Missing Parts - Anywhere in US I can order express?

[EwanG]

I have previously detailed my story of woe with a certain vendor elsewhere, so I won't bore you all with it. Got a 48v battery and took what I did get to a local shop who was willing to put it all together. Unfortunately once everything was laid out, it turned out that a couple of pieces were missing (no surprise there unfortunately). Vendor claims it MUST have been in the box, and I don't really have a week to let the bike stay in the shop since it is how I commute to work anyway. Image below has red to indicate the two pieces missing - one the piece that plugs into the battery on one end and clips to the controller on the other, and the other is the switch for go, reverse, etc. Any idea of a dealer here in the US who might be able to sell me these two parts and ship them express?

Thanks in advance!!

 

[DAND214]

Reverse? Are you sure?
Need more info.
motor, battery, controller.
Really would be best to have actual pictures of the pieces.

did all come from the same vender?

I don't think you will find the pieceseasily without pics. Not from a web site.
Most kits are DIY which involves custom pieces from time to time.

Dan

 

[EwanG]

Picture I had in my post (hopefully it was showing for you) is all I have available. I don't have pictures of the actual parts because... the actual parts are missing.

System was supposed to be a 48v battery connecting to a controller for a 1000w rear hub dd motor. Picture I posted is the wiring diagram I was given from the kit, and the red outlines the pieces missing.

 

[Martog]

Unless I'm missing something, it looks to me that all you need to get rolling is to wire up your battery to the controller.

The switch and wire harness for Reverse, Regen, Cruise shouldn't be critical to make the kit work. Those functions are optional in most applications. A lot of us have those on our controllers and never even bother to wire them up. You're also not likely to find that particular switch and harness (at least plug-n-play) from anyone else unless they are selling the exact same kit/manufacturer.

If I were you, I'd (or have your shop) make up the wiring and connectors to hook your battery to your controller and you should be able to start using your bike while you wait for things to get worked out or get delivered from the original supplier.

 

[999zip999]

Do you have a link to your earlier story ? Maybe a pic of the battery for the connector. Then just some wire and andersons or bullet conntors the simple part. I might have them. Plus those wire connectors look weak in that and should be replaced any way.

 

[d8veh]

The battery connector is a standard Anderson power connector that you can get from any electronics supplier. The shop should know that otherwise I'd question their ability/knowledge about installing kits. Like the others said, you don't need the other switch arrangement. You can fit it later. You should be able to find one on Aliexpress.

 

[EwanG]

Will try and get pics of the battery and controller when I drop by the shop today. To answer the last poster, this shop hasn't done one of these before, but was willing to give it a try. I asked them because the other shop that is anywhere close to me refused to touch anything that might require them to do "electronics". While Austin has a thriving e-bike community, I'm afraid San Antonio is still having to be dragged kicking and screaming into this...

 

[EwanG]

The battery connector is a standard Anderson power connector that you can get from any electronics supplier.

Main local supplier here in town is Altex - www.altex.com. They don't seem to have anything by that name. Any other names this might go under?

 

[bmurray7]

The battery connector is a standard Anderson power connector that you can get from any electronics supplier.

Main local supplier here in town is Altex - http://www.altex.com. They don't seem to have anything by that name. Any other names this might go under?

Anderson Power Pole

 

[Martog]

For Anderson Powerpoles always try your local ham radio shops.

In San Antonio these guys have them in at least the 45amp version:
http://grumpyshop.net/
But their prices are a bit high and selection doesn't seem great.

Just google for a list of local ham radio shops and make a few calls. You should be able to walk in and buy the APPs off the shelf. May want to buy the crimper while your there.

Then hit your local hobby shop to buy some 10-12g silicon wire and you'll be all set.

 

[Martog]

In looking at that picture again, it looks like the connection on controller side of the power wires are likely to be 4mm bullets - hard to tell for sure - but pretty common. But if so, pick those up at the local hobby shop.

Either way, it would be helpful to get pics of your actual hardware - especially the power wires coming from the controller - and the connection that is needed into the battery. From there we can guide you to the right connectors.

But as I mentioned, you can get APPs from your local ham radio store. You can buy 4mm bullet connectors (if needed) from your local hobby shop - along with 10-12g silicon wire.

But back to your missing switch - one of the functions on that switch is regen braking. Not sure what frame you are putting the kit onto but I hope you are planning on installing torque arms if you have thoughts of using regen braking. TAs are always a good idea anyway - especially with these higher power set ups.

 

[EwanG]

In looking at that picture again, it looks like the connection on controller side of the power wires are likely to be 4mm bullets - hard to tell for sure - but pretty common. But if so, pick those up at the local hobby shop.

Stopped by the local shop (HobbyTown) on the way over to the shop and indeed it was Andersons on one end and 4mm bullets on the other. I believe you win the Internet for today

Appreciate all the detective work. Meant I was able to get parts to build a cable and then get a cable made to replace what was missing. Hopefully will have the bike by this weekend so I can take it for a spin before my first commute next Monday (first commute with the new parts that is, I've been biking every work day since December).

Perhaps not surprisingly, when we pulled the old controller off (one that came with the Currie iZip originally) there were a couple places where it looked like it had almost melted through. Not sure if I should blame their workmanship or the hills here in SA, but makes me even happier that I decided to do the upgrade!

 

[Martog]

Stopped by the local shop (HobbyTown) on the way over to the shop and indeed it was Andersons on one end and 4mm bullets on the other. I believe you win the Internet for today

Cool. I've always wanted to win the internet. I hope I can withstand the fame and fortune...

Glad to hear that you're almost there with your new ride. I know how frustrating it is to be so close - but not quite getting - that new ebike grin :lol:

 

[EwanG]

So everything is assembled, and tried to turn it on (both me and the store mechanic) - and nothing. LCD does not appear to be turning on, and while I "thought" I saw a light in the green LED next to the throttle, no motor movement.

On my previous kit it was just select TAG or PAS and press the green button. Any obvious things we should be looking at? I dropped off the charger so they are going to leave it hooked up for a few hours on the chance that it wasn't as charged as I thought it was from charging it when it first got here. I suspect we'll double-check the wiring again tomorrow, but any other ideas of what to look at would be helpful.

Thanks!

 

[Martog]

Hookup a multimeter to start tracing the issue. While its easy to jump to the conclusion that you have a bad component somewhere, first determine if you have bad wiring or a faulty connection somewhere.

So first verify that you have a fully charged battery and that it is getting power to the controller. You can test the voltage easily at the 4mm bullets. If the battery is 48v then fully charged should be 50+ volts.

So test that the controller is getting power and we'll go from there.

 

[EwanG]

No multimeter, and at this point would ideally like to find someone in SA or Austin who could pick the bike up, make it work, bring it back, and charge me a hundred or two plus parts.

Probably all moot as I will need to start riding the bus on Monday (2.5 hours each way) since after spending a couple hours with it today I couldn't even get the LCD to turn on even if it and the battery were the only things connected to the controller. I presume that I am correct that if the LCD won't even turn on it's safe to say either the controller or the LCD are messed up, and I'm probably SOL anyway.

Album of images at:
http://imgur.com/gallery/UqRKW

Starts with a picture of my old controller after removing to do this upgrade (which obviously was needed based on this picture), and then pics of the LCD panel (front and back with part/serial number), controller (couple pics with model info) and then some battery and battery cable pics.

Guess the other option would be to walk to work since that takes equally long. Can't ride the bike as a bike since the new rear wheel hub was too big to put the old gears back on. Idea was I would ride it for the week if I could get the motor running and then take it back for a new set of gears they are going to order Monday. Guess I should cancel that order too...

Thanks for the help here anyway. Guess some of us just aren't meant to be kit people.