new eZip motor

[mark5]

Links to bullet connectors in my previous post above.

Crimper
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
or
Klein Tools 1005 9-3/4-Inch Crimping and Cutting Tool for Insulated and Non-Insulated Terminals
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M
or
GB GS-388 8-Inch Crimping Electrical Plier
http://www.amazon.com/GB-GS-388-8-Inch-Crimping-Electrical/dp/B00079LN1Y
above Klein and GB tools are also at Home Depot

Butt splice crimp connectors recommended by TheBeastie here. Can use with 4mm bullet connectors with leads (eBay links posted before).
100 NON-INSULATED BUTT CONNECTORS WIRE TERMINALS UNINSULATED SPLICE 12-10 GA USA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-NON-INS...ideo_Connectors_Terminals&hash=item3f39a249c0

Your old soldering iron should be 60- or 80-watt or larger to solder main power wires.

 

[latecurtis]

Ok Ill get the cheap one at Home Depot. They don't have the bullet connectors though. Is there anywhere I can get them besides online.

 

[mark5]

Ok Ill get the cheap one at Home Depot. They don't have the bullet connectors though. Is there anywhere I can get them besides online.

See DrkAngel's previous post at end of page 34 this thread.

 

[latecurtis]

Ok. I will do that. I am really tempted to just rig something up that will work for two of the bricks in series and charge two at a time separately but I will look around first and try not to do that.

Thanks Latecurtis

 

[latecurtis]

What about that spark thing that happened. Would there be less of a chance for a big spark if I just hooked up two 6s batteries in series to the controller than trying to do all 4. Also it seems really simple to charge two at a time than all four. I know the range would be less but it seems really simple to just switch packs when I get where I am going before I head home. If I hook up a speedometer/odometer I could make sure I don't go over 3 miles with 2 - 6s bricks in series. Also I could get a smaller 300 watt power supply for portable charging with my 200 watt sky charger. I know Dan wants me to run all 4 bricks together at the same time and charge them all at once but it just seems so much more complicated and difficult. As well as really scary hooking up the parallel series harness to the controller.

 

[latecurtis]

All I know is if I get zapped one time with these Lipos I will never use them again. SLAs may be heavy but I would rather deal with heavy than electric shock.

 

[DrkAngel]

48V is 48V same from any type of battery!

 

[latecurtis]

I know that but when a parallel series connection is made the electrons try to equal out and causes a big spark where a simple series connection don't right.? it could have been the controller being turned on also. I will never do that again. Also I am confused about two ways to make the parallel series connection that was mentioned series first than parallel or the other way around. Also Dan said something about getting about 9 miles running both packs at the same time. That's 4.5 miles per pack. If I choose to run them separate I will only run each pack 3 miles before switching over to the second pack. That should not run the batteries too low. Also charging two batteries at a time is simpler and I already have 2 Y balance plugs and wont need to use the parallel board which gave me the reverse polarity reading. The Hobby store is all the way in Albany. probably not open until Monday. This thing must be rolling by tomorrow. I need to be able to do something with what I have to work with now.

 

[DrkAngel]

Parallel connection is less than 1 Volt differential ... typically.
Usually, no noticeable spark!

 

[DrkAngel]

Parallel 1st!
Create 6s2p ... 2 of them.

no need to ever separate them.
Use and view each as a single 6s 10A battery

2x 22.2V charger

1x 22.2V charger

 

[latecurtis]

Ok DrkAngel I tried doing this hooking up to the charger and got reverse polarity and the big spark thing trying to hook up to the controller. I really dont like the way things turned out. Can we please go back to page 30. The top of the page. I will order that monday and want to make absolutley sure its hooked up correct the first time. I am way too scare3d of shock to do this any other way and if it were not possible to do it that way you would have not posted that. It is the only way I can do this. This way its always correct and no mistakes can happen when switching from run to charge. There can be no human error. Obviously i made some kind of error the first time I tried it. So please support my decision as I was right the first time about comming up with something idiot proof.

Sincerelly Latecurtis out.

 

[latecurtis]

I could use a direct link to order it and one of your professional diagrams to hook up to it. With that I can finally finish this.
If I need to I will order a replacment controoler. At least then it will be foolproof and a finished working e bike.

 

[mark5]

icecube57. I like the icecube57. videos. except for the Anderson connection. I don't like those. Bullet only. or something even bigger with less chance of shock.

See the harness pictures in this article link that I've reposted here a lot:

Icecube 57's Lipo battery harness review. 4 battery set. by Dogman
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=32096

You may not like them but I don't see why Anderson connectors should be any more unsafe than any other type. This harness is the same as you need to run Dan's lipos and probably wired the same as the one he sent you. The Anderson series discharge and parallel charge connector blocks let you switch from discharge to charge and back by only swapping one plug, not counting balancing. They fit together only one way when there's more than one, side by side. Can't be connected upside down. Less chance for error when disconnecting and reconnecting separate bullet plugs. It's a slick arrangement. Also been done before with SLA batteries here--another good article with excellent detailed pictures:

Parallel Charging Wire Harness w/Pics
http://www.modifiedelectricscooters.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=947

 

[latecurtis]

If I run the switch it wont matter what connections that are used. The charger will be hooked up to the switch when the switch is in the run posistion with the controller off. Then I simply switch to charge and operate the buttons on the charger.

When I want to run I simply hook up the controller when its in charge posistion flick the switch unhook the charger and turn on the controller. 0% chance of any shock. Im not doing this any other way. thanks Latecurtis

 

[DrkAngel]

Reverse polarity means you hooked positive to negative.
Battery Positive must be hooked to charger Positive - Negative to Negative

You can confirm Positive and Negative with your multimeter!

Confirm <26V and proper Pos & Neg before hooking into charger!
Confirm <52V and proper Pos & Neg before hooking to controller!

Use multimeter!
Add fuse!

 

[latecurtis]

It only has to be hooked to the switch one time. The controller will never need to be unhooked ever. The plugs comming from the switch will be hooked up for charging when the switch is in the run or controller posistion or in the off center posistion. I simply switch to the charge posistion plug the power supply in and operate the buttons on the charger. What could be more simple than that. I dont understand why it is neccessary to continually plug and unplug things when there is no need to. The only thing that I may need to plug or unplug is the balance plugs which have no current correct. i dont see why nobody thinks a switch is a good idea.

I need plug extenders anyway so I can use the lipo bag inside the box. So Before I plug the extensions into the bullet connectors comming out of the lipos I wire the other ends up to the switch. Then put the switch in the center or off posistion when plugging the extensions into the bullet plugs comming out of the Lipos. then I tuck everything into the Lipo bag and close and lock the box and call it a day. Should never have to open the box up again until its time to replace the Lipos. i dont see why this would not only work. But be 100% safer and eaiser. Its ether that or I am ordering 4 - 10 Ah SLAs. But I really dont want to do that. i wish i could get you guys to see this my way.. Thanks Latecurtis

 

[DrkAngel]

Before you go messing with complex multi-mode switches ... I think you better learn how to do a simple basic mode hookup.

KISS©®

 

[latecurtis]

page 30 under the switches you posted sat dec 13. lipo switch I posted. There was no switch in it but could you make one work for me DrkAngel. Doug will hook it up. He owes me for a tablet. I am only interested in the function of it not into hooking it up. Thats the reason I want the switch. Because Im scared of Lipo batteries and electric shock. Also why I got them inside of a metal box and in a Lipo bag. I dont like the fire idea either. I know most off my switch ideas did not work.
Thats why I am asking you to look at that and fix it to make it work. I will order a switch and Doug will hook it up for me and Mission accomplished. I know you can do it. That would help me a lot. Should be done by Tuesday of next week. Thanks. Sincerelly Latecurtis.

 

[latecurtis]

I know that if I had a 12s charger that a switch would be really simple. I would trade both my chargers for one if it would enable the use of a switch. i am not apologizing for being scared of electricity. most people I ever met are scared of something. However im a little embarassed being on this forum and also scared of electricity. i could never be an electrician and have never said I was not scared of electricity. I was always been honest about that I thought.

 

[DrkAngel]

Before you go messing with complex multi-mode switches ... I think you better learn how to do a simple basic mode hookup.

KISS©®

I've tried and tried to get you going as simply as possible.
Still failed.
I can't have any reasonable hope of being able to help you with something extremely more complex.

 

[latecurtis]

Somebody else will hook it up for me. I will just use it. I just need to know if it can be done with a 6s charger or will I need a 12s one to use a switch.

 

[latecurtis]

If I was not scared of electricity I would gladly do it your way. Or Sunders way ... I cant change that. However if somebody hooks a switch up for me than at least I can use the ebike. I really want to get it going as you say and I know others on this forum want me to succeed However it dont change the fact that I cant hook bullet plugs up myself. Im afraid of them. I am serious about this. I dont really like SLAs but dealing with 12 volts seems to be easier. and series circuits dont bother me much. I was really scared to hook up the power supply and charger. It took me about 2 weeks to plug that stuff in. Ive been hooking and unhooking chargers and desulfators up to the SLAs continually. I dont fear SLAs. I fear LIPO.
Never had LIFEPO4s but heard they are like SLA only lighter.

 

[latecurtis]

I know with a 12s charger a simple 3 way taggo switch would work. 2 wires going in and 4 wires going out two top and two bottom and center posistion being off. Very simple. I will look for a 12s charger if nobody can help me out here with the switch I need to use a 6s charger. I.A.S.A.T (Its as simple as that) I was just hoping someone would just post the switch I need or simply tell me what I am looking for does not exist. I would much rather not have to buy a 12s charger if I can get a switch to work with a 6s charger as I have two 6s chargers. Please let me know I am not you guys and cant do it the way you all want me to. Thanks Latecurtis.

 

[DrkAngel]

6s balance charger and 12s battery is to complex to switch.
Involves 4 power wires and 14 balance wires ... at minimum!.

 

[latecurtis]

balance wires I am not afraid of . I will do them twice if I need to when you tell me to. I only want to switch the power wires.