BatteryMooch
10 kW
Jeremy Harris said:The bottom line seems to be that there is a need to not just design a reliable circuit, but to make sure that every aspect of it's installation and use are as carefully thought through, with potential failure modes eliminated by design and manufacturing method. I am near-certain that the mechanical aspects of a unit like this are more important than the electrical aspects when it comes to reliability, so some creative thought as to how to build and package the device will likely be more constructive than pretty much any other aspect.
I completely agree,
SM boards are typically a lot smaller than their thru-hole counterparts and this makes it easier to protect them. Either with a less-expensive case, glue-lined shrink tubing, or a conformal coating. Because SM components are smaller and can't shift around, the shrink-wrap is easier to source or the coating is easier to apply (and doesn't crack). With the SM boards/components being lighter, the forces on the board are smaller too when subjected to shock. Gotta' keep the board from flexing though but that's easy with a small board or one that's just cased via goop-lined shrink tubing and left "floating" in a pack's bag or even duct taped to the pack.Jeremy Harris said:For example, we know that soldered wires come off battery connections, that some of the connectors we're using have an unacceptably high failure rate, that circuit boards suffer damage from mechanical stresses, heat, cold and damp. Something simple, like coming up with an affordable, easy to use, high reliability connector system (i.e. doesn't need expensive, calibrated crimp tools) would be a good start. Some ways to make robust and cost effective housings would also be good. Proven ways of protecting components, wires etc from stresses, temperature and humidity related problems, that are within the scope of the sort of stuff a home brew constructor could use would also be good. I suspect that SM boards maybe be easier to protect from environmental/accidental damage than through hole boards, but some evidence to show one way or the other would be good.
Jeremy
But, this is a low-power board and the thru-hole components won't be very large/heavy. The advantages of SM might not be worth it compared to the difficulty for some in soldering a SM board. Particularly if you just get some regular shrink tubing, squirt in some neutral-cure RTV or hot glue, and shrink the tubing down until it squeezes out whatever goop is in there. The components are then shock mounted and watertight.
[Edit] Another advantage...
If you use a short length of flexible heat shrink tubing wherever the wires exit whatever goop that is used, then the wires are very nicely protected from fatiguing and breaking copper strands due to vibration. Using RTV as the goop may be flexible enough to keep the copper from eventually breaking where the wires exit the RTV but a few more pennies in heat shrink can help a lot.
But, this requires the connectors to be cable-mounted. This allows for easy connector replacement if they get damaged but you do have flying leads coming off the board. Once the connections are made though, there's not much of a difference. Not sure which method is better, just tossing out possibilities.