new eZip motor

[Skalabala]

Why do you want to solder outside?

 

[DrkAngel]

Apparently he holds his head over soldered item, breaths the fumes and gets in his eyes.
I recommended small fan or holding head to side of project rather than above ... but ... ?

 

[DAND214]

Yes again DA.
As they say.
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink it.

LC, be aware that your plugs are battery ends. So when you plug them together they will be reversed color wise. Red is positive off the battery and it will be black out when you plug it in to the battery. Can be very confusing, that is why I built my own connectors when I used them. I put black marker on the plugs to mark negative even tho they were red wire, if I didn't make the plugs myself.

Take two and plug them together, you will see what I am talking about.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink it.

I put black marker on the plugs to mark negative even tho they were red wire, if I didn't make the plugs myself.

I am glad you posted that. Black electrical tape will work even better. I will do it by the window if it wont work outside. I want to grind that 9T motor sprocket down today maybe so am running the cord outside anyway. I do understand what you are saying as 50 feet of wire will make a difference. There is a formula that has pie in it to figure out the actual resistance. I had to learn it in college. Circuits 1 and 2 which I passed but remember very little as it was 20 years ago. Thanks for posting. I will let you know how I made out.

Thanks. LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

a formula that has pie in it

Now I'm hungry :lol: :lol:

I put the marker on the plastic connector not the wire. That way I could lineup the connector and not worry about the wire color. It will work either way.

Dan

 

[Sunder]

I am glad you posted that. Black electrical tape will work even better. I will do it by the window if it wont work outside. I want to grind that 9T motor sprocket down today maybe so am running the cord outside anyway. I do understand what you are saying as 50 feet of wire will make a difference. There is a formula that has pie in it to figure out the actual resistance. I had to learn it in college. Circuits 1 and 2 which I passed but remember very little as it was 20 years ago. Thanks for posting. I will let you know how I made out.

Thanks. LC. out.

It's pretty simple

Vdrop = (length x current x conductor constant) / Area

Pi or "Pie" as you call it, would only come into it if you're figuring out the area of a circular cable.

The plugs that LC bought were gendered right? So there's no chance of plugging them in incorrectly, even if the wire colour is incorrect? So is tagging all that big an issue?

I've started a new build thread by the way. It's the one about a 29er. I want a more comfortable bike for longer rides. The fixed frame hybrid just isn't doing it for me anymore.

 

[latecurtis]

I did not get a chance to do anything productive with e bikes today. I did walk about three miles though altogether and recycled some beer cans. I have been thinking and basically if I want to live longer I must lose at least 40 pounds. I need to be closer to 200 than 250 pounds. Riding an e bike is no help attaining that goal. However it looks like the warm weather is here to stay so there is always tomorrow to work on the bikes and do some soldering. Thanks for posting guys.

LC. out.

 

[Skalabala]

The best thing you can ever do in your life is to get fit

 

[DrkAngel]

Try an eaBike!

Typically, a bad knee suffers from the stiff legged impact of walking.
The cyclic movement of gentle pedaling is usually therapeutic.

• 
  An eaBike (electric assist Bike) with seat at optimal pedaling height, allows:
• prolonged casual cruising
• double battery range
• much better battery life
• better motor life
• cardiovascular therapy
• therapeutic joint movement
• potential weight loss
• improved muscle tone and durability
• improved circulation (including brain)

I got my 1st eBike about .... 8 years ago.
I was in such poor health that I could not pedal a bike for more than a couple minutes.
With my eBike, I insured that I had a way home if too worn out to pedal.
I quickly realized that constant pedaling, with partial throttle, produced almost daily health improvement.
Within 2 years, I progressed from being unable to complete 1 dance at my nieces wedding to being capable of a 10 mile circuit of my typical trail at near 20mph ... on my pedal only bike!!!

 

[DAND214]

Try an eaBike!

Typically, a bad knee suffers from the stiff legged impact of walking.
The cyclic movement of gentle pedaling is usually therapeutic.

• 
  An eaBike (electric assist Bike) with seat at optimal pedaling height, allows:
• prolonged casual cruising
• double battery range
• much better battery life
• better motor life
• cardiovascular therapy
• therapeutic joint movement
• potential weight loss
• improved muscle tone and durability
• improved circulation (including brain)

I got my 1st eBike about .... 8 years ago.
I was in such poor health that I could not pedal a bike for more than a couple minutes.
With my eBike, I insured that I had a way home if too worn out to pedal.
I quickly realized that constant pedaling, with partial throttle, produced almost daily health improvement.
Within 2 years, I progressed from being unable to complete 1 dance at my nieces wedding to being capable of a 10 mile circuit of my typical trail at near 20mph ... on my pedal only bike!!!

YES, your are right again DA.
Wish more would realize that E BIKES are great for health, both body and mind.

Dan

 

[Sunder]

YES, your are right again DA.
Wish more would realize that E BIKES are great for health, both body and mind.

Dan

No, no, no, haven't you been listening? eBikes are simultaneously too fast and heavy for bike paths and shared paths - they're a danger and menace to normal cyclists and walkers, yet too slow to be on the road, holding up all those important people in cars.

We've had a few incidents causing road closures and normal commutes of 30 minutes going over 2 hours in the past week, and there have been a lot of suggestions from bikers and ebikers that cycling (whether assisted or not) is the way to go. You should see how fast those comments were shut down, with people insisting that we should be spending billions more on roads, because public transport doesn't work, and neither does cycling.

Such a circular argument - but the circle is so big that unless you can convince them of the whole thing, nobody can see the big picture.

 

[latecurtis]

Walking and bicycling are good exercises for bad knees because they aren't high-impact.

I looked it up on the google. This is one of the cases where we are both right DA. Anything high impact is bad. If the seat is high enough where I don't have to bend my right knee too much I can pedal some. I used to pedal the Manga also but had to walk up any hill even gradual inclines. The thing is walking in my case seems to produce less pain afterwards and I can burn more calories walking about three miles a day than pedaling three miles.

I was cutting one of the thick steel brackets about 4 or 5 PM today as I was going to mount the motor on the red bike and got totally bitched out by a lady downstairs. She said if it happens again she is calling the landlady. I don't need the hassle! She is not even the owner of the apartment. It might be her sister though. I am kind of sick of paying $550 every month to be told what to do.

It was raining out today so I could not run the extension cord to the back yard, and was getting dark when I got up. Also unless you own a fan that fits into the window perfectly blowing air out the wind outside will blow the fumes in your house. This apartment seriously cramps my style and Eric has had no interest in bikes since getting out of jail.

I really wish I would have moved when I got my money but was not sure where to go and simply hate moving. I just figured it out and in 20 years have moved 18 times not including rooms by the week and homeless shelters. I have lost everything I owned twice and stayed in five different shelters also for brief periods of time. I am going to be 51 and my ol lady is 73 years old and we have way too much stuff to move without a large U haul. I know I had the money to move but the problem is WHERE? I sure don't want to move somewhere just to find out a few months later it was another big mistake. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Living in apartments is hell. The last place I lived in was a mid to high end apartment going for $550 a WEEK. Or about $2400aud a month, maybe worth about $1800usd a month now, but at the time the AUD was at parity or above.

When we first moved in, I had to do some drilling to mount some shelves. This was 10am in the middle of the work day where most people were at work. Our welcome "You'd better stop that right now, or I'm gonna come up there and make you stop!". In the following years we got complaints that our door squeaked too much, our taps were too loud, our gutters were dropping mud on their (illegal) paving. Then there were the nasty notes that weren't to do with us "If you're not at the common washing machines when your clothes finish expect to find them on the floor", " Whoever it is, stop parking in the visitors spot" (guessing it was someone's boyfriend or girlfriend since they were only ever parked there on weekends), all manner of petty and trivial shit.

I'm in a house now. Its heaven by comparison. Can do whatever I like, no noise complaints, no sharing anything.

Even if you have to make some sacrifices, can i say that if you can afford a house, its worth every cent you pay extra.

 

[DrkAngel]

LC ... You seem to not be able to differentiate between pedaling a bike and pedal assisting an eBike.

I am recommending that you begin by mock pedaling.
Constantly turn the pedals while riding ... the equivalent of range of motion therapy.

100% pedal effort might be stressful, but 10-20% pedal effort should be therapeutic ...
I recommended ≤50% pedal effort = ≥50% motor applied.

The point is to reduce strain on your battery and motor while beginning therapy on your cardiovascular system ... and knee!
With the benefit of not attracting unwanted attention from those annoying fuzzballs

 

[latecurtis]

Thanks guys for posting. I will try to do more pedal assist. The ol lady really wants to get a house. She has been talking about it for years. The thing is section 8 wont pay for it. They told me they would only give us a voucher for a one bedroom apartment. I have been talking to the guy downtown. The center for disability services to see if he knows of any way to get section 8 to help us with a house. I am also looking into any other federally or state funded programs. I want to work on my bikes today. I will let you know if I made any progress. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Insanity revealed. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

I worked all day on the bikes. I ground down the 9 T for the over geared 24" bike and installed the motor back on the red bike. I used the J B weld to fit the motor sprockets together. I will check it in about three days.

I spent hours trying to get the motor sprocket to line up with the wheel sprocket on the red bike. At the end of about six hours of struggling with it I took it for a test ride and it is good for about 8 to 10 mph. I cant get the sprockets to line up as good as I did before. I am officially done with #25 chain and sprockets this time. When I had the #415 spoke sprocket on the front of the 20" bike it was good for at least 25 mph and full throttle with the 1,000 W motor.

Also I am not installing the 9 T on the 24" bike with the 1,000 W motor. I know that it is over-geared but I will live with it. The 9 T will go on the red 20" bike for the 500 W motor and will be geared for 22 mph if I get a 60 T spoke sprocket. I find it extremely difficult to believe that nobody makes a 9 T double D bore sprocket. Also I find it hard to believe that a 60 T spoke sprocket is as large as they make unless you spend about $70 or $80. I did find a company that does make them but the price is ridiculous.

Like I said before I don't want to hear how my bikes are over-geared and I don't want a gear reduction motor either. I will run the 9 T on the red bike and leave the 24" the way it is unless someone has a link for a larger spoke sprocket or a 9 T double D bore motor sprocket for a #415 chain.

Furthermore I don't see the mechanical advantage of expensive mid mount motors that have a lot of gears. Only for steep hills. The graph with the power to speed states 500 W = approx. 23 mph and 1,000 W = approx. 30 mph I think it was. With pedal assist the motor with a single gear should be able to keep up with a multi-geared set up on flat or close to flat ground. I don't see for example how a 500W motor could go 30mph without pedal assist and just switching lots of gears. Only advantage I see is up hills.

Also as far as complicated gear reduction units including the Jack-shaft and Planetary gear reduction units I do see why they are necessary for high rpm RC motors or Amp-flow motors but any other motor such as a Unite motor that runs at 3,000 rpm or less than 4,000 rpm if slightly overvolted should work perfect without expensive gear reduction by simply using a large spoke sprocket and a smaller motor sprocket such as a 9 T double D bore.

I will continue to search as eventually when I start running the 24" bike there will come a time when I will have to change the back tire and would like to be able to simply take off the 11 T and slide a 9 T onto it. There must be a machine shop somewhere that can custom make a motor sprocket for a #415 chain. I am not sure but I think the #410 sprockets can use the #415 chain.

The conversation I had with the guy who makes 75+ spoke sprockets from $75 up to $90 told me that the sprockets are for standard #410 bike chain and people use the #415 chain because it allows for a margin of error which means if the sprockets don't line up 100% perfect it will still work. Only if you tell them to make a spoke sprocket for #415 chain will they do so. Please let me know if that makes any sense to you guys.

From personal experience I have learned there is very little margin for error when using #25 chain. If it is not 100% lined up and very tight full throttle is impossible. Yes I can get it to run the bike but usually only about 5 or 10 mph at the most and most likly the chain will pop off going up a hill. The only exception was the Currie. I need to put the 80 T #25 sprocket back on the Currie and order another motor for that. I already have the chain.

I really would like to know where I can get the spoke sprockets I am seeking cheaper and who can custom grind double D bore 9 T motor sprockets. Both motor and spoke would be better if ground for #410 chain as the larger #415 chain would allow for that margin of error. I know that the 57 T spoke sprocket on the 20" wheel that is on the 24" Huffy was for #415 chain as #410 would not fit and I had to go about 5 miles to get #415 chain as it was the only bike shop around that had it.

I know I should have went with a geared hub motor for my second e bike and stopped with just two e bikes. I should also left the Currie alone when it was running perfect for about two years but I did not and ordered these two Unite motors and built two e bikes that are over geared with shitty brakes. it is too late now but if I can get the correct motor and wheel sprockets they will still work. Also I can fix the brakes so please help if anyone has a link for a 9 T motor sprocket or 65 T or 70 T spoke sprocket for #410 chain.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/80cc-Motor-bicycle-GAS-ENGINE-parts-60-teeth-flat-sprocket-only-no-mount-/191731104174

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181751577813?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Both ordered.

It has to be cheaper and easier to get a custom ground motor sprocket than a wheel or spoke sprocket.

http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_96&product_id=148

Is that what DA said would work better than the 9T Currie I ground down today.

It seriously troubles me that something so simple just does not exist for my motor shaft. It really makes no sense if you think about it. I know I have been down this same road a couple of times before. I know someone posted hell or insanity as repeating the same thing over repeatedly.

Oh Shit. There is a big fight outside. I got to get out of the room in case bullets start flying.

Thank god they are gone up the street. Sometimes I wish I lived where Sunder lives. All he has to worry about there is kangaroos. Here there is a shooting about once a week. Here there usually is a body and not a Kangaroos. I know what I want don't exist but keep hoping some new company will pop up that has it or someone knows something I don't and will share.

I did find that it was also posted here that #410 sprockets work with #415 chain. Also the motor sprocket will allow for some margin of error so even though I cant find a #410 spoke sprocket this will work. Now the only link I could use is for custom motor sprockets. Post one if you can otherwise I will order the 9 T #415 and grind it down and JB weld it to a #25 11T like I had to do today. I would rather not have to keep doing that though. I know I bought a #25 9 T awhile back and never used it. That will work for the next #415 9 tooth I guess if I have to keep using JB weld.

Thanks.

Sincerely LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

. 1. Get 9T #410 D sprocket (10mm hole).
#25 Dual D sprocket (10mm hole) - cut into square.
Place Dual D square on top and precisely mark.
Cut square hole.
Weld square into square hole.
Weld, not JB Weld?
Check with local machine shops for price-availability. or you use Dremel with cutting wheels and any garage for welding?

. 2. Get 9T #410 D sprocket (10mm hole).
Add weld to round side. - (JB Weld might survive?)
Scribe (mark) both flat sides to proper size - Single D flat side needs file or cut for fit!
file or Dremel both (flat) sides to proper

9T D sprocket (#410)

 

[Sunder]

Thank god they are gone up the street. Sometimes I wish I lived where Sunder lives. All he has to worry about there is kangaroos. Here there is a shooting about once a week. Here there usually is a body and not a Kangaroos.

Sincerely LC out.

Worry about kangaroos? We ride them to work like this:

In Sydney, we worry about Kangaroos about as much as the average New Yorker worries about be mauled by black bears riding the subway.

 

[latecurtis]

1. Get 9T #410 D sprocket (10mm hole).
#25 Dual D sprocket (10mm hole) - cut into square.
Place Dual D square on top and precisely mark.
Cut square hole.
Weld square into square hole.
Weld, not JB Weld?
Check with local machine shops for price-availability. or you use Dremel with cutting wheels and any garage for welding?

. 2. Get 9T #410 D sprocket (10mm hole).
Add weld to round side. - (JB Weld might survive?)
Scribe (mark) both flat sides to proper size - Single D flat side needs file or cut for fit!
file or Dremel both (flat) sides to proper

1. I agree real weld would work better than JB weld However am kind of lost when you said "cut into square and weld square into square hole" I am sure it would work as real weld is stronger than steel but just don't comprehend the concept. I would need to see a high definition video of it being done.

2. JB weld would not survive. Real weld maybe. My method worked before and I will be surprised if it don't work this time. There is quite a lot of JB weld between the sprockets and between each tooth as the picture shows. I can add a little more in two more days after that totally cures. I will also need a really small file to get the excess that flowed over onto the teeth of the nine tooth. The simple science behind my concept is a large area of contact.

I also agree that making friends with a local welder would be in my best interests. If there were a way to use real weld instead of JB my method would definitely last forever. The one I did before I only ran a couple of weeks I think but there is no evidence that it would ever fail either. Thanks Sunder and DA for posting. I need to do some soldering and get these batteries going awhile I am waiting on the spoke sprocket and parts to show up. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 7View attachment 5As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Soldering.


I guess there is no question that this soldering iron gets hot enough. I was really pissed when it melted the plug. I had no choice but to cut the plugs off the Lipo pack. I was not to nervous as I already watched a video two or three times showing it done. ALSO they Clearly said to cut one wire at a time. It is common sense but the guy in that video who shocked himself repeatedly would have cut both wires at once probably.

Not only did I cut one wire but I tucked the wire with the plug still attached into the Lipo bag so it would be out of the way and put a little piece of tape over the balance plug as I was soldering on a metal surface. I used the side panel of my desktop PC which I put on the top of a cardboard box With a fan in the window.

Unfortunately I wont be able to do the other pack tonight as I am out of shrink wrap. I get it at Advanced auto. I did not see it at Wall-Mart. The problem is due to the large size of my solder job Only the largest shrink tube will fit over it. It comes in a pack for $3 and change but with only one shrink tube large enough. I am sure the connections are solid as the iron on maximum melted the solder really good and I moved it back and forth over the wires which were twisted or wrapped together. The pictures show that the wires are covered with solder all the way around. Obviously I used way too much solder but it will last as long as the packs will. Probably forever.

I also used two pieces of shrink tube on each wire. One over the other. Then electrical tape and finally thin strips of gorilla tape. I went totally overkill on it. As you can guess I really did not want to do it. I was going to wait and pay someone to do it but am glad I did it as I am saving money and the next pack will be easier. I still have a lot of work to do though as I need to build pre hook up cables and charging cables.

However I may combine the SLAs later tonight for 24V@30Ah. The smaller shrink tubes will work for the 12 gauge wire. The wires off the Lipos were 8 guage I believe and the bullet wires 10. That is why I needed the larger shrink tubes. That and of course the solder job I did. A butcher job but strong enough to be functional. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Looks like you've damaged the plug in photo 2.

You shouldn't need to physically move the pins at all.

 

[DrkAngel]

Looks like you forgot to put flux on the wires!
Additionally, very likely, iron is set to too high a temperature!
(350ºC recommended as good starting temperature = 662ºF) (700ºF = 371ºC)

There are so many available soldering tutorials!
Try watching some!!!

Tips Bench - Soldering XT60 Connectors

 

[Skalabala]

You need solder cglasses classes+glasses

 

[latecurtis]

I will try flux on the other pack. I am curious to see the difference. Also I already made it perfectly clear that I SUCK at soldering. I would gladly have paid to get it done. The problem is I don't know of anybody capable to do it. Ricky next door soldered the burnt plug on the Lipo pack in the cash box about two years ago. He did not use flux either and the job did not look much better than what I did. I know it don't look perfect but will have to work. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Rosin core solder has flux embedded ... but, if too hot, soldering iron dissipates flux before being effective.

Heavy soldering tip is needed for heavy gauge wire!
Light-thin soldering tip cannot maintain temperature at contact point for proper heat transfer.
Setting temperature high, with thin tip will produce a too hot >> too cool temperature ... with heavy gauge wire.

Metal coil in video can be replaced with moist sponge.