new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Yes, the loose wires I referred to were "unanchored plug contact fittings". But when I pushed them back in with a small screwdriver they would not click and stay in, so I glued them in. Works fine. My son loves the Cyclone and leaves me in the dust when I'm on my BBSHD.
BTW: I noticed a some of the connector wires on the controller were already hot glued in. Maybe someone in China was having a bad day.

Gman: What is the "washer mod and the other side plate Dingus suggested"?
 
Thats because you didn't do the washer mod. If you do the washer mod and the other side plate Dingus suggested you probably don't need to use solid motor mounts.
Click to expand...

evolutiongts,

that motor mount looks like a thought out design whereas the ad hoc fixes of gman and I do not look quite as sound. After some very steep hill climbing my clamps got a little loose but I did not notice the flexing of the frame until doing a burnouts on snow. After tightening the gear clamps the flexing disappeared even when brick walling the front tire and giving some throttle while having the rear wheel spinning on dry sidewalk. The clamps may need monitoring as they must have stretched or loosened while under the severe loads of hill climbing. I did shear the cluster carrier pawls while hill climbing [50% grade] -- likely some drive train shock loading -- DTSL -- going on here.

tell us how that motor mount frame holds up with high amp & steep hills [if you use it on a bike]
 
DingusMcGee said:
Thats because you didn't do the washer mod. If you do the washer mod and the other side plate Dingus suggested you probably don't need to use solid motor mounts.
Click to expand...

evolutiongts,

that motor mount looks like a thought out design whereas the ad hoc fixes of gman and I do not look quite as sound. After some very steep hill climbing my clamps got a little loose but I did not notice the flexing of the frame until doing a burnouts on snow. After tightening the gear clamps the flexing disappeared even when brick walling the front tire and giving some throttle while having the rear wheel spinning on dry sidewalk. The clamps may need monitoring as they must have stretched or loosened while under the severe loads of hill climbing. I did shear the cluster carrier pawls while hill climbing [50% grade] -- likely some drive train shock loading -- DTSL -- going on here.

tell us how that motor mount frame holds up with high amp & steep hills [if you use it on a bike]
Click to expand...

Will do, so far the mount is rock solid. I used CAD. I wanted a bulletproof drive train and the bolts and bosses was a major weakness.
 
I hope this saves someone some time.
TOOLS NECESSARY for 73mm Cyclone 3000 install:
(For kit purchased from Luna, other kits may vary)
Chain tool
Bottom bracket removal tool
Crank arm removal tool
Pedal wrench
Metric allen wrench set
20t ISIS socket to tighten Cyclone BB cups
14mm socket and socket wrench (tighten cranks)
Solder gun and solder
bottom bracket locking tool to tighten BB lock ring (or hit with screwdriver and hammer)
Side cutters or wire strippers

TO BUY LIST:
plumbing clamps to go around down tube ( to replace big zip tie)
single speed bmx chain
appropriate battery connector
Electrical tape
Locktite and thread cleaner
bag of plastic zip ties
 
Good list there :)

Anyone know where to buy the strong main bolts that attach through the aluminium clips (the ones the washers go on)
I snapped one of mine and replaced it with a normal M6 bolt which works but bends unlike the original hardened one.
 
le15otl ,

class 12.9 allen bolts see:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=11pnmga

select the allen head screw and then select metric. M6 up to 200mm
 
So, got the trike all together. Took me roughly 8 hours to assemble from spare bolts to a beautiful trike... the results are amazing. I rode it for almost 30 miles with my dog sitting on my lap, unpowered for now, but it was a blast, way more fun than even the 40 mph eBike... tempted about dismantling the Cyclone out of the eBike and stick it on the trike but I know that will be a dumb thing to do.

I was impressed with the ride of the KMX, after testing the ICE, Catrike and FS Scorpion at the local bike show I was expecting an inferior ride on this guy, and I am sorry if this pisses some of the "brand name" trike owners with their overpriced stuff, but this "low price" steel KMX rides a heck of a lot better than any of these trikes I tried at the show for a fraction of the cost! This trike doesn't have the thing I hated the most on all of those aluminum trikes I tried: pedal steer, as in when you pedal hard the trike leans (or flexes) to the opposite side of your pedal... this guy doesn't flex a bit and is rock solid, perfect for ebike application!!

I will post pictures once the trike is fully e-converted, but in I am already doing some mock-ups on battery placement. I'll build my own custom headlights as well for this guy, except I am shooting for 12,000 lumens out the front and 6000 lumens out the back, plus a navigation strobe so cars don't run me over b/c lets face it: this thing is LOW!!

G.
 
Nice, did you get it to run? How is it work?


sather said:
I hope this saves someone some time.
TOOLS NECESSARY for 73mm Cyclone 3000 install:
(For kit purchased from Luna, other kits may vary)
Chain tool
Bottom bracket removal tool
Crank arm removal tool
Pedal wrench
Metric allen wrench set
20t ISIS socket to tighten Cyclone BB cups
14mm socket and socket wrench (tighten cranks)
Solder gun and solder
bottom bracket locking tool to tighten BB lock ring (or hit with screwdriver and hammer)
Side cutters or wire strippers

TO BUY LIST:
plumbing clamps to go around down tube ( to replace big zip tie)
single speed bmx chain
appropriate battery connector
Electrical tape
Locktite and thread cleaner
bag of plastic zip ties
Click to expand...
 
Hey Gman...

How are you going to wire up your 6Sx16 bricks? 3S 2P. Are you going to wire up the bricks in Parallel first and then in series or 3 bricks in series and then in parallel right before the connection to the speed control? I was thinking on mine I would use XT60's for all the series and parallel connections and a XT90 spark resistant for the connection to the controller with 10 awg silicone wire for everything, does that sound about right?

If I run a parallel connection right before the XT90 I can run just 3 packs if I don't need all my range, like short hops to work and around town. If I'm going to the mountains and need all the range I can carry, I can just plug in the other 3 pack series bundle and double my range.

If I run parallel first I can leave my packs built up in 2 brick parallel bundles and charge them that way also. With a 2 into 1 parallel balance harness. How I have the packs setup on the bike will determine what charger I end up buying also. I have been racing RC cars for years and been running lipos ever since they first came out. But unfortunately all my chargers only go to 5S lipo.....LOL. So I'm either going to get a 4 output charger and charge 3 sets of 2 bricks in parallel or get a high wattage 2 output charger and charge two sets of 3 bricks in parallel.

If I charge 3 6S packs in parallel I'll have essentially one 6S 48,000 mAh pack that I can charge at 1C or 48 amps????
 
I don't remember where I found this photo. Does somebody know who did this mount for what it looks like a Cyclone 3000 motor? Does somebody else can do it for me?

Thanks!

PS: G, looking forward to see your build.
 

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This is going to be a 72V exclusive trike. So it will be a 18S2p (three banks of 2 6S batteries in parallel.) I will run XT90s all across. I don't need to run antispark on anything except the main connector for the motor so that cuts on the cost quite a bit.

've already done all the wiring for balancing the 6 batteries using a DB25 connector so I won't have to mess with any of that. I am not keen on BMS...

So when charging it will be like a gigantic (EDIT 6S x 16000 mAh) 96,000 mAh 6S pack; I'll probably charge these at 60 amps, around ~1400 watts, so it will take about 1.5 hours for a full recharge... but ATM I haven't gotten that far yet. I am still getting past the honeymoon stage with the trike and I don't have a 60 amp LiPo charger at hand either, and my best one can only do 20 amps on a good day so recharging that kind of a massive pack will be a ~5 hour ordeal with my currently best charger. Looks like I'll have to spring for a massive power supply and a massive charger as well...

I am taking it easy really, I got the trike and b/c I have a very reliable eBike I am not in any rush to finish this guy... like they say, it will be done when its done. I have big plans for this guy so stay tuned for some updates... and this goes well past the "sticking a <name your mid drive here> motor on it" kind of deal... :)

G.

EMCO said:
Hey Gman...

How are you going to wire up your 6Sx16 bricks? 3S 2P. Are you going to wire up the bricks in Parallel first and then in series or 3 bricks in series and then in parallel right before the connection to the speed control? I was thinking on mine I would use XT60's for all the series and parallel connections and a XT90 spark resistant for the connection to the controller with 10 awg silicone wire for everything, does that sound about right?

If I run a parallel connection right before the XT90 I can run just 3 packs if I don't need all my range, like short hops to work and around town. If I'm going to the mountains and need all the range I can carry, I can just plug in the other 3 pack series bundle and double my range.

If I run parallel first I can leave my packs built up in 2 brick parallel bundles and charge them that way also. With a 2 into 1 parallel balance harness. How I have the packs setup on the bike will determine what charger I end up buying also. I have been racing RC cars for years and been running lipos ever since they first came out. But unfortunately all my chargers only go to 5S lipo.....LOL. So I'm either going to get a 4 output charger and charge 3 sets of 2 bricks in parallel or get a high wattage 2 output charger and charge two sets of 3 bricks in parallel.

If I charge 3 6S packs in parallel I'll have essentially one 6S 48,000 mAh pack that I can charge at 1C or 48 amps????
Click to expand...
 
Hello cyclone 3000w folks

Found this great video with an alternative mounting system for round tube installs. I think I might do a similar mounting when I install my kit on a square tube trike. Take a look it's a great method and eliminates all the stock mounting hardware.

http://youtu.be/3FVt1rPqHIg

Take a look.

Afton Rider

Dom
 
Nice, but I think you're going to need some serious amount of metal to hold the motor under power... If I had the capabilities to weld stuff like you do I would've made the mount out of solid steel, not Aluminum... you might need a crossmember to address torsional loads due to the frame acting as a fulcrum when you apply torque.

G.

Aftonrider said:
Hello cyclone 3000w folks

Found this great video with an alternative mounting system for round tube installs. I think I might do a similar mounting when I install my kit on a square tube trike. Take a look it's a great method and eliminates all the stock mounting hardware.

http://youtu.be/3FVt1rPqHIg

Take a look.

Afton Rider

Dom
Click to expand...
 
Creative and resourceful!

Aftonrider said:
Hello cyclone 3000w folks

Found this great video with an alternative mounting system for round tube installs. I think I might do a similar mounting when I install my kit on a square tube trike. Take a look it's a great method and eliminates all the stock mounting hardware.

http://youtu.be/3FVt1rPqHIg

Take a look.

Afton Rider

Dom
Click to expand...
 
Hey Gman: Thanks again for all your help. The Cyclone works perfectly. I built it for my son who is an ex BMX "biker dude". He's crazy and has had numerous broken bones to prove it. I loaned him one of my 52 volt Em3ev batteries and he's out doing wheelies. No problems so far. He's extremely happy with the bike. I am a little concerned about the motor mounts because he is planning to buy a 70volt battery, and has volunteered me to do the maintenance on the bike.
BTW: The Cyclone 3000 is far faster than BBSHD. The Bafang feels anemic by comparison.
 
sather said:
Hey Gman: Thanks again for all your help. The Cyclone works perfectly. I built it for my son who is an ex BMX "biker dude". He's crazy and has had numerous broken bones to prove it. I loaned him one of my 52 volt Em3ev batteries and he's out doing wheelies. No problems so far. He's extremely happy with the bike. I am a little concerned about the motor mounts because he is planning to buy a 70volt battery, and has volunteered me to do the maintenance on the bike.
BTW: The Cyclone 3000 is far faster than BBSHD. The Bafang feels anemic by comparison.
Click to expand...

Very nice! I am glad its working out great for your son... and it sounds like he is having a blast already!! :) Wheelies might shorten the life of the kit and 72V + wheelies expect anything in the drivetrain to break...

Interesting comment about the BBSHD...that's sort of what I've been trying to explain to some people all along that if you want performance, why bother with external controllers on the BBSHD, might as well get a Cyclone 3000 (with an external controller) and be done with it: I think its hard to understand how stupid fast this Cyclone kit really is... and we're not running it on 72V either...

G.
 
Föppel said:
interesting motor, whats the KV on that? 1:5 reduction planetary?

gman1971 said:
Wheelies might shorten the life of the kit and 72V + wheelies expect anything in the drivetrain to break...
Click to expand...
gman, what power do you get from this motor without fails on anything?

cheers man
Click to expand...

Not sure about the KV... I think it might be a 1:5 planetary...

I am running mine on 44.4 volts nominal (12S LiPo) with peaks of 50 amps and sustained 40 amps runs. My commute is around ~1500 watts average and 2.2 kW peaks when pushing it. Just normal chain wear, lube and keep clean and it will last. I am running a 10 speed too, which is supposed to be fairly weak...

G.
 
Very nice! I am glad its working out great for your son... and it sounds like he is having a blast already!! :) Wheelies might shorten the life of the kit and 72V + wheelies expect anything in the drivetrain to break...

Interesting comment about the BBSHD...that's sort of what I've been trying to explain to some people all along that if you want performance, why bother with external controllers on the BBSHD, might as well get a Cyclone 3000 (with an external controller) and be done with it: I think its hard to understand how stupid fast this Cyclone kit really is... and we're not running it on 72V either...

G.
Click to expand...

I agree. It is pointless to try to soup up the BBSHD. I melted the exact same plastic gear in my 750 watt BBS02 running a 32 tooth chainring!
 
Anyone know if all the black wires in the Stock Cyclone 40A controller are all the same? (ground) The reason Im asking is that I wanted to clean up my wire harness and cut off most of the connectors I was not using, including the Mode select wires. I can find the colored wires fine, but I am not sure which black wire goes along with the mode wires. There are a bunch of black wires, im hoping they are all just ground wires and I can use anyone of them.

If anyone knows for sure please let me know.
 
Got all 6 packs secured on the trike last night and then went for a 5 mile ride, on human power, to test the "performance" with those packs. I didn't notice much of a difference going up an 11% hill, but the trike is a lot harder to flip now, and not just a bit, now its considerably harder and I was trying hard with some stupid stunts.

I'll probably run a 12V preliminary test once I get all the 12V rail connectors. I am hoping to have the trike fully operational in about 2 weeks.

Pictures then. :)

G.
 
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