Loaded Tesseract Carbon Single VESC 6355 10S4P

[Rikobonito]

okp convert us ! :lol: And Im so glad too he did it !!
hurry to see your enclosure ... how many hours left ?

 

[whitepony]

awh man, what a nightmare. first the foam is compressed and the motor wire channel shows, now it basically destroyed the otherwise perfect enclosure with a semi-professional surface. it just gave way in a few parts

here are the preliminary results - its not bad, but its too far off my expectations. ill look around now for foam that will withstand more pressure (okp help!!):

here are the leftovers of the traitorous foam :x

 

[whitepony]

or hmm, could be that I simply used a vacuum that is too strong, so the foam core gave in. could go with less vacuum next time hmmm

 

[bobfandango]

FWIW, Roarockit folks recommend Owens Corning Foamular C300. I have no idea if you can get that in Germany or if it is more dense that what you are already using. That may not help though since the bag is really going to try very hard to squash that corner right off. I'd probably fashion the form out of a block of wood.

 

[whitepony]

haha, as if you read my mind with the wood block, thats exactly what I did last hour, back to laminating, pictures later

 

[okp]

pretty good ! you can either use wood or polyuréthane foam. You can use scotch tape like this

http://www.adhesifs-direct.com/img/cms/Fotolia_1452904_Subscription_M.jpg

epoxy does not stick to it

 

[whitepony]

alrighty, did it all again with a solid block of hard wood. took quite a while longer to bring into a desired shape, but its looking quite good now. carbon sheet was just large enough to support one more enclosure - this time it gotta work, else Ill have to reorder

 

[Rikobonito]

wow ! perfect ! that's what I just asked on esk8.fr :lol:

or hmm, could be that I simply used a vacuum that is too strong, so the foam core gave in. could go with less vacuum next time hmmm

think you right
...but I'm afraid that I can't do a wooden mold as perfect !

can't wait to the the result and the versus photo !? :wink:

 

[bbq870]

careful with the wooden plank. it might enclose the wood at the bottom and you can´t get it out anymore (hinterschnitt)
or do you plan to put it on a plain surface and close the gap with putty, plastillin?

Uwe

edit:
now I just saw, you moulded it ON the board directly.
is the C fiber so stiff, that it creates a radius at the bottom?

 

[bandaro]

careful with the wooden plank. it might enclose the wood at the bottom and you can´t get it out anymore (hinterschnitt)
or do you plan to put it on a plain surface and close the gap with putty, plastillin?

Yeah, this. Also, most building foam (such as used for in-ground slab insulation) comes in a series of densities. Ring around and find someone who stocks a foam that will not crush at 15psi (generally on the mid-strength range). As a rule of thumb, the denser the foam, the less compaction you will get.

What did you use to give the external surface? Remember that whatever you use, you will get that exact surface finish on your carbon. If you don't like a finish, sand it with some rough paper and brush on a thin coat of resin and let it air dry. While it is still tacky (leave a fingerprint, stick you down, but not break apart) brush on another coat. The finish should be great now, if not, use some fine paper and car polish on it.

 

[whitepony]

I used tape to epoxy-proof the transition board<->wood block like you suggested, so there wont be any "hinterschnitt".

used the board as laminating base, so the enclosure will reflect the exact geometry of the board surface! on the transition board <-> enclosure I really want a fairly sharp near 90° angle, but the fiberglas dual carbonlayer is already thick enough to smooth it into a small radius. ontop of that, in the moment where the vacuum is getting stronger, the very sturdy vacuum foil will also smooth out the edges a little, since its not stretching enough. its kinda hard to explain, but there is an equilibrium of streching vs. atmospheric pressure, which kind of ends in this small radius on the enclosure base.

 

[whitepony]

thats how it looks now, didnt fiddle around with the breather/bleeder layer anymore. so far the 2nd layer never really soaked much resin and the vacuum worked fine! edges are well rounded, base connection looks nice and sharp, tonight around 23h Ill know more!

 

[whitepony]

what you can see already: the wood block does not give in at this point I could already see the small deformations of the foam block on the flat surface, but I was hoping for some breather/bleeder phenomenon instead of the foam core deformation. think tonight Ill be happier with the results!

 

[whitepony]

...but I'm afraid that I can't do a wooden mold as perfect !

what I like most about DIY: it teaches me patience. probably sat for 1hour in my garage, just sanding that stupid block of wood. :lol:

think for more demanding geometric forms, wood is probably not really an option unless you have decent tools to work with wood (which I dont). :?

 

[Rikobonito]

you doing it perfectly well, for a hand made result it's awesome

 

[bbq870]

I think the wood should be good enough
if you just had foam , a layer od Makrolon (plastic sheet) would be good enough to prevent the foam from getting dents.
after all: thank god 'ze germans' build skateboards and not tanks. hahaaahaa!!!
zwinker

I love your builds!!!
because this shows that patience and a second thought is more important than skills.

 

[okp]

depending on the height of the wood block, it may not take the shape of your deck when you vaccum it (or even if you use ultra hard wood... the deck may take the shape of the enclosure!). I use pretty dense PU foam and it works great, plus it takes the shape of the deck so I have no gaps around the enclosure

can't wait to see your results

 

[whitepony]

depending on the height of the wood block, it may not take the shape of your deck when you vaccum it (or even if you use ultra hard wood... the deck may take the shape of the enclosure!). I use pretty dense PU foam and it works great, plus it takes the shape of the deck so I have no gaps around the enclosure

ah yea, thats a good point in general! my board is, after the sanding and routing orgy, nearly 100% flat except for the last bit (if I flattened that as well I would have had to take too much off the board in the middle section, so i left the last few mm of rocker at the end).

so there is a 1-2mm gap at both ends of the wood block which I covered with scotch tape. althought I think even without that tape: in the end its not very dramatic anyway - worst thing that can happen is that youll have to sand off some resin before you can remove the wood block!

 

[whitepony]

enclosure unwrapped - looks really good, dont think Ill manage a much better version. getting the wood block out was a little harder than expected, because SOME resin made its way on the corners - think I was really close to breaking the enclosure :lol:

here some images, also in comparison to the first crappy attempt where the foam core deformed. its the raw result, no sanding or anything yet - was too late for these kind of things. didnt want to annoy my neighbors even more.

 

[wingsuit]

beautiful build

 

[nowind]

Amazing Skillz ! Could need some advive (-;

Really Nice !

 

[whitepony]

no skills, just a vacuum pump 8)

didnt have time to work more on the enclosure yesterday ... but this evening Ill hot resin-coat it like okp suggested (tried a small corner and it looks really awesome - glossy surface which gives the fibers some amazing depth. and then tempering ... convinced my parents that the sauna will be unharmed and that Ill pay for the 16hours electricity. :lol:

 

[whitepony]

hm, got a few air bubbles on the resin surface, despite trying with a heat gun - guess Ill have to sand a little again. but: tomorrow Ill temper the cfk for 16hours @ 60°C to finally give it a flex test to get back on the board as soon as possible - weather is nice and I want to ride, can work on the finish when its raining. 8)

still looks nice that deep 3D carbon shimmer:

 

[okp]

Go go whitepony !!!!

 

[whitepony]

tempering for 10h @ 60°C