Just don't use WD-40 on plastics, especially styrenes; it can damage the surfaces, make them begin to be sticky, or decompose.
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
The daft thing this type of bearing is used on all types of machinery, conveyors, packaging etc etc and no one would put up with break downs every few days. I have even designed this type of bearing into processing machines, had them installed them straight from the packet packed with grease. But the bearings we were fitting were named brands, but your guess is as good as mine, so far my self I have been lucky, what I thought was the sprag clutch turned out to be the 9 speed rear cassette slipping. So that's why I have gained a "spare" TSDZ2B main gear assembly, the ones for the TSDZ2 were going cheap. If I washed a CSK30P out I would try the LM grease, used it for years on cars, bike etc.
Last edited:
I Hate Tax
1 mW
^Exactly! Its baffling to me after I researched this type of bearing. Seems to me like they should be 1000x more reliable. they are used in more 'intense' applications. Indeed it's brandless, but how could anyone stay in business producing/selling these parts with this high of a failure rate. So, I really guess it's Tongsheng's way to keep costs down and revenue up. Fill it all up with some $0.1 sewer grease and let the consumer buy new ones. but I'll stop here, no need for me to put baseless claims. I'll report back with my findings
edit:
might it also explain the progressive and erratic nature of the problem?
Here's my thinking: If enough of the sprags are sufficiently broken/damaged, it should not work at all, ever (correct me if I am wrong). But this is more of a "now it works, now it doesn't" thing. A sprag that is broken or cut should not work "sometimes".
if the thing gets clogged up with gunk from 0% to 100% over time, it's logical that you will experience more and more slipping of the cranks.
all that said, I know I'm late to this sprag clutch party and this might be fixed on the TSDZ8. but we shouldn't be replacing parts that dont need to be replaced at all. I speak for myself of course - I feel like my own ignorance about how these gears work has cost me $60. if I wanted a 100% slip-free riding experience I'd probably need a new gear every 4 months.
edit:
might it also explain the progressive and erratic nature of the problem?
Here's my thinking: If enough of the sprags are sufficiently broken/damaged, it should not work at all, ever (correct me if I am wrong). But this is more of a "now it works, now it doesn't" thing. A sprag that is broken or cut should not work "sometimes".
if the thing gets clogged up with gunk from 0% to 100% over time, it's logical that you will experience more and more slipping of the cranks.
all that said, I know I'm late to this sprag clutch party and this might be fixed on the TSDZ8. but we shouldn't be replacing parts that dont need to be replaced at all. I speak for myself of course - I feel like my own ignorance about how these gears work has cost me $60. if I wanted a 100% slip-free riding experience I'd probably need a new gear every 4 months.
Last edited:
Just imagine how the helicopter pilot feels when the rotors stop going around at a couple of thousand feet every couple of months, bad enough when the engine(s) stops mid flight and he relies on the sprag clutch to release and allow him to have the rotors freewheeling so he can auto-gyro down to the ground. Right go back one stage, logically, is it crud, water etc getting into the bearing, is it cheap grease turning to fat / lard with age, is it cheap poor grade bearing. I am old so do not do a lot of wet weather riding, my local tow paths are dusty but inside the drive casting is clean, have re-grease the gears etc but not the sprag clutch. So are we back to bearing quality and the grease it's packed with.
What's a better degreaser/cleaner? IPA doesn't seem like it'd be sufficient.
You're talking about using the regular white bicycle lithium grease?
Sounds like I should just take apart mine when I get it, clean it up, and re-grease with Mobilgrease 28 or the white lithium grease. Any opinions on which is probably better? Sounds like the Mobil 28 stays viscous and on the gears better.
I Hate Tax
1 mW
I reckon brake cleaner would be suitable. IPA for a rinse
AI tells me LM is good for bearings, but the viscosity is too high for sprag clutch application, same for mobilgrease (although to a lesser extent). it's hell-bent on recommending something thinner.
Drizzt321, to be fair to Tongsheng my 48V TSDZ2B which was a cheap new returned unit to PswPower, original owner it seems blew the controller's input side, fitted a new V1 controller and it's now running on my 29er. Anyway the unit was quite well greased up inside, now whether this grease hardens up after time is another question. As a retired engineer I am quite happy to open the drives up and service them if I hear any funny sounds. Do not know the Mobilgrease 28 but the white lithium grease should be fine, until I find out more will see how my LM grease works out, otherwise a water proof lithium grease.
I Hate Tax
1 mW
Right, you could always just clean and re-apply occasionally
Probably with a 'perfect' solution you'd only have to apply the grease once, or maybe once per some long period of time. (Assume it's longer than 4 months)
After prodding AI (so take this with a grain of salt), it comes up with DT Swiss Special Grease (Red) as a very suitable, very low-viscosity greaser. Shimano Freehub Grease and sewing machinie oil are its #2 recommendation
(edit: it brought in the sewing machine oil from earlier discussion. It's probably not good)
Attachments
Last edited:
I Hate Tax
1 mW
seems excellent!
- Vs. DT Swiss Special Grease (Red): This is a very close comparison. Both aim for low viscosity/drag. The DT Swiss is proven for its specific application and is almost "oily." The Kluber might be slightly more "grease-like" but with a very high-quality formulation. The deciding factor would be the exact "feel" or consistency of the Kluber.
- Vs. Shimano Freehub Grease: The Kluber LDS 18 Special A almost certainly has a lighter base oil and better low-temperature performance than the Shimano grease. If the Kluber is NLGI 1, it would likely be superior for the sprag.
Attachments
Kluber Isoflex LDS 18 Special A is it seems grade 2 DIN 51818
So a loose description, NLGI #2 is a thick grease with a consistency like peanut butter and you can find it practically anywhere at a low price for use in automobiles and other things, it is general purpose. On the other hand NLGI #1 is sort of the same thing but its more like mayonnaise and isn't common at all. So shall I get the peanut butter or mayonnaise out? What about salad cream then?
Anyway put in NLGI #1 in a search engine and there are lots of greases available, but perhaps 2 is right.
So a loose description, NLGI #2 is a thick grease with a consistency like peanut butter and you can find it practically anywhere at a low price for use in automobiles and other things, it is general purpose. On the other hand NLGI #1 is sort of the same thing but its more like mayonnaise and isn't common at all. So shall I get the peanut butter or mayonnaise out? What about salad cream then?
Anyway put in NLGI #1 in a search engine and there are lots of greases available, but perhaps 2 is right.
docw009
10 MW
From this page, Tongsheng TSDZ8 750W 48V teardown, disassembly, the TSDZ8 now uses a pawl type gear on the pedal axle. but they still use the TSDZ2B style sprag clutch to let the crank gear freewheel from the motor.
How do all of those do with Nylon, when some almost certainly will leak into the inside with the nylon gear? I think that's an advantage to the Mobilgrease 28, is it's nylon compatible.
Similar threads
