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TSDZ2 EBike wireless standard (like Specialized Turbo Levo) - OpenSource

gfmoore said:
I'm just a bit confused about your system. I know you can configure using a smartphone and that you control the assist levels using the 850C controller and that you have an interface to Garmin. However, is it possible to use the smartphone for live data whilst riding and therefore not have to use Garmin etc or in my case a Karoo?
Yes, you can use only the mobile app: https://opensourceebike.github.io/android_app_operation.html

Seems Karoo 2 does not support ANT LEV Ebike, although supports other ANT+ devices. Maybe someone could try implement on the firmware, that ANT+ bicycle power and cadence profiles:

 
Last TSDZ2 wireless controller I built, 2 units, they had some issues and were not working. I tested them before fill the enclosure with silicone but still in the end, both had issues. I was very frustrated because I could not repair the 2 units, because all the board and wires were full of silicone :-(

So, I decided to design both TSDZ2 wireless controller and wireless remote, to use 4 M2x6 zcrews to tighten the cover. Silicone should be used but only is small quantity only to seal the lid cover edges, so the boards can at anytime be repaired if needed. As for the wireless remote, the lid is on the back side meaning that to replace the battery, it is now easy / possible -- 3D printed enclosure for the wireless remote:

 
This is the wildest and coolest Project you've done so far, Casainho! :bigthumb: :es: :flame:

Can we have diagrams for connecting throttle pins as well for wireless remote?
Sorry if I missed them on the "HowTo" pages

Also, as an amateur on soldering and welding, I kinda understand the schematics but I would feel more confident to see more pictures at the wire soldering phase... you convinced me I want to build this, it just seems a bit overwhelming for "the casuals"

I'll give it a try anyway, and come back here with questions as I get stuck :D
For my ease of work, I'll go for the brick buck converter first, seems less challenging than those tiny mosfets :D
 
Guys when you are building these devices I hope you are working on anti static mats and are wearing an earthed bracelet, these little devices normally are handled by set up machines and not humans full of static electricity ?
 
LevelsAndMaps said:
This is the wildest and coolest Project you've done so far, Casainho! :bigthumb: :es: :flame:

Can we have diagrams for connecting throttle pins as well for wireless remote?
Sorry if I missed them on the "HowTo" pages

Also, as an amateur on soldering and welding, I kinda understand the schematics but I would feel more confident to see more pictures at the wire soldering phase... you convinced me I want to build this, it just seems a bit overwhelming for "the casuals"

I'll give it a try anyway, and come back here with questions as I get stuck :D
For my ease of work, I'll go for the brick buck converter first, seems less challenging than those tiny mosfets :D
Sorry I do not have any diagram for the throttle. But it is standard ebike / electric motorcycle / electric scooter: 3 wires: GND, 5V and throttle analog signal between 0 and 5 volts.
 
Waynemarlow said:
Guys when you are building these devices I hope you are working on anti static mats and are wearing an earthed bracelet, these little devices normally are handled by set up machines and not humans full of static electricity ?
I am doing as if is an Arduino, that everyone do at home with no such earthed bracelet. The microcontroller NRF52840 is the same used in one Arduino version.
 
So, yesterday I took a lot of time to figure out what issues I was having because one TSDZ2 wireless board was not working... turns out I was very tired already and exchanged the UART TX and RX wires. I had to use the oscilloscope to discover that the constant "alive" signal sent by the motor controller was very small and near 5 volts, so, the wires were exchanged. But after, the system still not worked, the firmware correctly turned on/off the TSDZ2 motor controller power and the TSDZ2 wireless board was never sending any data to the UART RX line of the TSDZ2 motor controller. Finally I decided to remove the NRF52840 for a new one and the system finally started to work :D

So, lesson learned: if by mistake I exchange the UART TX and RX wires, possibly the NRF52840 will be damaged only on the UART RX line of the TSDZ2 motor controller and the system will never work.

And new enclosure, with four M2x6 screws, which makes more easy to open for repair if needed. The board button is still clickable, as the cover was designed to be flexible on the button area.
Now I will add just a small amount of silicone, mainly to seal the unit, cover the LED hole and the cable hole. I will also probably put a small amount on the wires, just to keep them in place and avoid they break with the strong vibrations while I ride my ebike:



 
casainho said:
Sorry I do not have any diagram for the throttle. But it is standard ebike / electric motorcycle / electric scooter: 3 wires: GND, 5V and throttle analog signal between 0 and 5 volts.

What i was trying to ask: do I have to solder the trottle in the NRF52840 from the wireless remote or does the throttle still goes in a splitter, before the wireless receiver?
 
LevelsAndMaps said:
casainho said:
Sorry I do not have any diagram for the throttle. But it is standard ebike / electric motorcycle / electric scooter: 3 wires: GND, 5V and throttle analog signal between 0 and 5 volts.

What i was trying to ask: do I have to solder the trottle in the NRF52840 from the wireless remote or does the throttle still goes in a splitter, before the wireless receiver?
The wireless controller does nothing to the throttle, so yes, it should go to in a splitter.
 
casainho said:
Last TSDZ2 wireless controller I built, 2 units, they had some issues and were not working. I tested them before fill the enclosure with silicone but still in the end, both had issues.
...

Do you plug your wireless controller on the battery when the main battery switch is OFF? There is a risk to destroy the wireless controllers if they are hot plugged...
 
agphil said:
casainho said:
Last TSDZ2 wireless controller I built, 2 units, they had some issues and were not working. I tested them before fill the enclosure with silicone but still in the end, both had issues.
...

Do you plug your wireless controller on the battery when the main battery switch is OFF? There is a risk to destroy the wireless controllers if they are hot plugged...
I do not remember how I did. Do you think there is a safer way to the first connection? Even the battery connection? Because I always see a kind of strong spark when connecting the battery.
 
casainho said:
agphil said:
casainho said:
Last TSDZ2 wireless controller I built, 2 units, they had some issues and were not working. I tested them before fill the enclosure with silicone but still in the end, both had issues.
...

Do you plug your wireless controller on the battery when the main battery switch is OFF? There is a risk to destroy the wireless controllers if they are hot plugged...
I do not remember how I did. Do you think there is a safer way to the first connection? Even the battery connection? Because I always see a kind of strong spark when connecting the battery.

The best way is to disconnect the battery first and wait few seconds to discharge the capacitors in the TSDZ2, then connect your wireless controller, and plug the battery back. The spark is normal. The problem is when you hot plug the 2 connectors between the wireless controller and the TSDZ2. If the V.battery is on the wireless controller before TSDZ2_GND (even for few millisecond it takes to plug the 2 connectors together) the Nordic dongle can get damaged. Some protections need to be added on the wireless controller. Not sure yes what is the best way to do it.
 
agphil said:
casainho said:
agphil said:
casainho said:
Last TSDZ2 wireless controller I built, 2 units, they had some issues and were not working. I tested them before fill the enclosure with silicone but still in the end, both had issues.
...

Do you plug your wireless controller on the battery when the main battery switch is OFF? There is a risk to destroy the wireless controllers if they are hot plugged...
I do not remember how I did. Do you think there is a safer way to the first connection? Even the battery connection? Because I always see a kind of strong spark when connecting the battery.

The best way is to disconnect the battery first and wait few seconds to discharge the capacitors in the TSDZ2, then connect your wireless controller, and plug the battery back. The spark is normal. The problem is when you hot plug the 2 connectors between the wireless controller and the TSDZ2. If the V.battery is on the wireless controller before TSDZ2_GND (even for few millisecond it takes to plug the 2 connectors together) the Nordic dongle can get damaged. Some protections need to be added on the wireless controller. Not sure yes what is the best way to do it.
So, I think is a good idea to write you suggestion on how to power up the system. Maybe add this text to the topic of testing the TSDZ2 wireless after the build process. Are you able to make a pull request with this aditions?
 
casainho said:
agphil said:
casainho said:
agphil said:
Do you plug your wireless controller on the battery when the main battery switch is OFF? There is a risk to destroy the wireless controllers if they are hot plugged...
I do not remember how I did. Do you think there is a safer way to the first connection? Even the battery connection? Because I always see a kind of strong spark when connecting the battery.

The best way is to disconnect the battery first and wait few seconds to discharge the capacitors in the TSDZ2, then connect your wireless controller, and plug the battery back. The spark is normal. The problem is when you hot plug the 2 connectors between the wireless controller and the TSDZ2. If the V.battery is on the wireless controller before TSDZ2_GND (even for few millisecond it takes to plug the 2 connectors together) the Nordic dongle can get damaged. Some protections need to be added on the wireless controller. Not sure yes what is the best way to do it.
So, I think is a good idea to write you suggestion on how to power up the system. Maybe add this text to the topic of testing the TSDZ2 wireless after the build process. Are you able to make a pull request with this aditions?
Thanks for the pull request!! I think the text is good. If you see anything more to improve, please send another.
 
Hi, not sure if this has already been answered, but I didn't find it.

Can anyone with the app connect with the wireless receiver of any bike or is there some sort of security in place? I'm worried about the small chance that a user who recognizes the setup might activate or mess with my bike while I'm not around or even worse, riding it...

Thanks
 
KatondaEU said:
Hi, not sure if this has already been answered, but I didn't find it.

Can anyone with the app connect with the wireless receiver of any bike or is there some sort of security in place? I'm worried about the small chance that a user who recognizes the setup might activate or mess with my bike while I'm not around or even worse, riding it...

Thanks
There is no security implemented.
 
casainho said:
There is no security implemented.

Thanks for the very quick reply.

Is there a plan to implement something? Like a pin perhaps that defaults to 0000 but can be changed by the user? Not sure if something like this is possible with the tech or not. Does the Specialized system employ any security?

I really like this whole concept for it's minimalism, low cost and compatibility with devices (less e-waste). I immediately thought the wireless system could be used as an electronic lock so that the motor could only be turned on with the user's phone or specific remote unless a thief was carrying around their own controller and knew exactly where to plug it in Some bike alarms function with paired devices in similar ways and some even use motion sensors. Might be way out of scope for now, but what do you think of the idea?
 
KatondaEU said:
casainho said:
There is no security implemented.

Thanks for the very quick reply.

Is there a plan to implement something? Like a pin perhaps that defaults to 0000 but can be changed by the user? Not sure if something like this is possible with the tech or not. Does the Specialized system employ any security?

I really like this whole concept for it's minimalism, low cost and compatibility with devices (less e-waste). I immediately thought the wireless system could be used as an electronic lock so that the motor could only be turned on with the user's phone or specific remote unless a thief was carrying around their own controller and knew exactly where to plug it in Some bike alarms function with paired devices in similar ways and some even use motion sensors. Might be way out of scope for now, but what do you think of the idea?

ThAt would be great if someone is able to develop it.
 
rdancer said:
Which silicones did you use, though? For reseating they hole the cables come out of the motor after installing the temp sensor

It’s the 703 silicone, according to the repair manual.

I’ve updated the wiki.

1d0447e4796bc423e1844991a4a30fed.jpg
 
I simply love this project. My current LCD5 has just broken down due to water ingress and I'm looking for a new solution. The wireless controller paired with the android app would be optimal for me. But I'm afraid it would be too big of a project to handle with my limited skills. Are there any place you can buy a finished wireless controller (Ecobikes? - site down atm), or would anyone be willing to build one for me (will pay for hours ofc). Would be a major upgrade for me, instead of buying another LCD5 and running stock (I have cable and ability to flash the motor myself).
 
kalleg said:
I simply love this project. My current LCD5 has just broken down due to water ingress and I'm looking for a new solution. The wireless controller paired with the android app would be optimal for me. But I'm afraid it would be too big of a project to handle with my limited skills. Are there any place you can buy a finished wireless controller (Ecobikes? - site down atm), or would anyone be willing to build one for me (will pay for hours ofc). Would be a major upgrade for me, instead of buying another LCD5 and running stock (I have cable and ability to flash the motor myself).
The most simple solution would be to use the wireless controller with wired remote. You can even skip the installation of the 2 mosfets (and so leave the TSDZ2 motor controller always enabled as others seems to be doing that).
 
casainho said:
kalleg said:
I simply love this project. My current LCD5 has just broken down due to water ingress and I'm looking for a new solution. The wireless controller paired with the android app would be optimal for me. But I'm afraid it would be too big of a project to handle with my limited skills. Are there any place you can buy a finished wireless controller (Ecobikes? - site down atm), or would anyone be willing to build one for me (will pay for hours ofc). Would be a major upgrade for me, instead of buying another LCD5 and running stock (I have cable and ability to flash the motor myself).
The most simple solution would be to use the wireless controller with wired remote. You can even skip the installation of the 2 mosfets (and so leave the TSDZ2 motor controller always enabled as others seems to be doing that).
Here the schematic for TSDZ2 wireless controller with wired remote and TSDZ2 motor controller always enabled (power on/off the battery to disabled the motor controller, if using a Smart BMS with Bluetooth on your battery, you can turn on/off the battery using the BMS app):

 
casainho said:
kalleg said:
I simply love this project. My current LCD5 has just broken down due to water ingress and I'm looking for a new solution. The wireless controller paired with the android app would be optimal for me. But I'm afraid it would be too big of a project to handle with my limited skills. Are there any place you can buy a finished wireless controller (Ecobikes? - site down atm), or would anyone be willing to build one for me (will pay for hours ofc). Would be a major upgrade for me, instead of buying another LCD5 and running stock (I have cable and ability to flash the motor myself).
The most simple solution would be to use the wireless controller with wired remote. You can even skip the installation of the 2 mosfets (and so leave the TSDZ2 motor controller always enabled as others seems to be doing that).

Would it not be even simpler just to use my android phone with the app as remote and skip the remote. I'm thinking I can more or less set and forget it. Trying to make the simplest build possible (and keep my handlebars clean)
 
kalleg said:
Would it not be even simpler just to use my android phone with the app as remote and skip the remote. I'm thinking I can more or less set and forget it. Trying to make the simplest build possible (and keep my handlebars clean)
Yes, you do not need the remote at all, using the mobile app is enough.
 
Hello, I have problems with the DFU of the wireless controller. The flashing of the bootloader with the STLINK V2 worked and I can connect to the nRF52840 with the nRF Connect mobile app. When i start the DFU the file trancfer is displayed with the graph like in the video and ends at 100%. Then the nRF Connect mobile app disconects from the nRF52840 but nothing happens now. I can't connect to the controller with the TSDZ2 controller app and there is no Bluetooth divice with the name TSDZ2. The LED on top of the nRF52840 is all the time off, just if i press the reset button it flashes in green.
 
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