new eZip motor

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On the 20"er, I would have placed a motor on the rear brake location, looks like a MY1020 would fit perfectly.
Run into a fixed sprocket, (release throttle and let motor slow you down)
Add front brakes!
 
DrkAngel said:
On the 20"er, I would have placed a motor on the rear brake location, looks like a MY1020 would fit perfectly.
Run into a fixed sprocket, (release throttle and let motor slow you down)
Add front brakes!
$50 could get you a 350w MY1016z3 gear reduction motor for 20 mph use on level ground.
Pump it up to 36V = 525w for ~25mph, or regear for "legal" 20mph but extra umph for acceleration and hills

MY1016z3 might even fit inside rear triangle ... for a nifty little beast!
 
DrkAngel said:
MY1016z3 might even fit inside rear triangle ... for a nifty little beast!
Wrong sprocket ... sorry.

20incher.jpg
 
DrkAngel said:
DrkAngel said:
On the 20"er, I would have placed a motor on the rear brake location, looks like a MY1020 would fit perfectly.
Run into a fixed sprocket, (release throttle and let motor slow you down)
Add front brakes!
$50 could get you a 350w MY1016z3 gear reduction motor for 20 mph use on level ground.
Pump it up to 36V = 525w for ~25mph, or regear for "legal" 20mph but extra umph for acceleration and hills

MY1016z3 might even fit inside rear triangle ... for a nifty little beast!
Sizes approximated ...

Sprockets on opposite sides!
Just demonstrating positions.

MY1020 driving spoke mounted sprocket (common for gas bikes)

20 incher MY1020.jpg

MY1016z3 @36V driving 20T sprocket for 20mph

20 incher MY1016z3.jpg
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 8/9

I posted over to Dougs earlier. That will be my last post at his house. Me and Doug are Done. We are not friends anymore. I bought a Specialized bike frame for $10 the other day. It was a girls and I traded it plus an x box 360 I found on the sidewalk that was broke for a Kicker Solo Baric 15" speaker. Doug said it was 3,000W and put out 191db. Imagine that!

I knew it was not all that. I was born in 65 not yesterday. I tested it next door last night and it made a terrible cracking sound and it smelled burnt by one of the small ventillation panels around the magnet. I knew it was a voice coil. I was hoping it worked good so I could get $50 for it toward a new motor.That was the plan.

I took it over to Dougs and told him the voice coil was bad. He insisted that subwoffers dont have voice coils and that he was into competition car stereo for 12 years. The guy is full of shit! I know more about audio then he ever will. He is a loud mouth and an ideot. I left it there. I told him to sell it and we would split the money. When I got home Rickys friend next door wanted it.

I took the speaker back and sold it for $10 to the friend of Ricky next door that tested it. He said he might be able to get it fixed . Doug called me about a half hour later and said he had someone who would have paid $200 for it and told me never to stop by his house again and that I am an ideot. He said he called other people too and that I made him look stupid. Doug is nothing but a loudmouth punk. He yells at his 2 year old son and orders his kids mother around like a slave. She lives with him and his girlfriend and they all treat her like shit!

All I know is he better not talk shit to me or I will knock his head off. He is a real punk who screams at women and little kids. He dont physically abuse anyone as far as I know but he is a scumbag. I forgot more than he will ever know about speakers. Just because it has a big magnet dont mean anything!

Speakers with oversized magnets are usually very ineffiencent. The 18" subs I had the magnets were good sized but not huge.They were 200W rms. 96.7db 1W/1M and had a 16hz f3 (low frequencey cuttoff). They also had a VAS (amount of air moved in one minute)of 40 cubic feet. Even if that kicker was 3.000W which I doubt; the effeciency was most likley around 88db 1W/1M.

That means the kicker will require 2,048W to reach 121db where the 18" sub I had could reach 121db at 256W. I may not have a 160 IQ but am a lot smarter than some moron that thinks a voice coil is only for midrange and tweeters. Piezo electric tweeters dont even have voice coils. I was hooking up 15" woofers from radio shack when he was just a twinkle in his fathers eye. Doug is only 27 years old. He was only 7 years old my first year of college for electrical technology.

I was gifted with brains and brawn A lot of people have either one or the other. However god thru a nasty temper in also and I developed street smarts along the way. I swear if that skinny punk ever talks shit to my face he will be picking his teeth up off the ground. I have a lot of friends. I dont need that low life. Every time I go to his house I see roaches and bed bugs running around. I usually end up getting bit also. I got bit today posting. I wont miss that!

90% of residences are reported to have some kind of bug infestation in Schenectady NY. I heard. I had to go to the Home Depot and buy a bag of Diatomaceous Earth powder and spread it everywhere to get rid of them after Doug and his girlfriend came over last year. The stuff really works. It kills anything that crawls and is safe for humans and pets. I googled it. A lot cheaper than an exterminator. Around $8 for a four pound bag. I am just letting you all know in case anyone has a bug problem.

I am taking the 20" bike for a spin to red box to get a movie and drink some beer. I have to calm down as my blood pressure is probably sky high. I plan on hitting the gym a lot the rest of the month. I need a brake from working on bikes. The picture of me describes my feelings for Doug at this time. I really want to beat him up.
I'm not scared of any of his scrawney friends either. Its PC (punk city) over there. PC is a prison term for punks who cant handle it in population. And most of the punks who go to Dougs including Doug would not do well in prison population to say the least!

Sorry but I had to blow off a little steam. Most of my other real friends dont like Doug either. Eric knows Doug is a bullshitter and Flick the guy that gave me $50 for breaking the motor met Doug once and in about 1 minute got sick of Dougs mouth running and told Doug he was full of shit. That was last year.

It was about a mile one way to red box and the front motor was a little hot but not really hot when I got back. I rented INFINI, an outer space movie. It sucked! (inserted text) The SLAs held up well also. I only went about 8 to 10mph. The build is completed for now but I still dont trust it to go any further than I went tonight. It made some strange noises every once in awhile and some shaking. There still may have been damage to the front motor from when I ran it solo.

I have sucessfully accomplished the fork motor build and proven that two motors will work for one wheel sprocket. It can be done, however I am not sure how reliable it would be in the long haul. I could get more hardware at the Home Depot and reinstall the motors again but am sick of working on it. The sprockets are lined up much better than before. Almost perfect. I know when I get the MY1020 motor it will run much better.

I will get my friend Mike to work on the brakes and get them working better. I just want the brakes to work really good and most important be reliable. A total brake failure could spell disaster going down a hill. They work somewhat but dont look very reliable as the pictures tommorow will show. Doug hooked them up.Thats why.

I like you guys because most everybody on ES knows what they are talking about. There is very little BS on these forums. Only once in awhile someone posts something that is out there. I am guility of it myself with that liquid cooled 2+ million watt motor. I was not serious about it though.. like I was when I insisted on that stupid LIPO switch awhile back. It still sits in my closet.

My current LIPO set up with the ice cube trays and the cash box does work very well now and is proven. It would never have happened without this forum. You guys kept telling me what would not work until I finally came up with something that does work. proving my point.There are intellegent people here to communicate with.

Of all my friends here in Schenectady I am the smartest. I thank you guys for teaching me about e bikes. I agree that I am a rebel and am headstrong. And sometimes I have a bad attitude. It is all part of being human. I will take the advice you guys told me about brakes. I just dont know if front brakes are even possible with all thats going on up there.

Let me know if anyone comes up with any ideas. I will take some close up pictures tommorow in the daylight and post a video of the final test run. I am looking for some feedback on how I can mount front brakes behind the forks. Also better more reliable brakes in the back. If for some reason I dont post for awhile it means I went to jail for beating up a punk. Its all good.
Thanks.
LC out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 8/10 - 8/11

I ran the Schwinn and the Lipo packs today. I had to go to the doctor and pick up a prescription. They ran flawlessly as usual. I talked to Mike along the way. He is going to help me out with the brakes on the Diamond Back. He doesn’t really like Doug either. His friend can’t stand Doug.

My friend Flick and I watched Dungeons and Dragons the movie a while ago. Our favorite expression of all was in the movie and explains Doug perfectly. "Sometimes it is better to keep your mouth shut and let everyone think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt"

I saw DAs posts today. I agree a motor would fit on the back perfectly however I would need a hub that has threads for a freewheel on both sides. The opposite side of the pedal sprocket would need to be left threaded. I still want to be able to pedal when I see a cop.

I would rather put the 1,000W MY1020 motor on the front and lose the two little motors. I could gear it for 29mph with a 13 tooth motor sprocket and get good reliable brakes for the front and the back.

I could get A 60V controller and a second motor on the back to get it rolling about 40mph, maybe even a little more. However I am not going to do it. It would cost way too much money for an extra 10 or 12mph. I can live with a 29mph 20" bike. I don’t need it to go any faster.

The Currie however is a different story. That will be getting a 60V controller and that 1,500W 48V brushless motor and three 6s Lipos in series for 66.6V. It should go at least 37mph. I may get six 5000mah Lipos for parallel series like the ones I have and set up another cash box unless the 16000mah bricks come down to around $100.

I hate it that I have to wait until next month to get a 1,000W motor. It is the way it is though when you live way below the poverty level. At least I got it running this month even if it's not perfect. I hope to get the brakes done before I get the new motor. At least it runs and I don’t have to push it to Mikes to get the brakes worked on.

Also I got a decent front wheel now for the 80 tooth sprocket. I paid way too much for it though. I paid Doug $30 for two wheels. A front and a rear. He would not just sell me a rear wheel. If I got two good rear wheels it would have been a good deal but look at who I was dealing with.

Before I forget I got the 24V throttle in the mail today. I also still have the original 24V charger that came with the Currie and two 24V controllers that were hooked up to the 24V motors. If I get a 350 or 450W 24V motor I could build a decent 15mph bike and sell it for a modest profit. People ask me almost every time I ride either of my e bikes if I want to sell it or ask me how to build one.

When people ask me I think to myself what DA would tell them. A hub motor kit. I tell them "look for hub motors. A magic pie or something cheaper. At least 36 or 48V. It is easy to install and works good. They also sell geared hub motors." I realize that most people are not willing to put the time and money that I do on special radical custom non hub builds. It is not for everybody.

When or if I ever get my SSI I would have the money to move out of Schenectady. One of the reasons would be to open up a small bike shop where we (at least one other ES member and myself) could fix and sell custom e bikes.

We could do regular bikes also and some electric scooters and kids razor type scooters. Maybe even rebuild DC motors if I can learn how. A garage to do electric conversions on cars and trucks would be the ultimate goal about 5 or 10 years later. I am seeking ES members who are interested in changing the world for the better. Those who have a love for building electric vehicles of any type.

There should be a green party candidate for the presidential election in 2016. There is a lot of work to be done! We can bring unemployment way down. Thousands of acers of land on the west coast burns every year in wildfires. Stop building oil pipelines and build water pipelines right thru the heart of those lands.

Maybe even man made rivers. Bring the water to where it needed and stop wasting money drilling oil and natural gas. It stinks and is stupid. Even deserts could be utilized and large solar powered greenhouses could grow millions of tons of food with enough railroads and water pipelines. Giant windmills could also generate vast amounts of power.

Underground tunnels, caves and possible rivers could be excavated and cool air from below could be pumped up and circulated through the greenhouses for cooling. It could become a national project which would employ millions of people and boost international trade as well as feeding the hungry. Farms in other parts of the country could raise more livestock and less vegetables as there would be more room for grazing. There are so many possibilities. Nobody should go hungry or be out of work.

Oil companies are lazy. They could continue getting richer by doing other things besides drilling oil. If a solar panel was created for every gallon of oil drilled imagine the possibilities! It takes more than one person to change the world. Fossil fuels need to become part of our history, not part of our future. Nice slogan. Stand up for green energy! Thanks.

LC out.
 
LateCurtis for President?
Can't be much worse than what we have or what were gonna get!?

LC I still wish you would do as DA said, Put/add 40lbs of lead or SALs on the Diamondback and ride down a big hill to feel what 25mph is gonna be on that 20" toy!

I like speed too but not on something that normally goes maybe 10!
This not to tease or harass you, it's so you see/feel what it really is on a small bike.

I have three 26" MTB that will all do at least 30+. I feel safest on only one of them. They all have full suspension with GOOD hydraulic disc brakes. SO you really need to see what's like before you waste the little bit of money you have, on a death trap.

we knew the video was a fake/joke and a test to see if we caught it and we did.
We don't want to see a real one of the same thing. Some here don't care or even read this thread after the first 50 or 60 pages since it has been all about nonsense, something they could care less. Some read this to try and help or learn. Learn what to do or what not to do. I would say most posts have been to try and help you some to laugh some hoping to not hear from you again. Please read this and think about what you are saying and what about. I think you will get more help with less BS.
I read this hoping you get the help you need and to laugh at your jokes?
Jokes you post are not taken by all the same way. Few here get them but I think most take them the wrong way.

Dan
 
DrkAngel said:
DrkAngel said:
DrkAngel said:
On the 20"er, I would have placed a motor on the rear brake location, looks like a MY1020 would fit perfectly.
Run into a fixed sprocket, (release throttle and let motor slow you down)
Add front brakes!
$50 could get you a 350w MY1016z3 gear reduction motor for 20 mph use on level ground.
Pump it up to 36V = 525w for ~25mph, or regear for "legal" 20mph but extra umph for acceleration and hills

MY1016z3 might even fit inside rear triangle ... for a nifty little beast!
Sizes approximated ...

Sprockets on opposite sides!
Just demonstrating positions.

MY1020 driving spoke mounted sprocket (common for gas bikes)

View attachment 1

MY1016z3 @36V driving 20T sprocket for 20mph

L/R freewheel hub not needed or recommended !
 
I'm a Noob and I Wanna Go 50MPH

"Summary:

"What's the point of going fast enough to keep up with traffic to stay safe from traffic, if the vehicle itself is so potentially dangerous or failure prone at those speeds as to pose an even greater risk?"

Secondary Summary: "Sure, you could do it safely, but to build it with bicycle components that would do it, it'd probably cost as much or more as buying a motorcycle. Or you could build motorcycle components onto your bicycle, but then it gets so big and heavy that you might as well have started with one anyway."


I do understand about conditions there; here there are a number of places where it is simply unsafe to ride a bike, even though there is actually a bike lane on the road--and other places there's no way thru an area except on such an unsafe road, no shoulders, no sidewalk, no lane, and some parts of it only a single lane for 45MPH speed limit traffic that actually goes at least 60MPH.

I ride on some of those, only when I must, not by choice, but because there's no other path to get me where I have to go...but I have to do it at 20MPH and hope they don't mow me down, because if they kill me I don't have to worry about anything anymore--but if I get stopped for going faster than 20MPH it's probably more than $1000 in tickets.

For me, that's more than a month's pay. I live so close to the edge as it is that I'd be out on the street unless the landlord was really nice and let me just skip a couple month's rent, or basically always be behind by a couple of months, and not charge me late fees.

So I avoid such areas when I can. Sometimes it's not possible.


BUT: If I wanted to go fast enough to be safe, I wouldn't be doing it with cheap bike parts like I do now--they arent' sufficient.

Bicycle tires aren't' going to last at those speeds, plus if you think a flat is bad at 20MPH, try a blowout at 50 on a bicycle tire. At least if you use DOT rated motorcycle tires the sidewalls are thick enough to not just stick your rim on the asphalt and skid you into traffic or a house. Maybe there's bicycle tires that can do that, too...but I doubt they're reasonably priced.


Wheels, unless you get higher-end ones, probably quite expensive, aren't going to last under those conditions either. I can't imagine a department-store bike has wheels that could handle even a minor pothole at those speeds without turning into a pretzel, leaving you as strawberry jam under someone's wheels. I've had what seemed like pretty good wheels until at 15-20MPH I hit a bad pothole and it broke a bunch of spokes, pulled them out of the rim, or just dented the rim enough to be unrideably flat. None of them were high-end wheels, so you might get wheels you that would survive if you have the money...but you could buy used motorcycle wheels for cheaper. Even moped wheels would be better, most likely.


Brakes for department store bicycles generally aren't going to be designed for that kind of use, so stopping more than a few times (if any) with them is probably gonna be tough. And even if they are good enough to lockup the wheel, well, you still only have a (cheap) bicycle tire's tiny contact patch to get friction from on the road surface.... Maybe they'll modulate well enough to allow you to slow down without locking up, but I wouldn't' have any faith in that, based on my experiences with heavy bikes at lower speeds (20MPH or so), which is probably not even enough kinetic energy to match a lighter bike slowing from 50MPH.


The frame might be OK, since they often make them really heavy out of softer steel thicker tubing, should even give a little "suspension", but really I'd call it "frame flex" which makes it harder to control at higher speeds on bad roads.


Then there's suspension....the faster you hit a bump or a pothole, the more energy there is in the impact--and the better your suspension has to be to maintain control of the vehicle under that impact, especially on a lighter two-wheeled vehicle that is more easily deflected from it's path by the impact than a heavier one. Starts to get pretty expensive quick for bicycle suspensions that can deal with this...


If I was going to go that fast, I'd build a motorcycle, or what amounts to one, solely for the safety points.


I've only touched on the legal ramifications, based on some AZ police reactions to various assisted bicycles going even ONE MPH over the <20MPH limit imposed on them here. It doesn't' even begin to talk about what happens when a collision occurs because of something that fails at those high speeds, and someone gets killed (rider or passenger, or someone in another vehicle (unlikely unless it's another bike), or a pedestrian hit because the tire blew out or wheel collapsed on a pothole, and bike and rider were flung onto the sidewalk.... If that goes public and all the details start working their way up the chain, how long before public outcry or political stupidity causes ebikes to be either banned or more likely limited into uselessness? Would force those of us that require more than such limits into becoming outlaws ourselves....


Anyway, there's an hour's worth of half-asleep rambling on the subject, with no objective facts (well, maybe one or two somewhere).

I also added this to the wiki itself, for those unwilling to read the linked stuff that's been discussed gone before, in far more detail than I went into, with pros and cons of each thing, opinions and facts from a lot of various members with varying experiences. Mostly because I didn't' want to have spent the hour or so I spent typing it up with only one person's thread "benefiting" from it. No one will have to search for it--they can read it whenever someone links them to the wiki about it. ;)" ... fixed spelling!
 
DrkAngel said:
I'm a Noob and I Wanna Go 50MPH

Summary:

"What's the point of going fast enough to keep up with traffic to stay safe from traffic, if the vehicle itself is so potentially dangerous or failure prone at those speeds as to pose an even greater risk?"

Secondary Summary: "Sure, you could do it safely, but to build it with bicycle components taht would do it, it'd probably cost as much or more as buying a motorcycle. Or you could build motorcycle components onto your bicycle, but then it gets so big and heavy that you might as well ahve started with one anyway."


I do understand about conditions there; here there are a number of places where it is simply unsafe to ride a bike, even though there is actually a bike lane on the road--and other places there's no way thru an area except on such an unsafe road, no shoulders, no sidewalk, no lane, and some parts of it only a single lane for 45MPH speed limit traffic that actually goes at least 60MPH.

I ride on some of those, only when I must, not by choice, but because there's no other path to get me where I have to go...but I have to do it at 20MPH and hope they don't mow me down, because if they kill me I don't have to worry about anything anymore--but if I get stopped for going faster than 20MPH it's probably more than $1000 in tickets.

For me, that's more than a month's pay. I live so close to the edge as it is that I'd be out on the street unless the landlord was really nice and let me just skip a couple month's rent, or basically always be behind by a couple of months, and not charge me late fees.

So I avoid such areas when I can. Sometimes it's not possible.


BUT: If I wanted to go fast enough to be safe, I wouldn't be doing it with cheap bike parts like I do now--they arent' sufficient.

Bicycle tires arent' going to last at those speeds, plus if you think a flat is bad at 20MPH, try a blowout at 50 on a bicycle tire. At least if you use DOT rated motorcycle tires the sidewalls are thick enough to not just stick your rim on the asphalt and skid you into traffic or a house. Maybe there's bicycle tires that cna do that, too...but I doubt they're reasonably priced.


Wheels, unless you get higher-end ones, probably quite expensive, aren't going to last under those conditons either. I can't imagine a department-store bike has wheels that could handle even a minor pothole at those speeds without turning into a pretzel, leaving you as strawberry jam under someone's wheels. I've had what seemed like pretty good wheels until at 15-20MPH I hit a bad pothole and it broke a bunch of spokes, pulled them out of the rim, or just dented the rim enough to be unrideably flat. None of them were high-end wheels, so you might get wheels you that would survive if you ahve the money...but you could buy used motorcycle wheels for cheaper. Even moped wheels would be better, most likely.


Brakes for department store bicycles generally aren't going to be designed for that kind of use, so stopping more than a few times (if any) with them is probably gonna be tough. And even if they are good enough to lockup the wheel, well, you still only have a (cheap) bicycle tire's tiny contact patch to get friction from on the road surface.... Maybe they'll modulate well enough to allow you to slow down without locking up, but I wouldnt' have any faith in that, based on my experiences with heavy bikes at lower speeds (20MPH or so), which is probably not even enough kinetic energy to match a lighter bike slowing from 50MPH.


The frame might be ok, since they often make them really heavy out of softer steel thicker tubing, should even give a little "suspension", but really I'd call it "frame flex" which makes it harder to control at higher speeds on bad roads.


Tehn there's suspension....the faster you hit a bump or a pothole, the more energy there is in the impact--and the better your suspension has to be to maintain control of the vehicle under that impact, especially on a lighter two-wheeled vehicle that is more easily deflected from it's path by the impact than a heavier one. Starts to get pretty expensive quick for bicycle suspensions that can deal with this...


If I was going to go that fast, I'd build a motorcycle, or what amounts to one, solely for the safety points.


I've only touched on the legal ramifications, based on some AZ police reactions to various assisted bicycles going even ONE MPH over the <20MPH limit imposed on them here. It doesnt' even begin to talk about what happens when a collision occurs because of something that fails at those high speeds, and someone gets killed (rider or passenger, or someone in anohter vehicle (unlikely unless it's another bike), or a pedestrian hit because the tire blew out or wheel collapsed on a pothole, and bike and rider were flung onto the sidewalk.... If that goes public and all the details start workign their way up the chain, how long before public outcry or political stupidity causes ebikes to be either banned or more likely limited into uselessness? Would force those of us that require more than such limits into becoming outlaws ourselves....


Anyway, there's an hour's worth of half-asleep rambling on the subject, with no objective facts (well, maybe one or two somewhere).

I also added this to the wiki itself, for those unwilling to read the linked stuff that's been discussed gone before, in far more detail than I went into, with pros and cons of each thing, opinions and facts from a lot of various members with varying experiences. Mostly because I didnt' want to have spent the hour or so I spent typing it up with only one person's thread "benefitting" from it. No one will have to search for it--they can read it whenever someone links them to the wiki about it. ;)

BRAVO DA!!!

That's what I said. Thank you for putting it in a much better perspective.
Dan
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000W-48V-electric-motor-w-Base-f-scooter-bike-go-kart-minibike-MY1020-/151566070059?hash=item234a0ab12b

I just ordered the motor. Before I read you guys posts.

It will be in by the 19th. It will only go 18mph with the 11 tooth sprocket and 80 tooth wheel sprocket. It wont go 29mph until I get a 48V controller and 13 tooth motor sprocket next month. By that time I will have front and back brakes.

I understand what you are telling me. Good brakes are very important but what is better than brakes is good common sense. I know it is difficult to believe, but I ride more carefully than you would expect. I don't hit pot holes. I avoid them. I also avoid any hills unless my brakes are working perfectly. I have been riding bikes over 35 years in all types of conditions and mostly with defective brakes. It takes a really dumb person and careless person to run over a pedestrian. I have never hit anyone ever.

I came downtown on the Schwinn even though I got the 20" bike running good. The Schwinn has better brakes and they are all working. I only use the 20" bike on flat ground and less than 10mph. I would post a video coming downtown that shows my route and how I ride to avoid pot holes and deal with people and traffic. However the video would be too long and would not post. I could attempt to compress it but the quality would be terrible. Nothing over 2 megabyte will post.

I guess you will have to take my word for it that I do ride carefully. Also 29mph will be the absolute top speed after I get the 48V controller. It may even be closer to 27mph as I will be running 44.4V not 48V. As far as 50mph I don't know what you are saying. The Currie may get up to 40mph when I get that 1,500W brushless motor and run it at 60V and 1875W.

As far as 50mph I don't see it any time soon. the Schwinn with 44.4V can easily do about 27mph right now but I have only done it a few times on very smooth roads in the daytime on routs with little traffic. I am lucky if I go much over 10mph most of the time and even much slower on roads that are really bad. I care about the Schwinn and want it to last awhile. I don't wish to damage my front wheel with the hub motor. thanks.

LC out.
 
That's good to read that you aren't totally insane!

Do you have a speedo yet? If I had thought about it I could of sent two of them before I tossed then out. They were cheap like 3 to 5 bucs and I never used them. Buy one, you are on ebay looking for horses you don't need.

If and when you become rich and famous, first get a good insurance policy made out to ES :mrgreen: Then you can buy what ever motor you want. Oh yeah don't forget the brakes.

Dan
 
I probably would not have ordered that new motor but I know the two little motors wont make it up even a small hill. The 1,000W motor on the Currie was great going up hills. Small motors just don't have the torque. I will be very happy when it comes in and will post a video when I get it going. I have almost a week to figure out how to hook up front brakes. Thanks.

LC out.
 
latecurtis said:
As far as 50mph I don't know what you are saying.
LC out.
You keep saying you want to go 50mph!
Bicycle components are not designed for, or safely capable of, that kind of speed-abuse!

Don't remember wanting to go 50mph?
latecurtis said:
I would love to see 50mph. Thanks. LC. out.
latecurtis said:
On the back will be the next model up Golden motor from the one I posted. 3 kilowatts. 50mph. LOL.

Thanks. LC. out.
latecurtis said:
50mph would be ideal. :twisted:
latecurtis said:
Now that I am turning 50 I would like to see how close I can get to 50mph on an e bike this year.
latecurtis said:
I typed in 50mph e bike motors in google and it popped up. It looks like I may be able to out run a cop after all sometime in the future. :twisted:
latecurtis said:
I am looking hard at an Astro motors with gear reduction for the rear drive.. 50mph is minimum. I am shooting for 70mph though.
latecurtis said:
Looks like I need a bigger motor. Forget 45mph. I am going to put a unite 800 or 1,000W motor on the back first. Then when I get my brother in law (the welder) to extend the forks That hobby kink motor should start kicking in at about 25 to 30mph and get me up to 50mph :twisted: :D

LC out.
latecurtis said:
I see 50mph in my future. I will run the SLAs for the 1,000W motor and the Lipos for the 81mm motor. It will be incredible.
latecurtis said:
Re: new eZip motor
I used the sprocket calculator and set the maximum speed for 70mph to calculate a sprocket to do 50mph for that 81mm motor.
latecurtis said:
Anyway there is still hope for 50mph or close to it by the end of the summer.
latecurtis said:
I am still looking for a 50mph+ motor.
latecurtis said:
50mph? 60mph? or faster :twisted:
latecurtis said:
50mph???? :twisted: :lol:
latecurtis said:
I might end up getting the brushless one first and then get this motor later for 50mph.
latecurtis said:
I was thinking about a pair of 3 killowatt Hobby king or Ampflow motors for 50mph.
latecurtis said:
Once it is rolling with back brakes I may replace the motors a few months down the road with a pair of 36V Hobby King or Ampflow motors for 50mph.
latecurtis said:
The Diamond Back will be upgraded to 40mph and the Currie at least 50mph
 
latecurtis said:
I probably would not have ordered that new motor but I know the two little motors wont make it up even a small hill. The 1,000W motor on the Currie was great going up hills. Small motors just don't have the torque. I will be very happy when it comes in and will post a video when I get it going. LC out.
"Small motors just don't have the torque" for going up hills at 10mph ... because you geared them for 40mph(?)
Gearing for hills might supply 400% the hill climbing torque!!!

Similar to trying to drive a car up a hill in 4th gear or dropping it down into 1st
 
latecurtis said:
... but what is better than brakes is good common sense. ... I have been riding bikes over 35 years in all types of conditions and mostly with defective brakes. It takes a really dumb person and careless person to run over a pedestrian. LC out.
"Common sense" dictates that good brakes are of ultimate importance!
"takes a really dumb person and careless person", (possibly criminal), to motorize their bike to double-triple + its designed speed and ride around without proper brakes!!!
 
DrkAngel said:
latecurtis said:
I probably would not have ordered that new motor but I know the two little motors wont make it up even a small hill. The 1,000W motor on the Currie was great going up hills. Small motors just don't have the torque. I will be very happy when it comes in and will post a video when I get it going. LC out.
"Small motors just don't have the torque" for going up hills at 10mph ... because you geared them for 40mph(?)
Gearing for hills might supply 400% the hill climbing torque!!!

Similar to trying to drive a car up a hill in 4th gear or dropping it down into 1st
The Unite motors,that I've tested, seem to be "timed" with a progressive torque profile that is optimized for cruising speed.
Acceleration-torque improves until approximately 60% of no load speed.
With a top cruising speed of 20mph, acceleration is most impressive at ~15-16mph.

XYD-16 @24V 11-20T gearing
No load speed 25mph
Cruising speed 20mph
Acceleration + 15mph

MY1018z motor = very comparable in performance

Motor seems optimized for cruising with mild to modest hills but ... pedal assisting being recommended getting up to speed and for maintaining efficient motor speed on hills.

MY1016 scooter motors are designed for cruising at ~12mph after kick starting to near that speed.
 
Very good DA. That must of taken a long time to get all those clips and post them.
We have told him to put the 40 lbs on board and ride down a steep hill.
Just the sled hill at the park here is good for almost 30mph. I sure wouldn't want to try it on a baby size bike! Especially with shitty brakes.

I read this thread when ever it appears and am sorry to say that it has lost most readers interest and support. I believe most responses are not in HIS best interest from other members as they are tired of it. I know he is not a total idiot as he comes on to be just wants to do what others have done, with much more money with proper assemblies.
I would like to go 60mph on a bike too but common sense tells me NFW.
First I have a dog that I love and for no way would I want her to be alone. Second I have a family that mean the world to me. I guess that if you have no one that you care about or care about you, it makes you feel not needed or wanted.
Yes I love my dog but I put her firet as a JOKE, just to see if LC reads this.
LC if you read DA's post and mine you might get the meaning of these posts!!!!

Dan
 
Numbers of views are still good.
Few actually trying to help ...
I think most are just watching for the inevitable train wreck?
 
View is all he is getting. They read it and laugh.
I really wish he could ride a real well built Ebike with power so he knows what he is doing is a waste of time and ?money?
His Schwinn might be ok but I don't think he knows how fast it goes or doesn't. All he needs is to ride I down a steep hill and he might learn.
Learn? I don't know what but he might know 20" isn't some thing he should be trying.

Carrying up the stairs might be easier but why not talk to his friend to keep it in his garage. I have a extra Ebike in my garage and I don't charge my FRIEND storage. He has his cash/ice cube box that he can carry alone to charge it.

Shit, why am I even trying to help? It's just a pastime for me now, I guess

Dan
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 8/14 Special post. Secret talent.

I take back what I said earlier about the only reason I ordered the 48V MY1020 motor was because of hills. After I returned home with the Schwinn I put that away and took the 20" bike to CVS which is where I rented the shitty movie the other day. I needed to get beer and it is cheap there.

The bike made it there and back with no problem. Over 4 miles so far without the chain popping off however it still makes strange noises. I know it won’t hold up in the long run. I am glad that I have a working basket to haul things though. That is what I will use to pick up the new motor at USPS when it comes.

They try to deliver it but anything big usually ends up there as I don’t hear the door downstairs.. It is a little over a mile from here. The Schwinn only has the back basket and that is where the Lipos are. It is no good for hauling things and I don’t want a front basket on it. It would make it look really stupid and may compromise the brake or gear cables.

Mike is about my age and his brother Ed is about 55 I think and very good mechanically. We will figure it out. I am not dealing with young punks anymore. Brakes are going to happen. I am in good hands with them.

I already know I need good brakes. We have established that. What I need is good links for quality brake parts which will install behind the forks and possibly a disk set up in the back. If not disk then very reliable brakes. Brakes that don’t constantly need adjusting and that will hold up in extreme situations and not fail miserably like the ones I got now.

I would rather have strong durable rear brakes that will slow the bike down all the way down a steep hill than cheap brakes on the front and rear that will snap a cable or malfunction half way down the hill. As far as on the flat I tend to slow down anyway way before I come to an intersection where a car may pull out or when people are crossing the road.

I only use full throttle when I can see a long way ahead and there are no threats. Also only on very smooth roads. I also travel the same routes sometimes several times a week so I kind of know what to expect. That is why I don’t need a Lipo alarm.

I went to the doctors two days ago about three miles round trip after a LILO charge and they were all 3.86 to 3.88V. I went downtown today which is about 2.6 miles round trip and now they are all 3.78 to 3.80V. I will charge them back to 4.1V before running them again. I could do a third trip but if I went some extra distance for some reason could run the risk of running them low and I want them to last a very long time.

I prefer the left side of the road sometimes because cars cant sneak up behind me. I can turn my head and see them coming. Also I can see cars ahead way before they get to me. What I worry about the most is parked cars pulling out in front of me. On the left side they can see me coming or I can see them behind the wheel. on the right side I may be in their blind spot or they may be looking ahead.

I really hate cars. They are very smelly with their exhaust fumes and some are very noisy. I don’t mind the bumping systems as I rode around bumping gangster shit like WUTang, Big E small and Tupac for most of the 90s. I had a 82 Caddy with two 18" subs in isobaric push pull in my trunk. It’s the loud exhaust I don’t like. that and burning the tires for no reason. I watched most of the Fast and Furious movies but If you are not racing there is no sense in it.

Sometimes I think people get their license out of a box of cracker jacks. Then you got other assholes that yell out the window. Some guy in a truck yelled "Get off the fuckin road" going up a hill a few weeks ago. He did not realize I had a motor and was running Lipo as I caught up to him when he stopped for a red light on the flat about five minutes later. I told him to talk his shit now and I had the chain and padlock in my hand.

He did not look at me but I think the pussy called the cops because one was waiting about a half a mile up the road. I saw him way ahead and pedaled going by him. He followed me a good half a mile and kept going straight when I turned onto the bridge. I am sick of cars and especially people in them. If I do get hit I better be dead because if I survive they won’t for long!

I might start carrying rocks and bricks in my front basket. When someone really pisses me off they better hope they don’t have to stop for a red light and I catch up to them. It may not end well to say the least. You all might wanna worry about shit like that instead of brakes. One of these wise asses are goanna get badly hurt one of these days. .

They seem to think I am some old smelly fart sniffer riding around on a bike and I won’t do anything. I used to carry a machete with me on my bike a few years back. I can see it on the news now. Road Rage ends with brutal beheading. LOL. It is a miracle every day I don’t go back to state prison. A walkin and rollin time bomb I am. Straight up gangster! Don’t think so, check out my ryme. I can write a ryme on a dime any time cause im fine. Cross me and your mine.

Better go back to labor ready. Your boys heads behind the Getty. I lay victims down like Freddy. I aim my gun true and steady. On the cellblock they called you Betty. Flipped you over in a teddy. I’ll turn your ass into spaghetti. Got more talent than Tom Petty.

Before I forget I will need a variable 36 to 48V brushed controller to go with the new motor as the three SLAs are still in decent shape. I desulfate them about every time I charge them. I think they got a few more months left in them. Please post when you can. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-36V-500W-48V-60V-1000W-Motor-Brush-Controller-for-E-Bike-Bicycle-Scooter-/121724166899?hash=item1c575362f3&vxp=mtr

That should work. Hopefully I can find it cheaper. I got to check for the throttle hook up though. Out of time here at the library for today. I'll catch you guys tomorrow. Thanks.

LC. out
 
Looks like a 3 wire but not sure. if you get a chance to check it out please let me know. Thanks.
 
Most throttles are 3 wire and the 4th is for the idiot fuel guage lights.

As for shitty brakes, most are due to poor install and adjustments. cables don't just snap. I haven't had that problem at all, OH I forgot I don't have any brake cables :mrgreen:
You don't need disc brakes on the rear if you have frt brakes. You don't need disc brakes at all if the rim brakes are adjusted right.

YOU SAID YOU WOULD LIKE THE 16000MAH lIpO IF THEY WERE CHEAP
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=66487 $119.86 I wish they were as cheap as the hardpacks a few weeks ago, like same as these with only the last 4 digits.
I don't think they will get cheaper if not more later.

Why don't you put a nice basket on the front of the Schwinn? If you do it like the others that worked. Why not? Sure hides or distracts what is on the frt.

You might consider what you are saying in your posts. You might get it locked!!!

Dan
 
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