New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[Daught]

I still have motor troubles. When I first turn on the bike it runs fine from eco to turbo. After I ride it a bit, if I stop the motor does not assist anymore.If I leave it for a few minutes it assists again but if I stop it does not assist again. Restarting it does not make a difference it needs a few minutes break. I don't have a throttle to test direct input, but using walk assist I can feel the motor is trying to start because it has a slight hum. Not sure where to start testing.

Anyone have a schematic for the motor wiring? I noticed there were 3 thick gauge wires and five thin gauge wires going to it.

 

[casainho]

Fast forward a little while and my samsung 30q batteries arrived and I managed to create a nice big 14s7p pack which should give me nearly 1kWh!

You can use the 3600mah cells and you would get instead 1.25kWh for the same 14S7P.

I use this ones on my ebikes: https://www.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size/lg-inr18650m36-3600mah-10a.html

 

[SchwinnBoy63]

I recently installed the TSDZ2 52V motor with 850C on a BMC Alpenchallenge AC1 Alfine 8 belt drive bike. It is a cool setup but i have an issue with the 850C that i cant figure out. I go into the advanced setting to set the speed limit to 45 km/h instead of 25 km/h but the motor continues to stop after reaching 25 km/h.

Has anyone had this issue or knows how to correctly set the limit to 45 km/h with the 850C display ?

A solution is for sure to install our OpenSource firmware on the TSDZ2 + on the 850C display. If you need help on to install on the 850C, as it is currently mostly in development, please tell me and I can guide you.

I'm having the same problem and also cutting off with error message. 48V 750 watt Landcrossers 10Ah battery, hand throttle, won't go over 10 MPH average. Went 23 downhill today and my chain flew off.Screenshot_20190608-005035_compress79.jpg

I think the cutting off is a speed sensor to spoke magnet adjustment. Some help going from 10 MPH to 20+ would be appreciated. @eco cycles @casainho @anybody

 

[SchwinnBoy63]

I still have motor troubles. When I first turn on the bike it runs fine from eco to turbo. After I ride it a bit, if I stop the motor does not assist anymore.If I leave it for a few minutes it assists again but if I stop it does not assist again. Restarting it does not make a difference it needs a few minutes break. I don't have a throttle to test direct input, but using walk assist I can feel the motor is trying to start because it has a slight hum. Not sure where to start testing.

Anyone have a schematic for the motor wiring? I noticed there were 3 thick gauge wires and five thin gauge wires going to it.

try this?

 

[manoz]

Hello all I am wondering if anyone can help? I bought this motor a couple of weeks ago from AliExpress. Finally got around to try and install it on my Cannondale Quick 2018 and the motor won't go inside the bottom bracket. It gets stuck a quarter way through and when I pulled it out again the threads inside the bottom bracket casing had created marks on the spindle of the motor, I was under the impression it would fit? The BB is listed as FSA BSA Cartridge. Anyone know what I am doing wrong? Any help greatly appreciated. regards

 

[mctubster]

Hello all I am wondering if anyone can help? I bought this motor a couple of weeks ago from AliExpress. Finally got around to try and install it on my Cannondale Quick 2018 and the motor won't go inside the bottom bracket. It gets stuck a quarter way through and when I pulled it out again the threads inside the bottom bracket casing had created marks on the spindle of the motor, I was under the impression it would fit? The BB is listed as FSA BSA Cartridge. Anyone know what I am doing wrong? Any help greatly appreciated. regards

Hi, inside the bottom bracket casing there may be old bits of paint or a small amount of weld or even a small amount of seat tube or downtube penetrating the bottom bracket which is enough to misalign the motor when exiting. If you have a metal file you can flatten any points inside the bottom bracket? - Of course be careful of the threads in case you want to revert back to a normal bottom bracket!!

 

[manoz]

Hi thanks for the response I had already cleaned it with degreaser and wiped it out but I can't see anything intruding into the BB area. I'm a bicycle courier and only have one bike so don't want to risk destroying the threads. Only got tonight to try and put the motor in otherwise I revert back to normal setup and save up for another bike. Grrr

 

[James Broadhurst]

I’ve used a grinding stone attached to my drill and gently ground away whatever is blocking you getting the shaft through. Use a stone that is the biggest diameter you can find.

Some BB’s can be quite severely distorted and still work perfectly.

 

[manoz]

I’ve used a grinding stone attached to my drill and gently ground away whatever is blocking you getting the shaft through. Use a stone that is the biggest diameter you can find.

Some BB’s can be quite severely distorted and still work perfectly.

Could the BB be distorted because I've put the bike through a lot of punishment? It is a rigid bike but I have been jumping off curbs and small steps, also riding over deep cobbles and bad canal paths. The actual bottom bracket cartridge has slightly misaligned bearings when I took it out.

 

[feketehegyi]

fyi, my diy bluetooth module case v2.0
[youtube]JfjpHtdSa6c[/youtube]

 

[Aquakitty]

Hey wondering if someone can clue me in on programming the controller on this. I want to temporarily go from 48v to 36v due to battery issue.

Do I absolutely need the speed sensor extension? I have read the instructions located here: https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch and it says something about the wires not being there, but why would they be there in the extension cable if it's for the speed sensor?

Anyways, is there any way I can program this without this extension cable? I have the ST-Link kit, and 3 speed sensors.

Also I should mention I don't want to install firmware and I don't have an LCD3; I just want to change the voltage.

 

[feketehegyi]

Anyways, is there any way I can program this without this extension cable? I have the ST-Link kit, and 3 speed sensors.

Yes, there's. I've built here probably the cheapest possible connector:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GN48tQqVr8

 

[Djoene]

hmm ,having a strange bug . i updated to 0.19.0 beta8 and if i want to change the oddofields(pressing the middle button) the speedometer ramps up and go's back down.. , (came from 0.17 high cadance version) .
idem at 0.18.2 latest stable , do i need to do a hard reset or somthing?

 

[navasjm]

Hi everyone.

I just decide to get The TSDZ2; this is gonna be my first electric bike.

I´m a road cyclist and also climb some very steep hills on my MTB (many times +20%) So I wanna buy it for my girlfriend so she can join me in my rides and since this is torque sensing and have this "close real bicycle feel" I thinks this is the one (at least to begin with)

What I been trying to figure out is what motor I should buy (36V or 48V) I read in this thread that if my cadence is above 90 I should get the 36V but if it´s bellow 90 I should get the 48V, I really don´t know why is that (In any case I´ll flash the 52V firmware) And yes My girlfriend and I may pedal above 90 but I guess there are gonna be times that just don´t. So I´m not sure.

Another thing is the battery, at first I just want the best range I can get, so I think my best bet would be the 52V 17.0 Ah from EM3ev https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-52v-14s5p-jumbo-shark-ebike-battery/?currency=USD

I appreciate your help or any additional tip.

 

[casainho]

Hi everyone.

I just decide to get The TSDZ2; this is gonna be my first electric bike.

I´m a road cyclist and also climb some very steep hills on my MTB (many times +20%) So I wanna buy it for my girlfriend so she can join me in my rides and since this is torque sensing and have this "close real bicycle feel" I thinks this is the one (at least to begin with)

What I been trying to figure out is what motor I should buy (36V or 48V) I read in this thread that if my cadence is above 90 I should get the 36V but if it´s bellow 90 I should get the 48V, I really don´t know why is that (In any case I´ll flash the 52V firmware) And yes My girlfriend and I may pedal above 90 but I guess there are gonna be times that just don´t. So I´m not sure.

Another thing is the battery, at first I just want the best range I can get, so I think my best bet would be the 52V 17.0 Ah from EM3ev https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-52v-14s5p-jumbo-shark-ebike-battery/?currency=USD

I appreciate your help or any additional tip.

Hi.

I also prepared a bicycle with TSDZ2 for my girlfriend and it is great.

If you want to stay at low power mode like 250W, then maybe you can go with a 36V motor and that way you can have 10S battery cells instead of the 52V 14S cells. This means a smaller and light battery pack and that is possible if you use the 3600mAh cells. Maybe you can go with a 10S2P (only 20 cells) or 10S3P (30 cells). Also you can go with 11S or 12S if you want to have higher voltage on the 36V motor to try have higher cadence.

 

[navasjm]

If you want to stay at low power mode like 250W, then maybe you can go with a 36V motor and that way you can have 10S battery cells instead of the 52V 14S cells. This means a smaller and light battery pack and that is possible if you use the 3600mAh cells. Maybe you can go with a 10S2P (only 20 cells) or 10S3P (30 cells). Also you can go with 11S or 12S if you want to have higher voltage on the 36V motor to try have higher cadence.

Actually I think I need high power, I can mantain +45km/h in a group ride (pedal only) and as I told you before the idea is that my girlfriend can ride along my side; the range is important as well (as much as I can get) that´s why I thought in the 52V 14S battery.

So, would it be better if I buy the 48V motor and flash the 52V Open Source firmware to have better power and range?

 

[Aquakitty]

Anyways, is there any way I can program this without this extension cable? I have the ST-Link kit, and 3 speed sensors.

Yes, there's. I've built here probably the cheapest possible connector:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GN48tQqVr8

Thanks a bunch! I found those .75mm terminals I think are called pin terminals 20 AWG on Amazon. I started making that cable but then it turns out you CAN use a regular speed sensor end with the ST-Link, the ones that don't work are the Y-splitter cables (this makes a lot more sense as I was wondering why a direct cable would be missing wires).

Anyways I successfully downgraded one of my motors to 36v very easily. Thanks for the help.

 

[Aquakitty]

Hi thanks for the response I had already cleaned it with degreaser and wiped it out but I can't see anything intruding into the BB area. I'm a bicycle courier and only have one bike so don't want to risk destroying the threads. Only got tonight to try and put the motor in otherwise I revert back to normal setup and save up for another bike. Grrr

I'm assuming you figured out the issue by now, but I had the exact same problem with a Kona Dew I converted. Could not see what was causing the problem. The easy fix was use a dremel on the inside past the threads, with a circular sanding attachment. If you strip away like one thread at the end it shouldn't hurt anything anyways.

 

[casainho]

If you want to stay at low power mode like 250W, then maybe you can go with a 36V motor and that way you can have 10S battery cells instead of the 52V 14S cells. This means a smaller and light battery pack and that is possible if you use the 3600mAh cells. Maybe you can go with a 10S2P (only 20 cells) or 10S3P (30 cells). Also you can go with 11S or 12S if you want to have higher voltage on the 36V motor to try have higher cadence.

Actually I think I need high power, I can mantain +45km/h in a group ride (pedal only) and as I told you before the idea is that my girlfriend can ride along my side; the range is important as well (as much as I can get) that´s why I thought in the 52V 14S battery.

So, would it be better if I buy the 48V motor and flash the 52V Open Source firmware to have better power and range?

Then I think the best you can do is go with the 48V motor and the 52V battery AND make sure you are using the most energy dense cells on the market that are the 3600mah ones. Be aware that some battery packs have cells with 2500 or 2800 mah only!!

 

[navasjm]

Then I think the best you can do is go with the 48V motor and the 52V battery

One last question, it´s about the high cadence I may pedal, i´m sure sometimes it will be higher than 90, but not always.

I saw in this thread that the 36V motor works better than the 48V with high candence, but I´m not totally sure if this has been corrected with any of the open source firmware update and now the 48V is also fine with a cadence higher than 90.

Again, thanks for your help!

 

[casainho]

Then I think the best you can do is go with the 48V motor and the 52V battery

One last question, it´s about the high cadence I may pedal, i´m sure sometimes it will be higher than 90, but not always.

I saw in this thread that the 36V motor works better than the 48V with high candence, but I´m not totally sure if this has been corrected with any of the open source firmware update and now the 48V is also fine with a cadence higher than 90.

Again, thanks for your help!

I don't know. At least no one documented that.

 

[csbike]

hi all,
quick question, I tried to do a search, but I did not find an answer.
I have seen that people have had reliability issues with the blue nylon gear. Does the open-source firmware affect this in any way?
I have seen there are features to have more power when starting from a standstill and also better efficiency overall, so this could put more strain on the physical parts including the blue gear. Is this the case?

thanks

 

[ri53hu]

please, the battery 52v has to switch off at 58.8v but it dries up at 59.3v.R.

 

[manoz]

Hi thanks for the response I had already cleaned it with degreaser and wiped it out but I can't see anything intruding into the BB area. I'm a bicycle courier and only have one bike so don't want to risk destroying the threads. Only got tonight to try and put the motor in otherwise I revert back to normal setup and save up for another bike. Grrr

I'm assuming you figured out the issue by now, but I had the exact same problem with a Kona Dew I converted. Could not see what was causing the problem. The easy fix was use a dremel on the inside past the threads, with a circular sanding attachment. If you strip away like one thread at the end it shouldn't hurt anything anyways.

Thanks for the response, I will try the dremel tomorrow. The motor goes past the BB threads but not quite midway so wouldn't need to grind the threads

 

[Cristian]

hi all,
quick question, I tried to do a search, but I did not find an answer.
I have seen that people have had reliability issues with the blue nylon gear. Does the open-source firmware affect this in any way?
I have seen there are features to have more power when starting from a standstill and also better efficiency overall, so this could put more strain on the physical parts including the blue gear. Is this the case?

thanks

The Open Source Firmware helps with the blue gear, because it has a 5A per second ramp up, so it is better in this case than the stock firmware. The blue gear will last a lot longer.

My TSDZ2 is running very good after 1000km in 3 months with the Open Source Firmware and KT-LCD3, on v0.19.0-beta2. The bike is a CTM Tranz 2.0 with swapped out SR Suntour suspension fork for a rigid one and Schwalbe Energizer Plus 28" x 2.0 tires, about 20kg total weight.

When i stop pedalling, the motor still spins for a 1-2 seconds. Is that normal? Is it related to the beta 2? Maybe it is something that was fixed in beta8 or should i downgrade to v0.18.2?

On the other hand, the battery life is incredible if you use it on level 1 and ride with less than 100W consumed power on flat. I got 260km range ridding like this from a 48V 17.5Ah battery (about 840Wh), with a few hills where i used assist 5 or 9. So on long trips it's great. But in the city, where i live drivers are very aggressive and you have to go fast to ride along and not have problems. The power output is almost always above 400 - 500W ridding like this and i see the temp rising quickly to 75 - 85°C, when the power is reduced to allow the unit to cool. Has anyone tried something that works to get the unit to run cooler?