New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[RTIII]

42/52 next to adaptors for reference

Right, 42t and 52t rings fit on the standard TSDZ2 adaptor, but what happens to the chainline when you put it all together? I assume the 42t is still at the standard TSDZ2 51mm chainline, and the 52t is further out, at around 60mm or so. Do I see that right? If so, it sounds like both are too far out for some bicycles.

And nice looking adaptors, thanks for the pictures! I found them on-line now too. If the BCD 130 version offers the same interface as Bafang, it should accept those rings that are offset inward (Lekkie, Luna or whichever) to fix the chainline. Provided there is no other interference with the TSDZ2.

Hi MPM,

Today I did some work on this - almost finished my first adapter. In my earlier work I figured out that a ring abutted to the outside face of the stock 42T is just about the right distance between rings for good shifting, but even with a super-thin steel chainring, it pushes the inner ring into the rubber protective cover and does not work. So, short of modifying the spider (which I won't do) I figured out how to make an adapter that has ten holes, not only five; a second set offset from the first lets you mount other rings. I also think I've got it now where you can mount THREE rings.

Chainline is another affair! However, with my setup, the three will be as close as is possible, borrowing Bafang or not, because the motor itself is the limiting factor. That is, my chainrings will be as close to the centerline as is reasonably possible to achieve.

My own (Shimano) deraileur should work for two but I'm sure won't do three, but at least two rings will work fine regarding chainline. A third might well not be able to reach the lower rear gears.

BTW, I'm VERY interested in the adapters you and Eye are talking about; LINKS PLEASE! ... I did look! Photos of my new adapter soon - time to eat and go to bed now!

 

[MPM]

BTW, I'm VERY interested in the adapters you and Eye are talking about; LINKS PLEASE! ...

Hi RTIII, I googled 'TSDZ2' and 'adaptor' and found those:
104 BCD: https://www.amazon.com/Chainring-Adaptor-TONGSHENG-Conversion-Electric/dp/B071NQJ3WK
130 BCD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Z6GJR4

Links to the same parts on eBay and AliExpress also showed up. Eyebyesickle might have better tips, because while I only did some quick search he actually ordered and received parts.

 

[eyebyesickle]

Only retail on the internet. Thats them all 3 places. I've ordered stuff from them before, and still do sometimes... They offer some random stuff that is needed...

Communication is not great, delivery times vary... They do own up to mistakes... But it is hard to make a mistake right when you are shipping overseas...

I advise confirming an order through picture. I also advise not dealing with them on TSDZ products. Management told me they have had lots of problems, and they actually tell me to go straight to TS, because they don't offer 48v18a!

So... They have bad information, usual service, and gouge on the small parts that only they have.

Fín.


......

Here, use the Tongshen App and message them directly.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8ZJVw_3ibzkVERzb2ZsVEJGX2M/view?usp=drivesdk

They also have german/dutch offices, for anyone non US here...

 

[RTIII]

Hi All,

I FINALLY finished - well, except for painting or plating, perhaps! - my own adapter I described to you all a day or two ago. Here, you can see it! 8)

 

[RTIII]

Hi RTIII, I googled 'TSDZ2' and 'adaptor' and found those:
104 BCD: https://www.amazon.com/Chainring-Adaptor-TONGSHENG-Conversion-Electric/dp/B071NQJ3WK
130 BCD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Z6GJR4

:lol: I never thought about mis-spelling adapter! :wink:

... Eye already provided the Ali-links, no need to duplicate. But How Embarrassing to not find these when I searched!

 

[eyebyesickle]

Hi RTIII, I googled 'TSDZ2' and 'adaptor' and found those:
104 BCD: https://www.amazon.com/Chainring-Adaptor-TONGSHENG-Conversion-Electric/dp/B071NQJ3WK
130 BCD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Z6GJR4

:lol: I never thought about mis-spelling adapter! :wink:

... Eye already provided the Ali-links, no need to duplicate. But How Embarrassing to not find these when I searched!

Yeah. I thought that looked odd! Duuuur. I think I PMed links to you, didn't post em on here.

Nice job!

I'd love to get some once you fit them!

Hey, you already might have mentioned, but I say make some for the BBSHD so I can put a 42,52... That'll be all the rage.

I'm going for it again...

That would be so cool, it would be..

...

"9 FUN"

AH HAHAHAHA

YEAH., I make MYSELVES ( ) laugh!

Seriously though..

Right now RTIII, like yesterday, the world needs you.

TSDZ2

Double chain ring "adaptor"
-stock
-104bcd
-130bcd

And then the SAME THING FOR THE BBS! With a dual ring 52 feels alright.

I only can go to my to the 2nd in or the get scraping on the wheelstay. So, then i can convert the cassette to single speed, which I have one around.. Not an 11t though...

Then, I will still need a single speed tensioner, or scraping alot, so I am waiting to get the real stats. Been a lil busy to ride, toi

 

[Waynemarlow]

As with all convertors, they won't allow enough offset to get a good chainline on the TDSZ2 and Bafung units. The standard sprocket has an inset of about 8mm which then will align with about the 3rd gear in from the outside, its enough but only just to really make things work on the 9 and 10 spd rear gear sets.

 

[eyebyesickle]

As with all convertors, they won't allow enough offset to get a good chainline on the TDSZ2 and Bafung units. The standard sprocket has an inset of about 8mm which then will align with about the 3rd gear in from the outside, its enough but only just to really make things work on the 9 and 10 spd rear gear sets.

Yeah I was thinking with the 2nd (outer) ring, the 52, I could just hit the high gears in the back, because I only want that for top speed anyway... so I wont go low in the back, without going low in the front first...

It's working out alright on my current build, which is already displaced outwards additionally due to the pivot bolt engaging the motor body before the actual bottom bracket...

So I am still hoping to make it work! For the double in the BBS for sure though you would need the first one displaced in, like the custom ones made, then the next wouldn't be toooo bad

 

[eyebyesickle]

I love these things... I will never touch a BBS again unless its a BBSHD with an upgraded controller to 72v... otherwise, I MUCH prefer the tsdz2 for street legal style riding...

I didn't test it long, a little out of shape apparently (recovering from injury) but it runs at 58v fine, and IT CRANKS. Now that I have this info verified... back to the bullet list:

- throw in a temp sensor for testing
- switch to copper gear
- apply proper 'grease' (hoping to increase thermal transfer as well)
- wire in brake and headlights for xh-18

(I already have the throttle wired, but I was advised that I need to modify controller parameter for this... so I was like... let me get a vlcd5 unit, and I will just rewire the end to separate to the throttle, brakes etc... I was advised against this. I think I probably can, but don't want to blow a unit for no reason, so I am waiting. Stuff like this... see, I don't have 'standardized' knowledge per se, I usually just have to figure it out on the fly in the field... but I do have a guy who will assist on an 'electrical engineer' level. I just do stuff.!!! haaha... but we will get a 1/2/3 step out here for anyone that wants it asap)

- get the final numbers on RPM/AMP CONSUMPTION etc...

THE TORQUE SENSING IS SOOOO MUCH BETTER even than when I fine tuned the PAS programming for the BBS... I am very happy with this. I cannot wait to get my folding bike and put this on it!!! Perfect for around town!

 

[RTIII]

[...snip...] They have bad information, usual service, and gouge on the small parts that only they have.
[...snip...]
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8ZJVw_3ibzkVERzb2ZsVEJGX2M/view?usp=drivesdk

Hi eyebyesickle,

Who's the "they" in that sentence of yours, and what small parts do only "they" have?

And thanks for the link to TS - may try it later today if I have time.

 

[RTIII]

[regarding my adapter]

Nice job!

I'd love to get some once you fit them!

Hey, you already might have mentioned, but I say make some for the BBSHD so I can put a 42,52... That'll be all the rage.
[...snip...]

Seriously though..

Right now RTIII, like yesterday, the world needs you.

Thanks Eye,

The adapter takes a long time to make, in part because it's steel, which has vastly lower machining speeds than aluminum. This design COULD be done in aluminum and likely hold up OK. ...Or, I could simplify my design to avoid having to back-cut the inner face by letting a third ring be mounted to the outside, but would require thinner material than I had on hand and going only with steel, and it would take a little more luck with regard to the thickness of the chainrings chosen to ensure they're at the minimum distance from centerline but still have enough gap to properly shift (which I have figured is 7mm - if anyone has a better value to use, NOW would be a convenient time to know it! ...The ideal metal thickness (in steel) for this simplified design would be about 3mm and the piece I used was just a tiny bit over 6. Also, the part I was using as the basis to make this has a 5" nominal diameter and it can barely do the 110 BCD, but I didn't have any 5" X 1/8" flat stock on hand. Doing a 130 would require something larger, and thus much more expensive to buy / make. My local metal retailer sells 6" X 1/8" flat bar stock (and even 5" X 1/8") - in minimum lengths of 12', I think, which would be enough to make about 23 adapters, but the cost to make one is crazy unless maybe I get lucky and can find some scrap.

Another issue is, I don't have a Bafang unit to make sure the offset can work properly. The idea is that you just space it out to be as close to the factory inner ring - which is presumably as far inward as they can make it - the TSDZ2's 42T certainly is!

BTW, I looked at making a deeply custom inner ring for the TSDZ2, but firstly, pulling it off in a 42T would be crazy hard and in any event, you could gain at most about 1mm - if that - because otherwise the chain starts to foul on the motor assembly. MUCH BETTER would be moving the motor back, toward the other pedal, but THAT would require modifying the bottom bracket, which, I'm very sure, is why Tongsheng is now opting for the TSDZ3 as a weld-in; with that design, you can finally get the chainring back to where it belongs using their basic torque sensor.

... If I were them, I'd look at flipping the entire assembly, run everything backwards from how it does now to accommodate the reversed orientation, and instead of running a chainring on the left as would otherwise be, instead it transmits power to the chainring side via a thin-walled, high quality steel tube running through center - perhaps the same type material they use now, maybe even almost the same darned part! This would let them set the chainring depth to match the majority of bikes - problem permanently solved! And ALL standard chainrings could be accommodated - all you have to do is provide any kind of way to grab on to that tube, similar but different to how it's done now. This is not hard!
You could even provide for an easy shimming system to set the chainline to perfection, since now there's nothing in the way! But... Unfortunately for the e-bike world, I'm not on their design team! :lol:

All that said, it wouldn't be all that hard to make a single adapter based on my existing design that lets you run 110 and 130 - simultaneously, even...

 

[RTIII]

As with all convertors, they won't allow enough offset to get a good chainline on the TDSZ2 and Bafung units. The standard sprocket has an inset of about 8mm which then will align with about the 3rd gear in from the outside, its enough but only just to really make things work on the 9 and 10 spd rear gear sets.

The converter isn't the problem, it's the [strike]engine[/strike] motor!

When you say "standard sprocket", I take it you mean the 42T that comes with the TSDZ2. It's offset is 6mm from the inner face of the mounting tab - what a professional bike shop recently told me is properly called a spider. And, clearance of that gear's inside diagonal from the rubber gasket on the motor is all of about 2mm, accounting for a half mm of flex. Factoring in the width of the chain, there's just no more room, practically speaking, to move it inward, and no adapter can do a damned thing about it; you just have to face up to the fact you may well not get lower gears on an outer chainring. Since you'll in theory have power, I don't see that as a real problem.

And, by the way, if you look at my adapter design, you'll see how I mounted it to the outside of the spider. This was to keep the original chainline of the original 42T since it cannot be moved inward at all, again, practically speaking. (Would another 0.5mm gain you anything but headache?) By using an offset mounting, you get a fresh crack at it for a second (or even third) ring without disturbing the first.

 

[RTIII]

[...snip...]
...it runs at 58v fine, and IT CRANKS. Now that I have this info verified.

You mean you have verified that a standard TSDZ2 48V 15A unit works on 58V?

Please double confirm! If so, this is a BIG YAY!

I already have the throttle wired, but I was advised that I need to modify controller parameter for this... so I was like... let me get a vlcd5 unit, and I will just rewire the end to separate to the throttle, brakes etc... I was advised against this.

Somewhere I picked up that the VLCD5 and Xh-18 come with different wiring harnesses and so that's part of it. But my vendor at first offered me a throttle kit (with brake cut-outs) for $40, then withdrew the offer saying I CANNOT run the throttle with the unit he provided. ... I ordered a throttle anyway from Alibaba on June 15, due July 4 to July 18! ...When it comes in, I'll try it and we'll see if there are any controller issues - but my unit was always a VLCD5, not an Xh-18...

get the final numbers on RPM/AMP CONSUMPTION etc...

If doing this, you'll need a two factor table: assist level and RPM, then log the amps - this would be very useful, yes!

THE TORQUE SENSING IS SOOOO MUCH BETTER even than when I fine tuned the PAS programming for the BBS.

I don't know much of anything about the "BBS" - I take it that's the Bafang unit. I didn't think it has a PAS - Pedal Assist System - rather it has a throttle that turns your e-bike into a moped. Sure, you can "assist" the motor, but it's you assisting it, not the other way around. Is my understanding correct? And if not, please clarify...

 

[RTIII]

OK, probably my last post for the morning:

My new adapter, mounted, waiting for the 52T chainring to arrive...

 

[eyebyesickle]

Looks nice.

To be clear. I was talking about testing the 48v18a... Only model im testing... I can always turn the assist level down so I want the extra power option...

The BBS, yes the bafang, BBSHD, BBS-02, etc... Which do have assist too, just the typical speed pas, not torque pas like TSDZ2...

The speed pas is not as sophisticated as the torque pas,
So not as much of the "super strength pedal" feeling with speed pas.

The vldc5 just has plugins for brakes and throttle, no problem. Yeah the wiring harness is different, but supposedly the controller has to be programmed individually as well. I dont care to spend time or money to test that, trying it, or just really digging in, so I'm waiting.

The RPM and AMP was to verify the 10%rpm increase and the additional amp rating of the 48v18a model... I'm too lazy to give much more data than that. Sorry.

Just wanting to make sure these 48v18a are all they are said to be, and show people how to get around the mumbo jumbo of "cant do this" etc...

Plus, then you dont have to spend ridiculous amounts on their supplies, which are hard to come by, especially quick.

So yeah, not as much info out about these, like the BBS, certainly not as popular, but I love them and think it would be cool if people can be a little more informed about the cans and cannots.

I think most people here on ES don't like to hear "can not"... Oh, we'll find a way

 

[Norton]

I love these things... I will never touch a BBS again unless ....
THE TORQUE SENSING IS SOOOO MUCH BETTER even than when I fine tuned the PAS programming for the BBS... I am very happy with this. I cannot wait to get my folding bike and put this on it!!! Perfect for around town!

Torque sensing is why I'm going with the TSDZ2 instead of a BBS. I read about all the programming you can do to the Bafang PAS, but it's just not the same. Sounds like you are very experienced with what's out there !!

Here's the one question I have about the TSDZ2. How quickly is power cut to the motor after you stop pedalling?

I rode a $2700 Raliegh with a Torque sensing Shimano mid-drive and an 8 spd IGH in the back. It had an almost 1 Second delay on cutting power.
It felt like it would not be good on the single track trails. I'd probably learn to deal with it, though...

 

[ScooterMan101]

@ Norton , RTIII , and Eyebysickle,

Looks like there is at least threads on this little TSDZ2 Motor, and I have now had a chance to look through much of the last week or so of the three.

Norton, ... on the thread that ask's about running the TSDZ2 on 58 volts, ( I am guessing they are saying a 14s pack )
there are people who say it can not, however now Eyebysickle , it looks like has a different controller for it and that controller he says can run on a 14s pack.
I would get/buy/build a 14s pack over a 13s pack , so what I say in that thread is based on owners with the original/stock controller. I would wait and see what happens with the 18 amp controller , and get a buy a 14s battery. It is most always better to buy a larger watt hour pack than what is needed, you will want to start riding longer rides, there will be days riding into a strong head wind, etc.

RTIII, .... PAS is Ok but Just, more like not very good with not enough levels and lag times , Torque Sensing is perhaps just a little better, with the same problems . A Throttle ... is Best.
First of all , when someone is Young with Strong Legs , and has NO knee injuries, or Knee Inflammation/Arthritis , and they never, yea , never ride too long one day then have to or want to ride the next day they can get by with PAS or Torque Sensing and no Throttle.
However it is just a matter of time before every bike rider at some point of their life experiences one of the above situations
Then
They Want , and , Need A Throttle.
Now here is how you use a throttle on a e-bike when wanting to get exercise , what ever level of workout you want.

Use the throttle to get up to the speed you want to ride at, now change gears on the back cassette or both the cassette and front chainring if you have more than one chainring, to get at the cadence you want and/or is best for ... Both your Knees and your Cardiovascular System.
Simple , I have ridden E-Bikes with PAS , Torque Sensing , and Throttle with either PAS or Torque Sensing , and Throttle Only Designs, Throttles are the Best , By Far .

Eyebysickle , Good Work, the Improvements on that Little TSDZ2 motor is much needed for many of us to even start , to consider buying one of them.
When you get it all done perhaps a new thread on what you have achieved, since the other three threads have allot of what is not possible. Thanks from many of us , I am sure.

 

[RTIII]

Unhappy incident out there on the bike today - rather than spam, just pointing you to:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=88943&p=1299145#p1299145

where there are photos and such.

Minimum damage: a trashed rear rim.

 

[eyebyesickle]

I love these things... I will never touch a BBS again unless ....
THE TORQUE SENSING IS SOOOO MUCH BETTER even than when I fine tuned the PAS programming for the BBS... I am very happy with this. I cannot wait to get my folding bike and put this on it!!! Perfect for around town!

Torque sensing is why I'm going with the TSDZ2 instead of a BBS. I read about all the programming you can do to the Bafang PAS, but it's just not the same. Sounds like you are very experienced with what's out there !!

Here's the one question I have about the TSDZ2. How quickly is power cut to the motor after you stop pedalling?

I rode a $2700 Raliegh with a Torque sensing Shimano mid-drive and an 8 spd IGH in the back. It had an almost 1 Second delay on cutting power.
It felt like it would not be good on the single track trails. I'd probably learn to deal with it, though...

Oh, I wrote a long reply, I am so sad it got deleted by my accidental mashing of whatever button UGH! Now I am going to mash this out quick, no grammar or punctuation, sorry!

I was watching for a few things, I have used lots of systems...

torque sensing cut - was immediate as soon as I stopped applying pressure, testing at full power so I could tell. when I was REALLY pushing it, the immediate cutout would still have a maybe half sec where the engine seems to 'rev/throttle down' so to speak. if that makes sense. NIGHT AND DAY from some other systems I have used... definitely not the second cutoff, which I have felt on some systems... even if it wasn't a full second on those systems, it was clear the motor would still be applying power... any excess power being applied after you stop applying pressure on the pedal in this case, with the tsdz2, is merely the time it takes for the motor to wind down after the battery power was applied, to be clear. MOMENTUM, in my opinion, is what the barely bit I could feel was, and I worked quite a bit to discern, this was my MAIN thing to test before I really go out and HIT IT!!!! I do have this thing on a NORCO, and while I know that probably isn't as suited for a trail as downhill, I love long travel and I BLAST THROUGH TRAILS...

PS - I actually felt safe without ebrakes. I did not expect that at all. Of course I still need to wire them in, as a precaution, plus I like to use my hydraulic ebrakes anyway so I HAVE to... so being me, I could ONLY EVER recommend a unit with an electric cutoff, if nothing else as a safety precaution against a torque sensor malfunction... you need to have an ebrake always, isn't safe without... I recommend the VLDC-5, or wiring one yourself to the XH-18 (from the controller end) and I will be providing a youtube/video instruction. Not I, as in Me, but, you know... :?

torque sensing variability - these range from something like 3 steps (per power assist level) to virtually unlimited calculated 1000x/sec... the TSDZ2 ranges somewhere in the middle, but high enough that I actually couldn't tell, which passed the test. When I was REALLY playing around with it at full power, I could get it to be a little jerky, but that was when I tried hard to do so... I would start, stop, start, stop, very hard at full power, so of course, right? I mean, dude, I AM HAPPY with this little thing. I know I sell stuff here guys, but I am not selling this thing, let me make that clear. This is fully me seriously amazed and happy with torque sensors... Now I have to use them with the street legal bicycle mode with all my high power stuff. it will feel AWESOME to move a 100lb bike EASY with the pedals... That will be so cool, people will trip!!! Not when they see me doing it though... I don't ride high power ebikes around people, for the record... that's just me though.

3) Voltage Issue - I started at 58v+, and when I got back - 56.7 - so obviously the newer controllers can handle full 14s! I have been advised that the newer 48v15a models can handle this as well, FYI



THANKS TO NEIL FOR HIS $5 11.1v 4250mah BATTERIES HE SOLD ON HERE! I wired up a quick 15s (only charged to full 14s capacity) pack for testing this thing! I would've had to pay top dollar for something like that otherwise man! You're the BEST!!!! AHHHHHHHHHH

Ok, sorry for the sloppy message, I started with a nice one. I am seriously getting a new keyboard, I have done that like 10 times over the past year... bad layout... its the keyboard, I swear...

 

[RTIII]

[...snip...] Voltage Issue - I started at 58v+, and when I got back - 56.7 - so obviously the newer controllers can handle full 14s! I have been advised that the newer 48v15a models can handle this as well

If true, damn, I'm so disappointed I didn't know back when I ordered my battery!

 

[eyebyesickle]

[...snip...] Voltage Issue - I started at 58v+, and when I got back - 56.7 - so obviously the newer controllers can handle full 14s! I have been advised that the newer 48v15a models can handle this as well

If true, damn, I'm so disappointed I didn't know back when I ordered my battery!

no telling for sure which model you have coming in... better safe than sorry

 

[eyebyesickle]

Thanks ScooterMan, but really all I did was try to get to the bottom of the things, and shop around. I guess I am playing with the wires some, but the guy in Italy (futurebike) already gets the copper gears, and makes the custom housing... I just shopped around and had my people over there do what they could for me...

but... if we get the ability to program the controller, I will be happy, and then to change the wiring... that will be nice for any DIYer but the open market on these things is still gonna suck for a while probably. I don't know. Will TS shape up before factory ebikes become even more sensible? The kit still bridges a gap... it will be relevant for a while...

It took me until now to see these things offered higher power to even consider, I will admit. Now I am amazed. I am so impatient for my other batteries to arrive, and I am not ready to custom mold the battery to my Norco frame yet, so I am about to run to the store to pick up some cheap pack to throw on the seatpost rack for my battery =) Just so I can ride TO THE BEACH TOMMOROW! OH YEAH!

It took CALI EBIKE custom manufacturing all those BBS fat bike extension kits etc for BAFANG to get the picture, and BAFANG has a lot more North American Sales. I was thinking of bringing this EXACT situation to their attention. I have asked my 'girl' 8) to talk to TS, and let them know the business!!! Haha just kidding, partially. :wink: *teehee* giggle giggle! HAHAHAHA.

 

[eyebyesickle]

man I am blowing this thread up, sorry!

So I went for another ride after upgrading the battery and more 'semi-permanently' mounting it... and the xh-18 was acting a little funny.

only when I wanted to turn it off though... interesting. never during riding etc... still, it made me wonder how strong my, and others connections were, and possible voltage sag, as I only experienced this once I more securely wired the battery in, as the supplied connectors are garbage! just food for thought. Either way, I kept double checking and NO PROBLEM with the motor from 54-58v... only the display acting funny when I tried to turn it off... SO, there you have it, someone else mentioned the electronics...

I put the wheel size down (it can go to 05, but I set it to 20 for maths sake) and upped the speed limit... I am not sure exactly where the RPMS cut out... I will have to verify when I more accurately gauge this... but I was flying, it was kind of dark so I wasn't staring at the speedometer as much, but I can tell you right now... same thing as with the BBS02 when I tweaked it.... once that wind speed picks up at about 30-35.... it is pretty hard to go faster than 35... I might have made 40 for a second...and the wind was killing me. I am on a full suspension too... 7" travel Norco... so that wasn't helping at all at all! I think I could make 45 if I had something to prove just for a second, but NO THANKS hahahha to be fair, I BARELY could reach 45 pedaling full bore on the BBS02. On a BBSHD its pretty easy IMO... to hit 45... not to cruise, to be clear.

Ok, that's its for the TSDZ news.. my a legs are burnin, dang PEDELEC =)

 

[squee22]

I have a 52 front 16 back with a shinamo nexus 7 on 20 inch wheels (folding bike). Casual pedaling gets me to 29kph. Hard pedaling 30-36kph depending on road conditions. That is with a 36 volt battery and 350W motor.

This is good to know squee, I haven't bought anything yet. I did have a$940 amazon purchase coming but got spook by the battery pack and canceled that order. Now I'm reconsidering going with a Noname pack just to get my feet wet.

I have a Bike Friday. It's a 20" wheel folder. Mine is set up with a 3x10 drivetrain, road bike bars/levers, rim brakes. The water bottle mount is on the bottom of the top tube, so this would be a really low cg ebike.
I may even go with a 36V/350W system.
And I'll need a 52 front with the small wheels. How did you get the 52 on this drive? I see some vendors offer different chain rings, some don't.

I am really looking forward to a mid-drive on my lightweight, disc brake, FS Mtn bike. I'll definitely go with a 48V/500W system on that bike.

I found an old steel crank wheel at a non profit bike junker in my city. I cut off the crank and filed the holes so they fit right, and then mounted it to the motor. Cost me 5 bucks and a few hours of cutting and fileing.

 

[Norton]

...
Norton, ... on the thread that ask's about running the TSDZ2 on 58 volts, ( I am guessing they are saying a 14s pack )
there are people who say it can not, however now Eyebysickle , it looks like has a different controller for it and that controller he says can run on a 14s pack.
... I would wait and see what happens with the 18 amp controller , and get a buy a 14s battery. .

Eyebysickle , Good Work, the Improvements on that Little TSDZ2 motor is much needed for many of us to even start , to consider buying one of them.
....

I too find Eybysickle's work interesting. I'm watching and learning.

But to me:
>Why change out a perfectly functional plastic gear? If and when if fails, then I'd consider the metal gear. By then you might be able to get them more places. I doubt the Italians are making that metal gear. Is the plastic gear quieter?
>Why take apart a brand new 500W unit and change out the controller to an 18A unit? Especially if there is no documentation that the motor is fine being over-driven that much.

I know dikin with stuff for diks sake is the way a lot of ebikers do it. Take it up until the smoke is released ! Yay !!
Or you get the rotor's magnets so hot the pinion gear melts the plastic gear in the reduction side of the mid-drive.

I think I'm fine with a stock 500W unit with the spec'd 48V pack. I will run it that way until the warranty is used up.
I may even start with a small 48V pack. Maybe mount it low on my front fork braze ons. Some people buy Growler cages for the front fork and come home with lots of heavy beer on the front fork.
Touring bikes are going to front low mounted panniers. It a more stable way of carrying weight than up high on a rear rack.

Hell, I'm considering going the other way and start out with the 350W / 36V TSDZ2 and put it on my Bike Friday. But I know me,,, I'll want more power. And I want to ride the single tracks with my FS Mtn bike with MORE POWER !