I relate to this. I’ve built two 1000W conversions — one for me and one for my partner — that are good for about 1400W in a fresh battery.i pull a 50lb loaded trailer at 19mph with 350W. add a 21700 cell pack in 36v for some amazing mileage. i’ve moved backwards from 1500W to 500W max.
Not here. My favorite ride is a one-speed rear 10T MAC. Quick off the line and 20MPH limit. I sometimes miss my BBSHDs but the older I get the slower I go...
i’ve changed all 48v and 52v packs for 36VWhat voltage are you running your MAC on?
The reason I am asking is I get about 28 mph with my 10T MAC on a 52v battery and my MAC is in a 27.5" rim with a tire that is 717mm OD (Schwalbe Super Moto-X 27.5x2.8").
I am running an Infineon clone controller set to 55A battery max and 160A phase max.
I agree with you on two things....the MAC is awesome and will accelerate like a scalded dog AND the older I get the slower I go .
A friend of mine and I have come to the conclusion (from experience) that acceleration is what gives you a thrill and speed just makes it hurt more when you crash...so I am much more in to acceleration than going fast. Just FYI, by "experience", I mean crashing.
i’ve changed all 48v and 52v packs for 36V
20Ah 21700 packs. i’ve no idea how fast it is. been there, done that.
Ahhh, now I understand why the top speed is ~20 mph and absolutely nothing wrong with that .
Do you build or buy your 21700 packs? If bought, where do you buy them?
EM3ev.com told me a long time they were going to start using the 21700 cells but so far they are still using the 18650 cells. I know cost drives just about everything but it sure would be nice to have more capacity/range.
For those not familiar with the 21700 cells, they are a little bit larger than the 18650 and have approximately 40% more capacity.
Purchased on Alibaba.
Shanghai Aijiu Energy Technology
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What do you want this bike to do how fast you want to go hills beach snow ect.
Leaf motor at 72volts. But depending on the quality of your battery what controller you can choose we need to know how much amps your battery can safely produce. That is with all calling ill affects to your battery. Do you have a link to your battery or tell us what cells are inside and what your BMS limits are.
I may sell my dd and get a gmac or mac or a cheap bafang geared. I like to pedal and coast without drag.
The only conclusion I came to without putting any effort into switching my setup is to always have 20-40w supplied to the dd motor. I just always manually applied slight throttle when I wanted to coast on dd hub.
A Leaf 1500W with Statorade will do what you want. I suspect the RH212 will as well since I looked at that motor for a while before going with the Leaf. I think you'd have a hard time melting it down on flat ground, or even hills if you use thermal rollback.You are correct on the DD45, Grin no longer offers it except I believe they do sell the "marine" version of it if anybody wants to power a boat.
For the bike...it will be used only on paved roads, I'd like the top speed on level ground to be approximately 40 mph, decent acceleration from 0-40 mph, and as light as possible without running too hot.
I already have a 72v battery that I plan to use so I'll need a controller capable of 72v and select my winding accordingly.
If not for the "lightweight" requirement, I'd go with the H+55 motor from Crystalyte. Anybody reading this that is pretty new to ebikes, weight is somewhat an indicator of how likely the motor is to over heat but only because more mass takes longer to heat up.
A. An inexpensive 2,000w kit from Amazon...but I am having difficulty getting details from all the sellers so I probably won't go this route, although not completely ruled out.
B. Leaf 2,000w kit...but I need to research the Leaf Motor thread to see if upgrading the phase wire size is needed or even possible as well as whether or not I can buy what I want since it will be a combo (motor/controller) they don't currently list.
C. 9C RH212....Grin Tech sells them and they can probably be purchased other places as well. Only potential issue is quality control with the motor since there are reports of porosity in the castings that contribute to motor housings cracking.
I am thinking a 35mm stator is as small as I can go and still decent acceleration and a 40 mph top speed, without serious danger of over heating...and of course ATF or Statorade will help.
The Grin controllers support an option called virtual electronic freewheeling that is supposed to replace needing to feather your throttle like that.
A Leaf 1500W with Statorade will do what you want. I suspect the RH212 will as well since I looked at that motor for a while before going with the Leaf. I think you'd have a hard time melting it down on flat ground, or even hills if you use thermal rollback.
The two motors are really close, and the RH212 might have an edge on efficiency with how I ride my bike, but I used the Grin simulator comparing the two using the ranges, speeds, and hill grades that I mostly ride. I don't really care about top speed, but I care a lot about acceleration and torque in the mid range, specifically between 25 mph and 35 mph for safety, when/if I need to ride among cars. With my controller and battery, the Leaf had a very slight edge on roll on acceleration at those speeds, and pulls decently up to 40 mph before the torque curve drops, but you can still feel some throttle response at 45.
[B][COLOR=rgb(0, 0, 0)][SIZE=4]E-HP[/SIZE][/COLOR][/B]...why did you end up going with the Leaf as opposed to the RH212?
I am just curious because those are the two DD motors I would be most likely to pick.