ICE engine, 4.6L Ford, Intake Manifold Basket, what for?

A week fuel pump that now is not pumping at all would explain why car was running bad and now won't start.
marty said:
Careful with fuel lines under pressure. Gasoline spraying around can make a exciting fire. Ask me how I know that :oops:.
Nehmo said:
There is no fuel coming out of the tube that connects to the fuel rail when trying to start while engine is turning over.
I told you not to do that!

Nehmo said:
(gauge on empty)
Go buy some gas. Go buy some more gas. Keep dumping gas in there till the gauge reads 1/8 tank or so.

Suspect your battery is not doing to well after all this attempted starting. Charging at night with a battery charger is way better then jumping with a second vehicle.
 
Story time,
1971 Chevrolet Impala. Picture is not my car. Just a picture I found. Same dark green color.
OB-ND756_chev1_E_20110321223844.jpg

Car won't start. Test fuel pump by disconnecting fuel line. Hold pop bottle over the fuel line so gas won't spray around. Have second person turn the key. Bottle slips off. Gas sprays all over engine compartment. BIG FIRE. Quickly find some cardboard and put out fire by hitting it with the cardboard. Repair damaged wires that got burnt. Continue troubleshooting why car won't start.
 
How not to replace a fuel pump. Happened in my neighborhood. Very sad.
http://www.buffalonews.com/city-region/east-side/fire-kills-owner-at-genesee-street-auto-repair-shop-20140307
Fire kills owner at Genesee Street auto-repair shop
EP-140309135.jpg&exactW=174&exactH=126&AlignV=top&imageversion=HomePageSectionFront

By Jane Kwiatkowski Radlich | News Staff Reporter
on March 7, 2014 - 1:47 PM
The proprietor of a popular Genesee Street auto-repair shop died Friday afternoon from injuries sustained in a rapidly moving fire that broke out while he and an employee were fixing a car, according to witnesses at the scene.

Steve Pawlowski, 56, of the Town of Tonawanda, died in Erie County Medical Center, where he was taken after neighbors reportedly dragged his burning body out of Steve’s Auto Service, 2280 Genesee St.

Several witnesses at the scene talked to the shaken employee, who told them he and Pawlowski were working on a fuel pump in the garage when the office phone rang.

“The employee ran inside the office to answer it,” said Coleman Jones, one of the many neighbors who gathered at the scene. “Seconds later Steve screamed ‘fire’ and the whole shop was engulfed in flames.”

Forty-five Buffalo firefighters responded to the fire reported at 1:10 p.m., according to Fire Commissioner Garnell Whitfield, who also was at the scene.

A second person believed to have suffered a knee injury during the fire was also transported to ECMC, Whitfield said. His injury was not believed to be life-threatening.

After the neighbors dragged Pawlowski from the garage, they ran across East End Street to a restaurant for help, said Frederick Sanders, 32, a cook at Pine Hill Halal Market, 2286 Genesee St.

“Someone came in here screaming that a guy was on fire and burning,” Sanders said. “My first reaction was to grab a bucket, fill it with water and run outside. He was on fire, so I poured the water on him. Someone else was rubbing snow on his back. Then we heard popping, and we thought the building was going to blow up so we dragged him further away from the fire.”

Whitfield said that reports of an explosion were unconfirmed.

“The combustible and flammable properties of the contents presented additional challenges to the firefighters,” said Whitfield,

The one-story garage was fully engulfed with flames that spewed heavy smoke. Damages were estimated at $200,000 to the structure and $110,000 to its contents.

The auto repair shop had been a fixture in the neighborhood on the border of Buffalo and Cheektowaga.

Cheektowaga Police Lt. Anthony Filipski, who grew up a few streets away from the garage on Barbara Street, described the business as a former Texaco station.

“He had gas pumps,” said Filipski. “This place was always open and always busy. There were always cars there. They were always working on them.”

Filipski was one of the first people on the scene.

“He was in bad shape at that point. You could tell he was burned badly. They were working on him for a long time, performing CPR before putting him in the ambulance.”

Filipski, who was on patrol at Genesee and Union Road, said Buffalo firefighters responded within minutes. The radio call, he said, came over as a house explosion.

As many firefighters remained on the scene to clean up, homicide detectives sifted through the nearby snow and recovered what appeared to be parts of clothing.

Because of the fatality in the fire, it was standard procedure to summon members from the Buffalo Police Homicide Squad to investigate, Whitfield confirmed.

As firefighters worked to clear the scene, David Novak, 36, of Humason Street stood watching with his son Dylan, 7.

“It definitely had to be hot in there for it to look like that,” said Novak, an auto mechanic for 15 years, referring to the smoke-blackened areas above each of the garage’s three bays. “A couple of times, I’ve had close calls working in fuel pumps. If you‘re not careful, the fumes will ignite everything. I mean something had to ignite it. It’s a very tricky and dangerous business to be in.”

As word of Pawlowski’s death passed through the neighborhood, many people gathered at nearby taverns to talk about the tragic fire and loss of their friend.

At the Edge of Town Restaurant, patrons including Don Gerstenmeyer, 70, bemoaned the loss of a good mechanic and trustworthy man who was fair with his prices. Pawlowski, they said, was a community mechanic.

“I’ve been going there for about 30 years,” said Gerstenmeyer, a retired chief engineer for the City of Buffalo. “Gas tanks, transmissions – he could fix it all. His father had it before him. Steve was a great guy. You couldn’t find a better place to take your car.”
 
identical thing happened in 2008 in the auto repair shop behind my house here. mechanic working on the fuel pump sprayed fuel and a spark set it off. the entire building was destroyed and it took 2 years before we demolished the buildings.

it had been a local service station from the 30's and then became an auto repair shop. it was the place with the big red X's on the published city development project for the street. labeled 'noncompatable use' in city planner gobbledeegoop.

now they paved over it and put in food carts.

running the fuel pump with no fuel to cool it off is sure to burn it up.
 
marty said:
...Happened in my neighborhood. Very sad.
http://www.buffalonews.com/city-region/east-side/fire-kills-owner-at-genesee-street-auto-repair-shop-20140307

Fire kills owner at Genesee Street auto-repair shop...
“Someone came in here screaming that a guy was on fire and burning,”...
Gasoline fires happen so often, the public attitude is to blame the victim as he or she must have been careless. Everybody know gasoline is flammable, and the fact is accepted as a part of the modern world.
Battery fires, despite being much less frequent, are viewed as a new thing and a major hazard that maybe should be avoided.
I'm getting off the subject of the thread. I'll return to it.

Yes, by jumping the fuel pump by accessing the wires (which directly go to the fuel pump) at the Fuel Pump Driver Module (This pic is inside the trunk, drivers side, the side)
IMG_20140821_190001.jpg

I first got confusing results. First, with the line opened at the fuel rail, fuel came out. I then attached the gauge, but it only registered 10 psi (it should be 35psi). I connected the line to the fuel rail and was able to start the engine (while running, it pleasingly didn't sound bad. The miss seems to be repaired) - but I noticed a coolant leak at a neglectfully unattached hose, so I killed the engine. Later, it refused to start. I disconnected the hose at the fuel rail. This time nothing comes out. I jump the pump. I can hear it hum. No gas comes out the tube. (There's now plenty of gas in the tank, and I changed the gas filter before all this.)
So, the pump was intermittently working at a low level and now won't pump at all (although makes noise). The fuel pump is defective.

I'm now re-positioning the car so its rear is over the walkway. It will be sort-of like working on a concrete floor. This is easier to write about than to do. The yard has limited maneuvering space and I have to pull the Lincoln with a tow strap to position it.
I don't think I can push the front bumper with another car because I'm afraid I trigger the crash sensor and detonate the air bags.
I've replaced 3 in-tank fuel pumps previously, so I'm familiar with the procedure somewhat.
tank-bolts-av0995a.gif
This Lincoln Town Car '05 has tank strap mounting studs that are a break-off style. That's a bit different.
IMG_20140817_172307.jpg
 
put a siphon on the fuel hose and siphon fuel through the pump to see if you can clear any air bubbles in the pump which might cause cavitation.

the new screen may be preventing the fuel from full wetting and filling the pump, or you could pressurize the tank from the filler opening with your air compressor until the fuel runs out at the front where the line is open. that should clear any air bubbles in the pump. maybe.
 
dnmun said:
put a siphon on the fuel hose and siphon fuel through the pump to see if you can clear any air bubbles in the pump which might cause cavitation.

the new screen may be preventing the fuel from full wetting and filling the pump, or you could pressurize the tank from the filler opening with your air compressor until the fuel runs out at the front where the line is open. that should clear any air bubbles in the pump. maybe.
I have NOT installed the new fuel pump yet (if that's what you're thinking). I was describing testing the existing pump, which behaves erratically. But since now, the tank has plenty of gas, I'm directly electrically energizing the pump (with reverse polarity, it only clicks), the result is 0 pressure, a hum and no flow. Therefore, the pump must be broken.
The old pump had to have been primed because it was producing a flow at one point. (That's when I connected the line and got the engine to start.)

But pressuring the tank with an air compressor is maybe something to think about. If I could do that, and then get flow, I could drive the car long enough to reposition it in the yard without having to deal with the tow-strap etc. But I don't know. The tank might explode with too much pressure, and I don't know what the limit would be. Never mind. I'm not going to do it.

As an aside, I should report while taking pics of this project, I devised a method of attaching a phone/cam to a tripod camera mount. I epoxied a hose clamp to a long nut, 1/4" -20 thread.
IMG_20140815_094626.jpg
To remove the phone, simply squeeze the hose clamp at points 90 degrees from where it contacts the phone. The clamp then expands where it is holding the phone and the phone comes out easily.
 
don't put too much pressure on it. that is what i have to do to prime the fuel pump on my truck after it has been sitting a long time. but it never goes above a few psi. i can do it manually by puffing and puffing and pressurizing from the filler tube myself usually but if it doesn't work i go get the air compressor and stick the air nozzle gun through a hole in a yogurt container lid that fits flush on top of the filler tube. works ok.
 
I like the phone mount.

If the fuel pump has a brushed motor (most likely), they can sometimes run, but fail to re-start if the commutator stops on a bad spot. Sometimes you can get them going by tapping on the motor while applying power. Sort of hard when it's inside the gas tank, but it might respond to a tap on where the wires go in.
 
My understanding is that in-tank fuel pumps require fuel in contact with them to keep them cool. If they are run without that cooling it will overheat the pump and can melt wire insulation. At least, that's what happened to mine. It only needed a new wire harness, but as long as I was that far in I replaced the pump, too.

Side story: It was winter and my car was on a grade in the driveway, so I decided to have it towed and let someone else do the work. I had the keys in the steering column in case the tow driver wanted to keep the column lock from actuating. Even though I informed him that I had diagnosed the pump as the culprit, he jumped in and tried to start it. He explained, "I had to try". I thought about firing him on the spot, but decided expediency was the priority. I had thought about disconnecting the battery before he got there 'just in case', but then thought, "what could happen?". Instead of dressing the punk down, I decided it was my own fault for not disconnecting the battery. The tow company owner and AAA heard my complaint the next day.
 
fechter said:
I like the phone mount.
I'm applying for US/Chinese patents on the first business day after the holiday. *
fechter said:
If the fuel pump has a brushed motor (most likely), they can sometimes run, but fail to re-start if the commutator stops on a bad spot. Sometimes you can get them going by tapping on the motor while applying power. Sort of hard when it's inside the gas tank, but it might respond to a tap on where the wires go in.
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I assume it's a brushed motor too. I'm not concerned about getting it functioning now because I'm already a good way toward replacing it. I have most everything disconnected and the nuts on the straps loosened. However, there's one problem remaining. I can't find where to disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. The covered cable goes through and above the cross-member and disappears.
(The tank and rear of the car is to the right. The front of the car is to the left. The camera is pointed upward from under the car. The blue line is the fuel line which is disconnected from the tube coming out of the pump assembly. The red tube is my attempt to siphon out the tank. The tank is opened by the fuel pump lid being un-screwed off. The plastic entry for the wires is pried out, but it's not where you're supposed to disconnect. )
connector-fuel-pump.gif
The Repair Guide I have simply states:
Disconnect the fuel pump connector located above the No. 4 crossmember.
If I pull on the cable, it's fixed, and there's not enough play to allow dropping the tank.

*Joke
 
did you do a compression check on the cylinders? perhaps the heads are warped, perhaps the block is warped from overheating....thats why the manifold was leaking in the first place?

i gave up on ice years ago for those reasons , :mrgreen: good luck !
 
Go buy the new fuel pump. Looking at the new part might give you some clues as to how to disconnect old part. Get in there with with your hands. Sometimes you can feel better then you can see. Pretend you are blind.

Can you lower tank a little for better access to the fuel pump electrical connector? Look at this Fuel Tank Adapter for ideas.
144230_700x700.jpg

Build something similar with 2x4s.
 
marty said:
Go buy the new fuel pump. Looking at the new part might give you some clues as to how to disconnect old part. Get in there with with your hands. Sometimes you can feel better then you can see. Pretend you are blind.

Can you lower tank a little for better access to the fuel pump electrical connector? Look at this Fuel Tank Adapter for ideas.
To you poor souls who have discovered this thread in search of learning how to find and disconnect the electrical connector of the fuel pump of a 2005 Lincoln Town Car, I will now enlighten you.
(You are welcome. You may show your thanks by donating to your nearest anti-government charity.)

The fuel pump connector is over the cross-member & under the trunk bottom, which is high at this point. From the non-pump side of the connector the cable goes through a hole in the trunk. It's the right (passenger side) cable hole with the rubber stopper.
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(The camera is in the trunk looking toward the front of the car. At the top of the pic, you can see the back of the rear seat. Re-size {ctrl + -} this pic if the red-end connector is not visible. ) The connector is disconnected in this pic. The red-end end is visible. The other part of the connector is under and not visible here.
First, from the bottom, push up through the cross-member the plastic screw cable holder. Then, to access the connector, I cut a hole (between the two existing cable holes) with an angle grinder using an abrasive disk blade. Be careful to not go deep; there's a tube about an inch below you don't want to cut.
Another possible method may be to remove the rear seat and get some play in the cable, and then cut the rubber stopper out, and then pull the cable with connector down. But I'm not sure that will work.
 
hydro-one said:
did you do a compression check on the cylinders? perhaps the heads are warped, perhaps the block is warped from overheating....thats why the manifold was leaking in the first place?
No, I didn't do a cylinder compression check. When I saw the leak from under the intake manifold and the plug-well filled with coolant, I changed the intake manifold. After that replacement, I was able to start the engine briefly. The engine sounded like it was firing on all 8, but I had neglected to reconnect the heater hose, so I had to kill it.
I then discovered the low-pressure then no-pressure output from the fuel pump. So, now I'm changing that.
I usually don't like the diagnosis that 2 things were wrong, but I believe that was the case here. The fuel pump was dying and the cylinders were missing leading to progressive failure.
 
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The fuel tank and pump are out.
The tank fits in the car more-or-less vertically, with the top of the pic at the top in the installed position in the car. You are looking at the front of the tank. The 2 indentations on both sides are where the straps go.
In this pic, the inside-tank wires to the pump are detached and the plate cover is off. You see the inside of the plate. Many repair sites on the web incorrectly say the pump assembly will attach to the tank with a ring-threaded mechanism. This is not the case on this car, but I have seen it on other Fords. Screws secure the plate in this car.
You can also see the float that attaches to the sender unit, the device that converts the fuel level to an electrical resistance level. IMO, this fragile system could be improved. Perhaps a floating metal-coated ball (or piston) in a perforated tube with the tube having some sensors along the side could be used.
The sock is at the bottom of the pump.
I'm concerned about the discoloration of the tank right of center. Maybe it's a slow leak, and the gas migrates upward as a stain.
On the upper right, there's a screw that secures the filler tube. I probably should have taken this out before taking the tank out. With the filler tube on, the tank still makes its way out, but it might have a bit easier if I had removed it.
To make the required clearance, I ended up having to detach and bend outward both exhaust tails. I detached at the rubber hanger point, and I'm concerned those will be a pain to get back on.
 
A radiator shop is a good place to take the gas tank. Ask them to clean it inside and out. Test it for leaks. Paint it what ever color they like. Black?

A gas tank painted black or any other color will help you mentally.

If you use water to rinse out inside of tank be sure to dry it thoroughly immediately afterword. I have watched people in a radiator shop use a kerosene heater that blows to dry the inside of a gas tank.

The stains on the gas tank could be bodily fluids that leaked out of dead people that were left in the trunk for long periods of time.
 
That looks real similar to my son's Ford Bronco. At least on the Bronco there was lots of room around the tank to get at the fittings. His tank rusted through and would start dripping gas if it was more than half full. He tried putting some epoxy stuff over the hole, but it failed in a short time. He eventually found a new tank on Amazon for pretty cheap. It was like $100 shipped. Big sucker too, 33 gallons. The little drip made no noticable difference in the fuel consumption.

It usually rusts around where the straps hold the tank.
 
fechter said:
...He tried putting some epoxy stuff over the hole, but it failed in a short time...
I ordered and received the new fuel pump via Auto Zone, who shipped it directly to my house (a day late, but who's complaining?). The pump is pump-only, that is, without the sender unit. This means I'll have to replace the pump in its holder, which doesn't involve much more than a couple of hose clamp exchanges.
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However, I still have the problem of the slow leak in the fuel tank, evidenced by the stains and suspicious history. Actually, I conjuncture the slow leak is the indirect cause of the pump failure.
A modern Ford in-tank fuel pump turns on with the ignition, but then it is programed to turn off in a few seconds if the engine fails to start. Because the pump is cooled by the fuel going through it, this turn-off is a precaution against running a pump in an empty tank where a pump will have no means to cool itself.
But this precautionary feature can be defeated if the anxious driver continues to attempt to start the engine. Each time the driver attempts to start, the pump runs for a few seconds and heats up. Eventually, this process will kill the pump.
IMG_0098.jpg

Although this job isn't a labor of love, nor it a labor of profit, assembling the whole thing without repairing the tank doesn't sit well with me (as a point of art, actually). At the same time, the additional time & expense of taking the tank to a radiator shop for repair, isn't realistic.
So, I'll rotary wire-brush clean the suspected place of leak; then, I'll paint the area with epoxy; then, I'll use fiberglass fine webbing; then, apply more epoxy. I used this method successfully once before.
But I have one minor problem with doing that procedure. Where do I get the fine fiberglass webbing (as shown in the last pic)? I haven't looked around much yet. And, yes, I know I could find it online somewhere, but I can't wait.
 
Sorry if I have more questions then answers.

Would it be wise to fill the tank with water and see if it is leaking, and exactly where it is leaking from? While you playing with the hose I would wash the outside of the tank with soap and water.

I have had good luck repairing rusted oil pans with epoxy putty. I use this stuff to repair everything.
Oatey Hercules Pro Poxy 20
5KAV9_AS01.JPG


After repairing tank, test it again with water to be sure leak is fixed.

Important to dry tank thoroughly inside and out after getting it wet with water.

If working on concrete use carpets or cardboard so tank does not get dented and scratched when moving it around.

Epoxy putty can also be used to make a sculpture.
692-figurative_sculpture.jpg
 
man up. get out the torch and braze it closed.

wear protective gear and do it with the tank in the car and outside where they can tow away the burned out carcass.

then your long agony will be over.

we will pray for your safe return.
 
My experience with the Bronco tank was we fixed the leaks with epoxy then the tank sprung some new ones a little while later. It was rusted out enough that the metal was paper thin in several areas. If you're lucky it will be just that one spot. The epoxy stuff worked well. Getting the metal totally clean first is key.
 
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