HELP! RH212 Installation, Need Advice

[simplydata]

I used this motor on both a Catrike Road and a Catrike Dumont without any issues. Both have 135 mm dropouts, and without spacers. I did install a larger torque arm for added strength. Also, be careful not to bend the motor cable too close to the axle—the sharp edge can cut through the wire unless the motor axle is kept from rotating.

 

[simplydata]

The plot thickens... To achieve anything close to 135mm, the dropout must rest against the shoulder where the axle flat begins. But where do you route the cable? Sharp 90° underneath the dropout? Carve a notch in the dropout to clear it? They've already carved away one entire shoulder with that groove, I don't see any workable options.

Returning a motor back will cost you alot. You will have to pay shipping ,wheel building charge and cost of spokes. It was painful for me when I had to return a GMAT motor.

 

[Harpo]

I used this motor on both a Catrike Road and a Catrike Dumont without any issues. Both have 135 mm dropouts, and without spacers. I did install a larger torque arm for added strength. Also, be careful not to bend the motor cable too close to the axle—the sharp edge can cut through the wire unless the motor axle is kept from rotating.

If you used an RH212 and the dropouts are truly 135mm, mine is simply made wrong. The drive side axle shoulder is flush with the freehub body even before a cassette is installed. With an 8sp cassette I have to add 5mm of washers just to bring it flush, and even then the top cog would be too close to the dropout to be usable.

 

[simplydata]

Just received my RH212 kit, and having a major issue with installation. I installed a Shimano 8sp cassette, it fits fine with no spacer, but when installed the axle flat is deeply recessed below the lock ring. If I grind down a washer to reach it I will be at 140mm+ axle length.

This is going on a Terratrike Rover, very stout steel frame, not bendable. Grin told me this will fit 135mm dropouts, but I don't see any way.

The attached pic shows the freehub with only a lockring, axle flat is below ring even without a cassette!

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Garry

If you used an RH212 and the dropouts are truly 135mm, mine is simply made wrong. The drive side axle shoulder is flush with the freehub body even before a cassette is installed. With an 8sp cassette I have to add 5mm of washers just to bring it flush, and even then the top cog would be too close to the dropout to be usable.

Sorry, I did use a small washer inside of cassette. The washer is not the one they sent but just as an example. It was much thinner I think.

 

[E-HP]

The washer is not the one they sent but just as an example. It was much thinner I think.

That’s just how mine looked after grinding down the diameter of my spacer washer to clear the lockring.

 

[marty]

"Cold setting" with a piece of all-thread isn't going to happen here. This thing is literally built like a trailer hitch, and any attempt to bend is just going to flare the dropouts into a "V" or break a weld. 135mm, maybe 136mm but that is all you're going to get.

Just need more effort to bend. Spread with scissors jack, threaded rod, or whatever you got. Take care to not break welds. Reinforce with jig, wood, or whatever you got. Work slow. Think about what you doing. Not sure how to do? Go to sleep. Think in your sleep. Been thinking how to correct V shaped dropouts? Think press break. Think hydraulic press. I am imagining a jig to bend those rectangle bars. Picture 3 points.

 

[E-HP]

I don’t believe any of the suggestions so far will work, not because the ideas are bad though. On this forum, the difference between success and failure is driven more by a can do attitude, not the ideas themselves. I’ve seen ideas that I thought would never work, but I’m then surprised when the person remains persistent, gets past the hurdles, and makes them work. Those are the best stories because everyone learns something.

 

[E-HP]

I used this motor on both a Catrike Road and a Catrike Dumont without any issues. Both have 135 mm dropouts, and without spacers. I did install a larger torque arm for added strength. Also, be careful not to bend the motor cable too close to the axle—the sharp edge can cut through the wire unless the motor axle is kept from rotating.

I think the OP could go your route. By no spacers, do you mean you didn’t have a washer on the disc side dropout shown in your pic? Do you have a pic of the the freehub side dropout (did the washer keep the aluminum dropout from getting gouged?) and do you have clearance for the tallest gear with the washer shown in your pic?

I think with the OPs horizontal steel dropouts, depending on their tolerances and with the axle fully forward, there would be enough support to forgo the washer on that side. Brake alignment would be affected (assuming disc brakes), but manageable. The lower side of the dropout, assuming the cable exits downward to prevent water intrusion, seems like it could be notched with a round file on the inner side to provide relief for the cable. Assuming you are able to use your tallest gear, he could basically do what you did, with only a single washer.

 

[Harpo]

I think with the OPs horizontal steel dropouts, depending on their tolerances and with the axle fully forward, there would be enough support to forgo the washer on that side.

This would be good, but unfortunately the axle cannot go fully forward. The Rover is designed to accept a 26" rear wheel, but standard is 20" and a 26" would hit the frame if slid forward beyond the middle of the dropouts.

There is very little shoulder on the cable side; half is cut away by the cable groove, and the axle itself is tapered. The gouged up dropout on simplysaid's Catrike shows this is not a good idea, there's hardly any support at all.

So a washer is needed on the cable side, as well as at least 4mm beyond the shoulder of the drive side to get out far enough that the wheel will even turn. Even with this, you can't get a chain on top gear. I'm willing to give up top gear, but 2mm on the cable side and 4mm on the drive side puts me at 141mm. So far I cannot get that much length between the dropouts.

I may have to cut/reweld, that seems to be the only option. But it is very aggravating since Grin guaranteed me this would fit 135mm. I made it very clear to them that I had no more clearance than exactly 135mm.

 

[E-HP]

I may have to cut/reweld, that seems to be the only option. But it is very aggravating since Grin guaranteed me this would fit 135mm. I made it very clear to them that I had no more clearance than exactly 135mm.

You could extend the dropouts and make them clamping. That would give you the clearance and eliminate the need for any washers, although you could use them to center the wheel. You may need to make a relief cut.

This thread is about torque ams, but a lot of people just make clamping dropouts to tackle both issues at once.

torque arm picture thread

Cross-posting these two threads so a search will turn up both: "Found an awesome torque arm" (3 pages) https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11570 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Original thread died. Figured I'd help out and repost what I saved. Here is the album link...

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