new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

Just buy 1 more "powercell", not take off and throw away the attached balance board, add in full parallel to the stripped 2 you already have for an impressive 300A capable 48V 19.2Ah battery?

Does the balance board keep the packs balanced ?????????

Seller's description lists "The circuit board has balancing".
Did you not check bank voltages upon receipt? How equal?
Did you not check bank voltages after charging? How equal?

 

[latecurtis]

Seller's description lists "The circuit board has balancing".
Did you not check bank voltages upon receipt? How equal?
Did you not check bank voltages after charging? How equal?

NO.

I did check total voltage and both were > 50V I think.

I did not charge as the only 13S charger I have has that plug



I do not want to buy a third power module. The two I have are for a specific purpose.

The 3 kilowatt brushless motor and controller.

I paid over $200 for the motor and controller and plan to run the power modules on the Haro V3. It is a winter project. The two power modules will be perfect for 45 mph with the 3 kilowatt 70 amp controller.

I will only be running it a couple miles or so. Maybe to race a mini bike or go cart. I want to blow the gas junk off the road. It is why I just wanted to go with an external balancer / balancers. 7S balance wires / extensions are a lot cheaper than a third power module.

If they make a 13S balance plug which is male I could plug in my 7S along side with one of my 6S external balancers. . I would rather balance and charge them separate but always run them in parallel.

It will not be a long distance bike or cargo hauler. It is for racing only.

Right now though I will be building the 4S - 5P - LIFEPO4 pack. I want to run the 1,800W brushless motor for 35 mph. 16S LIFEPO4

I bought the LIFEPO4s first and bought 80 cells for 16S - 5P but currently am only using 60 cells for 12S.

The LIFEPO4 was > 300 - 80 cells. The LTOs > 600 for 24 cells. Two Power modules about 100.

I plan on building a second LTO box exactly like the one I just built. Then after I move I will get the flat copper bar and a few good hack saw blades and some metal drill bits. I want to get the LTOs finished. 350 amp capabale for the FX - 75 - 5 controller. I am hoping a third 10S LTO pack will do the trick for 80V - 350 amps.

The power modules are smaller and lighter than the LIFEPO4 packs AND the LTOs. It is why it is absolutely perfect for the Haro V3 which might be my best build ever. That one good build Tomajsz keeps harping on.

However the Giant Roam with the dual e bikeling motors will be my first good build. That will have pedal gears and will be getting disk brakes for the rear , a small front factory basket and rear rack for the LIFEPO4s.

I wont be mounting the batteries on the frame with the Giant Roam. .Just the controllers in the Triangle. All factory stickers will show. It has to look good.

Thinking about doing the same for the Haro V3. Mounting the controller in the triangle with low profile rack. All stickers showing. Clean , factory. I want to achieve it.

Basically Tomajasz is right that my builds must reach a standard.

DA. Approves the batteries.

Dual 13S power modules.

Vintage Haro name. V3 series.

3 kilowatt brushless motor and 70 amp controller.

> 40 mph capable.

Every ingredient needed for a great build.

Thanks

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

yea.

drunk.

Just figured out how to save money. I bought 100 feet of 16 gauged wire. Used 20 feet or less.

28 kilowatts / 1625 = 17 turns for 16 gauge wire.





If I wrap the 16 gauge wire around the LTO terminals 17 times for series connection it will = 350 amps.

Maybe less as says 50 feet. Less than 3" so like 12 turns should work right ???

I will have to try it. I got 40 nuts but need 40 more. Might do that this month. Will see.

12 to 15 turns sounds about right.

I can wrap it around and solder.

I would like to cut a piece of straw or plastic tube to put over the threaded terminals first. Then wrap the strips of copper wire around the tube or straw. Basically make my own ring terminal connecters.

Remove the tube or straw ; add a little solder.

Then secure between two nuts.

Thanks.

LC out.

 

[Blacklite]

Just figured out how to save money. I bought 100 feet of 16 gauged wire. Used 20 feet or less.

28 kilowatts / 1625 = 17 turns for 16 gauge wire.

If they were running at the same voltage.

Your ridiculous calculations using power to rate cable are just wrong. Cable has a current capability. Not power!

 

[latecurtis]

If they were running at the same voltage.

Your ridiculous calculations using power to rate cable are just wrong. Cable has a current capability. Not power!

Yea.

That is something I have been struggling with for a long time. Trying to make sense of that.

According to that chart it is only 13 amps. so

50V * 13 amps = 650W.

I have run 1,200W thru 16 gauge wire and the wire was barley warm. I have done it dozens of times.

I could go with 20 amps so

360 amps / 20 = 18.

I do not know if I will do it though. I should just wait until I can get flat copper bar and just do it right.

I am glad you posted. I do need to stop doing half ass work on everything. I already have more than a few builds that are Ghetto , Sketchy with lots left to be desired. Plenty of room for improvement.

I paid > $600 for the LTOs. They might be big and heavy but will last forever basically. I think I did a decent job on the first LTO box. I will easily be able to get to all connections and do not even have to paint the box as will be going into a water proof battery bag.

My question is what is the thickness of flat copper bar I will need for 350 amps ???????

I will need to measure and cut the pieces as well as drilling each hole. It will be a lot of work but at least will only have to do it one time if I make 350 amp copper bus bars.

If anyone has a link please post it. Not sure when I can order it but at least will know exactly what I need.

OK. I found something.



1 inch wide and 1/8" thick copper flat bar is good for up to 415 amps. Perfect for the 28 kilowatt controller.

I will need at least six of the best drill bits I can buy for drilling thru 1/8" copper. It will be a big job. Probably only want to do two or three a day depending on how much time it will take.

I will now be looking at the prices per foot of 1" by 1/8" copper bar. I also have to calculate how much I will need.

I will be building the 4S - 5P - LIFEPO4 pack first though. My Mega charger can do 8 amps at 4S.

Optimum charge voltage for 4S - LIFEPO4 is 3.65V * 4 = 14.6V.

For portable charging at 4S - LIFE I am really screwed. In fact that just does not make any sense. That is way way too high for any car battery. That is an 8 amp 12V charger. It just does not make any sense. I did not hook it to a battery though as 8 amps is too much for 22 Ah - SLA.




That is my 3 amp 12V car charger and about perfect for 4S - LIFEPO4 but not what I was looking for for portable charging. It is hooked up to the SLA. (pic below)

The two 6S packs will charge in 1/2 hour or so from 33% to 96 to 99% but the 4S pack will take forever. I will need a proper 4S - 10 amp LIFEPO4 charger for 14. 6V. More frocking money.

Not happening any time soon. I will just have to limit 16S - LIFEPO4 trips to less than 10 miles total then. I still have two bikes that can run fine on 12S - 36V.

I am very happy with the first 10S - LTO box. I already have the holes cut out for the second box.

Here is a short video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il1UXtWhXIU

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Just do, less not doing

 

[latecurtis]

Just do, less not doing

Yea.

I try to do a little every day.

I did go to the post office. I picked up two 10S - active balancers.

The van was dead so hooked up my little 120W inverter to the 22 Ah - SLA and plugged in the 1 amp trickle charger.

8 hours later I had to bring it back up to charge as was 11.1V. I hooked up the lawn mower battery to hopefully finish charging the van battery. The SLA is charging.

I have the 20 Ah - 13S battery sitting in the van at about 3,8V per cell. Coud be 3.85 ot 3.9V. Not sure as did not test it after the last 5 mile run.

My point is I have that and soon will have 54V - LIFEPO4 and soon after that 54V - LTO.

I am thinking about a 10S - 7P - Lion pack with those 18650 cells. That will power a single Bafang and allow me to run 54V - LIFEPO4 for the 26" 48V hub and 10S to the front Bafang.

I could build a 6S and a 4S pack and separately balance charge with either of my 6S LiPo chargers. That way I can charge to 4.1V LILO instead of 4.2V. That is safer for old cells.

My question it I still have the 10S - 4P - Laudation pack. I think the BMS might be bad or it could not balance the cells.

Could I unhook the BMS and hook up the active balancer and maybe bring the pack back to life ????????????

If it could work then I could add cells to each bank. ??????

I know DA don't like active balancers as they can hide a problem until something bad happens.

But what if I were to just use it like an external balancer and never use it when running or charging. Just before or after charging. Just like I do with my 5 in 1 meter which can balance at 7S or one of my 6S balancers.

https://www.amazon.com/yuanhaourty-Silicon-Battery-Balance-Compatible/dp/B07YFD4P61



I am hoping they make extensions like 6S balance. Male to female. That way I could just hook that 10S plug to each of my 10S LTO packs and only plug the active balancer in if needed. If the cells are close I wont need to.

With my LTO boxes it will be simple to measure voltage for each cell. I wont need the stick of wood with the nuts and bolts.

The fact is when I get the LIFEPO4s and the LTOs done I will only need Lion for 10S but would really like to charge 14S with my 13S charger for 3.9V per cell.

I will need to find a useful way to discharge 4S so I can charge them all together.

If I were to figure out how to run 11S it would be 3.9V * 11 = 42.9V.

Yea.

I like that idea. With 4 extra cell banks I would only need to charge at 4S every fourth time I run 11S.

After charging 14S @ 13S I balance the 10S with one of the active balancers and the 4S with one of the 6S LiPo chargers.

I would only need the active balancer for a short time. Not over night and NOT when running or charging.

That way if there is an issue like DA mentioned I will not be hiding. I will see any self discharge the next day before running.

I will need the strip of wood and nuts and bolts like I did with the 6s pack. The active balancers are not like meters. I will need to check all cell banks with a multi meter as do not think these active balancers are Bluetooth.



I will need to only use the active balancer if or when the pack really needs balancing. That way it does not become a liability like DA was saying. If a cell bank is a lot lower than the others the next day after charging it needs to be replaced and recycled.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

YEA.

I found that doing some research. (Quote on bottom)

I think I will just make it simple and order a 13S balance plug and 13S active balancer for the power modules.

Two plugs. One for each module. One 13S active balancer though.

I will use it exactly like i would an external balance meter.

I will need to do the strip of wood though with the terminals.

That way I can check all cell banks and only hook up the balancer when necessary.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Is it possible to split a 13S balance plug into a 7s and 6s JST-XH balance plugs? I want to use 2 HK celllogs to monitor the cell voltages. I plan to get the 7s and 6s balance plugs from ebay.

The 13S balance plug comes from my BMSbattery limnco 48v15ah with the faulty BMS removed so instead of checking with a multimeter everytime, I can simply use the 2 celllogs. I'm quite surprised at how well this battery retains its balance although I am very careful not to go below 3.6v.

If its possible, what should I look out for when connecting the balance plugs? And and ideas how should I balance them cheaply if they go unbalance?
Top


User avatardogman dan 100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 36090
Joined: May 17 2008 1:53pm
Location: Las Cruces New Mexico USA
Re: Splitting a 13S balance plug ?
by dogman dan » Sep 30 2012 8:16am

Yes it's possible. Starting with the negative, which may be the big negative wire on the bms depending on it's design, wire the negative to the bottom wire on the female plug, when you have the plug facing you so the plastic bumps are up. The down side is the side with the contacts showing.

Then it's cell one + next pin up and so on. The wire on the 7th cell, pin 8 on the top, is also attached to the - of the next plugs cell 8. So that wire gets attached to the + of cell 7 on the first plug, and the - of the next plug. Complete the 6s plug the same way and you now have your pack wired for monitoring as a 7s pack and a 6s pack.

Now if you add some large wires to cells 7 and 8 you could use a lipo charger to charge and balance each half one at a time. Charge half as 7s, then reconnect the charger and do the 6s half.

Another option, would be to bulk charge with your existing 13s charger. Then when it finshes you could use the balance port pins to attach a single cell charger to bring up any low cells at a less than 2 amps charge rate. An RC charger is ideal for this.

In fact, you don't have to rewire the packs balance plugs to do that. But it is real nice to have the plugs so you can just put a cellog 8 on the plug to check multiple cells at one time quick and easy.

With no bms, you will of course have to do very carefull manual monitoring of the pack to prevent overdischarge.

 

[latecurtis]

Just do, less not doing

Yea.

I am hooking the power meter up to the 26" Diamondback outlook. Dual motor . single throttle.

Like I did with the Currie. will post a video. Power meter and Cannon camera.

The Outlook has identical controllers. 17 amp.

When I run the Currie SOLO - Bafang hit 760W on the meter. . But with the brush turned on only 1.230W.

If The Outlook puts out a lot more that could prove my LIFE packs are great. Not just good.

The fact is all the negative comments about my soldering made me not want to do it any more.

When I do I will build the 4S - LIFE. Then will have 16S.

NO.

Not posting more soldering videos.

Too redundant. Sick of looking like an idiot.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

Wow!

 

[latecurtis]

Wow!

Yea.

That picture is perfect to represent people who buy lottery tickets for years and years and never win a jackpot. :lol:

I know I am not spending any money this month on e bikes. I also know I wont need to buy batteries for a very long time.

Maybe never. Same thing with motors.

Once I see my bank account improve in the + and have enough money for the move I might order stuff like balance plugs that is less than 10 bucks but right now I do not need anything.

I have everything needed to build the 4S - LIFEPO4 pack for 54V. Then I can run at 12S or 16S which will work for all my e bikes.

The LTOs and power modules and the Haro will be winter projects. I have everything needed for the Giant Roam.

All I need for the 750W gear reduction motor is an $11 motor sprocket. Maybe next month. That will go on the 26" dual suspension. The 1,000W hub will stay on the back. 2 kilowatts + and 30 mph gearing and 54V - LIFEPO4. Perfect for really steep hills.

So I have a few questions for you all that keep stating my batteries are junk and my e bike builds are tragic.

1.) Do you have a 2,000W e bike with two motors / controllers geared for 30 mph and LIFEPO4 batteries?

2.) Do you have LIFEPO4 or LTOs ? Either or ? ; Or are you running unsafe LiPo or Lion ?????

3.) Do you own 10 hub motors and four chain drives ?

4.) Do you own six or seven e bikes and a ton of batteries / extra parts ???

5.) Can you even install and run a chain drive front and rear or is your ride a factory e bike you take credit for ???

6.) Do you own an FX - 75-5 motor and 28 kilowatt SEVCON controller ???

7.) Are you Jealous of LC ???

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

So I have a few questions for you all that keep stating my batteries are junk and my e bike builds are tragic.

1.) Do you have a 2,000W e bike with two motors / controllers geared for 30 mph and LIFEPO4 batteries?
1500w rear hub run @ 15s for 1700w+ and near 40mph with $180 55.5V 28Ah mj1 battery (determined best, safest for upcoming NASA missions)
2.) Do you have LIFEPO4 or LTOs ? Either or ? ; Or are you running unsafe LiPo or Lion ?????
Using very safe, cheap, light LiCo batteries ... that require no balancing!
3.) Do you own 10 hub motors and four chain drives ?
Own variety of hub motors and many reliable* chain drive (*thousands of miles between adjustment or repair)
4.) Do you own six or seven e bikes and a ton of batteries / extra parts ???
Own many fully functional, reliable eBikes and several more stored as future projects, several good batteries and good supply of cells for additional builds
5.) Can you even install and run a chain drive front and rear or is your ride a factory e bike you take credit for ???
Chain dries are obsolete technology but found useful in mid-drive and eTrike builds using gear reduction motors and reliable #410 chains and sprockets. Dual motors seem heavy, bulky, complex, inefficient ... pointless!
Though I did seriously consider a dual rear motor eTrike, 1 gear reduction motor per rear wheel. run 48V in series for 24V 28A each (for torque and precision), "switching" to parallel for 48V 14A each (for speed)
6.) Do you own an FX - 75-5 motor and 28 kilowatt SEVCON controller ???
If I did ... I wouldn't leave it sitting on a shelf for years, gathering dust-rust?
7.) Are you Jealous of LC ???
.........

Thanks.

LC. out.

Tragically, I likely have spent a fraction of LC's expenditures for an exponentially better degree of usability and dependability.

 

[tomjasz]

I’d be jealous if you had one decent build. Sloppiest builds I’ve ever seen.

Wow!

Yea.

That picture is perfect to represent people who buy lottery tickets for years and years and never win a jackpot. :lol:

I know I am not spending any money this month on e bikes. I also know I wont need to buy batteries for a very long time.

Maybe never. Same thing with motors.

Once I see my bank account improve in the + and have enough money for the move I might order stuff like balance plugs that is less than 10 bucks but right now I do not need anything.

I have everything needed to build the 4S - LIFEPO4 pack for 54V. Then I can run at 12S or 16S which will work for all my e bikes.

The LTOs and power modules and the Haro will be winter projects. I have everything needed for the Giant Roam.

All I need for the 750W gear reduction motor is an $11 motor sprocket. Maybe next month. That will go on the 26" dual suspension. The 1,000W hub will stay on the back. 2 kilowatts + and 30 mph gearing and 54V - LIFEPO4. Perfect for really steep hills.

So I have a few questions for you all that keep stating my batteries are junk and my e bike builds are tragic.

1.) Do you have a 2,000W e bike with two motors / controllers geared for 30 mph and LIFEPO4 batteries?

2.) Do you have LIFEPO4 or LTOs ? Either or ? ; Or are you running unsafe LiPo or Lion ?????

3.) Do you own 10 hub motors and four chain drives ?

4.) Do you own six or seven e bikes and a ton of batteries / extra parts ???

5.) Can you even install and run a chain drive front and rear or is your ride a factory e bike you take credit for ???

6.) Do you own an FX - 75-5 motor and 28 kilowatt SEVCON controller ???

7.) Are you Jealous of LC ???

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I’d be jealous if you had one decent build. Sloppiest builds I’ve ever seen.

Well the Giant Roam and the Haro V3 are not finished. The Haro is not even started yet.

I did build a triangle rack for the Giant Roam but it fell apart moving the bike around. So it is a complete rebuild. The 26" e bikelikg motor is on the rear and 700c e bikeling up front. It has 21 pedal gears.

The rear motor will be used up hills with the front motor and pedal assist. I have to find a way to mount the LIFEPO4s and both controllers and wiring.

The Haro needs some parts but is a decent frame. I have the 3 kilowatt motor and 60 amp controller I even have 8mm chain. All is required is front forks , handlebars , brakes and the wheel sprocket.

I still have a 700c Giant Cypress Hybrid as well. It also has 21 pedal gears and good brakes. I could order stickers. The kid I bought it from back in NY about 5 years ago removed the stickers. He said he did not like Giant bikes but was given to him as a gift. He did not like the football team I guess. :lol:

Perhaps You could help me out with those builds so they meet your strict standards. I would like to do some really good builds.

Instead of keep saying all my builds are crap you could teach me how to do the next two or three builds better.

What do you say ???????

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[nicobie]

What do you say ???????

Quit begging for help, you're old enough to care for yourself.

 

[latecurtis]

Quit begging for help, you're old enough to care for yourself.

I am not begging for anything !!!!!

My point is why bother reading and posting here if you never have anything positive to say. This post is about sharing ideas to build e bikes. Not put people down and always criticize.

Please get a clue !!!



Also I can improve all builds to some extent.

But am looking at different builds for special purposes.

For example , if I were to go on a road trip someday out of state like back to NY where there are big hills sometimes 1/4 mile or more and travel > 50 miles which bike would be most suitable for the task.

That would be the 26" dual suspension after I install the gear reduction chain drive on the front and run the LTOs. With a 15 amp charger I can recharge in less than an hour to travel 20 miles. Also with > 2 kilowatts total output and 30 mph gearing it will go up just about any hill.

The Currie rides great and just need to get > 1,000W to the rear chain for hills. The front Bafang is pulling > 700W on its own but need to change the wiring and controller to bring the rear chain some life. It should be doing 2/3 the work load and the Bafang 1/3.

The 20" bikes are just fun bikes. They have baskets so can do some cargo. The hub will do 24 mph @ 54V and the 1,800W brushless motor should do 35 mph with LIFE or LTO.

For three new GOOD builds I have most everything I need. The Haro has the 3 kilowatt motor and controller and the Giant Roam has both e bikeling motors installed.

For the 700c Giant Cypress hybrid (Easy Street) I am thinking about lacing the two Bafang motors I am not using to 700C rims. Just do not know how or if pedal gears will be possible. If I can figure that out it could be a great build as there are 21 pedal gears and brand new brakes. It just needs stickers and maybe a professional triangle bag.

I wanted to do a belt drive with a small RC motor with that bike but is beyond my current skill level. However I did not completely give up on the idea. A belt drive in the rear with all pedal gears and a Bafang up front on a 700C rim could be a perfect build.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Also I can improve all builds to some extent.

The simpler the better.
:thumb:

 

[DrkAngel]

Instead of keep saying all my builds are crap you could teach me how to do the next two or three builds better.

What do you say ???????

.
.
.
.....................................

Most would agree, with the patience of a saint, I have tried to help and guide you for years!
Typically, it takes at least half a dozen repetitions, with written and video support before you even consider listening.
Most frustrating is your resistance to even testing or trying recommendations.

Examples:
Your stubborn years long dedication to heavy, inefficient = costly, SLA batteries;
Your years of insistence of using bullet connectors, continuously pleaded and warned against, but you went and stuck to for years, even after several dangerous mis-connections and battery destruction(s). You even cut off safe reliable XT60 connectors, until, for some unfathomable reason ... you finally converted to the recommended directionalized, safe, reliable XT60s.
And your years of complaints about your soldering problems coupled with your years of refusal to even try our recommendation and insistence that you needed to use a "heavy" tip for the thicker wires etc. that you were trying to solder.
Against every recommendation and instruction video you still insist on dripping cold solder balls onto cold cells expecting to be able to, assbackwards, fudge together proper solder joints.

I must label you as stubbornly ignorant ... in that you do not know certain things, which is OK, but you can not believe or want to know things! ... until we are finally able to beat them into your head.

Amateurish builds:
Your preference for twisted wires and electrical tape = an affront and horror to all
Lumber is, quite honestly, more a 17th century building choice
Cutting chains off, then, sometimes, replacing!

Insane builds:
Unending repetition of unsecure, unreliable chain motor mountings, resulting in continual problems. Repeating the same thing the same way and expecting a better result is a definition of insanity.
Irrational aversion to front brakes?

I know, I know, you are looking for help, "constructive criticism", but when you belligerently refuse to take, or even listen to this help, constructive criticism will naturally turn to bald, naked, often cruel, straight criticism!

Oh, If stubbornly ignorant sounds too harsh ... belligerently oblivious is a fair alternative.

 

[markz]

DrkAngel put it lightly, others probably wouldn't.

 

[latecurtis]

Amateurish builds:
Your preference for twisted wires and electrical tape = an affront and horror to all
Lumber is, quite honestly, more a 17th century building choice

Yea.

The thing is I always liked working with wood. Also electrical tape does work. I can try and do it different with the three new builds pending.

For right now though I am not concerned in how it looks. I care about performance. The 26" Diamondback Outlook runs great and climbs moderate hills flawlessly.

The 12S - LIFEPO4 pack will hook to the power meter. Since I already soldered them and am not throwing them out to buy new and do it over I want to see what they are capable of.

The only thing that really matters right now is discharge rate. How many amps I can get to the controllers / motors from the battery.


I am about to do a video with the dual Bafang motors. Both 17 amp controllers to the 12S LIFE.

After that I will be re wiring the Currie as the rear chain which is installed right regardless of what people think or expect.

That chain drive needs > 1,000W and at the same time > 500W to the front Bafang when climbing hills so > 1,500W total.

NOT < 500W to the rear chain and > 700W to the Bafang. 1,230W total was NOT what I was looking for.

After that I can build my 4S - 5P - LIFEPO4 pack and am looking for > 1,500W to the 1,800W brushless motor and > 1,000W to the 1,000W 26" hub motor on the rear of the 26" dual suspension.

I can do wiring upgrades first to achieve that if needed and could use shrink wrap instead of electrical tape. I have 10 and 12 gauge wire. But for now I am starting with the 26" Diamondback Outlook with dual Bafangs.

I will post the video when I get back. It is dark out as I was extremally depressed and slept all day but the camera should display speed IF/WHEN the GPS speedometer works and power , current and voltage.

It has been about a week since running the LIFE packs and just checked voltage awhile the camera battery charges and the lowest cell is 92% and the highest is 99% so I was right about breaking them in. The one pack is all like 98 to 99%

When any battery is brand new , after running them a few cycles < 1/2 full discharge the chemistry inside the battery changes slightly. You can gain a little capacity and the cells will balance better naturally without balance charging or external balancing. I have noticed that with every battery type I have ever charged and ran.

All I want to know tonight is if the data reflects normal operation and if < 1,500W I would like to know why. I already measured 767 watts I think it was with a single Bafang but was with a 18 amp Greentime controller. This time am running dual 17 amp controllers with a single thumb throttle.

Is it the battery or controllers. I am looking for any weak links in all three builds so I can upgrade whatever is necessary. I know the dual Bafangs performs well but still want to see all the data.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Interesting - "The chemistry inside the battery changes slightly."

When any battery is brand new , after running them a few cycles < 1/2 full discharge the chemistry inside the battery changes slightly. You can gain a little capacity and the cells will balance better naturally without balance charging or external balancing. I have noticed that with every battery type I have ever charged and ran.

 

[99t4]

My point is why bother reading and posting here if you never have anything positive to say. This post is about sharing ideas to build e bikes. Not put people down and always criticize.

Please get a clue !!!

MANY have offered kindly help and advice to you over the years. At some point, you have to ask yourself: "Why did they all stop?"




:?




Why?

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTEGTf-xv6I

What the frock is wrong with that build. We all know that Bafang motors are geared for 18 to 20 mph.

Anybody who knows anything about e bikes would know that.

A single Bafang would struggle to go up a hill with a 230 pound person and cargo.

The hills are not really steep but are still hills.

If I were to order a waterproof triangle bag for both 17 amp controllers and wiring it would be a good upgrade. However for even weight distribution I want to keep the batteries where they are. I could modify or rebuild the battery rack to accommodate a small triangle bag however.

The guy at the bike shop said the vice grips on the front wheels was sketchy. The axel on the Bafang motors is very short but could grind down torque arms to fit and get rid of the vice grips. I just did not feel like running the grinder inside my apartment with all the sparks and was too lazy to run a 50 foot extension cord outside.

Also

Even with torque arms I really do not want the axle nuts to loosen. My question is how can I accomplish that and still have it look good ?

I removed the milk crate basket from the front. I had bread and light groceries in it but the main purpose was for the GPS speedo , cannon camera and power meter for the video.

I could install a rear rack and factory cargo basket on the front or the back. Like I said I can always upgrade any e bike as far as looks go. Right now though I am concerned about how it runs.

In my opinion that bike runs as good as it can. Right now it runs better than the Currie or 26" dual suspension. Therefore the Currie will need to get hauled upstairs tomorrow and 12 gauge wiring and the 40 amp brush controller with the speed control knob.

The motors will share the same battery - 12S - LIFEPO4 but will NOT share the same throttle any longer and can shut off the Bafang when going up hill if it will pull more amps running the 1,000W - 36V brush SOLO. Or if it will pull more amps running both together.

Once I post that video I was hoping DA. could explain the data. I just like to know why. Just like I am wondering why the dual Bafang motors only pulled about 1,220W. In the video with the Currie running the Bafang SOLO it pulled 764W but only 1,230W running both motors.

If in fact is just a matter of voltage SAG that does not mean that my 12S LIFEPO4s are junk. Once I build the 4S - 5P LIFEPO4 pack it should pull 1,600W then which could still get me up to 35 mph with the 1,800W brushless motor and 30 mph with the 26" - 1,000W hub motor. I am NOT running the LIFEPO4s or the LTOs for the Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. I am running the 13S power modules.

Therefore the LIFEPO4s job is to do exactly what it did tonight at 12S which is > 1,200W and when I run 16S > 1,600W.

This post is not a competition. It is a place to post videos and share with other ES members. Suggestions can be made but putting someone down due to the way the build looks or someone's building methods is like bullying someone in school who is mentally challenged , fat or ugly.

I am not stupid. I might be set in my ways but have been in state prison and lived in dozens of cities and states. I am street smart as well as book smart ( some college).

My goal is to get my e bikes running as good as possible FIRST. Then go back and work on cosmetics like waterproofing anything possible and hiding wires whether they are electrical taped or shrink wrapped ; Hiding the wires as much as possible and keeping moisture out.

Also adding stickers like new original Currie stickers and new stickers when I build the Giant Cypress hybrid. The thing is I don't just build show bikes. I build GO bikes and will be building SHOW bikes. I will not be using and milk crates or wood on the Giant Roam , Haro V3 or the Giant Cypress Hybrid. But for the 20" Turbo and the 1,800W brushless motor 20" bike I only care how it runs.

The Currie and 26: dual suspension are Cargo bikes so probably wont order Currie stickers. Maybe , maybe not but looks is not on the top of my priority list. The Diamondback outlook though is a vintage 90s bike so will be ordering the triangle bag and waterproofing as is also my daily commuter. I plan on riding it more than my other bikes.

With all that said I hope you all keep posting.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I like the seat
:thumb:
Its huge!






You need more wires
:wink:
And some mud guards.

You'd be a sight to see on the roads Curtis.

Oh now you added more, since you are using geared up motors there is no twisting back and forth of the axle when you use e-abs low/high, so just take some 1/4" x 1.5" steel plate from Home Depot and make some slots, then hose clamps.

Even with torque arms I really do not want the axle nuts to loosen. My question is how can I accomplish that and still have it look good ? Locking washers ???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTEGTf-xv6I

I may require an illustration on how that is done.

I like to add another hose clamp closer to the axle.







Thats why you go with a one bigger motor. Less complexity the better :thumb:
I don't know about "performance" with wimpy Bafang motors.
Cells should be within 0.10V of each other, so I dont understand your 49-57%, but thats probably right off your cell checker right, thats why you spit those numbers out?
Never heard of "breaking in a battery"

Yeah it sounds good, just work on the looks next. You look like a hobo, roaming the streets on a custom made contraption. Nothing wrong with that, you obviously have no warrants, so jaywalking galore for you. Get rid of that huge hobo milk crate hanging off the handlebars and your almost there
:thumb:

If you have the right combination of wiring on your sensored controllers then whats there to question?

A single Bafang would be struggling up the same hills in the video probably 5 to 10 mph.

I got a lot of time after I move and when there is snow , cold and winter to work on cosmetics. Right now though for me it is all about performance.

I just checked all cells and no really low cells. Looking good. 49 to 57% all within 10%. Seems to have gained some capacity as was like 35 or 40% last Wall Mart trip and did not do the parking lot video last time so they are getting broke in now.

 

[latecurtis]

Oh now you added more, since you are using geared up motors there is no twisting back and forth of the axle when you use e-abs low/high, so just take some 1/4" x 1.5" steel plate from Home Depot and make some slots, then hose clamps.

I may require an illustration on how that is done.

I am hoping ES members will watch the video though. I want to know if they think it is running good. It seems to have lots of acceleration from 0 to 18 mph on the flat and much better up hills than a single Bafang. A single Bafang would be struggling up the same hills in the video probably 5 to 10 mph.

I got a lot of time after I move and when there is snow , cold and winter to work on cosmetics. Right now though for me it is all about performance.

I just checked all cells and no really low cells. Looking good. 49 to 57% all within 10%. Seems to have gained some capacity as was like 35 or 40% last Wall Mart trip and did not do the parking lot video last time so they are getting broke in now.

Thanks.

LC. out.