LightningRods mid drive kit

eMTBHunter said:
I'd think starting at 18 is reasonable given the elimination of some reduction on the chain secondary. I was out on mine today and for my particular purpose, 30 mph top end is plenty, and I spent most of my time in the 10-15 mph range on the trails.

Sounds good. I'm hearing 16, 18 and 20. 18 is in the middle so that seems safe enough.

What sort of derailleur are you contemplating? To be able to shift into 42+ tooth sprockets seems to require either something like the oneup radr cage or wolftooth goat link to modify a 10 speed derailleur, or an 11 speed mech designed for the wide range 11 speed cassettes.

What's different about what we are doing is that we don't need to access the teensy sprockets. Our starting point is halfway through a normal cluster. So my plan is to make a longer hanger that resets the starting height from an 11t to that of an 18t. The largest sprocket that we can run will be dictated by what the derailleur will shift to. I'm planning no more than 15% jumps from one gear to the next. As far as type of derailleur, just one of the long arm Shimanos made for mountain gear sets. Standard off the shelf stuff.

Another thought, what if we used a 10 or 11 speed, but beefed it up by having the largest diameter spacers that still allowed full chain engagement in the teeth of each sprocket? Maybe even weld it. Get it as close as possible to one solid block so the unsupported radius on each sprocket is minimized and that should significantly strengthen the sprockets as the highest bending force is going to be toward the center of each sprocket.

The main problem with a 10/11 speed that the physical spacing between the sprockets is much tighter. We don't even need seven gears. Why would we go to 10 or 11? Remember that 10 and 11 speed gear sets are a product of the pump bike world. They're trying to make the most of 250 watts and a 100 rpm power band. Thin, weak sprockets is a price they're willing to pay to get more mechanical advantage on their puny "motors". We have too much power, too many rpm, and most bicycle gear systems have too many gears, spaced too close together, that are too weak.

I have a Specialized hard tail mountain bike that I'm going to use as my test mule. It has a 7 speed rear cluster on it from the factory. I'm going to get a 2x wide ratio set cut in stainless and see how it goes with 15:1 motor reduction. If it works like I hope I'll make the gear sets available to anyone who wants one.
 
Good solution on the derailleur hanger, Mike.

I'm really supportive of the 7-8 speed concept and agree it will be plenty of range. I just want a clutched derailleur to go with it. Not something I've been able to find off the shelf in 8 speed, but hell, 75% of the drivetrain is custom parts through your efforts at this point so "off the shelf availability" isn't a requirement. Might as well go for 100%.

If we can't get a clutched derailleur, something with a beefy spring might be able to achieve a similar effect to resist the chain jumping. More shifting effort isn't a problem so long as we aren't snapping cables.
 
If this has been covered elsewhere in the thread I apologize.
You can build custom cassettes using Miche cogs:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=14029&category=40
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=14031&category=40
Spacers:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=39303&category=40

Also, downhill mountain bikers are converting 10/11sp cassettes to 7sp with the use of this adapter:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=80311&category=40

This 10 speed to 7 speed spacer works if the cogs don't get too big too quickly. I couldn't get it to work when jumping to a 36t and 42t using a goat link. The derailleur hits. I think there would be a market for spacer similar to the goat link to move the derailleur laterally out and down. This would not only benefit high power LR users, but other mid drives that have terrible chain lines like the Bafang BBSHD.
 
Sather I think the miche ones, don't lock together in a way to share the load to free hub shell right?

Mike's design is based around what a few of the LR users use / used (revolved, cheeky bloke and myself) which is a set of sprockets and adapters / spacers with iso disc brake holes.

my cro mo sprocket has been the strongest moving drive part on my bike since day one, with hardly any wear.

Check out fouriers and origin 8 and velosolo disc cogs.

dscn8172a.jpg

origin-8-pro-pulsion-8-speed-cassette-copy-201110-1.jpg
 
Rode about 15 miles today through a bunch of timber tracts. Here's a brief clip of a climb (after the left hand turn) that last year would have caused me to get off the bike and walk it up the hill. The big block climbs it with ease and this is with a power limit of 2500 watts via the CA.

[Vimeo]180545669[/Vimeo]
 
Thanks for posting this. The high reduction converts the input watts into hill climbing torque. Compared to some other systems, you can get more torque from the same amount of watts, or "X" amount of torque from fewer input watts.
 
eMTBHunter said:
this is with a power limit of 2500 watts

Thanks for sharing, I love uphill riding and vids of it.

The "unusual" thing that I noticed is that the motor heats up the same if you use 2500 watts or 3500 watts or 1000 watts on the same section. You would intuitively think that using less power means less heat....

Only difference is the speed that it gets done. Strange concept which also applies to hub motors. You can blast through or bog down....

Keep the vids coming!
 
almost finished my upgrade to the 15mm jackshaft. looks everything nice and lined up now.
i forgot that i had a 17T 219-sproket on my bike, so the ordered 18T didnt fit my tensioner, had to dremel out some material, but now it fits nice:



So it looked before, you can see where the 219 chain touches the Tensioner



i also added a mudguard, my kit was filled with 0,5kg of dry dirt when i changed the bent axle.

hope i did the right amount of decal-stickers on it, guess that will make it bit more torque... or was it angular momentum, im confused a bit ;)
 
I made a mudguard this weekend too! Mines 1/8" kydex that I contoured a bit for some additional stiffness. Holding off on the stickers until after I do some drivetrain upgrades to deal with the extra torque they'd provide.

Hopefully adding a rear fender tomorrow to get rid of the mud flinging up on my back and neck.

e61b6a2898550c23aac24b10152c96cb.jpg


b3d4e59de41f4358c1303da644fb266b.jpg


92abceb90e9bd0d24533e6a312df3f1d.jpg
 
eMTBHunter said:
Rode about 15 miles today through a bunch of timber tracts. Here's a brief clip of a climb (after the left hand turn) that last year would have caused me to get off the bike and walk it up the hill. The big block climbs it with ease and this is with a power limit of 2500 watts via the CA.

Man that's steep! Videos typically make hills seem flatter than they are. You can tell that this would be a tough hill to hike up.

You guys with the stickers- add them slowly. I don't want you to start breaking parts again from all of that extra power! :D
 
Sounds good. I'm hearing 16, 18 and 20. 18 is in the middle so that seems safe enough.

What sort of derailleur are you contemplating? To be able to shift into 42+ tooth sprockets seems to require either something like the oneup radr cage or wolftooth goat link to modify a 10 speed derailleur, or an 11 speed mech designed for the wide range 11 speed cassettes.

What's different about what we are doing is that we don't need to access the teensy sprockets. Our starting point is halfway through a normal cluster. So my plan is to make a longer hanger that resets the starting height from an 11t to that of an 18t. The largest sprocket that we can run will be dictated by what the derailleur will shift to. I'm planning no more than 15% jumps from one gear to the next. As far as type of derailleur, just one of the long arm Shimanos made for mountain gear sets. Standard off the shelf stuff.


The main problem with a 10/11 speed that the physical spacing between the sprockets is much tighter. We don't even need seven gears. Why would we go to 10 or 11? Remember that 10 and 11 speed gear sets are a product of the pump bike world. They're trying to make the most of 250 watts and a 100 rpm power band. Thin, weak sprockets is a price they're willing to pay to get more mechanical advantage on their puny "motors". We have too much power, too many rpm, and most bicycle gear systems have too many gears, spaced too close together, that are too weak.

I know this has been gone over before, but just to recap. If you are running less than ~2,500 watts you can use normal drivetrain components. It's when you start going over 3kW that two things happen. One is parts will wear and break faster, especially with bad chain line, but secondly, you don't need the gears anymore. I'm saying that this change happens around the 2,500-3,000W mark. I understand the taller cassette to have more chain wrap and power handling, but it will take a lot of work to get decent performance. You could use junior road cassette that starts with a 15t cog, but no junior mountain gearing made. I agree that higher power eBikes don't need 8,9,10,11 gears in the back, but to have the clutch type derailleur you have to go to 10 speed. Properly used 10 speed system can handle 3,000W. If we are going to go beyond this power number than the beefing up would be best by going to single cog. @4kW, I can use 8 of my 10 gears, but 98% of riding I stay in the 17t. That's why I was curious on the Rohloff build because it had Big Block power, and then wide range, but relatively close ratios. Would also think most riding would be done in 1-3 gears on this setup?? All being said, the type of riding one does would absolutely affect the ideal drive system (flat, mountainous, off-road, cargo, high speed)

Another thought, what if we used a 10 or 11 speed, but beefed it up by having the largest diameter spacers that still allowed full chain engagement in the teeth of each sprocket? Maybe even weld it. Get it as close as possible to one solid block so the unsupported radius on each sprocket is minimized and that should significantly strengthen the sprockets as the highest bending force is going to be toward the center of each sprocket.

For mentioned maximum cog support check out SRAM OG-1090, it's the older version, expensive, but has said design feature. This is precursor to XG-1090, 1099, 1199, 1299 (10-50t! :shock: ) Who's going to be the first to test the Eagle!??? :twisted:
 
Typically the shift indexing is not done by the derailleur, but by the shifter.

So that should mean that you can use a clutched derailleur with a 7 speed shifter to get indexing at 7 gears but still have the clutch feature.

Theoretically. I haven't tested this, so perhaps someone with the right parts on hand can verify it. We'd all like to know!
 
I love those mud guards. I wonder how long the stickers will last before they get shredded on rocks, weeds, sticks, whatever. BTW... that pound of caked in dirt was adding stability to the bike. It was a design feature.
 
Has anyone here run the Big Block at 88V?

Also, LR/Mike, a question for you. I recall you stating you are working on a drive ratio of 15:1, then 2:1, for a total drive ratio of 7.5:1. Is that fixed? I mean, is it possible to change it slightly?

I've run the numbers, and I was wondering if it would be possible to get a total drive ratio of 6:1 instead. Might require 18:1 and 3:1.
 
I don't know of anyone who has run the Big Block at 88V. I don't know why it wouldn't do it. As long as the larger armature is reasonably well balanced it should be fine. If someone doesn't beat me to it I'm going to get a big controller and battery pack and try running it at 100V 100A for 10kW. I don't know if it will do it or for how long. Since these motors come from the factory with a cooling fan on the motor shaft I may try porting the case on one and installing a muffin fan or similar.

The Small Block has been run at 100V 40A. It was used with a snow track to pull the owner's daughter on a sled. It tore all of the paddles off of the snow track.

I can make up just about any ratio you want. PM or email me and we can work on setting you up.
 
im running my big block at 84v if that's relevant...
 
Has anyone here run the Big Block at 88V?

I run 72v nominal, 84v fully charged on the Big Block

Typically the shift indexing is not done by the derailleur, but by the shifter.

So that should mean that you can use a clutched derailleur with a 7 speed shifter to get indexing at 7 gears but still have the clutch feature.

Theoretically. I haven't tested this, so perhaps someone with the right parts on hand can verify it. We'd all like to know!

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. You might be able to get away with a 7 speed chain running through the pulley cage (7.1 - 7.3mm chain width, designed for 5.9-6.2mm), but the problem is with the cable pull ratios. Seeing the shifter does control the indexing, it is designed to work with the derailleur to move it the proper distance per shift. SRAM had 1:1 ratio in 7-8-9 speeds, but then moved to their road ratio "exact actuation" for 10 and 11 speed (this is why you can use SRAM road shifters with their mountain derailleurs. Shimano used their road ratio ~2:1 back in Mega9 days, but now uses DynaSys which is another cable pull ratio. Bottom line, there is no 7 speed index shifter that will move a 10 speed derailleur the proper amount per shift.
 
stonezone said:
im running my big block at 84v if that's relevant...

No ill effects, other than scaring the wee out of yourself?
 
xnoitulos said:
Has anyone here run the Big Block at 88V?

I run 72v nominal, 84v fully charged on the Big Block

Typically the shift indexing is not done by the derailleur, but by the shifter.

So that should mean that you can use a clutched derailleur with a 7 speed shifter to get indexing at 7 gears but still have the clutch feature.

Theoretically. I haven't tested this, so perhaps someone with the right parts on hand can verify it. We'd all like to know!

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. You might be able to get away with a 7 speed chain running through the pulley cage (7.1 - 7.3mm chain width, designed for 5.9-6.2mm), but the problem is with the cable pull ratios. Seeing the shifter does control the indexing, it is designed to work with the derailleur to move it the proper distance per shift. SRAM had 1:1 ratio in 7-8-9 speeds, but then moved to their road ratio "exact actuation" for 10 and 11 speed (this is why you can use SRAM road shifters with their mountain derailleurs. Shimano used their road ratio ~2:1 back in Mega9 days, but now uses DynaSys which is another cable pull ratio. Bottom line, there is no 7 speed index shifter that will move a 10 speed derailleur the proper amount per shift.

"Exact Actuation" sounds like another name for "1:1" ratio. Some numbers, measurements or actual tests are needed to cut through the advertising lingo. I've found a lot of things were more compatible than advertised to be. The marketing labels aren't always reality. Can you measure actual cable motion vs derailleur motion for these to see if it is the same or different as 1:1, or has someone already done so?
 
Here's a lot of data on ratios, cable pulls, sprocket pitch, etc: http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/
 
eMTBHunter said:
Here's a lot of data on ratios, cable pulls, sprocket pitch, etc: http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/

Excellent reference to the insanity.

Just make a calibratable electronic shifter and be done with the nonsense.
 
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