to be had. Perhaps this has something to do with why autodetect always throws up a hall error?

Its weird how differently it runs on different firmware versions.
 
crea2k said:
Holy crap, I wouldnt even go outside in that temp let alone ride a bike !, dread to think what the wind chill was !, frostbite in the fingers and face :eek:
Click to expand...

I have a pair of extremely thin Bontrager windshellgloves, I can tie my shoes with them no problem and they're good down to ~45F/7C, I just wear them inside a pair of windproof mitts and I'm toasty. For my face, I wear my regular riding glasses/sunglasses* and a Bontrager balaclava, which has an overlapping flap for the lower half of your face so you can easily wear it under or over your nose/mouth/chin as needed. For my body, I just wear a neoprene-like jacket and then my Marmot PreCip jacket and pants over that. I get a bit of wind on my face but the rest of me is toasty warm. I look forward to avoiding the debacle of gearing up and down though, it's still way faster to ride than take the bus, but with any luck (and Modafinil) I'll be riding in a fully faired velomobile-like rig by next winter... just a matter of time and money.

I've been thinking about getting a helmet like the Shark Raw or probably the Speed and Strength Spin Doctor just for winter riding, but I haven't decided yet. I don't want it to dampen ambient noise like most people do, and I don't know I'd really wear it over 50F. I'd just revert to my bike helmet.

*http://imgur.com/a/pdMh6 are waiting to be used once my Oakleys finally break. And they're on their last leg.

After having the bike out in 10F weather for several hours, I've found that the voltage softlimit has radically improved my peak power in cold weather. Last winter I could only get about 6kw before I risked hitting LVC, but I can get at least 10kw out of my A123 pack even in terribly cold weather. And I haven't even optimized it by trying to lower it from 1V...

I've been thinking about building a 92.4v/78ah pack of 2.9ah 18650's for my next build, which will be a leaning delta FWD velo, but even that wouldn't have the cold weather performance of this A123 pack. I could probably live with .6, .7, or maybe even .5c discharge, I guess. =) Especially since it'll have a narrow track (~30")and great suspension, so lower speeds in pedestrian-rich areas filled with curbs and cracks and tight gaps will be much more manageable.
 
Ahh thats reminded me, iv actually got some inner glove things for skiing that are good for that, might try them on my bike, as motocross gloves are bloody cold once you get up to speed. I just wear lots and lots of layers, so I look like a tank when I go out lol, need to get something to warm my legs and head up though, iv got a full face helmet from my motocross days, but dont really want to wear it on my bike, I just wear a normal bike helmet. lol I cant imagine riding a bike on Modafinil, it makes you too skittish, it does me anyway !.
 
I don't think I'm going to be doing a lot of winter driving. Last year I did some when the temp was around 30's and 40's because I just built my new bike.

I find that 30's (~0 Celsius) is just too cold and not worth it. My fingers go numb after a while to the point I have to stop and heat them up on the motor as I worry about frost bite.

Low 40's (~5's Celsius) is somewhat bearable. But when I get home I have a chill (feel cold) for the rest of the day.

High 40's and higher are OK, and usually the only days I decide to go riding during the winter.

The other issue I have is during the winter everything is usually wet and muddy, the dirt doesn't seem to dry very fast and I am spraying constant mud on everything including myself.


I ordered some heated grips last week to help with the freezing hands and hopefully allow me to wear thinner gloves. I don't like wearing thick gloves because it kills my coordination with controlling the bike.
 
A question if anyone knows.

One of the temp gauge wires going into the Max-E are connected through the ground wire.

My controller is getting shipped back to Adaptto so I may hook up my old Lyen controller.

I'm going to use the same 7 pin connection on my Lyen controller to simplify things.

Would it be OK to hook into my cycle analyst the halls ground connection for one of the temp sensor wires?

Basically I will be sending into the cycle analyst one wire directly off the temp probe, and the other wire would be the halls black ground wire, which also has the other end of the temp probe hooked into it.

Thanks, I always found this odd the way it is hooked up with the Max-E, but I am wondering if I can do the same with my cycle analyst. I know these temp probes work off resistance, so I'm not sure if that will change the value and maybe the Max-E anticipates this difference in resistance.
 
Hey all,
My throttle has stopped responding. I're tried a couple of spares I have but none work.

When in the throttle limits menu, the little indicator line moves up slightly when I plug a throttle in, but then nothing happens when I turn it.

I took off the rubber boot around the connector to check for shorts or a loose connection, but nothing :(

Who should I get in touch with to troubleshoot this issue?
 
You can try putting a resistor in place of the pot to see if it moves, if it does you know its the throttle thats bad and not the controller.
 
Some people have also found that the wires inside the display become unattached, you can undo the 4 screws on the back of the display to check this, you can also turn off the power and check the continuity from the display board pads to the throttle internals, and with the power turned on check that with a multimeter from power to ground on the throttle output to make sure its getting power, I think its 5 volts from memory.
 
Checked the voltage, all fine, check the throttle on another controller, also fine. I'm running out of ideas :(
 
I'm thinking I need to send it off, does anyone know the best email to get in contact with adapt to for this sort of thing?
 
Was it working before ?, as if its not working, it sounds like its not wired up properly, also have you updated the firmware ?, as the old firmware was really shady when it came to the throttle, as mine wouldnt work right either. What throttle is this by the way ?, is it halls or pot ?.
 
Yeah it worked fine before. I didn't even change settings when it stopped working. I've got a couple of hall throttles. I haven't updated the firmware, but I only got mine last week so it's pretty new, shall I update it?
 
Yes I would update it just to be sure, you dont get any messages on the screen like !THR! or anything like that do you ?.
 
Have you tried another throttle , or tried that throttle on another bike ?, as you may have burnt out the halls sensor on the throttle possibly.
 
No no messages, yeah I tried 2 throttles, both of which work on a lien controller. I'll give updating a go tomorrow, thanks crea2k
 
Did you say you had tested the cables ?, as iv seen on the Russian forum members having problems with the cable from the display to the throttle, if the throttle works on other bikes, its either the controller or the cable to the throttle. Id turn off the power and check the continuity from the solder pads inside the display back to where the adappto wiring meets the throttle wiring, stick a probe on the pad inside display and the other on the other end of the cable where it joints the throttle cable and your multimeter should beep if its not broken internally.
 
Hi All,

I love what I read about the Max-E (more quiet, more efficient, BMS, great Display, etc ) and want to get one, but my next build will be a mid-drive.
Motor candidates are sth in the line of the Big Block, or Revolt 120 , Golden, or maybe sth completely Exotic

I am aware of the issue with the Max-E deriving the vehicle-speed-information from the motor and the implications this has (need for Speed sensor).
But from what I have read in various places, this controller does not "like" to run Mid-Drive motors.
Here Allex states: "They does not work well with middrives I heard."
Here: Andrey uses even stronger words: "use of middrive is definitely not recommended for noob! and future firmware upgrade will be necessary to support high RPM for middrive."

Yet some people are planning to use the Max-E with a Revolt e.g. here: "I use the rv-120 from revolt 45kV. I'm waiting for the max-e controller."
There seems to be no general issue that prevents outrunners like the Rotomax to run on a sine-wave controller
anda few posts up,. district9prawn wrote: "After trying a few firmwares I got it running smoothly on rc-9e in sine mode."

In this large community some more people must have tried to get the Max-E running with a mid-drive motor?
I would be happy if they could share their experiences here with some details!

Thank you already!
Ulli
 
Just be patient and wait for the updated controller from them that will be made for mid drivers. They will need to rework the hardware part in it to be compatible with middrives.
No dates yet!
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62345&p=950048#p950048
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62240&p=941120#p941120
 
dockers said:
Hey all,
My throttle has stopped responding. I're tried a couple of spares I have but none work.

When in the throttle limits menu, the little indicator line moves up slightly when I plug a throttle in, but then nothing happens when I turn it.

I took off the rubber boot around the connector to check for shorts or a loose connection, but nothing :(

Who should I get in touch with to troubleshoot this issue?
Click to expand...

Did you cut the whole connector off attached to the controller side? These are really cheap connectors and mine also had issues. I cut the whole connector off and soldered wires directly to my throttle.
 
Seconding offroader. First I'd check the voltages at the throttle, make sure that 5v supply is making it out of the display and to the throttle, and then check the voltage going back through the signal wire. Mine is soldered right to the throttle now because that connector broke, and without a 5v supply for my throttle/brake I had no way to turn off Cruise and I had to ride into a ditch and pull my pack main to avoid getting creamed by a river of cars. They said they're adding functionality to disable cruise control via the display back button for such cases.
 
Allex said:
This is why you almost need to have a regen button it workd like emergency stop as well.
Click to expand...

I would really like an on/off controller switch to shut off the controller ASAP. This has saved me a bunch of times with my old controller when the throttle itself had issues, and also when I got salt water into the throttle which caused a full throttle short.

When my throttle was having issues on the Max-E before I cut off the connector and soldered direct it would sometimes go full throttle for a quick second just by pushing on the wire. I assume +5v got shorted into signal somehow. One time when the throttle stopped working I was really messing with the wires to get it going again and it got stuck full throttle for a few seconds and I did a nice wheelie for a while before I hit the On/off switch on my throttle (cuts the signal wire). I never thought the Max-E could even wheelie my back like that.

Not sure why the on/off switch did anything as I figured the short was before the throttle and on/off switch. I brought this up before that it is crazy to not be able to cut out the controller with a simple switch. That on/off switch on my throttle has saved my ass countless times.
 
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