new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

Yea. I agree with DA about active balancers hiding a problem but only when it applies to lithium ion or LiPo.

Active balancers for LIFE and LTO technology is 100% safe and can save hours a week external balancing and 6S balance charging.

Thanks.

LC. out.

As repeated many a time ... if you need to balance your battery at every use ... you have a defective battery and must repair it!
Have you even tried testing, as I specifically instructed?
Simple test will diagnose for actual capacity, self-discharge, bad cell etc.

Mattel has a problem.

Not sure how or why. They were in series all the way there and back. Was a little sluggish on the way back but plenty of power on the way there.

Please let me know. I tried a 5V phone charger and spliced the wires but voltage from the charger dropped to zero when I hooked it up. None of the cell banks in either 6S - 5P pack was abnormally low. All around 25 to 30% and above 3.2V when I got back.

It really does not make any sense. Not sure how to charge it. If it were Lion or LiPo there would be no hope at all. However these are LIFEPO4 cells so might be a way.

I was wondering how it could complete a series connection at zero volts. I hooked my other meter up and got that.

Once again, you should have tested and compared actual capacity!
Lower capacity 1s was drained completely dead.
Whether "totally dead" or "salvageable" remains to be seen:
Set charger to NiCd and .1A;
Charge and watch voltage climb;
After NiCd reaches 2V+, reset to LiFe and charge at .5A.

Test 1s, as instructed, for defect and actual capacity!

I was wondering how it could complete a series connection at zero volts. I hooked my other meter up and got that.

The cell gradually stops adding voltage, draws high IR amps and begins cooking the cell. as neg V gets sucked out, cell chemistry deteriorates! At 0V, cell still maintains continuity, it just adds no V. SSWAG

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

Thanks DA.

Well.

The two 6S - 5P packs seem to have balanced well.

Looks like that low cell in the 4s - 5P pack is a problem. Especially since I charged it SOLO and the voltage dropped again quickly. But could of made a mistake. Drinking. I will double check.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=armgnfsHVbg

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

Wow. Budget?
You’ve wasted a LOT money on half baked schemes. And after all these posts and responses you still can’t sort shit from Shinola.

 

[latecurtis]

Shinola is a defunct American brand of shoe polish. ... It was popular during the first half of the 20th century and entered the American lexicon in the phrase, "You don't know shit from Shinola," meaning to be ignorant.

Yea.

First time I ever herd of that one.

Thanks. I learned something new today.

Well.

I did finally learn how to tin a cell. I don't drop cold solder balls now. No I am not a master solder guy but better that I was.

I learned about gearing and different battery chemistries, How to install chain drives as the Currie has a few miles on it now and the chain is still tight.

I am better at brakes than I was. Back before this post when I just ran pedal bikes I always used my shoe for a brake rubbing against the back tire or sliding my feet on the ground like the Flintstones.

I know about the inside of a brush motor and a direct drive as had both apart and soldered the wires and ran the motors after.

I know about balancers both active and external.

As far as accomplishments I own eight e bikes , five with motors installed and three future projects and the FX - 75 - 5 motor.

Also 60V of LTO. Brand spanking new and not compromised in any way.

I still have several things to accomplished like a belt drive system and a dual brush motor e bike which will go > 40 mph and the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and Haro - V3.

Yea.

I think I got something going on.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Set charger to NiCd and .1A;
Charge and watch voltage climb;
After NiCd reaches 2V+, reset to LiFe and charge at .5A.

It don't work.

Charger reads FULL in a couple minutes. Way before 2V is reached. I tried dozens of times and explored every setting possible.

What about resisters. I have a pre hook up cable. It has resisters inline.

I have a lot of 18650 cells around 4V. 1S Strings in parallel 7 or 10P 18650 cells. I would need a resister or resisters to limit the current. But hook in parallel with the dead 1S - 5P - LIFE.

I could do it outside in the back yard.

Would it work ???????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Cells are cooked, destroyed.
5p bank was not fully charged or had bad cell, discharged below "empty".
Bms, or monitoring with volt meter, (quick voltage drop), immediate stop, could likely have saved.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

Sometimes I feel like everything I touch turns to shit. I am thinking about ordering those after I move if they are still available.

I just wish someone else besides me could separate them. I could probably solder wires for series connections but would rather pay DA - $50 bucks. That way I know I have a good battery pack.

I do not think I will be running the two 6S - 5P packs or the 3S - 5P then until after I get the active balancers. The active balancers will steal power from the higher cells to feed the low cells. Right ???

That should prevent any cell bank from going to 0V or under 2V right ?

I will need a better power meter that I can see in daylight. It needs to be hooked up all the time so I can see total and SAG voltage. The active balancers should take care of the rest.

Was the first time running the 1S - 5P pack that hit 0V though.
Kind of hard to believe that string is dead. I have re charged 12V car batteries that were completely dead. It just makes no sense. I do not really need it anyway. I have the 10 amp 43.8V charger for 12S and 54.6V for 15S.

If it did charge would probably not have much capacity. However was first time ever run. It should come back but not with the LiPo charger.

I wish there was a way to trickle charge it at 3.6V. 0.5A for a couple days to see what happens. I tried every setting on the 6S - LiPo charger.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

I do not think I will be running the two 6S - 5P packs or the 3S - 5P then until after I get the active balancers. The active balancers will steal power from the higher cells to feed the low cells. Right ???

That should prevent any cell bank from going to 0V or under 2V right ?

No, not unless you have a 40A active balancer.
And yes, you do need to use a BMS on all your builds!
All your extra effort and expensive add-ons, patches, band-aids are poor substitutes for the minimal extra effort required for a "proper" battery build methodology.

 

[latecurtis]

No, not unless you have a 40A active balancer.
And yes, you do need to use a BMS on all your builds!

I thought you did not like BMSs either.

The thing is I ran the two 6S - 5P packs at least 100 miles and only tripped LVC like the 3rd time I ran them as did not know about the capacity and SAG.

I think I might have discharged instead of charged the 1S - 5P pack by mistake.

The 4S - 5P pack will go between the two 6S packs. Not on the end like I did with the 1S pack. All three will have active balancers.

I can run 12S or 15S. I have a 10 amp 12S charger that is 43.8V and a 15 amp 15S charger that is 54.6V. Perfect for 36V controllers or 48V controllers. The 1S - 5P pack I destroyed will make no difference. It was just a few extra cells I did not need.

I am charging all three packs in series now with the brand new 54.6V - 15 amp charger. ( bottom pics)

Thinking about a fuse between all male bullets.

current flows both ways in a fuse right ???

It should work right ???

Please let me know DA.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

I do not think I will be running the two 6S - 5P packs or the 3S - 5P then until after I get the active balancers. The active balancers will steal power from the higher cells to feed the low cells. Right ???

That should prevent any cell bank from going to 0V or under 2V right ?

No, not unless you have a 40A active balancer.
And yes, you do need to use a BMS on all your builds!

I thought you did not like BMSs either.

Costly add on that only does anything if you have a defective build, or if you try to severely abuse your battery.
So, you need to use them!
Would have saved your 1s cells ... stranded you though ...

You (LC) really do "need" to protect yourself ... from yourself, (from your ignorance and your incompetence)!

 

[latecurtis]

OK.

Thanks DA.

They say it is possible to run an active balancer with a BMS.

Since there are three separate packs. - two - 6S and one 3S - then I will need three separate BMSs and I might as well get BMSs with the blue tooth.

Did you look at my wiring diagram and pictures ?????

Since I made it impossible to hook negative to positive and short a pack that way by hooking all female bullets if I were to put a 80 amp fuse in my male bullet wires for the series connections between the packs that are color coded that would make it 100% idiot proof right ???????

I have one more important question which is up your alley DA. as you are an expert on 18650 Lion cells.

I think I told you that I got rid of the old 10S hoverboard packs. The old packs I gave to John. My wife's son and told him to charge them outside. They were all working with absolutely no issues but stopped running them because I bought the 10S - 4P laudation pack and was running them in parallel with two 10S - 2P hoverboard packs I also bought new at the same time.


It was 10S - 8P total and only about two years old with maybe 100 to 200 cycles. They stopped working. One day after fully charging all three packs. I hooked them up and the bike barley moved. Not totally dead but not usable and unhooked them to avoid a fire or explosion.

All three packs have their own BMS. So much for my faith in a BMS. It is why I question how any BMS could be better than an active balancer and carefully placed fuses. ?????????


Anyway I tested the 10S - 4P - Laudation pack and all 10 cell banks were exactly 4.18 or 4.19V.

I could not test the 10S - 5P hoverboard packs as the way they are built. But I could unhook the balance plugs from the BMSs.

I ordered a 10S balance plug extension with the last of the money on my card. I am hoping when the extension wire comes in that I can fix the two hover board packs with the 10S active balancer. I bought two 10S active balancers for the LTOs but should work with Lion.

I could plug in the active balancer right now but am dealing with Lion. FIRECRACKER batteries. I need to see what the voltage is on each cell bank but do NOT have any 10S plug. Only 6S. Those are the only cables I have .



Sure I could try to make a 10S extension by hacking up two 6S cables but if I fail and a short happens I could blow myself up or set myself on fire. I really need two 10S extensions. One so I can do the stick of wood to measure each cell bank with a multi meter. I can even charge up a low cell bank that way if not too low. I need to measure each cell bank of the two hoverboard packs. If none are low and all look good then I know I have a bad BMS or BMSs. If any cell bank is below 3V it is unsafe to charge or try and balance right ????????????????????

I basically put all three packs in plastic storage boxes and stuck them in a metal pail when I started building LIFEPO4 packs. The thing is I need to run 10S - Lion as they do not take up a lot of space and will run any of my Bafang motors. Also the E bikeling motors. SO six Bafangs and two E bikeling geared hub motors for 10S - Lion.

The Currie 36V chain would run much better with the 15S - LIFE as it is geared for 36V. With 12S - 43V - LIFE it only gets about 33 or 34V after SAG so with 54V - 15S I will get 44 or 45V after SAG and > 30 mph.

Then the 26" dual suspension can run 15S - 54V for the 1,000W - 48V rear hub and 10S - Lion for the front Bafang.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Since I made it impossible to hook negative to positive and short a pack that way by hooking all female bullets if I were to put a 80 amp fuse in my male bullet wires for the series connections between the packs that are color coded that would make it 100% idiot proof right ???????

With decades of experience striving to create the idiot-proof computer ... I state with conviction that "idiots" will and do, evolve to, somehow, defeat any and all idiot proofing measures! Clearly, you (LC), will develop new and resourceful ways to screw up any safeguards, I have faith in your abilities!!

 

[DrkAngel]

Testing 10s plug, using 6s extension

Simple and (reasonably) idiot proof!

Cut ends of 6s extension to allow plugging onto either end of 10s plug.



Hook other end to 7s meter,
(Retained notches make connection simple = quasi-idiot-proof)
Meter 1-6s,
Meter 5-10s.

You can test 10s4p cells directly with multi-meter! ???

(I still think it likely that batteries are just fine and blame ignorance for reputed problem)

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. I got the Currie blues.

Yea.

I have not rode in about a week. I do not even want to ride anymore.

A gas powered bike probably about 50 cc caught up to the Currie and passed me going up a hill. I wanted to throw the Currie over a bridge.

frocking junk. Garbage LIFEPO4 batteries with no power. SAGGING trash !!!!!!!!!. I was only running 12S though as waiting on the active balancers to run 15S but still not sure if it can beat the gas bike even then.

The LIFEPO4s do serve a purpose. They will run all my geared hub motors rated at 350W or 500W. I can run two geared hub motors so the Diamondback Outlook and the Giant Roam. Also when I get a 10S - 36V Lion pack going I can run the Bafang on the front of the Currie and 15S - 54V - LIFEPO4 for the rear chain drive. I will just need a 48V - 40 amp brush controller. It might beat that gas bike then hopefully.

So basically the LIFEPO4s are good for the Currie and the two e bikes running dual geared hub motors plus the 20" Turbo. That could run 15S - LIFE or the 13S - 20 Ah - Lion pack but the LIFE would be safer since I am practically sitting on the battery. That is four e bikes so will be keeping the LIFEPO4s then.

That leaves some unfinished business though. What to do about these pesky gas bikes rolling around that the owners think are something special.

I will be finishing the 20S - 54V - LTO pack. Yea. It will be a single pack. NOT two separate packs but will still run two 10S active balancers. It will stay in series though and will be hard wired in series for 20S. There will be no bullet plugs for a series connection and will charge with my 54.6V - 15 amp charger exclusively.





That is as far as I got but will probably have to add brackets to hold it together. It will be a lot of work so only doing it with the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor and the 26" dual suspension. The Bafang on the front of the 26" bike will be uninstalled and the 750W gear reduction motor will replace it. Total power will be > 2 kilowatts and gearing > 30 mph.

The 36V 800W motor will go on the front of the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor on the back. I will order a 13T motor sprocket and #25H chain for 38 mph gearing. The 1,800W brushless motor is already geared for 38 mph at 54V.

No way the gas bike will pass either bike up a hill again and the gas bike will need to go 40 mph to beat the 20" bike. If that happens then will start building the Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and build a 4S - LTO pack for a front basket for full 24S - 64.8V - LTO. That should do the trick with 47 mph gearing. That gas bike will need to go about 50 mph then to win.

Either way the gas junk will go down. He may have won one a battle but the war is far from over.

That said I have a big question for DA.



They have the same power modules on sale $75 for two. I have two now but if I spend $225 more could have 8. I Just am to scared to hook up that much power and amps. Also I do not know how to program the Sevcon controller. I am not sure it will take 100+ volts. 54 * 2 = 104V. 104V and 400 amps should get me around 100 mph right ????????

I was not thinking about right now but if DA could fit it in his schedule sometime next year like mabye the spring time it gives me time to find a 250 or 400 cc dirt bike with a blown gas motor and strip it out. I will need help installing everything but will have all the parts if I order 6 more of those power modules.

DA. Please let me know. I will pay you at least 2 to 3 hundred bucks and you can ride the bike too if you want to. I should be able to make it to where you are at least once a year. We could ride it off road or on a race track.

I was going to run the FX motor with LTOs but 18 Ah might get me 5 miles if I am lucky at > 60 mph. The power modules have greater energy density. If they still have them I could order four every month. Eight in parallel series is minimum. Perhaps 12 would be better. I just do not know how many would be needed for 20 or 30 miles.

What I do know is about what you said when I got the two modules.

One BMS to rule them all

Since 13S is considered 48V I will need a 26S - 96V - 400 amp Bluetooth BMS. I have no clue at all about a charger. I would like to charge at any EV station but no clue what the voltage is there ??????????

I would like 50 miles at 60 mph highway speeds then could get my motorcycle license and charge at the EV charging stations. Obviously setting that up is beyond my skills. I build e bikes. Not electric motorcycles.

I have been sitting on the FX motor and controller for several years now. We know who sent me the motor. I do not have to say so we know I was chosen to build it but really need help. I cant do it alone. It is not a tinker toy and must be safe. That is why I am getting a 250cc or 400cc bike frame and NOT a 125 cc.

Please at least think it over.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I used to cut up those balance connectors, a razor blade works well to go from a 6S (which had 7 wires) cut down to 4S or 5 wires.

I can't believe Curtis is still having problems, first he was calling Lifepo4 safe and now he's calling them junk. I just had to read a few random lines to see Curtis is still struggling hard. Now he knows he damaged his cells if he was once raving about Lifepo4's and now calling them junk.

I have been busy lately so haven't had much free time on my hands. The one thing I learned, email extensions matter :lol:

 

[Chalo]

Now he knows he damaged his cells if he was once raving about Lifepo4's and now calling them junk.

Cooking them with abundant solder and poor technique surely didn't help.

 

[markz]

Poor technique falls into the solder droplets and cold joints.

Now he knows he damaged his cells if he was once raving about Lifepo4's and now calling them junk.

Cooking them with abundant solder and poor technique surely didn't help.

 

[latecurtis]

Cooking them with abundant solder and poor technique surely didn't help.

Now he knows he damaged his cells if he was once raving about Lifepo4's and now calling them junk

Yea.

There is one huge problem with that theory however.

I have no other LIFEPO4 batteries to compare them to. How do I know if that much SAG is a normal thing with LIFEPO4 cells. If I do not have a 12S factory made spot welded pack to compare mine to then we are guessing that the packs I soldered are severely damaged.

They will still run at least four of my e bikes. They just will not go 30 mph at 12S - 43V. I still have not ran them at 54V - 15S.
That will happen soon. Just waiting on the active balancers which will keep any cell bank from going too low.

Until then I am working on the LTOs. One way or the other I am blowing these junk gas bikes off the road. I do not like being passed by gas.

Thanks.

9"45 PM.

Yea.

I just went back to Wall-Mart again. Same trip. Basically the Currie is a super reliable street legal cargo bike. It is not currently set up to beat a well built 50cc gas powered mountain bike. For one thing the gas bike has gears for hills and top speed. I do not.

Also the problem with the batteries is NOT my soldering job and here is why.

Brand: K2
Model: LFP26650E
Capacity: 3800mah
Nominal Voltage: 3.2
Fully Charged Voltage: 3.65 (recommended), 4.1 (maximum)
Fully Discharged Voltage: 2.5 (recommended), 2.0 (maximum)
Continuous Discharge (A): 12
Pulse 30 Seconds Discharge (A): 28
Charge Current (A): 3.8

compare those specs. to these.

NOMINAL VOLTAGE: 3.2V
CAPACITY: 6000MAH
WATT HOURS: 19.2WH
FULLY CHARGED VOLTAGE: 3.65V
FULLY DISCHARGED VOLTAGE: 2.5V
MAX CONTINUOUS CHARGE: 6A (1C)
MAX CONTINUOUS DISCHARGE: 18A (3C)
MAX PULSE DISCHARGE (10 SECONDS): 60A (10C)
CELL WEIGHT: 141 GRAMS OR 4.97 OUNCES

I bought the wrong cells. The cells I bought are low capacity and lower discharge. That is why they SAG like they do. Once I move and get settled I will buy a bunch of the better higher grade cells and will go 18S - 6P.

3.8 * 5 = 19 vs 6 * 6 = 36.

Yea. Also 26650 LIFE cells are rated for capacity a lot different than Lion or LiPo. They rate LIFE down to 2.5V which is only 30V @ 12S. way too low for most 36V controllers. Basically I am only running about 10 Ah compared to Lion. LIFE is 1/2 the capacity of Lion. If I build a 36 Ah - LIFE pack it will = 18Ah of Lion. It is the trade off for > 5,000 charge cycles.

I need at least 10 miles preferably 15 miles before I need to recharge. Otherwise I cant go from one town to the next. The LIFE packs I have now have a < 10 mile range before they will trip an LVC. It is why I am running the brush controller that has no LVC. That will not help me with my brushless motors however so will be building a larger LIFE pack with the better cells.

Until then I will run what I have but will soon be running 15S - 5P which should get me an upgrade in performance over 12S - 5P. Maybe 3 or 4 extra miles also if I stay around 10 mph. It will have to do for now. Fortunately most of the places I go are < 5 miles and have places where I can recharge. Therefore I will get a lot of use from the inferior cells I have now.

Even at 15S the lower capacity and discharge cells might not beat the gas bike but will at least give it a better run for its money.

The LTOs however should smoke that gas bike.

The question I had for DA. remains unanswered. Since - the 24 - LTOs I own are only 18 Ah and way too expensive to order more the best bet for an electric motorcycle and the 28 kilowatt Sevcon controller is 12 of those power modules DA recommended.
I will require a 400 amp 96V - BMS.

Since I fall a little short from being a professional reputable e bike builder I was hoping someone more experienced could hook that up. If not DA. then someone with at least a Bachler's degree in electrical engineering who is not scared to death of high current and voltage applications.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Yeah your ego is large, nothing new in that department. Sometimes life is about ego deflation and humility which has been taught throughout the eon's and 1930's.

One way or the other I am blowing these junk gas bikes off the road. I do not like being passed by gas.

Why would you buy low discharge cells? So you basically bought at full price laptop cells to fit on your ebike. At 12A discharge you need to put more strings in parallel then playing the 2S + 3S connect a battery game.

bought the wrong cells. The cells I bought are low capacity and lower discharge.

Aren't those like 20 or 30A each? That should have been your go to, which would be good for your motorcycle motor.

26650 LIFE cells are rated for capacity a lot different than Lion or LiPo. They rate

 

[DrkAngel]

LC "knows" too much, like some others I have run into he creates little bricks of info and builds solid walls in his mind, highly resistant to allowing variance or fresh-new ideas, creating a form of mental constipation.

Cooking them with abundant solder and poor technique surely didn't help.

Now he knows he damaged his cells if he was once raving about Lifepo4's and now calling them junk

Yea.

There is one huge problem with that theory however.

I have no other LIFEPO4 batteries to compare them to. How do I know if that much SAG is a normal thing with LIFEPO4 cells. If I do not have a 12S factory made spot welded pack to compare mine to then we are guessing that the packs I soldered are severely damaged.
I posted a representative LiFe discharge graph that clearly demonstrates the typical LiFe charge and discharge "voltage lag".

They will still run at least four of my e bikes. They just will not go 30 mph at 12S - 43V. I still have not ran them at 54V - 15S.
That will happen soon. Just waiting on the active balancers which will keep any cell bank from going too low.
Not what they do!

Until then I am working on the LTOs. One way or the other I am blowing these junk gas bikes off the road. I do not like being passed by gas.
Speed is the enemy of range!

Thanks.

9"45 PM.

Yea.

I just went back to Wall-Mart again. Same trip. Basically the Currie is a super reliable street legal cargo bike. It is not currently set up to beat a well built 50cc gas powered mountain bike. For one thing the gas bike has gears for hills and top speed. I do not.

Also the problem with the batteries is NOT my soldering job and here is why.

Brand: K2
Model: LFP26650E
Capacity: 3800mah
Nominal Voltage: 3.2
Fully Charged Voltage: 3.65 (recommended), 4.1 (maximum)
Fully Discharged Voltage: 2.5 (recommended), 2.0 (maximum)
Continuous Discharge (A): 12
Pulse 30 Seconds Discharge (A): 28
Charge Current (A): 3.8

compare those specs. to these.

NOMINAL VOLTAGE: 3.2V
CAPACITY: 6000MAH
WATT HOURS: 19.2WH
FULLY CHARGED VOLTAGE: 3.65V
FULLY DISCHARGED VOLTAGE: 2.5V
MAX CONTINUOUS CHARGE: 6A (1C)
MAX CONTINUOUS DISCHARGE: 18A (3C)
MAX PULSE DISCHARGE (10 SECONDS): 60A (10C)
CELL WEIGHT: 141 GRAMS OR 4.97 OUNCES

I bought the wrong cells. The cells I bought are low capacity and lower discharge. That is why they SAG like they do. Once I move and get settled I will buy a bunch of the better higher grade cells and will go 18S - 6P.
Just because you suspect 1 Cause, does not eliminate another cause.

3.8 * 5 = 19 vs 6 * 6 = 36.

Yea. Also 26650 LIFE cells are rated for capacity a lot different than Lion or LiPo. They rate LIFE down to 2.5V which is only 30V @ 12S. way too low for most 36V controllers. Basically I am only running about 10 Ah compared to Lion. LIFE is 1/2 the capacity of Lion. If I build a 36 Ah - LIFE pack it will = 18Ah of Lion. It is the trade off for > 5,000 charge cycles.
30V is a standard 36V LVC.

I need at least 10 miles preferably 15 miles before I need to recharge. Otherwise I cant go from one town to the next. The LIFE packs I have now have a < 10 mile range before they will trip an LVC. It is why I am running the brush controller that has no LVC. That will not help me with my brushless motors however so will be building a larger LIFE pack with the better cells.
Running a controller with no LVC, to get more range, is a pretty sure way to destroy more cells!

Until then I will run what I have but will soon be running 15S - 5P which should get me an upgrade in performance over 12S - 5P. Maybe 3 or 4 extra miles also if I stay around 10 mph. It will have to do for now. Fortunately most of the places I go are < 5 miles and have places where I can recharge. Therefore I will get a lot of use from the inferior cells I have now.

Even at 15S the lower capacity and discharge cells might not beat the gas bike but will at least give it a better run for its money.

The LTOs however should smoke that gas bike.
Better get a trailer to haul around all that LTO!

The question I had for DA. remains unanswered. Since - the 24 - LTOs I own are only 18 Ah and way too expensive to order more the best bet for an electric motorcycle and the 28 kilowatt Sevcon controller is 12 of those power modules DA recommended.
I will require a 400 amp 96V - BMS.
Have you even tested the 13s "power modules"? Been setting for months!

Since I fall a little short from being a professional reputable e bike builder I was hoping someone more experienced could hook that up. If not DA. then someone with at least a Bachler's degree in electrical engineering who is not scared to death of high current and voltage applications.
Anyone with basic electrical awareness, and common sense, should be "qualified". As mentioned earlier I decline to try to idiotproof anyone's wet dream ... LC would prove too clever, and defeat my efforts!!

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Why would you buy low discharge cells? So you basically bought at full price laptop cells to fit on your ebike. At 12A discharge you need to put more strings in parallel then playing the 2S + 3S connect a battery game.

The answer is simple. It was the first time buying 26650 cells and I thought I was getting a deal but was really not. For a few dollars more I would have got close to double the capacity and a lot higher discharge rate.

The thing is I can still get hundreds of miles from them but not at 30 mph. Maybe 26 or 27 mph at 15S. At 12S they are lucky to hit 24 mph on the flat. I think I saw 27 mph at one time though in a video. Not sure how flat it was though.

It is ok though. I have LTOs and hundreds of 18650 cells too. I am not limited to LIFE batteries.

Riding an e bike in the city with inter sections and potholes and pedestrians plus critters > 20 mph can become a safety hazard plus not legal. It is why I run Bafangs. They are just great for 0 to 17 mph on flat ground. I just need to run a separate battery for a rear motor that can do big hills and around 30 mph on the flat.

Basically if the rear motor can only do 4 or 5 mph more than a Bafang then it is under powered. Like the Currie is now with 12S LIFE. I think at 15S - 54V the LIFEPO4s will run the Currie close to 30 mph or 30 mph. I just need a separate 36V battery for the Bafang up front.

The same for the 26" dual suspension. I keep changing my mind on that. One day I am swapping for the gear reduction chain and the next day am not. Thing is I am frocking lazy so would rather not. I would rather run the rear 48V DD at 54 or 60V and keep the Bafang on the front with a separate 36V battery pack.

Better get a trailer to haul around all that LTO!

I am building a triangle battery. 20S - LTO. It will fit on the frame of 20 to 26" e bikes. sliding adjustable for even weight distribution.

Have you even tested the 13s "power modules"? Been setting for months!

I did test voltage with the multimeter and every cell bank was good.

The thing is though I bought the LIFE batteries and LTOs first. I was going to use the LTOs for an electric motorcycle. However they might be better for a heavy e bike instead as very low energy density. Thinking the 26" dual suspension and Haro V3.

If I want 50 miles range at 60 mph with an e motorcycle then I need to run higher density batteries. That is why I asked if 12 power modules could do 50 miles at 60 mph with the FX - 75 - 5 motor. Those modules are way cheaper than LTO.

I know the LTOs would run the FX 75 - 5 motor but how far ????? 1 or 2 miles at top speed ????? Maybe 4 or 5 miles at 40 or 50 mph?

I am looking for 50 miles at 50 or 60 mph and 10 or 15 miles at like 90 mph. How many power modules will be required ????????

Could I please get an answer DA.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Your 24 LTO = 55.2V x 18Ah = 993.6 Wh
~ 1kWh
which will give you a range of:

15mph = 75 miles
20mph = 49 miles
25mph = 34 miles
30mph = 23 miles
35mph = 18 miles
40mph = 14 miles
45mph = 11 miles
50mph = 8.8 miles
60mph = 5.8 miles
90mph = 2.7 miles

~ 10kWh for 58 miles @ 60mph
or
~27 miles @ 90mph

Power modules = 48.1V x 6Ah = 288.6wh
10kWh / 288.6Wh = 34.65 Power modules!

 

[nicobie]

This thread is going seriously off topic. I have deleted a few posts.

 

[latecurtis]

This thread is going seriously off topic. I have deleted a few posts.

Oh.

OK.

No problem bro.

You are right. It is off topic.

I need to get back to building my LTOs. I wont post until I get something accomplished then.

Thanks.

LC. out.