DAND214
10 MW
Good to see you haven't killed yourself with those monsters you build.
I still wish you had a speedo so you can verify your gear calculations.
Dan
I still wish you had a speedo so you can verify your gear calculations.
Dan
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
latecurtis
100 MW
Yes I know.
It is dark out again and no tire got fixed.
Lots of pirate havens got raided and troops got built and a 55 gallon fish tank got cleaned out but no bike got worked on today.
tomorrow is another day if god gives it to me. maybe then. Also I will look into a speedometer. Thanks for posting.
LC out.
It is dark out again and no tire got fixed.
Lots of pirate havens got raided and troops got built and a 55 gallon fish tank got cleaned out but no bike got worked on today.
tomorrow is another day if god gives it to me. maybe then. Also I will look into a speedometer. Thanks for posting.
LC out.
DAND214
10 MW
You are telling me that, you've been watching a video game all this time! I thought you were in the hospital from 50mph night ride/crash. I was gonna send Spokes :lol: :lol: :lol: 
Dan
Dan
Sunder
10 MW
How's it going LC?
I haven't been following your posts for a while. Been in Israel - 2 in 3 bikes here are electric. At least. Maybe even 4 in 5. It's pretty cool, except that the traffic here is hectic. No bike paths, except for tourist areas. Cars cut and swerve without indicating. You really need to be on the ball to stay safe here.
I saw an ad in the For-sale section, for a 100km/h capable Electric Scooter for $750. Trying to find out more from the seller, but he hasn't responded.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=83182
There's a chance I could have a >100km/h ebike before you, and I never had plans of getting one! All depends on the seller, I guess, and whether I can get it back to Sydney (It's about 900km away).
I haven't been following your posts for a while. Been in Israel - 2 in 3 bikes here are electric. At least. Maybe even 4 in 5. It's pretty cool, except that the traffic here is hectic. No bike paths, except for tourist areas. Cars cut and swerve without indicating. You really need to be on the ball to stay safe here.
I saw an ad in the For-sale section, for a 100km/h capable Electric Scooter for $750. Trying to find out more from the seller, but he hasn't responded.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=83182
There's a chance I could have a >100km/h ebike before you, and I never had plans of getting one! All depends on the seller, I guess, and whether I can get it back to Sydney (It's about 900km away).
DAND214
10 MW
What are you doing there? Looking for a ebike? just kidding :lol: :lol: :lol:
Yes it has been quite here. He is glued to the TV screen playing games. I thought you got being a kid much later in life, like diapers and so on.
Dan
Yes it has been quite here. He is glued to the TV screen playing games. I thought you got being a kid much later in life, like diapers and so on.
Dan
Sunder
10 MW
DAND214 said:
eBike prices here aren't bad. I haven't gone into a store, but I've seen ads for folding eBikes for around 3000 shekels, or about $750 USD.
They're all based on Cute/Bafang style small geared motors, but some of them are pretty quick. Not sure about the laws there, but I'd estimate some of the guys were doing at least 40km/h, so probably 1kw models.
I was there for a work junket. 1/2 the time was our "host" company (who paid for everything), showing off their new products, the other half was all drinking and entertainment. They obviously want us to sell their gear, which we already do.
Wish I had time to play games. Bought Deus Ex: Mankind Divided about a month ago, and I'm still on the first level.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Captain Latecurtis.
My pirate game has turned into my reality which I am beginning to miss : reality and sanity is slowly fading away into the great abyss.
However today was the second day I did not make it to the pharmacy to refill one of my blood pressure pills. When I woke up the clock said 4pm but I think the clocks got moved ahead or something. About 3 miles is a drug store which stays open until 10 PM and was about 9 PM or so I though when I left with the 24" bike which I put the good 24" wheel I got from Doug a week ago on the other day to replace the front wheel with the bulge.
The 16 AH pack (two 6S - 8.0 packs in parallel) read about 3.93V each cell with a couple at 3.94V. When I got to the CVS which was open until 10PM it was closed up and locked . I beat on the door awhile then went across the street to Rite Aide which stayed open until 11PM. They could not fill it as they had no information on the prescription. I checked my Blood pressure on the machine there and it was up to over 180 over 70. The highest it has ever been. I had to travel another 2 miles to the ER. I have an enlarged heart valve and was told by my doctor if it goes over 170 to go to the ER.
I got the pills and they released me when it went down to 160 over 62. I made it home with the bike and went all the way downtown and hit the beer store that is open 24 hours. pushed the bike up the big hill with a little help from the pot on the controller and rode it home the rest of the way from the top of Crane St. hill.
It is 3:35 AM now. I got home a little after 1AM. My BP is 157 over 62 on my left arm and 147 over 60 on my right. I have a home monitor.
I don't know how much longer I will live but am about to open my first beer. I will most likely stop after about three cans tonight. Anyway the batteries are on the Skycharger and went from 3.93V starting out down to about 3.74V. The trip had to be about 5 miles or maybe a little more. The Schwinn or the Diamond back would have done the job also with 44V Lipo but maybe not 36V SLAs. 36V SLAs are for round trips not over three miles. I am glad to see you guys still posting. Say hello to DA for me. I wonder how he is doing. I will be going to Dougs house tomorrow after I get back from the doctor. The game will have to wait tomorrow until after I get home.
Doug will adjust the front brakes and when I get the bullets soldered I need to run the 44V 10.0 AH pack I will be racing Doug on his mountain bike. I will bring my camera and tape it to the back basket so you can see the look on his face when he pedals his butt off trying to keep up. :lol: Thanks guys. I am back.
LC. out.
PS. I am still waiting on the LiPos to charge. It is 6:20 AM. I am on beer #2. The last one. I may have to lie down before they are done. They not even at 4V yet.
Should have charged them at 5A instead of 3. In my new brotherhood we just raided the crap out of this brotherhood who attacked earlier. I saw a blockaide coming in in 23 hours so I raided about four players with like 9 attacks. :lol: I talked to the captain and he is laughing hard. I might be too far gone.
Ok I will wait a few more minutes on the charger. I can run SLAs to the doctors tomorrow but wanted to go to dougs to work on the brakes. I hate windows 10. Where is the fracking calculator. Not sure but could be close. The 36V 800W motor is 2750 rpm@36V. @1000W is 3666 rpm and approx. 4500 rpm@60V. I will double check but think a 20" wheel with an 11T motor sprocket will go 35 mph. Power = 800W@36V 800 / 3 = 266 approx. At 60V power = approx. 1332W. However 1500W is required for 35mph. The solution is a 90T wheel sprocket. I just went back to page 71 and checked it. Speed will be between 32 and 33 mph. Perfect.
Doug said he has a black Diamond Back mountain bike. I will look at it when I go over there. If I could find a good 20" wheel for the back and 24" for the front and run disk up front somehow it might work. It will be a lot cheaper than a hub motor. Also it should run ok at 48V until I get a 60V controller. I already got a new 48V controller only used one time. It was when I first built the 24" bike. It has that nasty LVC Bu_ _ s _ _t though. ARRRRR. I am turning into a pirate. :lol: Thanks.
Captain LC out.
My pirate game has turned into my reality which I am beginning to miss : reality and sanity is slowly fading away into the great abyss.
However today was the second day I did not make it to the pharmacy to refill one of my blood pressure pills. When I woke up the clock said 4pm but I think the clocks got moved ahead or something. About 3 miles is a drug store which stays open until 10 PM and was about 9 PM or so I though when I left with the 24" bike which I put the good 24" wheel I got from Doug a week ago on the other day to replace the front wheel with the bulge.
The 16 AH pack (two 6S - 8.0 packs in parallel) read about 3.93V each cell with a couple at 3.94V. When I got to the CVS which was open until 10PM it was closed up and locked . I beat on the door awhile then went across the street to Rite Aide which stayed open until 11PM. They could not fill it as they had no information on the prescription. I checked my Blood pressure on the machine there and it was up to over 180 over 70. The highest it has ever been. I had to travel another 2 miles to the ER. I have an enlarged heart valve and was told by my doctor if it goes over 170 to go to the ER.
I got the pills and they released me when it went down to 160 over 62. I made it home with the bike and went all the way downtown and hit the beer store that is open 24 hours. pushed the bike up the big hill with a little help from the pot on the controller and rode it home the rest of the way from the top of Crane St. hill.
It is 3:35 AM now. I got home a little after 1AM. My BP is 157 over 62 on my left arm and 147 over 60 on my right. I have a home monitor.
I don't know how much longer I will live but am about to open my first beer. I will most likely stop after about three cans tonight. Anyway the batteries are on the Skycharger and went from 3.93V starting out down to about 3.74V. The trip had to be about 5 miles or maybe a little more. The Schwinn or the Diamond back would have done the job also with 44V Lipo but maybe not 36V SLAs. 36V SLAs are for round trips not over three miles. I am glad to see you guys still posting. Say hello to DA for me. I wonder how he is doing. I will be going to Dougs house tomorrow after I get back from the doctor. The game will have to wait tomorrow until after I get home.
Doug will adjust the front brakes and when I get the bullets soldered I need to run the 44V 10.0 AH pack I will be racing Doug on his mountain bike. I will bring my camera and tape it to the back basket so you can see the look on his face when he pedals his butt off trying to keep up. :lol: Thanks guys. I am back.
LC. out.
PS. I am still waiting on the LiPos to charge. It is 6:20 AM. I am on beer #2. The last one. I may have to lie down before they are done. They not even at 4V yet.
Should have charged them at 5A instead of 3. In my new brotherhood we just raided the crap out of this brotherhood who attacked earlier. I saw a blockaide coming in in 23 hours so I raided about four players with like 9 attacks. :lol: I talked to the captain and he is laughing hard. I might be too far gone.
Ok I will wait a few more minutes on the charger. I can run SLAs to the doctors tomorrow but wanted to go to dougs to work on the brakes. I hate windows 10. Where is the fracking calculator. Not sure but could be close. The 36V 800W motor is 2750 rpm@36V. @1000W is 3666 rpm and approx. 4500 rpm@60V. I will double check but think a 20" wheel with an 11T motor sprocket will go 35 mph. Power = 800W@36V 800 / 3 = 266 approx. At 60V power = approx. 1332W. However 1500W is required for 35mph. The solution is a 90T wheel sprocket. I just went back to page 71 and checked it. Speed will be between 32 and 33 mph. Perfect.
Doug said he has a black Diamond Back mountain bike. I will look at it when I go over there. If I could find a good 20" wheel for the back and 24" for the front and run disk up front somehow it might work. It will be a lot cheaper than a hub motor. Also it should run ok at 48V until I get a 60V controller. I already got a new 48V controller only used one time. It was when I first built the 24" bike. It has that nasty LVC Bu_ _ s _ _t though. ARRRRR. I am turning into a pirate. :lol: Thanks.
Captain LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I went over there yesterday. I got a flat on the back about half way but Doug gave me a new tire and a tube and his friend up the street helped me fix it.The batteries are recharged and ready to go. It runs great. Ready for 44V when I make the bullet cables for them so I don't hook it up backwards again. I will keep you all posted. I have cut down the time I play pirates from 14 to 16 hours a day to about 6 or 7. I took a walk earlier for my heart. I could have took the bike but walking is the only exercise I get. Thanks.
LC. out.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
Just got back from downtown. Same bike. The 24" running 6S LiPo. The LiPos are charging now. I had a garbage bag covering the controller and batteries as we had some rain earlier. It slows down a little going up the hill but makes it to the top. There is no pedal chain but I still pedal when I see a cop. :lol:
No doubt I am a master e bike builder at least in this town. There was a guy on the way home walking two mountain bikes and I had to be a wise guy passing him saying "you need to get one with a motor on it" :lol:
I love e bikes and riding them. It don't matter as long as it goes over 15 mph. 25 and 30 mph is a little more fun but I still enjoy just buzzing along at 18 to 20 mph awhile people stare at me especially those who are pedaling.
The 80T sprocket that was on the Currie awhile ago is on a 20" wheel as I installed it to a freewheel at Dougs house and once he puts the axle in it I will be bringing it here and building the 20" bike on the back porch with the 500W motor.
I want to put the 800W motor on the back of a black Diamond Back frame which is 26" and at Doug s house. I kind of want to run it with 26" wheels so I can have good brakes but not sure how I would gear such a thing. I don't really want a 100T custom sprocket. This is something I will need to figure out. Thanks.
http://www.bmikarts.com/219-Premier-Split-Sprockets-65T-100T_p_1409.html
Could someone please tell me for what type of rim is this sprocket for. I am not familiar with this split sprocket design. I am only familiar with the 56T and 60T spoke sprocket kits that I ordered and installed. Is this even a spoke sprocket or is it for some different type of mounting set up ?
If this were to work with a 24" wheel I could run a 26" wheel on the front for front brakes like I am doing with the 24" bike I got now except the one now has a 20" wheel on the back. Please ;et me know.
LC. out.
LC. out.
No doubt I am a master e bike builder at least in this town. There was a guy on the way home walking two mountain bikes and I had to be a wise guy passing him saying "you need to get one with a motor on it" :lol:
I love e bikes and riding them. It don't matter as long as it goes over 15 mph. 25 and 30 mph is a little more fun but I still enjoy just buzzing along at 18 to 20 mph awhile people stare at me especially those who are pedaling.
The 80T sprocket that was on the Currie awhile ago is on a 20" wheel as I installed it to a freewheel at Dougs house and once he puts the axle in it I will be bringing it here and building the 20" bike on the back porch with the 500W motor.
I want to put the 800W motor on the back of a black Diamond Back frame which is 26" and at Doug s house. I kind of want to run it with 26" wheels so I can have good brakes but not sure how I would gear such a thing. I don't really want a 100T custom sprocket. This is something I will need to figure out. Thanks.
http://www.bmikarts.com/219-Premier-Split-Sprockets-65T-100T_p_1409.html
Could someone please tell me for what type of rim is this sprocket for. I am not familiar with this split sprocket design. I am only familiar with the 56T and 60T spoke sprocket kits that I ordered and installed. Is this even a spoke sprocket or is it for some different type of mounting set up ?
If this were to work with a 24" wheel I could run a 26" wheel on the front for front brakes like I am doing with the 24" bike I got now except the one now has a 20" wheel on the back. Please ;et me know.
LC. out.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
Pretty sure those aren't for bikes. If they are, they're not for the rear hub.
Firstly, it's in a section for "Go Karts", rather than bicycles.
And the BCD is WAY too big to be on a rear hub. If anything, they would only be for a front chain-ring.
You could probably get someone to CNC up an adaptor for it though. Wouldn't be too hard, but finding someone willing to do a single piece without charging you an arm and a leg will be tough.
Firstly, it's in a section for "Go Karts", rather than bicycles.
And the BCD is WAY too big to be on a rear hub. If anything, they would only be for a front chain-ring.
You could probably get someone to CNC up an adaptor for it though. Wouldn't be too hard, but finding someone willing to do a single piece without charging you an arm and a leg will be tough.
DAND214
10 MW
I used those 50 years ago on my GO-Karts. Later we went cog belts.
Dan
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
This is the earliest I have got up in months. It is 11:14 AM here in northeastern NY.
I sent DA a message asking him about it before I realized it was not standard bike chain and there was probably no motor sprocket made which would work.
I only drank four 12 oz. Bush beers downtown last night and they are only like 4.3% alcohol for me that is a very light drinking night. I usually consume double the amount of alcohol before sleeping and rarely go to sleep before 6 AM. I just wanted to say hello to DA basically as I have not heard from him in awhile.
I did hit my pillow with a good idea though how to make the 800W 36V motor work and am going to calculator now to check the numbers.
It checks out but I will need to come up with some money. The good thing is I can use 24" mountain bike wheels instead of 20" I will need 8mm chain and 70T wheel and 10T motor sprockets which they make and a second 800W 36V motor.
Total power with both motors running at 48V will = 2,112W. Gearing will be almost exactly 38 mph according to sprocket calculator. If I order the same 48V controller I have it should work with a single thumb throttle and one motor on the back and the other on the front both with 10mm motor and 70T wheel sprockets.
I rechecked the numbers and they check out. The black 26" Diamond Back frame I bought from Doug which is still there will need 24" wheels and obviously a custom brake mounting job as they wont line up the way they are now. The advantage of 24" wheels on a 26" frame is a lower center of gravity which will make the bike less likely to flip. I will get the widest tires which will fit on standard 24" rims and use aggressive tread for good traction.
I believe 2,250W is required for 40 mph so the 38 mph gearing for 2,112W is textbook perfect for the application.
I am now checking for the availability of the sprockets.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-MOTOR-GENERATOR-10-hp-12-24-48-Manta-VEtek-MT-Pattern-USED-/232068880994
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14426__Turnigy_CA80_80_Brushless_Outrunner_50_80cc_Eq_.html
There seems to be lots of people talking about this motor. I really like the price however not sure how much a controller for it would be.
I sent DA a message asking him about it before I realized it was not standard bike chain and there was probably no motor sprocket made which would work.
I only drank four 12 oz. Bush beers downtown last night and they are only like 4.3% alcohol for me that is a very light drinking night. I usually consume double the amount of alcohol before sleeping and rarely go to sleep before 6 AM. I just wanted to say hello to DA basically as I have not heard from him in awhile.
I did hit my pillow with a good idea though how to make the 800W 36V motor work and am going to calculator now to check the numbers.
It checks out but I will need to come up with some money. The good thing is I can use 24" mountain bike wheels instead of 20" I will need 8mm chain and 70T wheel and 10T motor sprockets which they make and a second 800W 36V motor.
Total power with both motors running at 48V will = 2,112W. Gearing will be almost exactly 38 mph according to sprocket calculator. If I order the same 48V controller I have it should work with a single thumb throttle and one motor on the back and the other on the front both with 10mm motor and 70T wheel sprockets.
I rechecked the numbers and they check out. The black 26" Diamond Back frame I bought from Doug which is still there will need 24" wheels and obviously a custom brake mounting job as they wont line up the way they are now. The advantage of 24" wheels on a 26" frame is a lower center of gravity which will make the bike less likely to flip. I will get the widest tires which will fit on standard 24" rims and use aggressive tread for good traction.
I believe 2,250W is required for 40 mph so the 38 mph gearing for 2,112W is textbook perfect for the application.
I am now checking for the availability of the sprockets.http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-MOTOR-GENERATOR-10-hp-12-24-48-Manta-VEtek-MT-Pattern-USED-/232068880994
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14426__Turnigy_CA80_80_Brushless_Outrunner_50_80cc_Eq_.html
There seems to be lots of people talking about this motor. I really like the price however not sure how much a controller for it would be.
DAND214
10 MW
The way you over load these things you better buy a couple controllers. You wanna go fast, just get a higher voltage controller for the hub motors and run 18s 66,v nominal. that should get you the 40mph ride to the hospital :lol: :lol: :lol:
Why waist the 26" frame with 24" tires with no brakes? 26" has more options than any 24" will. Stop buying these crazy chain drive setups and ride the hub, much easier and more quiet and reliable.
This might be a hobby but you can't build new ones forever.
Dan
Why waist the 26" frame with 24" tires with no brakes? 26" has more options than any 24" will. Stop buying these crazy chain drive setups and ride the hub, much easier and more quiet and reliable.
This might be a hobby but you can't build new ones forever.
Dan
Sunder
10 MW
Yeah, either get a professional mid-drive that has gearing, so you can do more with the power you've got, or go a big hub.
Really the only way of getting good power, reliably.
I'm skeptical that you're going to get the theoretical 2kw/40mph. That's because the 2kw figure is measured at the wheel, where as I'm pretty certain you're still talking at the electrical level. First you'll lose through bad connectors, then under-sized wires. Then the controller itself will have its losses, before the motor takes it cut. Finally, a properly tensioned and aligned roller chain has a 97-98% efficiency, but even just a couple ft/lbs too tight, and you're losing a tonne of energy through friction and deformational energy.
You should get a $10 bike speedo so we can see what you're actually doing. Because while the power to go a certain speed is exponential, so does the feeling of going fast. 40km/h feels like cruising. 45 feels fast. 50 feels really fast. 60 feels suicidal.
There's been a few times I've thought I was going at least 70, (43mph) down a hill, and when I've checked my logs after the ride, I was only going 62-63, but those couple of km/hs feels a lot faster than 60.
Really the only way of getting good power, reliably.
I'm skeptical that you're going to get the theoretical 2kw/40mph. That's because the 2kw figure is measured at the wheel, where as I'm pretty certain you're still talking at the electrical level. First you'll lose through bad connectors, then under-sized wires. Then the controller itself will have its losses, before the motor takes it cut. Finally, a properly tensioned and aligned roller chain has a 97-98% efficiency, but even just a couple ft/lbs too tight, and you're losing a tonne of energy through friction and deformational energy.
You should get a $10 bike speedo so we can see what you're actually doing. Because while the power to go a certain speed is exponential, so does the feeling of going fast. 40km/h feels like cruising. 45 feels fast. 50 feels really fast. 60 feels suicidal.
There's been a few times I've thought I was going at least 70, (43mph) down a hill, and when I've checked my logs after the ride, I was only going 62-63, but those couple of km/hs feels a lot faster than 60.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-HP-DC-MOTOR-13-6VDC-2-75hp-at-12-VDC-12-VOLT-Electric-Car-Bike-Project-/272304635866?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
I guess they are finally building motors that don't need 4 batteries and a 100 tooth sprocket to go 40 mph.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-1V-3S-10000mAh-25C-XT60-Plug-Lipo-Battery-For-RC-Helicopter-Aircraft-Airplane-/361514588516?hash=item542bf2d964:g:4goAAOSwDuJWvr0I
Two of those in parallel should do the trick.
This puppy will do it on a 12V battery and normal size sprocket. It is worth every penny if it is real. So what if it is a little heavy. It is probably about 10 pounds more than a Unite motor like the three I currently own.
The mounting will be a little challenge but I have made my decision. When I get the money I want to order this motor and build a 40 mph e bike.
40 mph is the absolute fastest I want to go on anything with two wheels. I am not the speed demon I have made myself out to be. If I were I would have figured out how to drive a motorcycle years ago. I am scared to get on one.
Also I have a heart condition and when I do go 40 mph with this thing it will be on an open stretch of country road with a crash helmet on.
Now is there any way you guys can help me to build this thing. I will need a controller suitable for the power output. I don't like the controller they suggested. It says it has a reverse switch and I don't want that as it might get switched by accident and that would not be good and also it has a pot.. for a throttle which is only safe at speeds under 30 mph with a kill switch. I want a controller with a thumb throttle and a kill switch for 40 mph. I also will need very heavy duty mounting brackets. I am not sure exactly where to mount it but am open for ideas. Please check this motor out and post when you can.
LC. out.
I guess they are finally building motors that don't need 4 batteries and a 100 tooth sprocket to go 40 mph.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-1V-3S-10000mAh-25C-XT60-Plug-Lipo-Battery-For-RC-Helicopter-Aircraft-Airplane-/361514588516?hash=item542bf2d964:g:4goAAOSwDuJWvr0I
Two of those in parallel should do the trick.
This puppy will do it on a 12V battery and normal size sprocket. It is worth every penny if it is real. So what if it is a little heavy. It is probably about 10 pounds more than a Unite motor like the three I currently own.
The mounting will be a little challenge but I have made my decision. When I get the money I want to order this motor and build a 40 mph e bike.
40 mph is the absolute fastest I want to go on anything with two wheels. I am not the speed demon I have made myself out to be. If I were I would have figured out how to drive a motorcycle years ago. I am scared to get on one.
Also I have a heart condition and when I do go 40 mph with this thing it will be on an open stretch of country road with a crash helmet on.
Now is there any way you guys can help me to build this thing. I will need a controller suitable for the power output. I don't like the controller they suggested. It says it has a reverse switch and I don't want that as it might get switched by accident and that would not be good and also it has a pot.. for a throttle which is only safe at speeds under 30 mph with a kill switch. I want a controller with a thumb throttle and a kill switch for 40 mph. I also will need very heavy duty mounting brackets. I am not sure exactly where to mount it but am open for ideas. Please check this motor out and post when you can.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
You've got some challenges there.
Firstly, 3S is only 11.1v. That means the motor will have a lower top speed - no problem, just gear up, but it also means you're down to a theoretical 1.7kw or 2.2hp.
You then need to be able to handle 155amps. Thats one hell of a controller. Not to mention that you'd still need 2 x XT90s, and 7AWG at the battery side and 2AWG motor side.
If I were you, I'd go 4S, and gear differently to account. You could then probably cut the wire guages down and reduce the current.
Firstly, 3S is only 11.1v. That means the motor will have a lower top speed - no problem, just gear up, but it also means you're down to a theoretical 1.7kw or 2.2hp.
You then need to be able to handle 155amps. Thats one hell of a controller. Not to mention that you'd still need 2 x XT90s, and 7AWG at the battery side and 2AWG motor side.
If I were you, I'd go 4S, and gear differently to account. You could then probably cut the wire guages down and reduce the current.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Wait. Am I reading this right? It's a problem that you need a high voltage, but then need to step down the gearing too much?
You do know that technically, motors do not have a speed - they only have a RPM to volt ratio? That means if you don't want to use 4 batteries and a 100 tooth gear, then you can go 2 batteries and a 50 tooth gear instead, or 1 battery and a 25 tooth gear.
Only caveat is that the lower the voltage, the higher the current, and therefore you need a controller that will cope, LiPo, and good connectors and wires.
Well, actually, the other caveat is that motors tend to be slightly more efficient when run at higher RPMs, so if your motor could normally cope with 2kw, you might want to limit it a little lower, say 1.8-1.9kw.
latecurtis
100 MW
I get 57.2 tooth wheel and 11 tooth motor sprocket with a 26" wheel and 40 mph gearing.
I have a 56 tooth sprocket and also would rather have a mountain bike with 26" tires rated for 250 lbs and not have to do any brake modifications.
It is like this motor has my name on it. It is the perfect motor as essentially 50 mph is an excessive amount of speed for a 250 lb person on any type of bicycle especially with a heart problem so a 40 mph capable bike is the perfect compromise for me.
I am ordering this motor as soon as I get the money up. It could take a month or two but that gives me time to find the perfect controller and yes Sunder I will take your advice on the super heavy gauge wire and high amp fuses. There wont be a compromise on the brakes either. Disk for front. and good working rear brakes also. I am looking for this to be my first serious build. I want it to be a bike that any of you guys would ride including DA and I know his safety standards are high.
Thanks everybody and I hope you all post on this new fantastic professional build that I want to do.
Sincerely LC out.
I have a 56 tooth sprocket and also would rather have a mountain bike with 26" tires rated for 250 lbs and not have to do any brake modifications.
It is like this motor has my name on it. It is the perfect motor as essentially 50 mph is an excessive amount of speed for a 250 lb person on any type of bicycle especially with a heart problem so a 40 mph capable bike is the perfect compromise for me.
I am ordering this motor as soon as I get the money up. It could take a month or two but that gives me time to find the perfect controller and yes Sunder I will take your advice on the super heavy gauge wire and high amp fuses. There wont be a compromise on the brakes either. Disk for front. and good working rear brakes also. I am looking for this to be my first serious build. I want it to be a bike that any of you guys would ride including DA and I know his safety standards are high.
Thanks everybody and I hope you all post on this new fantastic professional build that I want to do.
Sincerely LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
What is the weight of this motor compared to your existing ones?
The weight of the motor is a good guide to the amount of total power you can put through it.
Why don't you try getting a higher current, lower voltage controller, and try converting one of your existing motors first?
latecurtis
100 MW
The weight of that motor is 24 pounds. It states it in the link I posted. The Unite motors I currently own are all approx. 15 pounds. I looked for an exact weight but did not find it.
As far as a lower voltage controller for my existing motors I already have. I am currently running the 48V 1,000W 3,000 rpm motor at 24V 500W and 1500 rpm.
It goes approx. 18 to 20 mph. It runs much better at 36V 750W and 2250 rpm and goes about 22 to 24 mph and much better climbing hills. I have yet to try 44V LiPo with it yet. The time I tried a couple weeks ago I hooked it reverse polarity as the 44V pack was set up for the Schwinn and the front hub kit you sent me. I need to make bullet extensions so I can try the Unite motor at 44V.
I am pretty sure the only way to get 40 mph out of a Unite motor would be to rewind it. The problem with those motors as well as the AmpFlow motors is the high rpm.
It is why I am running a 60T sproket on the wheel. Most brushless motors are also too high rpm and require expensive gear reduction. That is why I am so happy to finally find a motor that can work with the 56 tooth spoke kit I currently own and not using and I don't have to compromise by running a 20" wheel or paying for a custom sprocket the size of a buzz-saw.
Every motor choice has it's pros and cons though and the cons are very heavy guage wire and high amp fuses will be needed as well as a good controller 12 to 14V. Like I said I don't really like the controller they recommend. A reverse switch sounds dangerous. When I hooked the polarity wrong the bike went in full reverse and scared the crap out of me. Good thing there was a kill switch. Also I own two variable controllers with built in pots. They are great for low speeds and up to 25 mph. After that they are unsafe in my opinion and would be much better with a thumb throttle. thanks.
LC. out.
As far as a lower voltage controller for my existing motors I already have. I am currently running the 48V 1,000W 3,000 rpm motor at 24V 500W and 1500 rpm.
It goes approx. 18 to 20 mph. It runs much better at 36V 750W and 2250 rpm and goes about 22 to 24 mph and much better climbing hills. I have yet to try 44V LiPo with it yet. The time I tried a couple weeks ago I hooked it reverse polarity as the 44V pack was set up for the Schwinn and the front hub kit you sent me. I need to make bullet extensions so I can try the Unite motor at 44V.
I am pretty sure the only way to get 40 mph out of a Unite motor would be to rewind it. The problem with those motors as well as the AmpFlow motors is the high rpm.
It is why I am running a 60T sproket on the wheel. Most brushless motors are also too high rpm and require expensive gear reduction. That is why I am so happy to finally find a motor that can work with the 56 tooth spoke kit I currently own and not using and I don't have to compromise by running a 20" wheel or paying for a custom sprocket the size of a buzz-saw.
Every motor choice has it's pros and cons though and the cons are very heavy guage wire and high amp fuses will be needed as well as a good controller 12 to 14V. Like I said I don't really like the controller they recommend. A reverse switch sounds dangerous. When I hooked the polarity wrong the bike went in full reverse and scared the crap out of me. Good thing there was a kill switch. Also I own two variable controllers with built in pots. They are great for low speeds and up to 25 mph. After that they are unsafe in my opinion and would be much better with a thumb throttle. thanks.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
No motor has a rated RPM. It only has a rating of RPM per Volt, which means if the motor is running too fast, you've got too high a voltage.
Motors do have a maximum rated current. The Unite MY1020 appears to be about 27A, though these often have a bit of buffer, since that's usually the continuous rating at 25*C. if you're in a cool climate, and don't have very long hills, you will probably be able to push it a touch harder.
So a 3000rpm motor @ 48v @ 27a = 1.3kw (Almost 2hp)
That same motor will be running at 1500rpm @ 24v @30a = 720w, but could be run on a much smaller gear.
Might be worth experimenting with if you can. You might not be ever using close to the 27a limit, and so you might not feel that big a loss of power.
A 24 pound motor is a monster. It will definitely handle more current and power than the Unite, but it might still not be the best choice for you.
latecurtis
100 MW
I am not fully grasping the concept.
Are you saying the power of the Unite motor is underrated and actually the maximum charge voltage * the maximum amps rating.
Also how can the maximum amp rating increase to 30A @ 24V ?
I would but I don't know where I am getting the money for the motor yet so would like to use the 56 tooth for 40 mph gearing with a 26" wheel as I already have it. I did go to college for electrical technology but did not complete it. I even remember they had a formula for computing the resistance and it had pie in it. :lol:
I don't need the exact numbers to know the theory however. The shortest distance between the motor , controller and batteries the better.
Thanks and that will be incorporated into the design.
What would be the gauge if less than 6 inches ? Please let me know.
LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
All specifications are met under certain assumptions, such as the temperature is 25*C, or there is no active airflow, etc. If your circumstances are more forgiving than the test conditions, then yes, the specification is "underrated" for your application. Living in Upstate New York, I suspect it rarely gets to 25*C. and since your bike is always moving while it's under load, it's effectively got active cooling.
If it was my gear, I'd be willing to push it 20-30% over specification. But because it's someone else's gear, I'd be more conservative, and test 10% over, and test for heat, and slowly increase if it was possible.
latecurtis said:
Again, those numbers take certain assumptions. So you could try some lighter guages.
The shorter distance doesn't technically increase the ampacity - what it does is reduce the resistance, meaning the overall voltage sag, and power loss is lower - however, it will still generate heat if it's too thin a wire, and that will over time degrade the insulation. Expose the insulation to air as much as possible, and you could probably safely run 1-2 guages lighter.
DrkAngel
1 GW
As usual ... too much motor for a bicycle!
Sunder
10 MW
Not really relevant to your thread, but I'm in the process of buying an electric scooter:
70mph top speed, range of 65 miles at city speeds (less at highway speeds).
The battery on it is getting end of life, but I'm hoping to run it for a few months longer before seeing if I can install a decent bank of LiPo. Wouldn't be as long lived as the original LiFePo4, but should be cheaper and lighter, and if I keep it out of the sun, it should still give me 3 years.
If you want high speeds, this is how you do it - legally.
70mph top speed, range of 65 miles at city speeds (less at highway speeds).
The battery on it is getting end of life, but I'm hoping to run it for a few months longer before seeing if I can install a decent bank of LiPo. Wouldn't be as long lived as the original LiFePo4, but should be cheaper and lighter, and if I keep it out of the sun, it should still give me 3 years.
If you want high speeds, this is how you do it - legally.
- Status
