Building a PEV... Have I considered everything?

oatnet

1 MW
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
2,361
Location
SoCal, USA
Greetings!

I am new to this hobby, I was messing around with Brushless hub motors from Panterra electic scooters and discovered the bicycle hub motor. I am most of the way through building a standard upright bike using a used 'goldenmotor' front wheel and SLAs and looking forward to lightweight cruising with it.

Meanwhile, I just aquired a used crystalyte 408/4011 dual speed front wheel with a 72v controller and I am thinking about building a hill climber/speed/range machine despite my 250lb mass. My area is dry and sunny year round, my commute to work is only a handful of miles, so I might be able to dump my primary car.

I've done a fair amount of internet research and I'm hoping this community's real-world experience can confirm or correct my conclusions:

I decided to go with 72v to be able to max out RPMs and provide the biggest 'pipe' for current flow.
I decided to go with a single pack, cramming as many ah as I can.
I decided to go with NiCad. As a newbie I am not yet comfortable with Lithium (or the price!) and Nimh doesn't appear to have the cycle life (or durability and price) of NiCad. Nicd seems to be pretty durable and forgiving with a long life cycle. I like being able to drain it dry and overcharge it without damaging the battery (accidents happen); plus if I need high charge/discharge rates I may reduce the pack's cycle life but won't kill it. I know that it isn't as light as Nimh or Lithium, but their weight savings would be a small percentage of rider/bike weight so I am figuring the difference will be minimal. I exepct that it will take a lot of amps to generate the torque to move this heavy bike/rider combo up hills, so the 3c discharge rate on a cheap battery is appealing. The only remaining downside I see to Nicd (for my application) appears to be environmental hazards - but I expect to recycle/dispose of the batteries properly, just like I do with all of my other batteries.

Does this make sense to you experience PEV'rs or am I missing something?

Also, with a dual-speed motor, I figure at lower mph I can run the 4011 winding to max RPM for effeceincy, and for high speeds I have the 408 winding. I know it isn't a Phoenix, but ON PAPER it looks like it covers a broad range of low torque and high RPMs. I have seen postings from people who didn't get the variety they hoped out of the dual-speed motors, but they all seem to be running 36/48v and 20 amps, so I'd expect the motor to be current-starved for both windings - I hope 72v/20a will supply 1440 watts and that will be enough to make a difference, do you folks think it will?

Please let me know what you think!

John

ps - has anyone checked out these 13000mah nicd f-cells on ebay ( Item number: 110108786513)? 8000mah is the highest I've seen elsewhere, 13000 @ 3c would provide almost 40 amps of current and 930 watt-
hours, enough for me to commute for over a week between recharges. They are not tabbed and the seller has no documentation on them, but boy would I like 13000 ah of Nicd in a single pack...
 
First off, Welcome to here! I'm new around here as well.

I'm running the 408/4012, a close cousin of your motor, but in a rear drive setup. As far as a device to put watts to ground, its a great setup. No complaints. The center tap idea, though.. Well.. Its starting to look like it won't even have any real effect untill you get up into the 2500 watt range. At my 950 watts, all it does is make a nice speed limiter to keep me in the max efficancy range. (I get twice the range on the 4012) Youre probably going to need a 35 amp controller.

What I've learned about battery chemistry tells me a Nicad doesn't have the power density to store 13 amp hours in an F size battery can. Those eBay batteries might be mislabled NiMH cells, or just mislabled in capacity. NiMH have nearly the came cycle life, its shelf life they lack compared to the Nicads, as well as a slow self discharge tendancy. On the up side, they don't have memory issues, so tyou could do a weeks worth of comuting on one charge without causing memory issues. The high end NiMH, with twice the power density of Nicad, have a 14 amp F cell.

Now for the good news, My motor on a 700c wheel and 48v seems to climb uphills of 15% grade just fine without pedal assist. a smaller wheel and more voltage, it ought to do even better.
 
oatnet said:
Nicd seems to be pretty durable and forgiving with a long life cycle. I like being able to drain it dry and overcharge it without damaging the battery (accidents happen); plus if I need high charge/discharge rates I may reduce the pack's cycle life but won't kill it. I know that it isn't as light as Nimh or Lithium, but their weight savings would be a small percentage of rider/bike weight so I am figuring the difference will be minimal.

Welcome,

NiCd was my second choice. (I went with lithium drill-packs.) IMO, NiMh are good for electronics, but too pricey for high-power, deep cycle stuff like bikes.

NiCd beats the hell outta SLA for weight, size and life. Take the $ you saved by not buying NiMh and build a good fairing! :wink:

Treat the NiCd well and you should get many, many cycles.

:D
 
You are going in a good direction so far !!

Installing a 72v motor in the front forks = be careful.. find a strong steel fork.. and build a torque arm !

For nicads.. you might want to consider looking at packs from http://www.ebikes.ca Justin tests his packs before they ship so you have a pack that arrives ready to go.. no assembly requried.

I assume this motor is installed in a 26" rim.. at 72v i think you will find the 4011 setting just fine..

Kee the updates comming and welcome aboard !

Edit to add : Nimh and NIcad weight almost the same at the same AH .. but the NIcads are 30 % bigger in size than Nimh. The Nicads don't self discharge as fast..
 
Drunkskunk said:
First off, Welcome to here! I'm new around here as well.

I'm running the 408/4012, a close cousin of your motor, but in a rear drive setup. As far as a device to put watts to ground, its a great setup. No complaints. The center tap idea, though.. Well.. Its starting to look like it won't even have any real effect untill you get up into the 2500 watt range. At my 950 watts, all it does is make a nice speed limiter to keep me in the max efficancy range. (I get twice the range on the 4012) Youre probably going to need a 35 amp controller.

What I've learned about battery chemistry tells me a Nicad doesn't have the power density to store 13 amp hours in an F size battery can. Those eBay batteries might be mislabled NiMH cells, or just mislabled in capacity. NiMH have nearly the came cycle life, its shelf life they lack compared to the Nicads, as well as a slow self discharge tendancy. On the up side, they don't have memory issues, so tyou could do a weeks worth of comuting on one charge without causing memory issues. The high end NiMH, with twice the power density of Nicad, have a 14 amp F cell.

Now for the good news, My motor on a 700c wheel and 48v seems to climb uphills of 15% grade just fine without pedal assist. a smaller wheel and more voltage, it ought to do even better.

Yeah, I was pretty skeptical about the 13000mah in an F cell too - but I figured if it was nimh that would still be a good price for it. If they were tabbed I'd probably just buy some and see, but...

Really glad to hear real experience from someone with a similar motor! That is GREAT news about 15% grades. I haven't seen the numbers on the 4012, but I bet it is a real stump puller. Also great to hear about effeciency at high rpms on the 4012 winding - I was hoping that would be the case.

I guess if the 1500w won't really do much for torque, and it is already decent, maybe I'll just build a 72v/7ah and stick with the 20a controller.

Thanks,
John
 
Ypedal said:
You are going in a good direction so far !!

Installing a 72v motor in the front forks = be careful.. find a strong steel fork.. and build a torque arm !

For nicads.. you might want to consider looking at packs from http://www.ebikes.ca Justin tests his packs before they ship so you have a pack that arrives ready to go.. no assembly requried.

I assume this motor is installed in a 26" rim.. at 72v i think you will find the 4011 setting just fine..

Kee the updates comming and welcome aboard !

Edit to add : Nimh and NIcad weight almost the same at the same AH .. but the NIcads are 30 % bigger in size than Nimh. The Nicads don't self discharge as fast..

I experimented with higher voltage on a 408 front hub motor and it wasn't long before the forks were all screwed up. I think 48V is probably the max safest if you don't have a torque arm for 400 series Xlyte.
I use Nicds 24+24V=48V only 7AH but it gets me there and back with no trouble because i run them down pretty low. I also switched my other bike to a rear hub motor, I decided I don't like the heavy front end and potential fork catastrophe you may have with front wheel motor.
 
Welcome,

NiCd was my second choice. (I went with lithium drill-packs.) IMO, NiMh are good for electronics, but too pricey for high-power, deep cycle stuff like bikes.

NiCd beats the hell outta SLA for weight, size and life. Take the $ you saved by not buying NiMh and build a good fairing! :wink:

Treat the NiCd well and you should get many, many cycles.

:D

That is what I am hoping for! The fairing might be a good idea, I have a feeling I might end up in a bent tadpole trike on my next iteration, this time with a rear wheel.

How much did the drill packs run you? I heard these were stable lithium cells but I don't know about them.

John
 
Ypedal said:
You are going in a good direction so far !!

Installing a 72v motor in the front forks = be careful.. find a strong steel fork.. and build a torque arm !

For nicads.. you might want to consider looking at packs from http://www.ebikes.ca Justin tests his packs before they ship so you have a pack that arrives ready to go.. no assembly requried.

I assume this motor is installed in a 26" rim.. at 72v i think you will find the 4011 setting just fine..

Kee the updates comming and welcome aboard !

Edit to add : Nimh and NIcad weight almost the same at the same AH .. but the NIcads are 30 % bigger in size than Nimh. The Nicads don't self discharge as fast..

I have been eyeing Justin's site... His nicad packs are way cheaper than I can build the cells for. However, I am looking to build the pack completely flat, wrap it in an aluminum skin with bungi-hooks, and attempt to disguise it as a heavy-duty parcel shelf. Maybe when they come back from hiatus I can get him to sell me some matched cells, or lay it out for me. Thinking about a drainbrain II too, I am on a trip so I haven't seen the controller yet, it would be great if the original owner purchased it from ebikes.ca so it comes with the 6-pin drainbrain connector!

My 26" goldenmotor bike is built on a $79 huffy santa fe (aka cranbrook) which is made of cheap but heavy steel. I haven't decided if I am gonna put the 26" xlyte on that bike or a different one - any recommendations on a fork or a bike that can handle the torque?

John
 
I experimented with higher voltage on a 408 front hub motor and it wasn't long before the forks were all screwed up. I think 48V is probably the max safest if you don't have a torque arm for 400 series Xlyte.
I use Nicds 24+24V=48V only 7AH but it gets me there and back with no trouble because i run them down pretty low. I also switched my other bike to a rear hub motor, I decided I don't like the heavy front end and potential fork catastrophe you may have with front wheel motor.

Sounds like good advice. I think when I buy new I'll look for a rear wheel. I was hoping the front wheel motor would balance the mass on the bike - between my 250lbs and the batteries that poor rear rim has a tough job. I don't want the forks to go out on me.

What sort of range are you getting out of the 48v/7ah on the 408? How was hill climbing?

John
 
oatnet said:
How much did the drill packs run you? I heard these were stable lithium cells but I don't know about them.

I got a deal on Ridgid drill packs when Home Depot was clearancing hammerdrills... Two 24v (6-cell) packs, charger and drill for $199. The deal is gone, but prices on Milwaukee and Dewalt packs are coming down.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=616

Milwaukee packs come as 18V or 28V, built from emoli cells.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=541
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=745

Dewalt packs come in 36V, built from a123 cells.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=823

Both cell types are very safe, no thermal runaway.

I am keeping my Ridgid emoli packs intact at 24V, since Ridgid offers free lifetime service. 24V is slow, so I am encouraging all electronicly talented people to help devise a way to boost 24V up to 48V:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=630

:D
 
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=12361#12361

Still working my battery needs, but I got e-bike revision 1.0 running today!

John
 
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