latecurtis
100 MW
Yes, not so much a break in as a letting the charger have lots of time to get the cells balanced. Personally, Iv'e noticed that a pack that has been stored for a time can need the same "break in" again.
So the basic idea is to not try to find out what the full capacity of the battery is, until it's fully balanced. It "seems to me" like the balancing process is faster if you just take some small rides that do small discharges. Maybe in fact, it's just making it take less time to charge if the ride was short.
But the main thing to know is that the charger is not completely done when the green light goes on. It may need more time for the bms to discharge some high cells, after which the red comes back on very briefly to keep charging the lower cells. In a badly unbalanced pack, this can take weeks on the charger. But your pack should have arrived only a little out of balance, so charging overnight for a week should do it. In fact, just one overnight charge ought to be plenty. But unless you break out a voltmeter, and measure each cell one by one, it can be hard to know when the pack is actually balanced. So just charging overnight for a week is an easy way to be sure the pack gets balanced repeatedly to begin with.
In normal use, you can unplug and ride once the green light goes on, or even before if you need to. But let it charge overnight once in a while, if not every night if the ev is used daily. If you haven't ridden it for a week or more, then charge overnight before you ride it if you can. Just sitting there, the bms is actually draining a few cells.
Long term storage requires unplugging the bms from the pack, if possible.
I got my proper LIFEPO4 charger today. Basically I did the same thing as in the above post but used my 6S balance LiPo charger which has a LIFEPO4 mode. Also I used the 5 in 1 meter / external balancer on both 6S LIFEPO4 packs so my break in is basically finished. Now it is time to charge to 100% like the above post states should happen.
I may still use the 1.5 amp 42V charger for overnight charging and hook up the new 10 amp charger an hour before taking a trip. I will also be bringing the 10 amp charger with me for long trips so I can charge before returning home.
The 15 amp 54.6V Lion charger is on the way for 20S LTO charging as well. I could not find a proper 56V LTO charger to charge to 2.8V. Since I can charge to 95% at 15 amps I do not need an expensive LTO charger that charges at high amps. However I would like an inexpensive 56V charger under $50 if they make one. It could be for 1 or 2 amps as will only be used as an over night charger to charge from 95% - 54.6V up to 100% - 56V.
The 15 amp - 54.6V charger is being shipped as we speak but would like a link for a proper 56V - 20S - LTO charger if one exists.
Please let me know.
As far as that one good build or re build Tomjasz keeps talking about lets make it two good builds.
The Giant Roam will be the only bike with all pedal gears working and is in brand new condition and lists for around $500 just for the bike. I just need to do a good job on the battery rack on the rear and a small black wire factory basket up front and skip the ugly frame racks I usually build. Maybe something small for the controller but am thinking one 6S - LIFEPO4 pack on a factory rear rack and the second in a factory front basket. I want to be able to see all the factory stickers on the frame.
Then there is the Haro V3. I will be installing the chain drive similar to the first Currie upgrade in the factory SLA battery rack. (first 50 pages) It was pedal capable and even had pedal gears when it was first done. However the motor will be mount will be lower as looking at a short 8 mm chain. It will also be much neater. The brackets will look professional. Not like the Currie upgrade. I put the Currie rack on the Haro V3. Instead of the heavy bulky LTOs I could do saddle bags with the 13S power modules on the back and a black factory wire basket on the front for my chain and padlock.
With the motor on the back it would be better to mount the power modules up in the front though. I will leave it like this. Since Tomjasz keeps talking about how my builds are NOT professional then my big question is HOW would Tomjasz build the Vintage Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor.
I saw Tomjasz builds and admit they look factory and professional so am willing to listen to him as I respect his opinion to a point.
The point is still my point too. I could do better. It could look better / run better. That is fundamental though for any EV.
As to how I can make the Haro V3 a professional build. I am even willing to pay the bike shop to hook up disk or hydraulic brakes as it will be a 43 mph e bike.
Please let me know about that and a proper 20S - LTO - 56V charger.
Thanks.
LC. out.