Ah this is the form factor I always wondered why was so uncommon, suits installing them along side the frame on bikes where there is no space inside the frame like DH bikes. They should have more information on the page though. Like do the high discharge versions have suitable copper or thick nickel interconnects? Is there a BMS or a balance connection to connect a BMS? I'm even fine with no BMS as long as there is a connection to balance the cells somehow, if there is not then that's a deal breaker.
I don't see a problem with gluing to spacers, in fact I'm building a battery now that uses printed spacers with the cells glued in. Now I think making sure the spacer adequately provides isolation between series groups needs to be taken into account and from the picture I'm not sure. That and there are much better adhesives than hot glue for the purpose.
I'm not sure I get why people seem to be anti-glued pack, yes you can do it poorly but you can do anything poorly. Seems that people are obsessed with the idea that with cell holders you can replace a cell. But in reality the vast majority of the people buying a battery do not have the skill or interest in doing so and finding someone to do it for you is not easy. It's also quite a pain requiring regardless how the battery is assembled and high quality modern cells should not need to be replaced.
I have not got a chance to test it yet but I have wondered if replacing a cell in a glued pack is actually not any harder, you cut the connections and then press the cell out of it's shrink wrap and then you press another bare cell in it's place.
Even still this 2 row design does allow a single cell to be removed far easier than a monolithic pack.