Mongoose DX project
- Thread starter oofnik
- Start date
Lucky_Hoodlum
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2009
- Messages
- 66
I am a little lost as to throttle setup. Your using a servo tester but also a standard throttle on handlebars? How do you do this? I thought that
an interface of some kind was needed? can you explain please how this is setup? If this can be done like this why is an interface required at all?
Nice job on the battery case and the box of electronics it looks very neat too
an interface of some kind was needed? can you explain please how this is setup? If this can be done like this why is an interface required at all?
Nice job on the battery case and the box of electronics it looks very neat too
The servo tester used a 5k pot to adjust the servo pulse. I assumed that this pot would send an analog voltage to the ADC input on the microcontroller. So I did a little reverse engineering to find which pin changed voltage proportional to the pot setting and wired the hall effect throttle signal directly to that pin. So in effect I'm using the throttle in place of the pot that was on the servo tester board.
I made this thread a while back asking for advice, but then I figured it out on my own, and nobody seemed to notice.
Oh, and I'm powering the servo tester's 5v input by the logger's internal voltage regulator. There is a 5v supply on the logger board that I tapped in to. This is probably a bad idea as it's likely overloading the circuit, but I haven't had any problems yet.
I made this thread a while back asking for advice, but then I figured it out on my own, and nobody seemed to notice.
Oh, and I'm powering the servo tester's 5v input by the logger's internal voltage regulator. There is a 5v supply on the logger board that I tapped in to. This is probably a bad idea as it's likely overloading the circuit, but I haven't had any problems yet.
Lucky_Hoodlum
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2009
- Messages
- 66
OH thats excellent, uhm...why is this not been picked up by others i wonder, sounds to be a simple logical step to take requiring only mulitmeter and soldering iron! Can you possibly do a easy to follow diagram possibly picture up close for us that wish to try this or perhaps explain how you find the correct pin possibly ? using multimeter. I haven't seen these servo tester i still yet to by any parts i was waiting for solution to this throttle problem if this is easy to do problem solved i think. Thankyou
I guess people aren't generally comfortable enough with electronics around here to do something like that. Others are but wish to have less of a "hacked" solution I guess. Fechter's board looks like it should be ready soon, so more people will be using that I'm sure. His solution offers the advantage of incorporating current limiting, which is a great idea. I may build a similar circuit in the future if I have over current problems.
The hose clamps arrived yesterday. Very beefy. Buy DAMN these things are hard to drill through. I wore out two drill bits already.
I'll need to go to the store and get some carbide tipped bits or something. Any suggestions as to how I should drill four 1/4" holes through these without destroying more drill bits?
The hose clamps arrived yesterday. Very beefy. Buy DAMN these things are hard to drill through. I wore out two drill bits already.
I'll need to go to the store and get some carbide tipped bits or something. Any suggestions as to how I should drill four 1/4" holes through these without destroying more drill bits?
recumpence
1 GW
High pressure low RPM using carbide bits. Or high RPM with a dremel using a narrow (small diameter) stone.
Matt
Matt
Tried that, didn't do a thing.recumpence said:
I don't have a real drill motor here.. I'll have to either go buy one along with some good drill bits or borrow one from a friend. But this week is going to be hell in school so progress might be a little slow these next few days.
oofnik said:Tried that, didn't do a thing.recumpence said:
I don't have a real drill motor here.. I'll have to either go buy one along with some good drill bits or borrow one from a friend. But this week is going to be hell in school so progress might be a little slow these next few days.
Sometimes I wonder if "college" sometimes demands more than the average 40-hour work week does. It certainly felt like it did last quarter! But, cutting the physics out this quarter, awwwww... it feels so much more laxed. :lol:
methods
1 GW
swbluto said:
:?
Who told you that?
College is supposed to be like an 80 hour week buddy. . .
lol... 40 hour week... Maybe if you want to get C's
When I was finishing my Masters I was sleeping 4 hours a night, commuting 4 hours in bumper to bumper traffic while watching lectures on my laptop, eating nothing but pizza, and working 20 hours a week at work. My fingernails were long and dirty, my hair hanging over my ears and greasy, strung out on caffeine, irritable, constipated, constantly worried,....
Thats what College is supposed to be like :wink
-methods
etard
100 kW
Oofnick,
You gave me an idea with your briefcase battery! 8) For my roadbike build, I will put two of these pannier style beside my rear wheel. Maybe I'll wear a suit to make it look like I have important places to be. :lol: :wink:
That is an excellent idea though, to mount it maybe you can design a rail system with a spring latch, that's what the topeak rack system does:
See how the yellow springed clip catches the front bar on the rack, and you just slide it on rails till it clips in. I imagine you could do this with some aluminum flat stock from Home Depot and screws and washers.
Do you have pictures of the servo tester soldering?
You gave me an idea with your briefcase battery! 8) For my roadbike build, I will put two of these pannier style beside my rear wheel. Maybe I'll wear a suit to make it look like I have important places to be. :lol: :wink:
That is an excellent idea though, to mount it maybe you can design a rail system with a spring latch, that's what the topeak rack system does:
See how the yellow springed clip catches the front bar on the rack, and you just slide it on rails till it clips in. I imagine you could do this with some aluminum flat stock from Home Depot and screws and washers.
Do you have pictures of the servo tester soldering?
Hey etard, glad I gave you some ideas.
I don't have any pics of the servo tester, no, but if you have the same one from hobbycity.com I can just tell you how I wired it up. The hall throttle has three wires that correspond to +5v, ground, and signal. I wired the +5v and ground to the two power input pins on the servo tester board. Then I needed to connect the signal to the ADC (analog to digital converter) input on the microcontroller. First I poked around the chip with a volt meter to see if I could find which pin it was that changed its voltage in proportion to the pot. Then I confirmed that the pin was in fact the ADC input with the chip's datasheet. It was pin 22 in TQFP package, marked ADC7. Since I didn't want to solder directly to the pin itself, I poked around some more for some resistor or something that was connected to the same pin and soldered the signal wire on to there. And voila!
These instructions are going to be different for every servo tester. I don't even know if it will work for all of them. The 555 or 556 controlled ones might be trickier - they require resistors to set an external voltage reference where the hall sensor outputs this analog voltage directly. But I'm sure there is a way to make it work. If people become interested in doing it this way I will be glad to help them - but I won't be liable for fried servo testers!
I don't have any pics of the servo tester, no, but if you have the same one from hobbycity.com I can just tell you how I wired it up. The hall throttle has three wires that correspond to +5v, ground, and signal. I wired the +5v and ground to the two power input pins on the servo tester board. Then I needed to connect the signal to the ADC (analog to digital converter) input on the microcontroller. First I poked around the chip with a volt meter to see if I could find which pin it was that changed its voltage in proportion to the pot. Then I confirmed that the pin was in fact the ADC input with the chip's datasheet. It was pin 22 in TQFP package, marked ADC7. Since I didn't want to solder directly to the pin itself, I poked around some more for some resistor or something that was connected to the same pin and soldered the signal wire on to there. And voila!
These instructions are going to be different for every servo tester. I don't even know if it will work for all of them. The 555 or 556 controlled ones might be trickier - they require resistors to set an external voltage reference where the hall sensor outputs this analog voltage directly. But I'm sure there is a way to make it work. If people become interested in doing it this way I will be glad to help them - but I won't be liable for fried servo testers!
So I got the new hose clamps installed. No more shifting. Not even a little bit. But I think I'm still going to mill some slots just to be safe.
I also put the tensioner in a new location. I removed the weird mount it came with and just ziptied it securely to the frame. This works a lot better than the way I had it before.. it's also a little quieter.
I soldered over some of the shunt on the BMS because it was cutting out a little earlier than I wanted it to. I also tweaked the ESC voltage cutoff to 31.2v (2.6v/cell). After multiple full throttle launches I only had one cutout. So as long as I'm nice and I pedal too, everything is okay. The controller doesn't get more than comfortably warm to the touch. The motor heats up a bit more though. I'd estimate maybe 160 F. But again this was lots and lots of full throttle, so normal temp should be around 120 - 130 F I think.
All I have left to do is securely mount the battery pack and electronics to the rack. I know I've seen something like this before but I can't think of what it's intended for or where to find it: It's a small plastic thingy where one side has an adhesive, the other side has a snap-on type deal to mount to a round bar. I'll go to Target and look around for a bit, maybe I'll find something that works.
I rode around tonight for about a mile. Man, this is so much fun. I think it was Ypedal who said it best - it's good exercise but only when you want it! I can still pedal comfortably and have the motor do the rest. I think I would feel a lot less satisfied with e-biking if I didn't build the thing completely from scratch. Oh and the neighbors love it. I had at least four or five people walking or driving back from the Sox game (I live about two blocks from Sox field) stop me and ask me about it.
So maybe it's not a super 10kW monster, but I think it's a pretty damn good first attempt at an e-bike. I promise I'll put up a video this weekend.
Thank you all for all the help and suggestions and everything!
I also put the tensioner in a new location. I removed the weird mount it came with and just ziptied it securely to the frame. This works a lot better than the way I had it before.. it's also a little quieter.
I soldered over some of the shunt on the BMS because it was cutting out a little earlier than I wanted it to. I also tweaked the ESC voltage cutoff to 31.2v (2.6v/cell). After multiple full throttle launches I only had one cutout. So as long as I'm nice and I pedal too, everything is okay. The controller doesn't get more than comfortably warm to the touch. The motor heats up a bit more though. I'd estimate maybe 160 F. But again this was lots and lots of full throttle, so normal temp should be around 120 - 130 F I think.
All I have left to do is securely mount the battery pack and electronics to the rack. I know I've seen something like this before but I can't think of what it's intended for or where to find it: It's a small plastic thingy where one side has an adhesive, the other side has a snap-on type deal to mount to a round bar. I'll go to Target and look around for a bit, maybe I'll find something that works.
I rode around tonight for about a mile. Man, this is so much fun. I think it was Ypedal who said it best - it's good exercise but only when you want it! I can still pedal comfortably and have the motor do the rest. I think I would feel a lot less satisfied with e-biking if I didn't build the thing completely from scratch. Oh and the neighbors love it.
I had at least four or five people walking or driving back from the Sox game (I live about two blocks from Sox field) stop me and ask me about it.So maybe it's not a super 10kW monster, but I think it's a pretty damn good first attempt at an e-bike. I promise I'll put up a video this weekend.
Thank you all for all the help and suggestions and everything!
Dude, when you get the chance, give us a run-down of the specs!
Battery - Voltage, AH, type
Mechanical - Final gear ratio(how many times the motor spins for the wheel to spin once)
Performance - Acceleration, top speed "on the flats", your top speed going up a long hill of some known percent.
Electrical - Max continuous current(Is it limited?), wh/mi., max continuous power, Kv of the motor, internal resistance, etc.?
Other - a comfortable guess as to the power limit of the motor? What could you push it to to do continuously(I'd assume 220 degrees Fahrenheit for the shaft-area or 170degree on the can with the magnets)?
Battery - Voltage, AH, type
Mechanical - Final gear ratio(how many times the motor spins for the wheel to spin once)
Performance - Acceleration, top speed "on the flats", your top speed going up a long hill of some known percent.
Electrical - Max continuous current(Is it limited?), wh/mi., max continuous power, Kv of the motor, internal resistance, etc.?
Other - a comfortable guess as to the power limit of the motor? What could you push it to to do continuously(I'd assume 220 degrees Fahrenheit for the shaft-area or 170degree on the can with the magnets)?
johnrobholmes
10 MW
very nice! Looks like you are getting close to the finish here!
I do the same thing for my throttle, just hack a servo tester apart and replace the pot with the wires coming from the magura throttle.
I do the same thing for my throttle, just hack a servo tester apart and replace the pot with the wires coming from the magura throttle.
recumpence
1 GW
Man, I am so excited to see this thing going! I could feel your pain as you built it up.
I am also glad to know those clamps work. I am sort of stealing a small portion of that clamp idea for my production clamps. :wink:
I am looking forward to the video!
Matt
I am also glad to know those clamps work. I am sort of stealing a small portion of that clamp idea for my production clamps. :wink:
I am looking forward to the video!
Matt
Thanks everyone
It was raining all day in Chicago, so no vids today. Tomorrow doesn't look much better but I will try.
Matt, do you still have the cooling fan you used on the AXi motor? I'm thinking that might be a good idea. Especially since I plan on bringing the bike home to Atlanta with me over the summer, where there are hills and 90-100 F heat.
My motor is 63mm with 14mm mounting holes at the back - I'm pretty sure this is exactly the same as your AXi.
It was raining all day in Chicago, so no vids today. Tomorrow doesn't look much better but I will try.
Matt, do you still have the cooling fan you used on the AXi motor? I'm thinking that might be a good idea. Especially since I plan on bringing the bike home to Atlanta with me over the summer, where there are hills and 90-100 F heat.
My motor is 63mm with 14mm mounting holes at the back - I'm pretty sure this is exactly the same as your AXi.
recumpence
1 GW
Nope, sorry. I sold that fan.
I am able to make another one. But it took me quite a while to make.
I think AXI now sells a fan like that for their motors. You might want to do some Googling to see.
Matt
I am able to make another one. But it took me quite a while to make.
I think AXI now sells a fan like that for their motors. You might want to do some Googling to see.
Matt
Ah, ok. Well I looked around and AXI makes fans only for three of their smaller motors, but none for the 53xx series. So I emailed them about it.
I also emailed Astro Flight about their motor fan that looks about the right size.
I'm gonna go outside and take a video now.
I also emailed Astro Flight about their motor fan that looks about the right size.
I'm gonna go outside and take a video now.
dontsendbubbamail
10 kW
- Joined
- May 28, 2008
- Messages
- 718
I gutted a muffin fan, am using the blade section, and drilled a 12 mm hole to fit the my motor shaft. It works well and is held on with the prop mounts that came with the motor. Depending on the direction of your motor, it will be either blowing or sucking. Mine was sucking, so I created a tunnel that extends over about 3/4 of motor. This causes some air to be sucked through the motor and some to be sucked around the outside of the motor bell. It also blows over the esc.
A picture can be found on the following page http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5317&hilit=bubba+trailer&start=45
Bubba
A picture can be found on the following page http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5317&hilit=bubba+trailer&start=45
Bubba
Hi bubba, I tried something very similar to that a while back when bench testing the motor. I wasn't satisfied with the flow - it seemed to create more turbulence than anything. I think an impeller type fan would work best for this application, sucking air through the motor and flinging it out the back. Thanks for the suggestion though.
So uh, I forgot to charge the batteries last night, and it kept cutting out. So no video yet. :?
So uh, I forgot to charge the batteries last night, and it kept cutting out. So no video yet. :?
Ran another test after charging, but my video assistant went home already, so...
Upon analyzing the data later, I hit 3kW!
And I un-glued the magnets again!
So I took the motor apart, again, pushed three or four magnets back in to place and applied CA glue generously between every magnet. I hope that won't happen any more.
My neighbors love this thing as much as I do
Upon analyzing the data later, I hit 3kW!
And I un-glued the magnets again! So I took the motor apart, again, pushed three or four magnets back in to place and applied CA glue generously between every magnet. I hope that won't happen any more.
My neighbors love this thing as much as I do
Ahhhhhh, okay. Make sure to tell us how the gluing goes! If someone finds a pathway from failure-mode to no failure-mode, that'd certainly be golden information! It sounds like luke, with his regluing, was more "pre-emptive" than repair so I don't think it's known he would have had a problem anyways.
I was looking at the weight of your motor and it seems to be about 2/3rds - 3/4th of mine and I believe mine was "rated" for about 3kW if the power/mass ratio is supposed to be constant and their power ratings for the 1.5 kg 6-7kW motors are accurate, so that'd imply your motor's "max rating" is somewhere around 2 - 3 kW, but it seems they have a reputation for not liking to be run near their limits so it seems 1.5 kW may be around the reasonable upper limit in its stock configuration. If you find a glue that improves the magnets' staying power, then everybody can totally vastly improve these cheapies at minimal expense!
Anyways, I'm looking at this one http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5141&Product_Name=HXT_80-85-B_170Kv_Brushless_Outrunner_(eq:_70-40) and I'm getting mega-tempted to buy it. It seems like it wouldn't hurt to push 4kW through it. The only problem is... when is hobby-city going to get their 20c 6s 5000ah lipo restocked?! Those'd make a perfect match with the motor and for a price that doesn't involve breaking your leg.
I was looking at the weight of your motor and it seems to be about 2/3rds - 3/4th of mine and I believe mine was "rated" for about 3kW if the power/mass ratio is supposed to be constant and their power ratings for the 1.5 kg 6-7kW motors are accurate, so that'd imply your motor's "max rating" is somewhere around 2 - 3 kW, but it seems they have a reputation for not liking to be run near their limits so it seems 1.5 kW may be around the reasonable upper limit in its stock configuration. If you find a glue that improves the magnets' staying power, then everybody can totally vastly improve these cheapies at minimal expense!
Anyways, I'm looking at this one http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5141&Product_Name=HXT_80-85-B_170Kv_Brushless_Outrunner_(eq:_70-40) and I'm getting mega-tempted to buy it. It seems like it wouldn't hurt to push 4kW through it. The only problem is... when is hobby-city going to get their 20c 6s 5000ah lipo restocked?! Those'd make a perfect match with the motor and for a price that doesn't involve breaking your leg.
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