itchynackers
100 kW
One of the many reasons I abandoned andersons altogether. I just use them for low amp, non-critical applications, and after they are used up, I won't buy more.
Anderson PowerPole question
- Thread starter Eric G
- Start date
Is this between the motor/controller ? or controller/battery ?
Andersons are great imo, it's all about using them properly.
Andersons are great imo, it's all about using them properly.
dumbass
100 kW
I've installed at least 50 power Poles now (all 30a) and have yey had one come loose. And I used to ride some pretty rough bike trails. But this in not to say it can't happen. As you have already been asked "are you sure the pins are in correctly?". And be sure the cables aren't under a strain in th first place. If you still have problem Anderson sells a clamp that can be used to hold everything together for you. Cheap butthe shipping as always will kill you.
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/accessories/110G21-blok-lok-clamp-2-sets.html
Bob
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/accessories/110G21-blok-lok-clamp-2-sets.html
Bob
its between the controller and battery.i got the andersons from powerx.thanks for all the advice.sometimes i hear it click and sometimes i do not.i will check the spring when i find a magnifying glass as my eyes are not as good as they use to be.thanks again.
itchynackers
100 kW
dumbass said:
It's not about the pin, or the clamp. It's about the contact pushing back in the housing after many connect/disconnect cycles. It's also about the housings melting at (or below) their rated current levels. And yes I have the proper crimper.
my anderson powerpole connectors melted on my first ride from the hub motor i recieved from e-bike kit .com. i ordered new connectors from poewrx and e-bike and am still having connection problems.any suggestions are welcome.i would like to say that i had no problems with bullet connectors .all opions are greatly appreciated.thanks
dumbass
100 kW
Someone I have been talking to on IM and the phone had a problem with the connector pins backing out even though he heard the pin click when installed. This was several weeks ago and he finally decided to replace them with a different type of connector that he felt comfortable with. As I mentioned I just did several power pole connections (Maybe 30 to 50). As I did them I tested each one by pulling hard on the wire to see if it could be pulled out. To my supprise I had one connector that would pull out with very little effort. What I found is I bent it slightly upward while crimping in the wire. The wire connector was slightly bent in the middle between the wire and the tip. So I compared it and rebent it to match a new tip. After rebending it I reinstalled it and problem solved. So if your tips are sliding back even when they "click" take a good look at them. The bend I am talking about is in the center of the connector that you insert the wire. You need to bend it (in the center area) so the little bent tip is pointing down with a very slight arc. If it is straight or bent slightly upward it will click in but will be easily pushed out when you insert the matting connector.
Bob
Bob
MadRhino
100 GW
I don't know about the 30A ones that you have, but when many genuine 75A powerpoles are assembled with their side slots, there are holes between each where you can lace a zip tie to secure them solidly.
biohazardman
100 kW
Use the 45 AMP Anderson units on all of my battery to controller connectors had some pull apart also although I found it was they way I routed my wires that was the problem. Once I had that sorted out the problem went away. For quite some time I actually thought I was crimping things together well, but after a couple of failures, I bought the tool so I know all the terminals are crimped right. The 30 AMP units are a bit weak in my book, would never use them for motor, battery or controller connections actually I only use them for the low amp chargers. Things can get bent out of shape, while crimping, before you snap them together as mentioned elsewhere in this post. Mostly use the bullets in my controller to motor connectors where I want things to look stealthy. I have found both Andersons and bullets to be very good when I do my part. It's always best to build it to twice what you need so you don't have problems in the future.
ebent
10 kW
The 2 wires connected by the anderson connectors must have zero tension between the 2. The connectors are not designed to resolve any movement to keep it connected. Is there any slack in the wires? Is there tension pulling the conectors?
itchynackers
100 kW
neptronix said:
Yes! There are just too many "Well if you do this, then they are fine" with the Andersons. Just not worth the hassle. Bullets are fantastic, and have none of the issues that andersons do. Other connectors I've had good luck with are...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9572
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9194
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12887
depending on your current needs.
dogman dan
1 PW
Fussy, you betcha. but versatile, and they take the connection spark well. Once you have say, 50 connectors in a big high voltage pack they can be a pain. I took to taping the housings so they wouldn't unplug themselves if I crashed. But getting the tweak right for a few connectors on a simple ebike is not so hard.
ebent
10 kW
Dogman...what if you taped each wire in place but no tape on the housings. That way you can easily diconect without untapeing. Just a thought.
999zip999
100 TW
At 56v I melted the 30amp. andersons between batt.- con. and the three phase wires. I now use 4mm. bullets for the battery and the andersons on the phase wires. The anderson can be helped by rearching the curve lightly for a stronger contact. Plus it must click in all the way. They are on the weak side.
rscamp
1 kW
FWIW. I've had modellers complain about this from time to time and on inspection discovered some of the contacts were'nt fully inserted...
I don't think Andersons are worth the trouble.
I used to use the fake Deans for Battery and phase with mini Deans for the halls and other low power connections Now I use HK's x60 for charger and battery paralleling and these babies for main power and phase wires. I still think the mini deans are best for low power applications.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5-0mm-male-female-ec5-banana-plugs-w-plastic-housings-pair-72469
$3.70 for a pair (4 connectors) FREE shipping anywhere
I used to use the fake Deans for Battery and phase with mini Deans for the halls and other low power connections Now I use HK's x60 for charger and battery paralleling and these babies for main power and phase wires. I still think the mini deans are best for low power applications.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5-0mm-male-female-ec5-banana-plugs-w-plastic-housings-pair-72469
$3.70 for a pair (4 connectors) FREE shipping anywhere
dumbass
100 kW
MadRhino said:
Yes, but his problem isn't the connectors them self coming apart. He's having a problem with the wire with the clip pulling out of the back of the housing.
Bob
MadRhino
100 GW
I'm not sure to understand, is that the wire pulling out of the terminal (not properly crimped), or the terminal itself pulling out of the housing (not properly locked)?dumbass said:
In any case, I solder and crimp the terminal: Fill the cup with solder, insert wire, then crimp after it's cold.
The housing lock of my 75A Andersons can hold a man suspended on the wire so, if the terminal pulls out it must not be inserted far enough to lock.
Then, I don't know about the smaller ones, or fake Andersons. I use 8 ga wire, the 75A powerpoles are the perfect size, and they never failed under extreme offroad use.
dogman dan
1 PW
The tape was to make positively sure that the connectors didn't unplug themselves during a race. ALL the contacts had previously been adjusted so that they had no chance of pulling out of the housing. It's done now and reliable so I'll live with it till the death of these packs. But if I was to do it again, I'd be using bullets to make paralell adapters. The one nice thing about andersons is they can be connected paralell or series, at your whim. This can result in KFF if you aren't paying attention too. :lol:
dumbass
100 kW
Yes, but his problem isn't the connectors them self coming apart. He's having a problem with the wire with the clip pulling out of the back of the housing.
Bob[/quote]
I'm not sure to understand, is that the wire pulling out of the terminal (not properly crimped), or the terminal itself pulling out of the housing (not properly locked)?
In any case, I solder and crimp the terminal: Fill the cup with solder, insert wire, then crimp after it's cold.
The housing lock of my 75A Andersons can hold a man suspended on the wire so, if the terminal pulls out it must not be inserted far enough to lock.
Then, I don't know about the smaller ones, or fake Andersons. I use 8 ga wire, the 75A powerpoles are the perfect size, and they never failed under extreme offroad use.[/quote]
If I understood the comment made back to me the wire with the clip was pulling out of the housing (not properly locked). And I am guessing he is using real Anderson Power poles. The smaller Power Poles are as I mentioned a bit on the light side so they have to be handled with care. And a small bend can have a major effect. So as even the housing is still connected but the inside terminal clip and wire has slipped out the back of the housing. Bob
Bob[/quote]
I'm not sure to understand, is that the wire pulling out of the terminal (not properly crimped), or the terminal itself pulling out of the housing (not properly locked)?
In any case, I solder and crimp the terminal: Fill the cup with solder, insert wire, then crimp after it's cold.
The housing lock of my 75A Andersons can hold a man suspended on the wire so, if the terminal pulls out it must not be inserted far enough to lock.
Then, I don't know about the smaller ones, or fake Andersons. I use 8 ga wire, the 75A powerpoles are the perfect size, and they never failed under extreme offroad use.[/quote]
If I understood the comment made back to me the wire with the clip was pulling out of the housing (not properly locked). And I am guessing he is using real Anderson Power poles. The smaller Power Poles are as I mentioned a bit on the light side so they have to be handled with care. And a small bend can have a major effect. So as even the housing is still connected but the inside terminal clip and wire has slipped out the back of the housing. Bob
dogman dan
1 PW
Yes. The contact pulling out of the housing is common to many types of connectors.
For 15-35-45 amp andersons the fix is easy, just tweak the nose of the contact downward, to engage the spring better. If re-using housings, you may occasionally need to tweak the spring upward if taking contacts out of the housing has bent the spring down some. The third common problem with andersons coming out of the housing is that a bad crimp never allowed the contact to get far enough in and engage the retention spring. This problem is typical when using too fat wire for the housing, like 10 guage in a 45 amp housing.
For the real skinny on how to handle andersons, look up Ypedals video tutorials. His still pics thread on how to crimp stuff with the cheapo 10 buck crimpers set me straight years ago. His how to videos nowdays, are the best ever.
I mentioned that I taped together housings because that is also a common disconnect problem with single connectors, like when you series connect lipos with andersons. A pair sticks together pretty good, but singles pull apart very easy. I didn't discuss the fix for the contact coming out of the housing because It seemed like the first guy to respond answered that question fine. After that the hate andersons guys got going.
To slacker, I hope this discussion helped you some at least. Melted connectors on the first ride do indicate a bad connection. Have you got plenty of wire? is there somthing pulling on that thing when you hit a bump? Sounds like maybe you need to adjust your wiring harness on the bike just enough to get some slack so you don't get partial connection all the time. That poor connection will melt a housing every time. That's why I was carefully taping them up on the racing bike that ran 110 v. No flaming wiring mid race for me thank you.
For 15-35-45 amp andersons the fix is easy, just tweak the nose of the contact downward, to engage the spring better. If re-using housings, you may occasionally need to tweak the spring upward if taking contacts out of the housing has bent the spring down some. The third common problem with andersons coming out of the housing is that a bad crimp never allowed the contact to get far enough in and engage the retention spring. This problem is typical when using too fat wire for the housing, like 10 guage in a 45 amp housing.
For the real skinny on how to handle andersons, look up Ypedals video tutorials. His still pics thread on how to crimp stuff with the cheapo 10 buck crimpers set me straight years ago. His how to videos nowdays, are the best ever.
I mentioned that I taped together housings because that is also a common disconnect problem with single connectors, like when you series connect lipos with andersons. A pair sticks together pretty good, but singles pull apart very easy. I didn't discuss the fix for the contact coming out of the housing because It seemed like the first guy to respond answered that question fine. After that the hate andersons guys got going.
To slacker, I hope this discussion helped you some at least. Melted connectors on the first ride do indicate a bad connection. Have you got plenty of wire? is there somthing pulling on that thing when you hit a bump? Sounds like maybe you need to adjust your wiring harness on the bike just enough to get some slack so you don't get partial connection all the time. That poor connection will melt a housing every time. That's why I was carefully taping them up on the racing bike that ran 110 v. No flaming wiring mid race for me thank you.
thanks for all the suggestions.i found that the pin on 1 of the andersons was pushed in a little.i have 2 battery packs and only 1 of them was affected.i bought extra andersons from powerwerx so i will be rewiring the affected pack.thanks again to all and appreciate all the responses.overall am very happy with the rear hub from e-bike kit.com.top speed has been 24.5mph at 36volts.looking forward to going to 48volts.will probably be going with triangle pack from cellman,have heard many positive things about his products.
boppinbob
1 kW
Are 45a Anderson Power Poles beefy enough for the connection that goes into the controller. It's a 72v40a controller and I'm using 4 30c 5s8Ah zippy lipos in series which I know are capable of producing much more that 40a. Or should I be on the safe side and go with a pair of 75 amp Andersons.
Chalo
100 TW
boppinbob said:
40A is 40A. The batteries won't push more into a controller that doesn't demand it. Keep the connectors clean and free of arc burns, make sure your crimps are good, and you'll be fine.
I used 45A powerpoles on a 24V system that saw brief current peaks of up to 80A. There were no noticeable heating or reliability problems with the connectors.
Chalo
