DrkAngel
1 GW
Just use care when nailing cells together!latecurtis said:
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
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Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
That one has been out of stock for ages. I would have bought out their entire stock at that price.
The one I flagged as on special as well, is no longer on special. Not sure if I'll go a different supplier, or wait for more stuff to go on special.
ronnieb52
100 W
this is so funny
I have a bike that has over 20,000 miles on it never had to tighten the spokes the batteries have lasted over 2 years and yet he wants to put 2 motors on a bike two throttles wants to to over 45 mph don't know how to put brakes on a bike why doesn't he just get a kit and be done with it oh I know He wants to do it better. lol
explain to me how? oh I know keep sending he free stuff that you bought he bitches about stuff but keeps doing everything different. daaaaaaaa
oh and he's wearing out his shoes stopping his bike go figure lol
I have a bike that has over 20,000 miles on it never had to tighten the spokes the batteries have lasted over 2 years and yet he wants to put 2 motors on a bike two throttles wants to to over 45 mph don't know how to put brakes on a bike why doesn't he just get a kit and be done with it oh I know He wants to do it better. lol
explain to me how? oh I know keep sending he free stuff that you bought he bitches about stuff but keeps doing everything different. daaaaaaaa
oh and he's wearing out his shoes stopping his bike go figure lol
ronnieb52
100 W
this is so funny
I have a bike that has over 20,000 miles on it never had to tighten the spokes the batteries have lasted over 2 years and yet he wants to put 2 motors on a bike two throttles wants to to over 45 mph don't know how to put brakes on a bike why doesn't he just get a kit and be done with it oh I know He wants to do it better. lol
explain to me how? oh I know keep sending him free stuff that you bought he bitches about stuff but keeps doing everything different. daaaaaaaa
oh and he's wearing out his shoes stopping his bike go figure lol
I have a bike that has over 20,000 miles on it never had to tighten the spokes the batteries have lasted over 2 years and yet he wants to put 2 motors on a bike two throttles wants to to over 45 mph don't know how to put brakes on a bike why doesn't he just get a kit and be done with it oh I know He wants to do it better. lol
explain to me how? oh I know keep sending him free stuff that you bought he bitches about stuff but keeps doing everything different. daaaaaaaa
oh and he's wearing out his shoes stopping his bike go figure lol
ronnieb52
100 W
Opps double post
DAND214
10 MW
Maybe we should ask what size shoes he wears. He's not the only one here on ES that gets free stuff.ronnieb52 said:
WE have told/askedd LC to back off on speed, but? Reason he is building a new bike almost every time you read this thread is because, the cops are watching him and he needs to change things all the time.
LC is having fun? I think. It's been fun following his learning curve. He has admitted he's limited at a lot of things and good at others, Like beer. You can pick on him all you want, he's not gonna stop doing what or how he does it.
20,000 in 2 years? WOW that's gotta be fun and sore butt too. What kinda setup you riding? Motor, controller, batteries and kind of bike?
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo fire burns.
20,000 miles is a lot. I got three bikes sitting in my front hallway I have not rode in many months. One of them since last year. It has been about three months since I rode the bike with dual chain drive motors and last year since the Schwinn. I rode the 20" Diamond Back with the 800 watt front hub motor once this year I think.
I have been riding the Currie with the new gear reduction motor sometimes and the 24" cargo bike with a rear chain drive however A lot of days I only walk to Stewert's about three blocks away. Wall-Mart and Hannaford grocery store is less than a mile and at 250+ pounds it is wiser for me to walk there about three times a week for at least a little exercise. I take a backpack and carry groceries and shop three times a week average with about 20 or 30 pounds in the pack.
Also it is still raining at least five days a week and a lot of days I sleep until 5 or 6 PM. I still play Pirates Tides of fortune about 4 to 6 hours daily. I cut down from 8 to 10 hours. I drink beer late at night and watch movies on the fire stick. I could probably survive without any electric bicycles. However my life is very boring. Building new electric bikes is an escape from everyday life and it's problems. The need for speed is a normal healthy male oriented fascination and enjoyment that millions of people indulge in daily from pro race car drivers to motocross and other Adrenalin pumping sports.
However I am a poor man with limited $$$ and skills. I do the best I can and have little to no support as the few friends I have are hopeless alcoholics or are into gas powered vehicles as my friend downtown got a 750 cc gas bike. therefore I feel that the accomplishments I have made should hold some weight here. Most disabled and disadvantaged people would have a problem installing a cheap hub motor and getting a chain drive motor that goes 10 mph and a city block would be a miracle or fluke of luck.
To install two chain drive motors and go up hills a lot of factory production bikes costing $500 to $1,000 would fail on is nothing to be ignored as I am not most disabled disadvantaged and poor people. I am an accomplished e bike builder and will be building a 40+ mph bike simply because I am bored. Thanks.
LC out.
20,000 miles is a lot. I got three bikes sitting in my front hallway I have not rode in many months. One of them since last year. It has been about three months since I rode the bike with dual chain drive motors and last year since the Schwinn. I rode the 20" Diamond Back with the 800 watt front hub motor once this year I think.
I have been riding the Currie with the new gear reduction motor sometimes and the 24" cargo bike with a rear chain drive however A lot of days I only walk to Stewert's about three blocks away. Wall-Mart and Hannaford grocery store is less than a mile and at 250+ pounds it is wiser for me to walk there about three times a week for at least a little exercise. I take a backpack and carry groceries and shop three times a week average with about 20 or 30 pounds in the pack.
Also it is still raining at least five days a week and a lot of days I sleep until 5 or 6 PM. I still play Pirates Tides of fortune about 4 to 6 hours daily. I cut down from 8 to 10 hours. I drink beer late at night and watch movies on the fire stick. I could probably survive without any electric bicycles. However my life is very boring. Building new electric bikes is an escape from everyday life and it's problems. The need for speed is a normal healthy male oriented fascination and enjoyment that millions of people indulge in daily from pro race car drivers to motocross and other Adrenalin pumping sports.
However I am a poor man with limited $$$ and skills. I do the best I can and have little to no support as the few friends I have are hopeless alcoholics or are into gas powered vehicles as my friend downtown got a 750 cc gas bike. therefore I feel that the accomplishments I have made should hold some weight here. Most disabled and disadvantaged people would have a problem installing a cheap hub motor and getting a chain drive motor that goes 10 mph and a city block would be a miracle or fluke of luck.
To install two chain drive motors and go up hills a lot of factory production bikes costing $500 to $1,000 would fail on is nothing to be ignored as I am not most disabled disadvantaged and poor people. I am an accomplished e bike builder and will be building a 40+ mph bike simply because I am bored. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Road trip.
I have decided to NOT build another electric bike this year. The reason is I have at least one (the Shwinn) and perhaps two (The Currie)) which are capable of a 100 mile round trip. I have a son who lives in Little Falls NY. and goes to College in Herkimer NY. and works two jobs. He has an apartment there. I also have friends I have known almost my entire life one since kindergarten who live southwest of here.
My plan is to go see my friends and spend the night then travel to where my son lives spend the night then return to my friends to recharge and make the trip home on the third day. I have two very important questions.
1. Is it legal to travel those roads. Route 20 and the back roads. I do not want to get harassed by police. The Schwinn has a pedal chain and I can get one on the Currie. Both have good front brakes.
2. I have Dan's old packs and if I combine them I will have 10AH at 44V or 20ah at 22v if I take the Currie. I can also run my 8.0 and 10.0- 6S packs if I take the Currie. How much battery will I need ?
With the Currie I can also bring one or two spare controllers and order that 36V Lion pack which I can stop and switch over for going up any large hills as 22V and 500 watts may not be enough. Either way I will need to order more batteries.
I have never ran any of my electric bikes out of Schenectady. This will be a new experience and wish it to be a safe and good experience with no issues with law enforcement or it will be the end of electric bikes for me. I really want to see these people.
i am enclosing a map and am sure DA. knows about the ebike laws in NY. state better than I do. Also the capacity of the batteries I have. This is the most important thing to me since I started here on ES. I do not care how fast I go as long as I average over 10 mph. All that is important to me is getting there and home in one piece with no problems with law enforcement.
I will do a test video with the bikes including stopping with the brakes and will post it before I leave and want an honest opinion from whoever posts with advice if they would make the trip with the bike. It needs to be road worthy. If I am going less than two miles on tiny hills at 10 mph I don't need spectacular brakes and pedal chains however an 80 to 100 mile round trip is a different story. please let me know. The link for the map will be on the bottom.
LC out.
This forum is so retarded that I had to reduce the map size to 512 kb and now cant read it. somebody needs to get blasted in the face. i will have to see what I can do to make it readable. what a pain in the a s s s s .
The first link below shows my destinations. The second shows the town where I grew up as a kid (green circle) The blue circle is where I was born. My mother lives in the green circle and will be my emergency contact and possible transportation if I break down. However my friend bob probably has a truck and lives in the red circle. Cherry vally / roseboom. third link shows distance.
http://prntscr.com/gii24o
http://prntscr.com/gii2ko
http://prntscr.com/gii5i5
I have decided to NOT build another electric bike this year. The reason is I have at least one (the Shwinn) and perhaps two (The Currie)) which are capable of a 100 mile round trip. I have a son who lives in Little Falls NY. and goes to College in Herkimer NY. and works two jobs. He has an apartment there. I also have friends I have known almost my entire life one since kindergarten who live southwest of here.
My plan is to go see my friends and spend the night then travel to where my son lives spend the night then return to my friends to recharge and make the trip home on the third day. I have two very important questions.
1. Is it legal to travel those roads. Route 20 and the back roads. I do not want to get harassed by police. The Schwinn has a pedal chain and I can get one on the Currie. Both have good front brakes.
2. I have Dan's old packs and if I combine them I will have 10AH at 44V or 20ah at 22v if I take the Currie. I can also run my 8.0 and 10.0- 6S packs if I take the Currie. How much battery will I need ?
With the Currie I can also bring one or two spare controllers and order that 36V Lion pack which I can stop and switch over for going up any large hills as 22V and 500 watts may not be enough. Either way I will need to order more batteries.
I have never ran any of my electric bikes out of Schenectady. This will be a new experience and wish it to be a safe and good experience with no issues with law enforcement or it will be the end of electric bikes for me. I really want to see these people.
i am enclosing a map and am sure DA. knows about the ebike laws in NY. state better than I do. Also the capacity of the batteries I have. This is the most important thing to me since I started here on ES. I do not care how fast I go as long as I average over 10 mph. All that is important to me is getting there and home in one piece with no problems with law enforcement.
I will do a test video with the bikes including stopping with the brakes and will post it before I leave and want an honest opinion from whoever posts with advice if they would make the trip with the bike. It needs to be road worthy. If I am going less than two miles on tiny hills at 10 mph I don't need spectacular brakes and pedal chains however an 80 to 100 mile round trip is a different story. please let me know. The link for the map will be on the bottom.
LC out.
This forum is so retarded that I had to reduce the map size to 512 kb and now cant read it. somebody needs to get blasted in the face. i will have to see what I can do to make it readable. what a pain in the a s s s s .
The first link below shows my destinations. The second shows the town where I grew up as a kid (green circle) The blue circle is where I was born. My mother lives in the green circle and will be my emergency contact and possible transportation if I break down. However my friend bob probably has a truck and lives in the red circle. Cherry vally / roseboom. third link shows distance.
http://prntscr.com/gii24o
http://prntscr.com/gii2ko
http://prntscr.com/gii5i5
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
100 miles @latecurtis said:
10mph = 1.0kWh battery = 22.2V 45Ah
15mph = 1.6kWh battery = 22.2V 72Ah
20mph = 2.4kWh battery = 22.2V 100Ah
25mph = 3.7kWh battery = 22.2V 166Ah
30mph = 6.0kWh battery = 22.2V 270Ah
latecurtis
100 MW
Ok. I will order extra batteries and will not be running a race. are bikes legal on those roads though ?
479 / 1,000 = .479 kwh - I am only good for about 40 miles.
I will need real batteries. The batteries I got now might not even make it to Roseboom at 10 mph.
Yes my age factor calculations may be a little high. 30 to 40% for dans and 20 to 30% for the other packs are probably closer but am going with the max to be on the safe side. I really do not want to run out of juice out in the middle of nowhere. The cows in the field will not be much help. :lol: :lol:
Thanks DA for the information. I got the conversion for WH and kWH from google and according to your speed chart if I order batteries I could make it. That box of 60 LIFEPO4s is looking really good right now.
http://prntscr.com/giifdn
http://prntscr.com/giig4m
Yea. look at all the state forests. My friend Jeff and bob each have about 1,000 who shot the deer stories. :lol: I remember 20 years ago they would get into fights and not talk to each other for weeks over who killed the deer. :lol: It makes sense that they both live only a few miles from about five state forests. They hate the city. I wonder if there is camp sites around there. DA do you want to meet me there with your Currie. We can all go hunting. I am sure bob and Jeff got an extra gun we can use. Lets pack our freezers with deer meat. I just got to go thru some paperwork to get my license .
479 / 1,000 = .479 kwh - I am only good for about 40 miles.
I will need real batteries. The batteries I got now might not even make it to Roseboom at 10 mph.
Yes my age factor calculations may be a little high. 30 to 40% for dans and 20 to 30% for the other packs are probably closer but am going with the max to be on the safe side. I really do not want to run out of juice out in the middle of nowhere. The cows in the field will not be much help. :lol: :lol:
Thanks DA for the information. I got the conversion for WH and kWH from google and according to your speed chart if I order batteries I could make it. That box of 60 LIFEPO4s is looking really good right now.
http://prntscr.com/giifdn
http://prntscr.com/giig4m
Yea. look at all the state forests. My friend Jeff and bob each have about 1,000 who shot the deer stories. :lol: I remember 20 years ago they would get into fights and not talk to each other for weeks over who killed the deer. :lol: It makes sense that they both live only a few miles from about five state forests. They hate the city. I wonder if there is camp sites around there. DA do you want to meet me there with your Currie. We can all go hunting. I am sure bob and Jeff got an extra gun we can use. Lets pack our freezers with deer meat. I just got to go thru some paperwork to get my license
.Attachments
DAND214
10 MW
I would take the Schwinn. I'm rather sure you would get better MPAH than the Currie. If you stay around 15mph you should get at least 2 MPAH. So if you have charge points at half way like 25miles your gonna need at least 15 ah more like 20 to play safe. So also you need the charging equipment to charge so more weight so more AH.
I would guess the 10ah packs are more closer to 6 or 7 by now, since they weren't 10 when I sent them. More like high 8.5ah.
One of the most important thing is to learn how to change a tire!!!
If you can remove a rear wheel without cutting the chain do even get started with your trip. Most flats are on the rear even more if it's rear drive. Front flats do occur and with frt hub more than normal. Learn how to fix a flat. Carry a spare tube plus patches and a pump.
If you can walk to WallyWorld you can pedal, not hard just spin the crank. Then if you put a little effort you will help mileage.
So Schwinn with a 25ah pack, spare tube a hand pump maybe even a fold up tire. Then you need s tool kit to go along
Did you get any torque arms for Schwinn?
Dan
I would guess the 10ah packs are more closer to 6 or 7 by now, since they weren't 10 when I sent them. More like high 8.5ah.
One of the most important thing is to learn how to change a tire!!!
If you can remove a rear wheel without cutting the chain do even get started with your trip. Most flats are on the rear even more if it's rear drive. Front flats do occur and with frt hub more than normal. Learn how to fix a flat. Carry a spare tube plus patches and a pump.
If you can walk to WallyWorld you can pedal, not hard just spin the crank. Then if you put a little effort you will help mileage.
So Schwinn with a 25ah pack, spare tube a hand pump maybe even a fold up tire. Then you need s tool kit to go along
Did you get any torque arms for Schwinn?
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
I think the Schwinn has part of a torque arm. The thing is I cant run the Schwinn at 22 volts and with just the packs you sent all I will have is 44V@10AH as they are four 5.0 turnigey. Also if the controller goes I am out of luck.
With the Currie I can run all four of the 5.0 Turnegy packs in parallel for 20AH then switch to the 10.0 pack then the 8.0 pack. However at 10 mph I have only 40 miles which would make it to the town of Sharon and Bob wiould probably pick me up with the truck.
However at 22V I may have to walk up any steep hills and I believe route 20 has quite a few so the Schwinn would be better. What would be the best though would be the Currie with two spare variable controllers and two 36 volt LIFEPO4 packs which I could build with that box of 60 LIFEPO4 cells.
The Schwinn would be the best however if I built a 48 volt LIFEPO4 pack. I do have a 48 volt Chinese controller with a thumb throttle all ready to go for the Currie though. Basically the Currie and the Schwinn are both solid and reliable with decent brakes. The Schwinn has one advantage which the Currie don't and that is a rear basket for hauling spare batteries.
This will require some serious thought. I have decisions to make. no matter what I do for a trip like this I need to order more batteries. thanks.
LC out.
With the Currie I can run all four of the 5.0 Turnegy packs in parallel for 20AH then switch to the 10.0 pack then the 8.0 pack. However at 10 mph I have only 40 miles which would make it to the town of Sharon and Bob wiould probably pick me up with the truck.
However at 22V I may have to walk up any steep hills and I believe route 20 has quite a few so the Schwinn would be better. What would be the best though would be the Currie with two spare variable controllers and two 36 volt LIFEPO4 packs which I could build with that box of 60 LIFEPO4 cells.
The Schwinn would be the best however if I built a 48 volt LIFEPO4 pack. I do have a 48 volt Chinese controller with a thumb throttle all ready to go for the Currie though. Basically the Currie and the Schwinn are both solid and reliable with decent brakes. The Schwinn has one advantage which the Currie don't and that is a rear basket for hauling spare batteries.
This will require some serious thought. I have decisions to make. no matter what I do for a trip like this I need to order more batteries. thanks.
LC out.
DAND214
10 MW
How can the currie do 10mph and not climb a hill? I don't like long skinny chain. My Enduro kart ran #35 chain and it was junk after an hour race. We did put a lot more HP thru it at much faster speed but I just not comfortable with a long chain for any long ride.
As for the LiFePo packs. I sure wouldn't consider building and riding 50 miles without a few dozen rides. LiFePo batteries need more balancing than any LiPo I have had. You will need a BMS on them or balance charge them all the time. They might be some what matched cells as they are in a factory box as they claim. The price is cheap but as Sunder said, they are 2 x heavier than LiPo for the same capacity. Are you sure you want to carry more weight, since you are already at the weight limit of the bike limits.
From maybe 5 mile rides to 50 x 2 ride??? I don't know. You better get AAA in case you break down
Dan
As for the LiFePo packs. I sure wouldn't consider building and riding 50 miles without a few dozen rides. LiFePo batteries need more balancing than any LiPo I have had. You will need a BMS on them or balance charge them all the time. They might be some what matched cells as they are in a factory box as they claim. The price is cheap but as Sunder said, they are 2 x heavier than LiPo for the same capacity. Are you sure you want to carry more weight, since you are already at the weight limit of the bike limits.
From maybe 5 mile rides to 50 x 2 ride??? I don't know. You better get AAA in case you break down
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
You have made some valid points.
The chain is standard single or three speed chain from Wall-Mart. It is thicker than #25 chain which I ran with the Currie for about two years when I put the Unite motor on it. 22V and 13.5 mph top speed has been tested on the hills downtown and small hills up ,and it climbs them no problem at 500 watts with 13.5 mph gearing however for highway hills which can go up for a mile or two easily I don't see 500 watts working out. I see the motor overheating or the controller burning out.
Tribes hill on route 5 for an example is a long steep hill. I am sure there are similar hills on route 20. I called DOT and was told it is ok to operate a bike on that road. To be honest the only bike I think could make it up a hill like Tribes hill would be my dual motor setup. 500 watts going to two motors with two controllers = 1,000 watts with approx. 20 mph gearing.
This also works as the motors and controllers are sharing the load and the heat vs a single motor and controller. It should be obvious that for a hill a mile or two to reach the top this type of set up will have it's advantage over a single motor set up. Only a rear 1,500 or 2,000 watt hub motor could compare. The #25 chain on the rear however makes me think twice about taking that bike though as WITHOUT both motors working it is only good on the flat.
Also what must be taken into consideration is going down a big hill. No I will not need cinder blocks to roll faster down the hill Good brakes front and back though are a must. Even with no traffic or intersections on the way down a simple rabbit at 50 mph could cause me to go over the handlebars and fly thru the air. A deer at 50 mph would be like hitting a tree. The deer would probably walk away though but I would be carted off in a meat wagon for sure.
http://prntscr.com/givuvs
I know this as when I was driving home in heavy rain from college in 1996 approx. 50 mph I think it was in a 1982 Caddallack sedan deville a deer ran out on the passenger side front end and totaled the car. The front grille was smashed in and neither doors would open on that side. i backed up and looked around as I wanted the meat as I love deer meat and the deer was nowhere to be found so I know first hand what a deer is capable of. They are nearly indestructible. Only a large caliber bullet , slug or an arrow in a vital organ will kill them or slow them down.
You all preach about good brakes in the city where most of the hills I can easily stop the bike with my feet if I have to. Also I know and am aware of my environment as I take the same paths every week and traveled the same ground hundreds of times so around where I live in the city I can get away with a decent working front brake. NOT out on the highway though going a mile down a steep hill. I will need two brakes both in excellent working order. Thanks for posting and I will get back to you guys regarding brake, motor and battery upgrades. Thanks for posting.
LC out.
The chain is standard single or three speed chain from Wall-Mart. It is thicker than #25 chain which I ran with the Currie for about two years when I put the Unite motor on it. 22V and 13.5 mph top speed has been tested on the hills downtown and small hills up ,and it climbs them no problem at 500 watts with 13.5 mph gearing however for highway hills which can go up for a mile or two easily I don't see 500 watts working out. I see the motor overheating or the controller burning out.
Tribes hill on route 5 for an example is a long steep hill. I am sure there are similar hills on route 20. I called DOT and was told it is ok to operate a bike on that road. To be honest the only bike I think could make it up a hill like Tribes hill would be my dual motor setup. 500 watts going to two motors with two controllers = 1,000 watts with approx. 20 mph gearing.
This also works as the motors and controllers are sharing the load and the heat vs a single motor and controller. It should be obvious that for a hill a mile or two to reach the top this type of set up will have it's advantage over a single motor set up. Only a rear 1,500 or 2,000 watt hub motor could compare. The #25 chain on the rear however makes me think twice about taking that bike though as WITHOUT both motors working it is only good on the flat.
Also what must be taken into consideration is going down a big hill. No I will not need cinder blocks to roll faster down the hill
Good brakes front and back though are a must. Even with no traffic or intersections on the way down a simple rabbit at 50 mph could cause me to go over the handlebars and fly thru the air. A deer at 50 mph would be like hitting a tree. The deer would probably walk away though but I would be carted off in a meat wagon for sure.http://prntscr.com/givuvs
I know this as when I was driving home in heavy rain from college in 1996 approx. 50 mph I think it was in a 1982 Caddallack sedan deville a deer ran out on the passenger side front end and totaled the car. The front grille was smashed in and neither doors would open on that side. i backed up and looked around as I wanted the meat as I love deer meat and the deer was nowhere to be found so I know first hand what a deer is capable of. They are nearly indestructible. Only a large caliber bullet , slug or an arrow in a vital organ will kill them or slow them down.
You all preach about good brakes in the city where most of the hills I can easily stop the bike with my feet if I have to. Also I know and am aware of my environment as I take the same paths every week and traveled the same ground hundreds of times so around where I live in the city I can get away with a decent working front brake. NOT out on the highway though going a mile down a steep hill. I will need two brakes both in excellent working order. Thanks for posting and I will get back to you guys regarding brake, motor and battery upgrades. Thanks for posting.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Gear reduction.
View attachment 1https:
https://woodgears.ca/gear/ratio.html
Being a self proclaimed genius may have been a little premature for a boast. However in five years maybe if I continue to learn I could appear to be a genius to any average person on the street who stops to admire one of my builds.
However one of the things that have bothered me as I could not fully grasp the concept is gear reduction. How the gear reduction addition to an electric motor works. This page I found has enlightened me. I can understand the mechanics now and I did take the old Currie original 450 watt motor apart and closely inspected it so now with this page I totally grasp the concept.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1800W-Electric-Brushless-Controller-motor-grip-ATV-Go-Kart-Scooter-1800-Watt-/142461529403?hash=item212b5e6d3b:g:-9kAAOSwIxZZfpiM
This motor to be used with any adult bicycle wheel 20" to 29" will require some type of gear reduction. 4,500 rpm is only going to work with maybe a 12 or 14" wheel with no gear reduction without being horribly over geared.
A 2 to 1 gear reduction would equal 2,250 rpm. A 3 to 1 reduction -1,500 rpm which would make sense and a 8 to 1 or 7 to 1 could possible use a freewheel 16 to 20 tooth depending on wheel size but the big blue wheel would be huge and look rdicelous on a rear bike rack.
Please correct me if I am wrong but if the small blue sprocket in the diagram were an 11 tooth motor sprocket and the small green tooth were also 11 tooth then for 3 to 1 gear reduction the large blue tooth would need to be 33 tooth.
Obviously the large green tooth would be the wheel sprocket if I were to build this.
Now a 34 tooth wheel sprocket should not be difficult to come by as a wheel sprocket directly hooked to the motor sprocket would probably be larger that the wheel which is impossible. The build would take place on the top of a rear rack with plywood bolted to it and the motor bolted down. The motor sprocket. (small blue sprocket) would connect to the large blue sprocket by short chain and small green sprocket connect to the wheel sprocket (large green sprocket) by longer chain. My first question is ; Is there any place to order the gears and hardware to build the gear reduction for a wheel sprocket. I would need to assemble it and all would need to bolt down to wood.
I am not sure I am going with this as I am not sure about spoke sprocket kits. I think spoke sprockets eventually bend the wheel as they apply pressure on the spokes on one side causing the wheel to bend , wobble and eventually pop off the chain. It would explain why the 24" cargo bikes rear 20" tire worked for months then started giving me problems. I did however come up with a possible solution for that which would require long enough bolts to extend to the spokes on the other side but two mounting kits would be required but they are cheap. The added benefit however would be twice the strength of just bolting to the spokes on one side.
The other option is a brand new rear Currie stock replacement which cost $120 that I finally broke down and bought as I kept failing using bent up 26" rims. The electric motor sprocket hooked up to a freewheel type sprocket was my original build on page one of the post and lasted 2 years and now the Currie uses a similar set up. Only if my idea to use all the spokes on the wheel instead of one side could I afford a new build especially if I order the 1,800 watt brush less kit. Since 1.000 watts = 30 mph gearing and 1,500 watts is 1,500 mph 1,800 watts should work for 37 mph.
Now if I were to add a geared hub for the rear wheel the power is being transferred to and 37 mph would be my top speed gear I would have two lower gear options for hills. One for moderate incline and another for steep.
I admit I have no clue how a geared hub motor works but if all this were to happen it would be equal or superior to the average mid drive. This is just a hypothetical project so saying I have excellent working brakes. A horn and lighting that none of my bikes currently have would it be something any of you would test drive. I was thinking the Haro V3 as it is not a down hill bike but is one of the best frames I have to build and has disk brakes on the front. Please let me know.
LC out.
View attachment 1https:
https://woodgears.ca/gear/ratio.html
Being a self proclaimed genius may have been a little premature for a boast. However in five years maybe if I continue to learn I could appear to be a genius to any average person on the street who stops to admire one of my builds.
However one of the things that have bothered me as I could not fully grasp the concept is gear reduction. How the gear reduction addition to an electric motor works. This page I found has enlightened me. I can understand the mechanics now and I did take the old Currie original 450 watt motor apart and closely inspected it so now with this page I totally grasp the concept.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1800W-Electric-Brushless-Controller-motor-grip-ATV-Go-Kart-Scooter-1800-Watt-/142461529403?hash=item212b5e6d3b:g:-9kAAOSwIxZZfpiM
This motor to be used with any adult bicycle wheel 20" to 29" will require some type of gear reduction. 4,500 rpm is only going to work with maybe a 12 or 14" wheel with no gear reduction without being horribly over geared.
A 2 to 1 gear reduction would equal 2,250 rpm. A 3 to 1 reduction -1,500 rpm which would make sense and a 8 to 1 or 7 to 1 could possible use a freewheel 16 to 20 tooth depending on wheel size but the big blue wheel would be huge and look rdicelous on a rear bike rack.
Please correct me if I am wrong but if the small blue sprocket in the diagram were an 11 tooth motor sprocket and the small green tooth were also 11 tooth then for 3 to 1 gear reduction the large blue tooth would need to be 33 tooth.
Obviously the large green tooth would be the wheel sprocket if I were to build this.
Now a 34 tooth wheel sprocket should not be difficult to come by as a wheel sprocket directly hooked to the motor sprocket would probably be larger that the wheel which is impossible. The build would take place on the top of a rear rack with plywood bolted to it and the motor bolted down. The motor sprocket. (small blue sprocket) would connect to the large blue sprocket by short chain and small green sprocket connect to the wheel sprocket (large green sprocket) by longer chain. My first question is ; Is there any place to order the gears and hardware to build the gear reduction for a wheel sprocket. I would need to assemble it and all would need to bolt down to wood.
I am not sure I am going with this as I am not sure about spoke sprocket kits. I think spoke sprockets eventually bend the wheel as they apply pressure on the spokes on one side causing the wheel to bend , wobble and eventually pop off the chain. It would explain why the 24" cargo bikes rear 20" tire worked for months then started giving me problems. I did however come up with a possible solution for that which would require long enough bolts to extend to the spokes on the other side but two mounting kits would be required but they are cheap. The added benefit however would be twice the strength of just bolting to the spokes on one side.
The other option is a brand new rear Currie stock replacement which cost $120 that I finally broke down and bought as I kept failing using bent up 26" rims. The electric motor sprocket hooked up to a freewheel type sprocket was my original build on page one of the post and lasted 2 years and now the Currie uses a similar set up. Only if my idea to use all the spokes on the wheel instead of one side could I afford a new build especially if I order the 1,800 watt brush less kit. Since 1.000 watts = 30 mph gearing and 1,500 watts is 1,500 mph 1,800 watts should work for 37 mph.
Now if I were to add a geared hub for the rear wheel the power is being transferred to and 37 mph would be my top speed gear I would have two lower gear options for hills. One for moderate incline and another for steep.
I admit I have no clue how a geared hub motor works but if all this were to happen it would be equal or superior to the average mid drive. This is just a hypothetical project so saying I have excellent working brakes. A horn and lighting that none of my bikes currently have would it be something any of you would test drive. I was thinking the Haro V3 as it is not a down hill bike but is one of the best frames I have to build and has disk brakes on the front. Please let me know.LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
seven good reasons why you should help me out on this one.
1. I am not trolling as it is a rear drive build with no motor on the front.
2. It only will be geared for 37 mph. Not 40 or 50 mph and that is only 8 mph faster than the video with the 24" cargo bike at 12S LiPo so speed is not my main goal here.
3. The Haro V3 is equipped with front and rear brakes and the front are disk making it the safest bike I own.
4. If I pull it off on a moderate to low budget it will be an awesome build for other ES members who do not want a hub or mid drive motor or who like to try something different and unique.
5. Also this can be a winter project. That means I can shop around for parts and have at least three or four months to get them so I do not go broke doing it.
6. If any of you guys consider me a friend then it could possibly save me from killing myself with boredom. Especially in the winter months when I ride even less than I do now.
7. It would be an excellent bike for long road trips as if I get a geared rear hub with a shiftier I will get more miles per watt as I can downshift going up hills also keeping the motor from overheating and also cruise 30 mph on flat for extended periods of time without overheating the motor as top speed in high gear is 37 mph. The Schwinn 1,000 watt motor is only about 30 mph so 25 mph would be top speed for extended periods of time. I can go 50 miles in 1 hour and 36 minutes instead of 2 hours. I did the math
Thanks and please give it some thought.
LC out.
1. I am not trolling as it is a rear drive build with no motor on the front.
2. It only will be geared for 37 mph. Not 40 or 50 mph and that is only 8 mph faster than the video with the 24" cargo bike at 12S LiPo so speed is not my main goal here.
3. The Haro V3 is equipped with front and rear brakes and the front are disk making it the safest bike I own.
4. If I pull it off on a moderate to low budget it will be an awesome build for other ES members who do not want a hub or mid drive motor or who like to try something different and unique.
5. Also this can be a winter project. That means I can shop around for parts and have at least three or four months to get them so I do not go broke doing it.
6. If any of you guys consider me a friend then it could possibly save me from killing myself with boredom. Especially in the winter months when I ride even less than I do now.
7. It would be an excellent bike for long road trips as if I get a geared rear hub with a shiftier I will get more miles per watt as I can downshift going up hills also keeping the motor from overheating and also cruise 30 mph on flat for extended periods of time without overheating the motor as top speed in high gear is 37 mph. The Schwinn 1,000 watt motor is only about 30 mph so 25 mph would be top speed for extended periods of time. I can go 50 miles in 1 hour and 36 minutes instead of 2 hours. I did the math
Thanks and please give it some thought.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Keep busy over Winter ... ?
Try making Homemade Studded Tires
Winter should give you a great opportunity to experiment with all your FWD bikes.
Even @ 500w front tire should spin and put you down.
Will give you some idea of how a 1500w front drive behaves on good pavement.
Try making Homemade Studded Tires
Winter should give you a great opportunity to experiment with all your FWD bikes.
Even @ 500w front tire should spin and put you down.
Will give you some idea of how a 1500w front drive behaves on good pavement.
latecurtis
100 MW
They don't make 1,500 watt front wheel drive hub motors. 1,000 watts is the limit I believe. it requires a gentle touch to the throttle upon take off and I do that on dry pavement.
yes the dual motor set up needs to be rode. Also it is almost waterproof with the way I mounted the controllers. A plastic bag over the front basket so the wires coming out the bottom and a waterproof thumb throttle should do the trick.
Also studded tires front and rear should reduce spin out on slippery roads as long as I am easy on the throttle.
I looked at your screws for studs and see they need to go thru the thick areas of rubber on the outside of the tire. However to accomplish that correct they may need to be screwed in thru the the outside first then turned around and screwed from the inside. Also the screw heads could compromise the inner tube so a strip of gorilla tape on the inside of the tire covering the screw heads might be a good idea.
It looks like that could easily be accomplished however one of the reasons why I have not drove that dual motor bike is the fact it is a royal pain in the gazoo to line up those motor and wheel sprockets. It took hours and hours, bleeding knuckles lots of swearing and cursing tools and stuff getting slammed around and chains popping off several times to build that. Therefore I kind of doubt I will be doing that.
I did several test runs and videos of the bike to claim a successful build. Also the old packs Dan sent are the only packs set up to run two 24V controllers with an even discharge rate for both motors and since they are old packs they need to be charged separate and takes about 6 hours to do four packs to ride for 1/2 hour to 45 minutes.
However as I mentioned before I may uninstall the front 800 watt 36 volt motor and replace it with a 500 watt 24 volt motor like is on the back and the front wheel with a rear 20" wheel with the 80 tooth #25 sprocket bolted to the freewheel exactly what is on the back. The 36V 800 watt motor would work with a second 800 watt 36 volt motor for front and rear on a different bike for 2,000 watts total @ 12S LiPo for 40 mph.
I guess that finally solves what my fall/winter project will be.
And no I would not be retarded and do full throttle on take off on wet or dry roads. I would take off gently like I do when driving the Schwinn.
In fact I will post a video with the Schwinn on how to PROPERLY take off with a front wheel powered e bike so someone who operates one for the first time does NOT spin out or get hurt.
Also before I forget I need to take my camera to get some footage of the local bottle and can collector here. It is priceless. The kids call him Beetle juice as it is what he looks like. Hopefully you will see this skinny old man riding his 24" bike I think with a 20" rim on the back. (no tire) transporting cans to the local supermarket to get money as he stays at a monastery and needs to come up with $6 a night or he has no place inside to sleep. he does this daily and I saw him going down the little hill walking home from Wall-Mart last night.
Please note I have helped this guy out on numerous occasions and he was two dollars short from getting in last night and helped him out AGAIN and had to take $20 out of the ATM to get my beer cause I did. I have gave him frames to build two bikes which he sold and paid him to fix my front brake and posted his handiwork here a page or so ago. It barley made it to Dougs house where it was redone with a different cable and now works PROPERLY. :lol:
Anyway this guys name is RAY and there is two reasons why I am posting this.
#1 I need to get a video for comedy purposes.
#2 It reminds me of Nelson 37s friend and he has not posted in awhile so if he is not on my friends list and someone else has him there Please message him as I know he was from Florida and would like to know if he is ok. I am sure you all know Florida is getting TOTTALLY HAMMERED as I am typing this. My ol lady has sons and grandsons down there who are heading north in Georgia now.
Thanks.
LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
This might be an interesting thing for you to do over winter, and may save you some money in the long run, once you get it right.
I have been researching 3D printing for various reasons (one of which a friend bought a high end one, and offered to let me use it for the cost of plastic only). What I came across here surprised me:
I never thought that 3D plastic printed sprockets would be strong enough for cycle pedaling, let alone eBike and was looking for sintered metal printers, when I came across that quote. Looks like as long as you get the layers and infill numbers right, it's even stronger than aluminium. Makes sense, really. Aluminium, when it gets thin, isn't all the strong, and many manufacturers are trying to sell on weight.
If you can find a maker lab, or tech workshop or other place near you that does 3D printing at near cost, or even if there is a bulk printer near you that does it for profit, you can pretty much print any tooth count, any size sprocket for any common chain size, in about 30 seconds. There is a program called OpenSCAD (which I am probably going to look for time to play with next weekend), which you simply type in the chain you want, and the number of teeth you want, and it auto-draws the sprocket for you. You add the mounts for the other side, and you have an STL file ready for printing.
I have been researching 3D printing for various reasons (one of which a friend bought a high end one, and offered to let me use it for the cost of plastic only). What I came across here surprised me:
I never thought that 3D plastic printed sprockets would be strong enough for cycle pedaling, let alone eBike and was looking for sintered metal printers, when I came across that quote. Looks like as long as you get the layers and infill numbers right, it's even stronger than aluminium. Makes sense, really. Aluminium, when it gets thin, isn't all the strong, and many manufacturers are trying to sell on weight.
If you can find a maker lab, or tech workshop or other place near you that does 3D printing at near cost, or even if there is a bulk printer near you that does it for profit, you can pretty much print any tooth count, any size sprocket for any common chain size, in about 30 seconds. There is a program called OpenSCAD (which I am probably going to look for time to play with next weekend), which you simply type in the chain you want, and the number of teeth you want, and it auto-draws the sprocket for you. You add the mounts for the other side, and you have an STL file ready for printing.
latecurtis
100 MW
Thanks. I will look into it. I will google search 3D printing and see if anything shows up in the Albany Schenectady area. However there should be a company online where you tell them what you want and they make it.
I know one thing I am ruling out 8 mm chain. Cheap garbage not much better than #25 chain.
Also a plastic wheel sprocket for #420 chain would be thicker and stronger than one for standard bike or 8 mm chain so would work.That would be my choice for a plastic sprocket. two things though : How would it hold up to the extreme cold ? Plastic has been known to become brittle and snap under extreme below zero or near zero conditions. Also a plastic sprocket is softer than metal and a metal chain would wear down the plastic teeth I would think but could be wrong.
I searched for nelson 37 and he no longer exists on this forum. I did a search on this post and his name shows up where other people mentioned him but his posts are deleted. Also I did a members search and his name is nowhere to be found. Oh well I guess we will never know if his friend Stephen got out of the loony bin or if Nelson37 tried to rescue Stephen because he could not find north on the compass. Hopefully they both did not get sucked up into the eye of the hurricane kicking and screaming.
Thanks.
LC out.
I know one thing I am ruling out 8 mm chain. Cheap garbage not much better than #25 chain.
Also a plastic wheel sprocket for #420 chain would be thicker and stronger than one for standard bike or 8 mm chain so would work.That would be my choice for a plastic sprocket. two things though : How would it hold up to the extreme cold ? Plastic has been known to become brittle and snap under extreme below zero or near zero conditions. Also a plastic sprocket is softer than metal and a metal chain would wear down the plastic teeth I would think but could be wrong.
I searched for nelson 37 and he no longer exists on this forum. I did a search on this post and his name shows up where other people mentioned him but his posts are deleted. Also I did a members search and his name is nowhere to be found. Oh well I guess we will never know if his friend Stephen got out of the loony bin or if Nelson37 tried to rescue Stephen because he could not find north on the compass. Hopefully they both did not get sucked up into the eye of the hurricane kicking and screaming.
Thanks.
LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
ABS is good to -17*C, no significant loss of strength until then. By -30*C though, it will crack quite easily. If you're still riding at -17*C, I'm going to be really impressed.
PLA is not an appropriate material for warmer places, as it starts softening at 50*C+ and deforms easily at 65*C. Not too hard for a dark colour in the sun. I can't find any cold temp performance for PLA.
PLA is not an appropriate material for warmer places, as it starts softening at 50*C+ and deforms easily at 65*C. Not too hard for a dark colour in the sun. I can't find any cold temp performance for PLA.
latecurtis
100 MW
So basically it is good from 5 degrees Fahrenheit to 100. -17C = 1.4F and nobody is going to ride in above 100F anyway. Has anyone used one with a roller chain yet ?
I really like the gear reduction which could be built using these plastic gears. I will not need a front motor if I can get gear reduction for that 1,800 watt brush-less motor on rear rack of the HaroV3.
it will be good for about 36 or 37 mph because 1,500 watts = 35 mph I believe. lighter than two motors and can also build a 60 volt LIFEPO pack and still get 40 mph.
I really do not want a chain drive motor on the front of the HaroV3. Not because I am worried about it spinning out. but because it will look stupid. Everyone has there specific taste in bikes and I fell in love with Doug's Haro V2 the first time I saw it and he traded it to someone for a Haro Flightline. I was not impressed and looked at him like he had three heads. About 18 months later I trade him my gaming machine worth $350 for the V3 which is a step above the V2 he had and exact same color. i got plenty of frames so I guess I could do both as I still want a 40 mph dual motor bike.
All I know is by springtime I am OFFICIALLY FINISHED for at least two years building e bikes. All good things must come to an end. Five ebikes and two more before spring.
However even though I am soon going to stop building e bikes for three or four years there is a really good reason for that and I really hope you guys will help me thru that time. As it will be the FX 75-5 time. I need to stop building tinker toys and build the real thing. The East Coast Death Bike. Who's in ???????
Whoever helps me put it together can ride it at a racetrack. I am willing to share the bike. it will be an off road motocross race bike. Probably only afford to go once a year but would love the experience. I used to go to the drag strip Lebanon valley back in the 90s. My friend BoB had his 67 Cornet RT with the 426 Max wedge motor. The one they made before the 426 Hemi. :lol: It was a 10 second car. Will the FX motor go 10 seconds in the quarter mile? Please let me know.
LC out.
I really like the gear reduction which could be built using these plastic gears. I will not need a front motor if I can get gear reduction for that 1,800 watt brush-less motor on rear rack of the HaroV3.
it will be good for about 36 or 37 mph because 1,500 watts = 35 mph I believe. lighter than two motors and can also build a 60 volt LIFEPO pack and still get 40 mph.
I really do not want a chain drive motor on the front of the HaroV3. Not because I am worried about it spinning out. but because it will look stupid. Everyone has there specific taste in bikes and I fell in love with Doug's Haro V2 the first time I saw it and he traded it to someone for a Haro Flightline. I was not impressed and looked at him like he had three heads. About 18 months later I trade him my gaming machine worth $350 for the V3 which is a step above the V2 he had and exact same color.
i got plenty of frames so I guess I could do both as I still want a 40 mph dual motor bike. All I know is by springtime I am OFFICIALLY FINISHED for at least two years building e bikes. All good things must come to an end. Five ebikes and two more before spring.
However even though I am soon going to stop building e bikes for three or four years there is a really good reason for that and I really hope you guys will help me thru that time. As it will be the FX 75-5 time. I need to stop building tinker toys and build the real thing. The East Coast Death Bike. Who's in ???????
Whoever helps me put it together can ride it at a racetrack. I am willing to share the bike. it will be an off road motocross race bike. Probably only afford to go once a year but would love the experience. I used to go to the drag strip Lebanon valley back in the 90s. My friend BoB had his 67 Cornet RT with the 426 Max wedge motor. The one they made before the 426 Hemi. :lol: It was a 10 second car. Will the FX motor go 10 seconds in the quarter mile? Please let me know.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 2
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Beetle Juice , Beetle Juice , Beetle Juice.
I saw his white hair nearly bald head coming towards me at a distance (the local bottle and can collector they call Beetle Juice) I was expecting the piece of junk with the 20" rim on the back with no tire.
I was surprised when I saw that. He said it is a 1960s bike. It could be older than me as I was born in 1965.
I even said to him. "Man I wanted to get a video of you going down that hill the other day on the rim for my bike forum. It took a lot of skill not to wipe out with that but you made it."
Then I asked him where he got the bike and he told me about a flea market in Saratoga.
That is the town famous for the horse racing track. There is a Mall up there I never went to and the local CDTA bus goes there for about $2. I have only been up that way maybe once and that was about 23 years ago. Since the bike is not in prime condition and the guy does not seem like a thief I believe his story.
http://prntscr.com/gkexys
Anyway I know this guy well enough to know he was planning on selling it. Most likely whoever buys it wont appreciate the vintage value of such a thing. I got it for $10 and $10 worth of cans as he said he owes the monastery where he sleeps $10. When I first hopped on it to ride it home I thought it was broke until I realized the pedals are the brake. Those older bikes were like that. Besides the seat the bike actually pedaled really good for the five or six blocks on the way home. The wheels are not bent at all. perfectly straight.
Due to the pedal style brake it wont be good for any steep hills but it steers and handles well. I would like to keep it. perhaps a new paint job. It looks like a likely candidate for a small brushless friction drive project nothing over 20 mph of course. Also I would want a bolt on application and would not want to drill or compromise the frame in any way.
If anyone has any Ideas I got a 24V brushless controller Dan sent me awhile back and could probably find a brushless motor for under $50. It does not need to go up any steep hills just 15 to 20 mph on the flat. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks.
LC out.
Also I went downtown last night to see my friend who bought the motorcycle and he will be selling his Specialized and will take payments. It is a 26" mountain bike and is AWSOME. He also has a Genesis frame I will be picking up.
I took the Currie with the one good 8.0 - 6S LiPo pack and started with a full charge and when I got back all the cells were around 3.74 volts. there was almost no difference between the cells. Maybe 0.IV. The pack is in perfect condition considering it's age. I just charged it and will take a picture as soon as the battery on my camera charges a little. I have not touched the one with the unstable cell. It sits in a cash box.
Therefore since I do not ride that often I will not need to order batteries until spring. I also bought two Goodyear extra thick 26" tubes to fix the Schwinn and will be charging up Dan's old packs and installing the speedometer. There will be a video posted once it is done. We will see how fast the Schwinn will go. So far the 24" cargo bike has the record at 29 mph.
I will soon have enough bikes and parts to open up a bike shop. Who's in ?????
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Beetle Juice , Beetle Juice , Beetle Juice.I saw his white hair nearly bald head coming towards me at a distance (the local bottle and can collector they call Beetle Juice) I was expecting the piece of junk with the 20" rim on the back with no tire.
I was surprised when I saw that. He said it is a 1960s bike. It could be older than me as I was born in 1965.
I even said to him. "Man I wanted to get a video of you going down that hill the other day on the rim for my bike forum. It took a lot of skill not to wipe out with that but you made it."
Then I asked him where he got the bike and he told me about a flea market in Saratoga.
That is the town famous for the horse racing track. There is a Mall up there I never went to and the local CDTA bus goes there for about $2. I have only been up that way maybe once and that was about 23 years ago. Since the bike is not in prime condition and the guy does not seem like a thief I believe his story.
http://prntscr.com/gkexys
Anyway I know this guy well enough to know he was planning on selling it. Most likely whoever buys it wont appreciate the vintage value of such a thing. I got it for $10 and $10 worth of cans as he said he owes the monastery where he sleeps $10. When I first hopped on it to ride it home I thought it was broke until I realized the pedals are the brake. Those older bikes were like that. Besides the seat the bike actually pedaled really good for the five or six blocks on the way home. The wheels are not bent at all. perfectly straight.
Due to the pedal style brake it wont be good for any steep hills but it steers and handles well. I would like to keep it. perhaps a new paint job. It looks like a likely candidate for a small brushless friction drive project nothing over 20 mph of course. Also I would want a bolt on application and would not want to drill or compromise the frame in any way.
If anyone has any Ideas I got a 24V brushless controller Dan sent me awhile back and could probably find a brushless motor for under $50. It does not need to go up any steep hills just 15 to 20 mph on the flat. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks.
LC out.
Also I went downtown last night to see my friend who bought the motorcycle and he will be selling his Specialized and will take payments. It is a 26" mountain bike and is AWSOME. He also has a Genesis frame I will be picking up.
I took the Currie with the one good 8.0 - 6S LiPo pack and started with a full charge and when I got back all the cells were around 3.74 volts. there was almost no difference between the cells. Maybe 0.IV. The pack is in perfect condition considering it's age. I just charged it and will take a picture as soon as the battery on my camera charges a little. I have not touched the one with the unstable cell. It sits in a cash box.
Therefore since I do not ride that often I will not need to order batteries until spring. I also bought two Goodyear extra thick 26" tubes to fix the Schwinn and will be charging up Dan's old packs and installing the speedometer. There will be a video posted once it is done. We will see how fast the Schwinn will go. So far the 24" cargo bike has the record at 29 mph.
I will soon have enough bikes and parts to open up a bike shop. Who's in ?????
Attachments
Sunder
10 MW
DrkAngel said:
You know, I see this every time I come to the top of the page. And even though it's meant to be a joke, I just kind of thought. Why not? Hear me out.
There are already packs which use m2/m3 bolts through foil tabs. Some of them don't even use washers to get better contact. These aren't as good as soldered packs, but for 30-40A, it seems to hold up fine.
So, it should be possible to get square doweling the exact width of the thickness cells, and height just shy of the height of the tabs. You would then fold the tabs over the dowel, and put a very small screw with a large rectangular washer to spread force, through the wood, pinning the two tabs together.
There you go! Woodworking skills do help with eBikes!
latecurtis
100 MW
Yes. It is what I thought. I guess sometimes I can be right about something.
Right now though I have a $300 electric bill so I wont be buying any batteries anytime soon. I have a good 10.0 - 6S pack. One healthy 8.0 - 6S pack and the four 5.0 - 6S turnigy packs Dan sent awhile ago.
I am charging them tonight and changing the tube on the Schwinn for a video soon. It has been awhile since I ran those packs and the hub motor. I have a new speedo. in the box I got quite awhile ago to hook up also + need to find a place to mount my camera.
Not ready for any winter projects yet but the winter project will most likely be building LIFEPO4 packs from those Full River boxes of cells. It will be for long road trips 50+ miles in the spring. I have enough batteries to get me around in the city for about another year at least with how often I ride. Thanks.
I found this touch lamp in the garbage and would like to use it as a regular plug in lamp but will need an on / off switch. I don't want to burn down my house or trip a breaker if I hook it up wrong. I have no idea what the yellow wire is for but must have something to do with touching the lamp.
If I were to take a guess I would unhook the yellow wire and completely remove it and the black wire and cut all wires from the circuit board. Then hook up the red wire to positive which is usually the striped wire on the power cord and the negative to the white wire however with AC current polarity really don't matter. It is why I never understood why and AC type plug or outlet has a ground.
It makes no sense. I cant even count how many times I have broke off the ground plug on power cords to plug into wall outlets which did not have a hole for it. My friend says it is in case lightening strikes it is supposed to save the equipment.
The negative wire going into the unit from the power cord then coming out as a white wire makes total sense however the positive does not make sense. It should be going into the dimmer unit then going out the red wire not both going into the unit and hooked to the three positive wires going to the lamps. I don't get that at all as the unit controls the power going out to the lamps. Please let me know as I want to be completely sure before plugging it in.
I am going to wall mart now to look for the switch. I already got the bulbs. I am replacing a junk lamp which has a bad base and loose on the top. Please let me know if I can make it work. Thanks again.
LC out.
Hello DAN. I see your name on the bottom. maybe you can make some sense out of it. I am about to charge up your old LiPo packs. Hey SUNDER I see your name too.
Right now though I have a $300 electric bill so I wont be buying any batteries anytime soon. I have a good 10.0 - 6S pack. One healthy 8.0 - 6S pack and the four 5.0 - 6S turnigy packs Dan sent awhile ago.
I am charging them tonight and changing the tube on the Schwinn for a video soon. It has been awhile since I ran those packs and the hub motor. I have a new speedo. in the box I got quite awhile ago to hook up also + need to find a place to mount my camera.
Not ready for any winter projects yet but the winter project will most likely be building LIFEPO4 packs from those Full River boxes of cells. It will be for long road trips 50+ miles in the spring. I have enough batteries to get me around in the city for about another year at least with how often I ride. Thanks.
I found this touch lamp in the garbage and would like to use it as a regular plug in lamp but will need an on / off switch. I don't want to burn down my house or trip a breaker if I hook it up wrong. I have no idea what the yellow wire is for but must have something to do with touching the lamp.
If I were to take a guess I would unhook the yellow wire and completely remove it and the black wire and cut all wires from the circuit board. Then hook up the red wire to positive which is usually the striped wire on the power cord and the negative to the white wire however with AC current polarity really don't matter. It is why I never understood why and AC type plug or outlet has a ground.
It makes no sense. I cant even count how many times I have broke off the ground plug on power cords to plug into wall outlets which did not have a hole for it. My friend says it is in case lightening strikes it is supposed to save the equipment.
The negative wire going into the unit from the power cord then coming out as a white wire makes total sense however the positive does not make sense. It should be going into the dimmer unit then going out the red wire not both going into the unit and hooked to the three positive wires going to the lamps. I don't get that at all as the unit controls the power going out to the lamps. Please let me know as I want to be completely sure before plugging it in.
I am going to wall mart now to look for the switch. I already got the bulbs. I am replacing a junk lamp which has a bad base and loose on the top. Please let me know if I can make it work. Thanks again.
LC out.
Hello DAN. I see your name on the bottom. maybe you can make some sense out of it. I am about to charge up your old LiPo packs. Hey SUNDER I see your name too.
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