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Bullitt build advice

~kb

New here
Joined
Mar 20, 2026
Messages
6
Location
Australia
Hi all, hoping for some advice / input / critique on a build that I'm working on for myself.

Current plans are:
Bullitt acoustic frame (which I already have)
Grin all axle v3 rear direct drive motor, mounted via 142x12 through axle
Phaserunner v6
Cycle Analyst v3
Custom LiFePo4 battery pack under the cargo tray
Single speed drivetrain
All control via torque sensor (and analogue pot on the handlebars for varying this) and reverse pedal for regen

My general goals are:
Future expandability and hackability
Safety (I'm not overly keen on strapping my child onto the top of a DIY battery with more volatile chemistry)
Simplicity and low maintenance (hence SS drivetrain and DD instead of geared motor)
Exploiting regen braking (I'll often be making a mainly downhill run with more mass - my child - then climbing again without this for school dropoffs)

I've been riding predominately SS and fixed gear bikes for the past ~20 years so familiar and comfortable with the trade-offs there. The motor here is essentially for filling in torque from a standstill and helping get up steeper grades. Based in Australia so control is PAS only and tops out at 25km/h.

I had originally planned for a GMAC 10T and torque sensing BB, but after chatting with the folks at Grin and seeing some of the threads here have opted to avoid that due to the noise issues. The All-Axle is also more than enough power, despite being a little less efficient at low speeds due to the direct drive. The extra reliability, simplicity, and integrated torque sensor make it worth it (on paper). Also, while the Max45 SS looks excellent performance wise, I'm cautious of the visual impact drawing a little too much attention in a time where there is increasingly restrictive laws around higher power e-bikes here.

Keen on any guidance and comments for or against the above kit and general approach.
 
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Why an analog pot? I just switched to the super harness with the larger display. Changing assist levels is easy with the display buttons. I would also reconsider not having gears. A good granny gear will let you deal with the hill if your motor or battery fails and still be able to get home without walking.
 
Bullitt is a high performance bakfiets, but in my observation it does not want to go as fast as an over 1kW motor could propel it. the last one I worked on, I removed a dead rear motor kit and installed a Bafang G020 front hub running 48V x 22A. It is a good speed range for the bike.

I think single speed drive on a cargo bike is a mistake unless it is a factory floor bike or you live in Amsterdam. Have options for when the electrical system is not doing its job.
 
Why an analog pot?
Potentiometer - rotary variable resister. You can connect one to the CA3 then have it map to any of the controls. In my case PAS level. The benefit of it over up/down buttons is you get continuous control rather than discrete levels and it acts as both an input and visual indicator as I’m not planning to mount the CA3 in the handlebars.

The SuperHarness was hot on my list too. They’re working on the backpedal regen control support on it which is perfect. The sticking point though is if I go for the LiFePO4 battery I need the Ah used based SOC due to the flat voltage curve. With the CA3 that’s all built in.

Re gears: the single speed setup is still very much an experiment. If it doesn’t work out in practice the fallback is a derailleur or, if I can source it, a Schlumpf MTB drive / ATS speeddrive (or Contavelo if they actually ship).
 
Potentiometer - rotary variable resister. You can connect one to the CA3 then have it map to any of the controls. In my case PAS level. The benefit of it over up/down buttons is you get continuous control rather than discrete levels and it acts as both an input and visual indicator as I’m not planning to mount the CA3 in the handlebars.

The SuperHarness was hot on my list too. They’re working on the backpedal regen control support on it which is perfect. The sticking point though is if I go for the LiFePO4 battery I need the Ah used based SOC due to the flat voltage curve. With the CA3 that’s all built in.

Re gears: the single speed setup is still very much an experiment. If it doesn’t work out in practice the fallback is a derailleur or, if I can source it, a Schlumpf MTB drive / ATS speeddrive (or Contavelo if they actually ship).
Yes, I am aware of what a pot is. I asked why. But you did answer my question.
 
Ah sorry - I completely misread your "why" as "what".

Bullitt is a high performance bakfiets, but in my observation it does not want to go as fast as an over 1kW motor could propel it.
PAS here has to cutout at 25kmph under current laws and will be staying within them as far as possible (which includes exploiting ambiguity around 250W motor rating). On a 26" wheel that's around 200rpm, which also means I can use a 36V pack with the 8T (7.5V/rpm) wind if needed. The motor will absolutely not being used to it's full potential, but it's well designed, repairable, and will likely outlast this build and be useful in something else in the future.

If I was to use another motor it would be the GMAC 10T. It has the planetary gear still so is much more efficient at the lower speeds, and doesn't freewheel so can be used for regen. With it though I then need an external torque sensor, the electronics all need to be working for electric/virtual freewheel and there's a few more bits to go mechanically wrong.
 
The built in torque sensor on the All-Axle is kind of cool, but it is not that hard to install a bottom bracket torque sensor if the GMAC makes more sense for you. That said, the available torque sensors may not work if you have a particular crankset in mind.
 
Does the gmac work for thru axle? I was under the impression the all axle was basically the only hub that would work with thru axles.
 
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