new eZip motor

[Sunder]

For new builds one will be a 26" bike either the black bike or the dual suspension Polaris with the 800W 36V unite motor and the second will be a 20" bike with the
24V 500W Unite motor mounted to the front handlebars. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

Doesn't the suspension travel on your bikes throw your chain on these builds?

I'm skeptical that professionally assembled mid motor drives work well on dual suspension setups, and those are designed with chain tensioners. You never see a fixie with rear suspension.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. No LiPo Shoot for awhile!

I just did the math on google maps. Went to Dougs house after my last post and he was out of blank CDs and I needed a copy of Vista so I had to go to Rite Aide on Van Vranken. I did the math.
From my house to downtown was 1.8 miles. 1.6 miles from City hall to Rite aide on VanVranken which is about 1/3 mile from Dougs. 3.9 miles for the trip home.

7.3 miles but I walked it with the controller off for the .3 miles as it was heavy traffic and intersections and not jumping curbs. the distance up hills was the same as a normal downtown trip and the only thing I did different was taking it easy on the throttle. About 1/3 or less on the flat and about 1/2 up the hills. 10 to 12 mph on flat.

I was worried about running the old packs too low and was expecting to see all the cells about one volt or more lower. I am impressed.
I know what DA was saying about full throttle now and how it can kill batteries. By taking it nice and easy I went 7 miles and did not need LiPo alarms or a balancer.

Thanks for posting. Too dark to work on anything now. I dont really want to but will probably trade the Polaris dual suspension for the DiamondBack. The rear wheel on the 26" Diamond Back is bent anyway so will be replacing it with the rear Currie wheel so I can mount the 800W 36V Unite motor on it. Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

LC ... Sadly, you seem to be an admirable model for consistency!

Takes you, on average, almost a year from the time I explain things for you ... until you finally figure out I was right.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 3View attachment 2As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76Rir7qe-zk&feature=youtu.be

 

[Sunder]

Damn. Looks like you're carrying an improvised explosive on the front of your bike. Don't grow a beard - it might be just enough to get a trigger happy anti-terrorism cop to decide it's not worth the risk...

 

[latecurtis]

It still needs a lot of work.

The good thing is weight distribution. I tightened up the bolts with the Allen keys to make the handlebar's nice and tight. The big three foot heavy chain and padlock can go in the front basket too and the large rectangular basket that was on the Currie can go on the back tomorrow.

Notice the cassette though. I would really like to be able to use it for pedal. I am hearing a lot about the mid drive motors that allow you to use the pedal gears. I was talking to a guy I know at Stewart's who knows someone has one that goes 30 mph. I said good but my Schwinn will do that or close to it.
I don't see much difference if I can pedal plus use the motor. Just a more complicated set up.

Yea. I guess I am a slow learner. I just realized why it don't spark like the diamond back and the Schwinn when I hook the battery to the controller.
maybe because the switch is before the controller instead of on the controller.

Imagine the possible range though. It is about 35 mile capable if I were to combine the 10.0 packs for 20Ah at 22.2V but start with the 16Ah 6S pack first. 50+ mile capable if I bring ALL my batteries. Six SLAs in the back basket wired for 30Ah at 24V. and three cash boxes in the front for a total of 8 - 6S LiPo packs including Dans. Put all four of Dans in Parallel + the two 8.0s already in parallel and the new 10.0 packs.

I may have failed in building a 50 mph e bike but got one that will go over 50 miles easily if I bring all my batteries.

I need to get the pedal gears going now because if I pedal not only will it not get taken by cops but it will go up hills better if I am hauling a lot of stuff.
Remember though it will be better up hills than the 20" bike with the 2 by 4 was. 533W at 1834 rpm with the same 20" wheel and 60T spoke sprocket.
500W but only 1500 rpm for this.

Gearing was at 20 mph before and is 16.5 mph with this according to sprocket calculater.
Yes Sunder I saw that. It is much worse with the cash box and ice cube tray with it parked outside City Hall though as done many times. :lol:

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

I will be changing that and getting rid of the tray. Since I don't plan on running the diamond Back a lot or for long distance it will be exclusively for that.

Also the Schwinn only has one really low gear only useful on steep hills so for pedal assist on the flat I need Doug or someone to hook up more gears for it also.

 

[latecurtis]

Basically I have a question.
The packs Dan sent were split into two 5.0 turnergy packs taped together and marked and two other packs also together.
As I found out, they are still good for about 10 miles at 44.4V. They are combined as two 10.0 6S packs currently.

Also as I have posted one of the packs has a cell that charges too high at 4.2V which requires using the balancer after balance charging.
Since it is two 5.0 packs combined there is no way of telling which pack has the cell in question.

I was thinking about losing the ice cube tray and setting it up like I got my newer packs but was wondering if I should separate the packs and look for the one with the cell in question and retire that pack or would the cell stabilize if I were to combine all four 5.0 packs together for a 20 AH -6S pack ?

If the answer to my question is to separate the packs and find the cell then I have a question for DA.
I remember DA stating that he can make a 5S pack by removing one cell from a 6S pack. The 24" build that I am running the 16Ah pack (two 8.0 packs in parallel that is charging now). I am using the variable 10 to 50V controller with the built in pot. If Each one of Dans 5.0 - 6S turnigy packs were to have one cell removed the voltage would be perfect for the gearing. I will calculate it now.

At 36V rpm is 2250 and power is 750W. At 39 to 40V rpm is approx. 2500 and power approx. 875W and speed is 27 mph with the 60T spoke on a 20" wheel with the 11T motor sprocket. Please let me know. The USPS post office is close by and I can send them too you. Also that other variable controller that I complained about that is in toolbox. The infamous one that I hit the pothole from hell with two years ago. Maybe DA can fix it. please let me know and I will include a $20 bill so you can ship the packs back if you can make them 5S packs. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Illegal to ship LiPo via USPS? ... well, stringent laws and requirements.

Best to just add 1 cell to the "weak bank" that charges too high.
(Splice into the balance leads.)

 

[DAND214]

LC, Don't attempt to take them apart!!!!! You will be sorry if you try.
Which chargerer is overcharging it. Change chargers and try again. Most cases they don't do that, at least the twins to those don't. I have 3 sets of them left and running 18s and not having any problems and I'm bulk charging them. Charge them to 4.15 per cell and they come out almost perfect.

Dan

 

[Sunder]

Chargers will only overcharge cells, when another one is undercharged.

Have you ever gotten them "perfect", then seen what happens on the next charge? It's unlikely they will be a constant problem. It jnust might require balancing more frequently before they get to the stage where overcharge is a serious issue. (~4.35v is still considered safe - just that long term in that state shortens their life.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Batteries for each bike.

Dan. Don't worry I won't try to take them apart. I know DA you or Sunder could but I know I can't.

I was just thinking about combining all four packs for a 20AH - 6S pack.
Only one cell was high. I just need to know whether or not it is a good idea to parallel all four.

If not I will leave them as they are except lose the ice cube tray and make them like the two 10.0 - 6S packs I got from e bay that I have not broke in yet.

the new packs are charged and ready on the bottom of the pic. Paid about $85 each and are virgin packs.

The new ones can go for the Schwinn and the old oned for the Dimond Back for 44.4V or backup for 22.2V for the 24" bike.

Not worried about 36V. I got 6 - SLAs but am not hooking all six up as way too much weight. I may abuse them by running them full throttle 3 at a time.

As soon as I get the front tire changed and brakes worked on I will have a solid cargo bike. 500W and geared for 16.5 mph with a 16Ah - 6S pack and large rear basket I am taking picture of now. . With the cash box full of LiPo in the front and chain and padlock I can haul a LOT in the rear basket. If grocery shopping I can put about 10 pounds more in the front to even weight. This will give the old Currie a run fro it's money.

Thanks for posting. LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Once again, well maybe for the 5th time, I recommend you test each pack as per my instructions.
Find out the actual condition and capacity of every cell!

 

[DAND214]

Once again, well maybe for the 5th time, I recommend you test each pack as per my instructions.
Find out the actual condition and capacity of every cell!

Has it been a year?

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Pirates and dreams.

I had a vivid dream about a LiPo fire sometime this morning I think. Was up all night balance charging that pack. Notice the success. That is the 16Ah pack or two 8.0 - 6S cells combined. In the dream they caught on fire and all this black smoke came out and a pile of black soot was on the floor where the wires come out. LOL

I am glad it was just a nightmare. This rebuild has taken awhile. The reason is simple and there are two reasons progress has slowed dramatically. One is laziness . I slept until 5 PM today. :lol: The second would be the bottom picture. It is after 8 PM and for the last three hours I have been in front of the screen 95% of the time. I average about 12 hours a day easily playing Pirates Tides of Fortune. Anybody want to join. It is the Plarium server. I will get you in my brotherhood.

Thanks. LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Once again, well maybe for the 5th time, I recommend you test each pack as per my instructions.
Find out the actual condition and capacity of every cell!

Ok. As you can see I lost the ice cube tray and now have four separate packs once again.
I agree with Sunder as it really is not a big deal if one of the cells is a little high. It is probably most common with older packs and just requires a little extra balancing.
Nobody ever answered my question though as to if I should combine all four packs for 22.2V@20Ah so I will take that as a no and charge each pack separately and then recombine them as they were but without the ice cube tray.

I will need to solder parallel cables for the power so I can combine them properly. With the tray I just connected the bare wires to the bolts for the gator clips. obviously it was not the best connection.

It should be perfect for the diamondback with the 48V 800W hub motor. I shall install a switch though between the positive 44V connection and the controller to prevent the nasty spark I get when hooking to the controller even with the switch off.

My question is should I hook a fuse up also as neither the diamondback or the Schwinn have a fuse before the controller. With brushless controllers I figured the fuse was built into the controller but I could be wrong. I will need to install this for both the Schwinn and the diamondback correct. I can defiantly live without the sparks and with the pre hook up cable for the series connections I should be set. Please let me know. thanks.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Use a fuse?
Hmmm ... well ...
I've explained the purpose of a fuse several times.

#1 Basic, and essential, safety component
#2 Can minimize damage during major malfunction
#3 Cheap insurance against stupid mistakes

Well worth a dollar or 2?

 

[DrkAngel]

Charge LiPo packs in parallel or singly?

Well 1st ... you must determine the actual capacity and condition of each pack-cell!

 

[DrkAngel]

It should be perfect for the diamondback with the 48V 800W hub motor. I shall install a switch though between the positive 44V connection and the controller to prevent the nasty spark I get when hooking to the controller even with the switch off.

Doubly Redundant-Redumbnant!

... I can defiantly live without the sparks and with the pre hook up cable for the series connections I should be set. Please let me know. thanks.

LC out.

Needless and needlessly complex and of no use.

You are worthlessly using the "pre hook up cable" (Pre-charge device) in the wrong places and not using it where it is needed!!!

 

[DrkAngel]

I get the creeping suspicion that you have balanced your LiPo before recharging ... ?

This means that you are balancing your packs at "empty" and "full", which could account for 1 cell being excessively high after charging.
A simple bulk charge without balancing should give much better results!
Begin with cells of equal (full) charged voltage.
Use, then simply charge.

... unless you do have a self-discharging cell ... ?

But you may never know ... unless you do proper testing of the packs!

 

[latecurtis]

I get the creeping suspicion that you have balanced your LiPo before recharging ... ?

NO. I dont.

I balance charge first, then if there is a cell too high I hook up the balancer until it goes down and all cells are within .03V.

The packs are close now but I guess I will need to balance charge each separate to see which pack has the cell that charges to 4.2V.

The real pain in the butt is getting the old packs within .02V from each other to combine again. The power wires are not the problem as the pre hook up prevents spark.
The problem is combining the balance cables. When hooking up the Y balance connector there is no way of preventing a spark. I will use an extension but as far as I know there is no pre hook up for balance plugs. Is there ? . Please let me know as I would wait and order it if there is so I don't scorch a balance plug. Thanks. again.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Combining balance plugs, 4.10V to 4.20V with a <0.1V differential will produce no noticeable spark!

Combining batteries in series will produce no spark! = no circuit, so no voltage differential

Connecting battery to controller will produce a mighty spark (50V battery to 0V controller = 50V differential = 5000% the connection spark of combining balance plugs!).

 

[DAND214]

Why does that little snap bother you? I get a spark at 50 and at 75, it's still only a little snap. Same Anderson PPs for a few years now and no problems.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

That is exactly what the balance plug looks like on one of my new 8.0 - 6S packs. I still combined them and had no problems running them but that amount of damage to me is unacceptable.

As far as the power connectors I use alligator clips for pre hook up. I just touch them to the bullet connectors.
However when combining packs and hooking two balance cables to a Y connector a nasty spark can compromise the delicate balance connector.
I was wondering if there may be a small device with resisters built in which would work for packs which are slightly unbalanced.
Obviously if more than a little unbalanced they would need to be balanced closer before attempting to combine.
If such a device does exist I would like to know. If not I may attempt to build one. Basically I would just need to know what ohm rating for the six resisters it would need ? Please let me know. Thanks.

LC. out.